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The Cat of Your Dreams
Will You Be a Match Made in Heaven or the Odd Couple?
Cats aren’t shirts that you buy at the store and then return if they don’t fit. Nor are they a pair of shoes you can give away or toss out when you’ve outgrown them. While these comparisons may seem ridiculously obvious to you, the sad fact is that too many cat owners actually do view their cats that way. As a result, countless cats end up relinquished to shelters or just abandoned because they didn’t meet their owners’ expectations of the perfect cat.
Why do you want a cat? Take the time to examine your desires honestly to help ensure a lifetime of love.
Choosing to become a cat owner is, of course, an emotional decision. It’s also choosing to take on a serious responsibility because the cat’s health and welfare will be completely dependent on you. If your impression of cat ownership involves filling up a food bowl and putting a litter box in the extra bathroom then both you and your cat will soon become very unhappy. Although a cat may seem to be a lower maintenance pet than a dog, you must be prepared to meet his emotional, medical, and physical needs.
Being a cat owner also involves a financial commitment which some people aren’t prepared for. Cats or kittens acquired for free need the same veterinary and nutritional care as the purebred you paid top dollar for: the initial vaccinations and neuter or spay surgery, then yearly vaccinations for the rest of his life. He’ll also undoubtedly need periodic medical care for unexpected ailments or injuries, and veterinary care isn’t cheap.
Over the years I’ve seen many incredibly close cat/owner relationships. I’ve also seen cats and owners who seem to just co-exist in the same house with no emotional bond. Many times, that’s the result of the owner having had the wrong expectations about cats from the start. You have an opportunity now, with this book, to create a close cat/human bond. Even if you already have a cat (maybe you’ve had him for years), you can create a closer relationship—and that’s the key, it is a relationship.
Rumors, Innuendoes, and Lies
Cats steal the breath from babies.
Cats are aloof.
You must get rid of your cat if you’re pregnant.
Litter boxes always stink.
Cats ruin the furniture.
You can’t train a cat.
If those were true, why would anybody ever want a cat? Unfortunately, people continue to pass along this inaccurate and unfair information. The result? Many people who might have become cat owners get scared off. It’s the cats who suffer as they continue to be charged with crimes of which they aren’t guilty. Let’s take a closer look at some of the common misconceptions so that you can learn fact from fiction and go ahead with plans to share your life with a cat.
Cats are aloof. We’ve all heard that! In fact, if most people had to describe cats in one word, aloof would probably be it. And, if you mention aloof, you might as well throw in independent as well. I believe these descriptions come from inappropriately trying to compare cats to dogs. We think of dogs as social creatures and cats as unsociable, solitary snobs. In truth, a cat is a sociable animal. His social structure is built upon his sense of territory and the availability of a food source. Cats can and do live happily together. In a free-roaming environment female cats will nurse and care for each other’s kittens. One reason why cats may have been inaccurately labeled as solitary is because they are often seen hunting alone. Cats hunt small prey—just enough for one cat. Some cats do however hunt cooperatively as well, so there’s always an exception to the rule.
Cats may also appear aloof to some humans because, as hunters, they take in their entire environment. Sometimes the cat may sit on your lap, enjoying your affectionate stroking, but there are other times when he’d prefer just sitting nearby, relaxed yet ready should any prey come on the scene. Cats are stimulated by even the slightest movement which might indicate potential prey.
How kittens were socialized and whether they were handled gently by humans also play a role in how large a personal space they require later. Much of how your individual cat’s personality develops, and whether he becomes friendly and sociable versus timid and unfriendly depends on you.
This book will teach you how to understand his language and communicate with him so you two can develop a strong, loving bond. If you expect him to do all of the work then you’ll end up with, yes, an aloof, independent, untrusting cat.
The bottom line: stop comparing your cat to a dog, and suddenly you’ll start noticing his uniquely wonderful traits. Cats are not small dogs and, surprisingly, that’s a hard concept for some people to accept. Cats shouldn’t be viewed as acceptable and sociable only when they act “doglike.”
Catwise Clue
The term “domesticated cat” refers to the species being distinct from their species ancestor (the African Wildcat).
Cats can’t be trained. False! Once again, you just have to stop thinking DOG and start thinking CAT. My approach to training is based on positive reinforcement, understanding what a cat needs, and what he is communicating by his behavior. If I want my cat to stop doing something, I direct her to something better and then reward her when she gets it right. This think like a cat method involves understanding why the cat is behaving a certain way so I can meet those needs in a way that’s acceptable to both of us. This training method is easier, more humane, and much more effective than continually reprimanding your cat for doing things that are instinctually natural to him (such as scratching). So throw out all of those old ideas you’ve had about how cats can’t be trained. It’s easier than you think.
