4 WEST MAIN STREET
IRVINGTON, NY 10533
(914) 591-5500
CHEF/OWNER: NAVJOT AURORA
If you go down the hill, around the corner, and then over the tracks, you’ll find a pretty brick building, a vestige from Irvington’s nineteenth-century industrial past. But, chances are you’ll smell this building before you even see it—and your mouth will be watering by the time it comes into view. This is where Chutney Masala’s Chef Navjot Aurora spins his spicy web, snaring hapless commuters as they step from the train.
Aurora’s cooking manages to show perfect fidelity to his native India while simultaneously offering a didactic hand up to diners for whom the cuisine is unfamiliar. Chutney Masala’s menu is as much a lesson as a bill of fare, and on it you won’t find the Anglo-Indian standby—chicken tikka masala (a dish that’s reputed to have been invented in Glasgow). There’ll be no judgment if you ask for the Scottish innovation; Chutney Masala’s servers will simply guide you to a better and more delicious dish.
Though faithful to Mother India, Chutney Masala is not closed-minded. Its two floors are decorated by the stunning work of the nineteenth-century photographer, Raja Deen Dayal, who unflinchingly depicted the Raj, India’s troubled era as a British colony. On Aurora’s beverage list, along with the expected Kingfisher and Taj Mahal beer, you’ll find thoughtful gin and cucumber cocktails that selectively reference Britain, taking the good (and thoughtfully leaving the bad).
(SERVES 8 AS AN APPETIZER)
For the tamarind chutney:
1 (4-ounce) piece tamarind from a pliable block (available at Indian specialty stores)
¾ cup hot water
¼ cup packed jaggery (available at Indian specialty stores) or dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon coriander seed
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon garam masala powder
½ teaspoon cayenne
½ teaspoon salt
For the kebabs:
2 pounds potatoes, peeled
3 pounds spinach, chopped
1 pound green peas
1 pound paneer (available at Indian specialty stores)
1 cup roasted chana dal (available at Indian specialty stores)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil plus more for deep frying
¼ cup whole cumin seeds
⅓ cup peeled and chopped ginger
⅛ cup kasuri methi (dried fenugreek powder, available at Indian specialty stores)
½ cup garam masala (available at Indian specialty stores)
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
¼ cup chopped green chile
½ cup lemon juice
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons red chili powder
To make the chutney: In a small bowl gently mash tamarind with water until its pulp is softened. Strain the tamarind into a 2-quart saucepan, pressing firmly, then discard seeds and thick fibers. Add jaggery and cook the mixture over low heat, stirring, just until the jaggery is dissolved. Place the mixture in a bowl and reserve.
In a small skillet over moderate heat, toast the coriander and cumin seeds, stirring, until fragrant and a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Cool completely, then grind into a powder in a spice grinder. Stir ground spices, garam masala, cayenne, and salt into tamarind mixture. Reserve.
To make the kebabs: In a medium pot of boiling water, cook the peeled potatoes until soft but not mushy. When cooked, drain the potatoes and refrigerate them.
Meanwhile, in a large pot of boiling water set over high heat, blanch the spinach until wilted. While it is cooking, in a medium bowl set up an ice bath. When the spinach is wilted, remove it to the ice bath (leaving the pot of water boiling). When spinach is cool, drain it, squeezing the excess water from the spinach. Set aside.
Boil the peas until soft, remove to the ice bath, drain, and place peas in a bowl. Mash with a fork and set aside.
Grate the cooled potatoes along with the paneer in a food processor fitted with a grating disc (you can also do this on a box grater). Place the grated potatoes and paneer in a large bowl. Chop the roasted chana dal in a food processor and add to the potatoes and paneer.
In a medium pan heat 2 tablespoons oil and sauté the cumin seeds, chopped ginger, and kasuri methi until the ginger is soft. Place in a bowl with the cooked potatoes, spinach, and peas. Add garam masala, paneer, cilantro, chile, lemon juice, salt, and chili powder. Form the mixture into patties ¾ inch thick by 2 inches in diameter. Panfry the patties in vegetable oil until crisp and golden.
To serve: Plate with tamarind chutney and serve while still hot.