Cats are dangerous if you’re pregnant and cats steal the breath from babies. I really hate these. First of all, if you’re pregnant, there are precautions you should take concerning the litter box. The box could be a serious health risk to your unborn baby, but it doesn’t mean the cat should be tossed out. To get the accurate story, refer to Toxoplasmosis in the Medical Appendix in the back of this book. As for that stupid myth about cats stealing the breath from babies, it’s not true, yet it continues to resurface again and again. The theory of many cat experts is that long ago, before SIDS (sudden infant death syndrome) was identified, cats were blamed for the unexpected death of sleeping babies.
Litter boxes always stink. Well, actually a litter box will stink IF YOU DON’T CLEAN IT! As long as you maintain an adequate cleaning schedule, no one will ever have to hold his nose to enter your home.
Cats ruin the furniture. There’s some truth to this statement but only if you neglect to provide him with a scratching post. Now I know some of you reading this are thinking, Well, my neighbor has a scratching post and the cat still ruins the furniture. My answer to that? Wrong post. Chapter 9 will teach you how to get it right the first time.
So now that we’ve cleared that up and you’re standing on the threshold of cat ownership, let’s go get the cat, right? Not quite yet. You have many decisions to make. Do you want a kitten or a cat? Male or female? Will the cat be an indoor or outdoor cat? Where should you get the cat? The shelter? Breeder? The next-door neighbor?
A Kitten or a Cat?
Kittens are cute. I mean really, really cute. Whenever I bring a kitten on television with me, just about everyone on the set has to come by for a closer look. Kittens are definitely smile magnets, but before you fall in love with that adorable little bundle of fur, take the time to understand what’ll be required of you as the owner of a kitten.
You need to kitten-proof your home if you decide on a youngster. You have to patrol for dangling electrical cords, dangerous cleansers, poisons, etc. (Even if you decide on an adult cat you’ll have to safeguard him from these things as well, but kittens seem bound and determined to get into trouble.) Basically, you have to know where your kitten is at all times to prevent him from hurting himself. Kitten-proofing a home isn’t that difficult, but for some people it’s not possible. For instance, an artist friend of mine lives in a one-bedroom apartment. She wanted the companionship of a feline but knew that getting a kitten would surely result in spilled paint. Not only would that be messy, but it would cause a serious health risk to a curious little kitty. The artist chose to adopt an adult cat who had a quiet personality. Aside from one incident when the cat accidentally walked across Sonia’s palette and left a trail of fuchsia paw prints on the carpet, they have a very compatible relationship.
A family with young children should reconsider the idea of a very young kitten and opt for an older one (at least six months old). Kittens are very fragile and can easily be injured by exuberant young children. An older cat can still be injured, but he is better able to escape from a child’s grasp.
If you or anyone in your family is unsure of his footing, a kitten zooming underfoot through the house could create a danger.
Consider how much time you have to devote to a kitten. They require more supervision and can’t be left alone as long as an adult cat.
If you adopt a kitten, it affords you the opportunity to have a greater effect on shaping his personality than you might have on an adult cat. By exposing him to a variety of novel stimuli, you stand a good chance of raising a cat who is comfortable around strangers, not afraid of unfamiliar surroundings, adapted to travel, etc.
So why would you want to miss all the fun and get a grown-up? One of the best reasons to choose an adult cat is that you know just what you’re getting. You can also get a good sense of his temperament—whether he’s active, nervous, docile, sociable, very vocal, quiet, etc. Because all kittens tend to be fuzzy little race cars, you don’t know which ones will actually stay that way and which ones will calm down. If you want to be sure of a specific ready-made temperament or personality, go for an adult cat.
Keep in mind, though, that an adult cat who is timid or nervous can be worked with. There’s so much you can do to help an adult cat blossom. You also have to take the cat’s current surroundings and history into consideration, and how the cat may change in a new environment combined with your think like a cat training approach. For example, a shelter cat may initially appear very timid or defensive in that stressful environment. Once he becomes acclimated to your home and family he’ll begin to show his true personality and feel comfortable enough to trust. A cat at the shelter may have been relinquished by his previous owner because he had behavior problems. It doesn’t mean the problem isn’t workable, but you have to be prepared to address whatever situation does arise. Very often, the problem may have been connected with the circumstances of that previous environment and won’t continue in the cat’s new surroundings. I’ll discuss shelter adoptions later in this chapter.
An adult cat doesn’t need the seemingly constant supervision that a kitten does.
If you truly have the love and desire to share your life with a cat, adopting an adult could literally save his life. Whether kittens are brought to shelters, found in alleys, or given away outside of grocery stores, they stand a better chance of being adopted than the adult cats. By taking that four-year-old tabby, you might be saving him from a life behind bars or worse, death.
Financially, an adult cat is often less expensive than a kitten. Kittens require a series of vaccinations and the cost of neutering or spaying. Adopting an adult cat from another family or from a shelter often means the cat is up-to-date on vaccinations or at least had the first in the series, and in some cases, already spayed or neutered.
He or She?
This is another area where myths and rumors seem to run wild. If you know someone who has only had male cats, they’ll be able to rattle off all of the great qualities of a male and numerous shortcomings of females. They’ll tell you how much smarter and outgoing males are. Longtime owners of females will quickly dispute that and add how territorial males are.
Here’s the truth. Once a cat is spayed or neutered, it doesn’t matter if you choose a male or a female. Hormones are what usually drive undesirable behavior such as a spraying male or a yowling female in heat. Simply by having the cat spayed or neutered, you can control that. Left intact, I don’t care whether you choose a male or female, you’ll be one unhappy cat owner. Intact males are territorial and they will spray. If allowed outdoors, they’ll roam and get into countless fights that could lead to injury or death. Intact females, when in heat call relentlessly in search of a male and will try to sneak outdoors every chance they get. Neutered and spayed cats make much better companions. They won’t spend their lives in frustration, their risk of certain types of cancers will be reduced, and you won’t spend your days pulling your hair out.
Purebred Cats
Although most cat owners choose non-pedigreed cats, you may have your heart set on a purebred.
Lovers of purebred cats will argue that there are hundreds of reasons to go that route versus mixed-breed, but I’m going to assume you’re a novice in the cat world, and focus on what I feel would be of the most importance to a new cat owner.
When considering a purebred, make certain you’re aware of any possible genetic health concerns prone to that particular breed. Do your homework before deciding on a purebred. Read breed-specific books and check cat registry Web sites. Talk to your veterinarian, breeders, and owners of the breed you’re considering. Visit cat shows in your area to get a closer look. Talk with the breeders who are there to show their cats.
In the dog world you find big dogs, bigger dogs, small dogs, even smaller dogs, hunting dogs, herding dogs, sporting dogs, guard dogs, long-haired, short-haired, floppy eared, perky eared, long-nosed, pug-nosed, vocal dogs, and quiet dogs. Such variety! In the cat world, the greatest variety exists mainly within the purebreds. Let’s take size, for example: if you want a very large cat, you’d probably be interested in the Maine Coon Cat. If an athletic cat is more to your liking, there are several breeds to choose from, for example, the Abyssinian. So, if you like specific physical traits or a certain personality type, purebreds can be more predictable. This could be an important factor in your decision-making process. Within the world of purebreds you’ll find cats with folded ears, bobbed tails, no tails, kinked fur, no fur, or colors that could only exist in nature; cats who are talkers or known for being couch potatoes.
Some breeds require special attention that you may not have the time, desire, or ability to provide. For example, several of the long-haired breeds—such as Persians and Himalayans—require daily brushing or their hair will mat. Do you have the time required to care properly for this kind of cat?
Use the Internet for researching when considering a purebred because there are many cat-related groups and lists. You can get lots of information from other owners of the type of cat in which you’re interested.
Finally, there’s money. A purebred will cost you. Some are much more expensive than others but be prepared to pay.
The Long and Short of It: Hair Length
No question about it, a beautifully groomed long-haired cat is a head-turner. Cats such as Persians have the feline world’s equivalent of Hollywood glamour. We watch them on TV as they recline on their pillows in their diamond collars, eating out of stemmed crystal glasses. That’s probably why Persians are one of the most popular breeds. We see them and fall in love, unaware of the “behind the scenes” work that goes into maintaining that glorious coat.
The coats of many long-haired cats will mat if not brushed daily. That silky coat can get into a knot faster than you can say “detangling spray.” Aside from the unsightly look of matted fur, mats can create health risks if left unattended because they can prevent air from reaching the skin. Fleas can also seek refuge under mats. As mats tighten they pull on the skin and make walking painful. The nails of the cat can get stuck in the mats as he attempts to scratch. I’ve seen neglected Persians who have ripped holes in their skins in an attempt to scratch beneath the mat. If you love the look of a silky long-haired cat, give serious thought to the maintenance.
Not all long-haired cats are prone to matting. Even if you choose a cat whose hair doesn’t mat, be aware that all long-haired breeds will still require more frequent brushing. The Maine Coon and Norwegian Forest Cat, for example, have thick, long hair that doesn’t mat. Maintenance is still required, though, to keep this coat looking lustrous.
Long-haired cats, whether they mat or not, occasionally need special assistance concerning their personal hygiene. Their long fur can now and then catch and trap pieces of feces. If a long-haired cat develops diarrhea, the cleanup is much more involved than with a short-haired cat.
Hair balls. You’ve heard of them. You’ve maybe even seen them. Although any cat, regardless of coat length, can have them, long-haired cats experience more than their share. A good grooming schedule by you, feeding hair-ballformula food or treats, and a regular dose of hair-ball-prevention gel will help. If you aren’t able to maintain the cat’s coat, you might be subjecting him to certain hair balls. For more on grooming, refer to Chapter 12.
Some breeds are more fragile than others. The Sphinx, for example—which is a practically hairless cat—requires warmer temperatures and therefore wouldn’t be a good choice for someone who prefers keeping the thermostat set low.
Hybrids and Exotic Breeds
Don’t choose a cat merely based on its exotic or unique looks. Some people spend lots of money on cats for their physical appeal without researching temperament, personality, and training needs. Bengals are a good example of this. I’ve met many people who purchased Bengals for their wild look and then became shocked when behavior problems developed because no training was done or the owners had no clue as to the activity and intelligence level of the breed.
If you’re interested in one of these cats, carefully research and learn about the breed ’s personality, care requirements, and potential health risks. Evaluate whether that breed is the right fit for your family and whether you can create the appropriate environment for the cat.
Magnificent Mixed Breeds
Some of the most loved, spoiled, cared for, doted on, cherished cats are the ones who don’t come with a pedigree. They’re the ones we find lost by the roadside, at our back door, in the neighbor’s garage, in the barn, in the local shelter, brought home by our children, or shivering in the parking lot. So many are in need of our rescue. Really, I believe many more actually rescue us.
Unless you’re already set on a specific breed, are planning to enter your cat in shows (and actually, there are several mixed-breed shows), or embarking on a breeding career (something I strongly advise against), you should consider a mixed breed.
What is a mixed breed? It refers to the product of the random matings of different or mixed breeds of cats. Sometimes you see a trace of an identifiable breed but usually, the years of random matings create cats whose histories are mysteries.
Mixed-breed cats come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. From a personality standpoint, you may not get the predictability that you might with purebreds, but in general, what you will get is a hearty, adaptable, trainable cat.
Where to Find Your New Cat
Now that you’re sure you want to share your life with a cat, let’s examine the many sources out there for acquiring your new companion—whether a kitten, an adult, a purebred, a mixed breed, long-haired, short-haired, male, or female.
As I’m sure you’re well aware, cats aren’t in short supply. You could probably open up your back door and literally find one hanging out in the yard. I live on three acres and almost every morning I spot a different cat crossing through the field.
While a great many people come across the cat of their dreams through rescue efforts, that method isn’t for everyone. The injured or starving cat you pickup from the roadside, or the one you rescue from the shelter’s death row, may or may not turn out to be the friendly, trusting, well-socialized animal you’d hoped for. I’m certainly all for anyone who gives a cat a second chance at life, but you should make sure you know what you’re getting into. I want you and your cat to spend many, many happy years together. Make sure everyone in your family is on the same page regarding the type of cat you want and the amount of time and patience you have to help that cat get beyond any negative history.
A note of caution: When you begin your search, I recommend that you not bring your children along. Your first visits to shelters, breeders, etc., need to be strictly to evaluate the facilities. I’ve seen too many owners coming home their first day out with a kitten they weren’t prepared for because the children fell in love. Oh, and by the way, children aren’t the only ones who suffer from the inability to walk out of a shelter empty-handed—we adults wrote the book on impulsivity.
Shelters—Finding Your Diamond in the Rough
Walking into a shelter is a very emotional experience for an animal lover. Walking out empty-handed is very difficult for an animal lover. Be prepared—you can’t save all the animals. It’s very tough to go from one cage to the next, staring into the eyes of the cats in need of homes. As much as you may want to take the neediest of the cats into your arms forever, be sure you know what it’ll require. Making an impulsive decision you aren’t ready for could end up being wrong for you and for the cat.
There are many shelters around the country, ranging from public animal control facilities to nonprofit private organizations. In your search, you’ll find well-run facilities and you’ll come across horrible jailhouses.
Chances are very slim that you’ll be able to come across a purebred cat at a shelter but it does happen. If you’re looking for a kitten, they go fast—everyone wants kittens, especially around Christmas. But if you’re open to the idea of an adult cat, you’ll find many ages, colors, and personalities.
Although shelters are staffed by caring people who try their hardest to house the cats in as comforting of an environment as possible, considering how stressful shelter life is, don’t expect the cats to be on their best behavior. Very often these cats are in emotional shock. Many have been abandoned by their owners, lost, homeless, injured, or maybe even abused. Suddenly they’re put in a cage away from anything even remotely familiar from life as they knew it and they’re terrified. Even though your heart’s in the right place and you plan on giving a cat the best home in the world, initially he may not act very appreciative. Some cats who’ve been relinquished to the shelter by a family due to a behavior problem may pose an extra challenge to you. Very often though, a cat adopted from the shelter eventually puts his past behind him and ends up being the love of your life. Some of the smartest, prettiest, most sociable, tolerant cats I’ve seen came from shelters. I toured nationally with the famous Friskies Cat Team and these talented cats who are seen on television and in movies were rescued from shelters. When on tour, that fact always surprised people who assumed that “performing” cats had to be specially raised from kittenhood. Not true! Just ask Flash, Harley, Squash, and Spike—four feline headliners with shelter beginnings.
Shelter staffs work with cats when they’re first brought in to help them become adoptable. Volunteers come in daily to interact with the animals, offer comfort, affection, attention, and playtime. Many shelters now take an active role in providing behavioral information to the volunteers as well so they can interact with the cats in the most productive way. At many shelters, new owners can also find behavior support resources in order to help them through the adjustment period with an adopted cat after the honeymoon period has ended.
Shelters do an amazing job even though they’re all overcrowded and underfunded.
Before you decide to go the shelter adoption route, inspect the facility, ask questions, and be completely informed regarding their policies. Some shelters even require an in-home visit first to make sure the environment will be appropriate. Don’t be offended at the questions asked of you. The staff is trying to make sure you’re matched with the best cat for you.
Cat Rescue Groups
If you’d like to provide a home for a kitty in need through a local rescue agency, keep in mind that as with shelter-adopted cats, you may be dealing with a traumatized animal. These cats need stable, secure, loving homes with owners willing to help them blossom in their own time.
Some of the cats rescued may not have had the advantage of having been socialized to humans during kittenhood. This is an important thing to consider if you absolutely want a cat who will sit in your lap and view life in a carefree way. A cat who has been rescued may need a bit more time before daring to trust. When it happens, though, it’s amazing to watch as the cat begins to lower his guard and let you in. The times I’ve experienced it will stay in my heart forever.
Breeders—The Good, the Bad, and the Bottom of the Barrel
If you truly have your heart set on a purebred, your best source will be a breeder. A good breeder isn’t so easy to find, though. As with any other business, when money is involved, ethics can get lost on the way to the bank.
A GOOD BREEDER
• is very knowledgeable about the breed
• welcomes any questions you may have
• competes in cat shows
• offers references
• welcomes inspections of his/her cattery
• lets you see the parents of the kittens
• has all registration papers
• requires the buyer to spay or neuter the cat
• has documentation of health exams and vaccinations
• doesn’t sell any kitten less than 10–12 weeks old
• prohibits declawing
• specifies in the contract that the cat must be kept indoors
• doesn’t pressure you to buy
• displays a genuine love for the breed
• screens you to make sure her/his kitten goes to a good home
• offers a refund and not just a replacement kitten
• requires the kitten be returned if you can’t keep him
Good breeders are dedicated to maintaining the integrity of their breed. They lovingly keep a very clean, healthy cattery, and are knowledgeable about cat health, nutrition, and behavior. Good breeders welcome questions and inspections of their catteries. They should also be willing to supply references.
To begin your search for a good breeder, start by attending the cat shows in your area. Even if the nearest one is a bit of a drive, it’s worth it. Good breeders show their cats. It’s a good opportunity for you to talk with several breeders. Unless they’re getting their cat ready to be judged, they should be more than happy to answer any questions you have.
Raised underfoot is a phrase you’ll hear very often when talking to breeders. That means the kittens have been handled by and socialized to humans as opposed to being locked away in cages. Beware, though, anyone can claim that their kittens were raised underfoot; it’s up to you to decide if they’re truthful. Make a list of breeders and do research on them. Talk to veterinarians, join online breed groups, check blogs and online review sites. Visit the cattery; ask questions; carefully observe and handle the kittens. Remember, a registered kitten means he comes with an official-looking piece of paper. It doesn’t guarantee that he’s a well-adjusted kitten.
If the breed has congenital defects, a reputable breeder will openly discuss that and what she/he does to reduce that risk.
Look for a breeder who asks you lots of questions. If a breeder is quick to sell you a kitten without inquiring about your home and lifestyle, that’s not the breeder with whom you should do business.
The breeder shouldn’t release kittens until they’re ten to twelve weeks old. Don’t go with a breeder who is willing to let you have a kitten earlier than that.
Buying by Photograph
Whether you’re dealing with a breeder or a private owner, don’t agree to purchase a cat you haven’t seen. Some breeders who live out of your area will agree to sell cats long-distance. They e-mail a photograph or video and the first time you actually get to meet your cat is when you pick him up at the airport. My word on this practice? DON’T.
If the breeder of the specific breed you want lives far away and you absolutely have to have this kitten, then get on a plane and go see him, evaluate the facilities, and then if all seems right, take the kitten back with you. Don’t commit to the sale until you’re there in person.
Online and Newspaper Ads
Be cautious. Just because a kitten is advertised for free and the description sounds perfect doesn’t necessarily mean things are as advertised.
Treat the owners as you would a breeder by asking questions. How was the kitten or cat raised? In the case of older cats, ask why they need to find another home. The reason may be stated in the ad, but ask for more specific details.
Check out the home carefully. Don’t let the owners meet you at the mailbox with the kitten in their arms. You want to see where he was raised and, if possible, see the mother cat.
If the owners are trying to place a cat who has behavior problems and you still want to adopt him, find out everything and I mean everything you can. Not only what the problem is but where, when, and how it happens. What methods did they use to correct the problem? The behavior problem may be a result of something going on in that household and might be solved just by removing the cat. Just make sure you’ve received full disclosure and that you’re prepared to be patient through the cat’s adjustment period.
Sometimes adult cats are put up for adoption because there have been changes in the family. For example, the owner may have passed away and the relatives are trying to place the cat. If you know the reason why the cat is being rehomed, you can be better prepared to help him through the changes.
An adult cat from a previous home often makes a wonderful companion as long as you have the time and patience to help him. Cats who have lost their owners, been abused, or are suddenly shunned (because of something such as rejection by an owner’s new spouse), are confused, scared, and in crisis. With your love, though, they stand a chance at a wonderful life.
If it’s a kitten advertised and the ad states that initial vaccinations have been given, don’t just take a stranger’s word for it. Ask to see written proof in the form of a vaccination record and veterinary clinic receipt. Don’t be satisfied by one of those little “My Pet’s Record” folders where the vaccinations are checked off and the date entered. Anyone with a pen can write in those booklets. Find out who the veterinarian is and call for verification if the owners have no written proof.
If the owner has the mother cat, find out if she is up-to-date on vaccinations and has tested negative for feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus.
Another big question that should be on your mind is why did this owner allow the cat to become pregnant? Are they backyard breeders who thought they could make a little money by mating their purebred with some friend’s male purebred? By purchasing a kitten from such people you only encourage them to continue this practice. If you think you’ll be getting a valuable purebred at a bargain, you’re sadly mistaken. What you may actually be doing is paying a high price for a low-quality cat with genetic defects.
I’m also upset about the people who don’t alter their mixed-breed cats, and then when the cat has a litter, put an ad on Craigslist knowing that people are always looking for kittens and they’ll be able to get those four or five little problems off their hands.
Getting a Kitten or Cat from Your Friend or Neighbor
Refer to the previous section on “Online and Newspaper Ads” because the same dos and don’ts apply. They may be fabulous gardeners or conscientious neighbors but problematic cat owners. Ask the right questions.
Check Out the People, Not Just the Cats
Summon up every intuitive ability you have, and while you’re asking questions of the people who have raised the kitten or cat, make sure you’re comfortable with their answers. During consultations I’ve learned that when I ask questions of owners, they’ll often give me the answer they think I want to hear rather than the truth. I’ve had to sharpen my skill at separating fact from fiction. If anything a breeder or private owner says doesn’t coincide with what you’re seeing, then your antenna should go up. Ask questions and get whatever accurate history is available on the kitten.
When the Cat Chooses You
I’ll bet that if you took a poll among cat owners, an overwhelming number of them would tell you that they hadn’t been looking for a cat, hadn’t planned on one, and maybe didn’t even care much for cats—the feline love of their lives just walked in. More often than not, it’s the cats who choose us, whether they show up at our doorstep, on the roadside as we take our morning run, or are huddled on the warm hood of our car on a cold winter night. This is the way almost all of my cats have come into my life.
If a cat appears at your door, before deciding to become his owner, make sure he doesn’t belong to anyone else. Obviously check for a collar or any other form of identification. Some owners have microchips implanted under the cat’s skin. These chips are then read by a special hand-held scanner. Many shelters and veterinarian clinics have these scanners. Check with your local shelter and the veterinarians in your area in case someone has been searching for a lost cat. Search Craigslist and your local newspaper and consider placing an ad yourself. Don’t tell everything about the cat, though, so you’ll be able to tell who the true owner is. For example, if the cat has a white spot on his back right foot, or is missing a canine tooth, these are the kinds of facts that only the true owners would know. You need to be careful because there are some very cruel people in this world who will take a free cat for inhumane reasons.
Before keeping the cat who seems to have chosen you, he’ll need to be tested for diseases such as feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus. He should also be vaccinated and dewormed, if necessary.
If the cat who chooses you is feral (a cat who has reverted back to the wild and has had no human socialization) as opposed to being a stray (a cat someone once owned and socialized but has since been on his own for whatever sad reason), then the process of becoming his owner is more complicated. A feral cat hasn’t been handled or socialized through contact with humans. These cats can remain mistrustful and distant. They also may not integrate well into households where there are existing cats without a good deal of rehab work and behavior modification.
I don’t mean to dissuade you from bringing a feral into your family but I have to caution you because it’s not an ideal situation for the average person. Ferals require lengthy trust-building and a solid behavior modification plan. You have to have the skill and patience needed to work at the cat’s pace. You also need appropriate living conditions for the cat because he’ll initially need to be in a large cage and then eventually housed in one room while you work on trust-building. Ill-equipped owners can be injured by a frightened, defensive feral. The safety of children in the home must also be considered as well as the safety of existing companion animals. If you don’t think you have the skills to rehabilitate a feral cat and there is one (or more) in your area, contact the nearest feline rescue group. They will have the information concerning whether there are any skilled foster homes that are feral-specific or whether there is a TNR (trap-neuter-release) program near you. If there are no feline rescue groups in your area then contact your local humane organization.
Pick of the Litter
Rule number one: Don’t let anyone sell or give you a kitten taken away from his mother before he’s ten to twelve weeks of age. Kittens need to be with their mother and also their littermates until that time. This is the time they’re still learning from each other. The playing and posturing kittens do with each other is actually preparing them for adulthood. They’re learning valuable social skills. Kittens taken away from their littermates too early may sometimes have difficulty integrating into multicat households later. They may not have appropriate play skills and can have trouble bonding with companion pets. This isn’t always the case but you need to be informed so you can make the best choice for your family.
Rule number two: A kitten who wasn’t properly socialized may have trouble bonding to humans. The crucial socialization period is between three to seven weeks. It’s at this time that frequent gentle handling by humans help kittens learn to trust and become comfortable around us scary-looking giants.
Observe the mother cat if possible, and ask questions concerning the kind of care she gives her kittens. How is the mother cared for? What kind of physical condition is she in? If she looks thin and unhealthy then the quality and quantity of the milk she provided her kittens could be compromised.
With five adorable kittens staring at you, how do you choose just one? It’s hard. Your head is calmly saying, “We agreed that we’d get only one kitten,” but your heart is saying, “They’re so cute, WE WANT THEM ALL!” Stop and think. Your heart may want them all but your resources may be too limited.
Catwise Clue
If you’re at a shelter or in a situation where you don’t have the opportunity to observe the litter (the kittens may already have been separated), then TAKE YOUR TIME when evaluating whether the kitten you’re looking at is right for you. It’s a decision you’ll both have to live with for a long time.
If you don’t have any other cats already at home, though, I would strongly recommend that you do consider taking two kittens. Adopting or purchasing two kittens will be a very rewarding experience. They’ll continue to learn from each other as they grow, they’ll have companionship (because you can’t always be around), and from a behavioral standpoint, it’s a heck of a lot easier to bring two kittens into a household together than to get just one and decide after he’s an adult that he needs a buddy. Adult cats are territorial and introducing a second cat takes finesse. I can’t even count how many owners of adult cats have told me how they wished they’d adopted a second kitten when they had the chance.
Finding Your Feline Soul Mate
If there’s a litter of kittens, try to see them all. Even if you know in advance that you want a female, and the owners tell you that there’s only one in the litter, look at each kitten anyway. Why would I want you to look at the males when you’re sure you want a girl? Observing the litter as a whole can help you sort out personality types. You may want a female kitten but maybe you don’t want a wild one; by watching the whole group you’ll get a sense of where she fits in. You may find a male cat who seems playful and confident but not as revved up. Although you may be tempted to rescue the so-called runt of the litter, realize that the kittens who are on the far ends of the scale (i.e., very aggressive or very timid) may develop behavioral problems. I’m not saying that only perfect kittens should be adopted, just that you have to be aware of your expectations and your limiting factors. If your family is expecting that perfect kitten, then bringing them a very frightened kitten who hides at the slightest sound or movement will be difficult for the family and for the kitten.
Many people choose kittens on looks alone. They’ve always wanted a black cat or maybe it’s the orange tabby look that melts their heart. While looks are certainly nice, take a moment to think back over relationships you’ve had in your life. How successful have your relationships been that were based on looks alone? Would you choose a partner to spend the rest of your life with just because he or she is attractive? If you answered “yes,” then I want you to take this book, close it, hold it up to your head, and give yourself a good whack. Shame on you.
Now, let’s get back to work. Remember, the cat you choose will, with luck and care, be in your family for twelve or more years. We have a twenty-threeyear-old cat at our house. Physical appearance is only a part of what makes up a cat. Now you can get an ice pack for that lump on your head.
Checking Out the Kitten’s Temperament
Find out if the kittens have just eaten before attempting to evaluate potential personalities and activity levels, because everyone will most likely be sleepy after a meal.
• Notice who is playful, confident, and friendly.
• Get down on the floor and let the kitten (or kittens) get used to you. How does he react? Does he panic and hide? Does he hiss at you? Basically, he should be comfortable and unafraid.
• Tempt the kitten with anything that will elicit a play response (a feather will do). He should express interest in it, pouncing on it and batting it around, and in general, if he causes you to giggle with his antics, he gets an A+.
• After he’s enjoyed a good playtime and has settled down (remember, kittens seem to have bursts of energy), try gently holding him. He shouldn’t hiss, spit, or attempt to seriously bite or scratch. He may bite gently in play though, since he is a kitten and hasn’t been trained yet. Determine whether the bite is playful, a warning, or a no-nonsense chomp. And, while kittens in general don’t tend to want to sit still long enough to be held for any length of time, he should be accepting of handling. Kittens who haven’t been well socialized to humans will do everything in their power to get out of your grasp. A little squirming is fine, but biting, fear, and aggression are not.
The Physical Once-Over
While a kitten may not want to stay still long enough for you to do a thorough exam, you should check him out physically before you make your decision. Your veterinarian ought to examine him as well. Once again, I’m not saying you should reject a kitten if he has fleas or ear mites, but be aware of potential health issues. If the kitten is ill, you may be going back and forth to the veterinarian. Can you handle the possible expense? You also don’t want to fall in love with a kitten who won’t survive. BE INFORMED.
• Skin and coat. A healthy kitten has a soft coat with no bald patches or broken hairs (which could indicate ringworm). Sniff the kitten’s fur—it should smell clean. If the coat is greasy, rough, dry, or has an odor, it could mean parasites, improper care, or an underlying disease. Keep in mind that most kittens and puppies are born with worms and will get dewormed several times early in life.
The skin should look clean, without any scabs or rashes. Look for signs of fleas or flea dirt (flea excrement—little black specks). Don’t reject a kitten just because he has fleas, but be aware that a badly infested kitten may be anemic from the loss of blood caused by the parasites.
• Body. When you pick the kitten up, he shouldn’t feel fat or skinny. If you can feel his ribs, that’s okay. If you can see his ribs, then he’s too thin. His belly shouldn’t feel hard or swollen. If he has a potbellied look, then he probably has worms.
• Eyes. They should be clear and free of any film or discharge (either watery, milky, or greenish). There should be no sign of squinting and the nictitating membrane (a protective membrane that unfolds to cover the eye) shouldn’t be visible. The normal position for the nictitating membrane is to remain folded in the inner corner of the eye.
• Ears. They should look clean inside. Head shaking or the appearance of gritty brownish/black exudate indicates a strong probability of ear mites. While not a reason to reject a kitten, be aware that he’ll require medication for about three weeks (the life cycle of the ear mite).
• Mouth. The gums should be pink, not red, and not pale. Teeth should be white. Look for signs of periodontal disease (red, inflamed gums, tartar buildup, loose teeth, foul breath) in adult cats. Ask about the kitten or cat’s diet and appetite. Make sure a kitten is able to eat solid food.
• Tail. To be more precise, it’s what is under the tail area. It should be clean, with no signs of discharge or diarrhea.
Be realistic when evaluating the kitten or cat. Don’t reject him just because he may have something such as tapeworms, fleas, or ear mites, but be cautious of potentially serious problems.
Documentation, Guarantees, and Paperwork
If you’re purchasing from a breeder, read every word of the contract and guarantee. Question anything you don’t understand. It should be written in the guarantee that when you take the cat to be examined by the veterinarian, if he is determined to be unhealthy, you can return him. I know it sounds cold, almost as if you’re buying a washing machine and not a living creature, but keep in mind that some people spend thousands of dollars for certain breeds of cats and there are some breeders who will knowingly sell you an unhealthy pet then refuse to refund your money.
If it’s written in the guarantee that should the kitten be deemed unhealthy by the veterinarian, you can choose another cat but not a refund, insist on having that changed. None of the remaining kittens may be what you want. The option should be yours to decide if you want to take your business elsewhere, rather than being locked into taking the “best of the worst.”
The “Special Needs” Kitty
Not everyone looks for the perfect kitty. Some are drawn to the kitten or cat no one else wants. Cats with physical disabilities very often turn out to be the most amazing companions—some should even be applauded for being kitty role models, so to speak. But sadly, some don’t do well. If you have it in you to give a kitten or cat a second chance at life, consult your veterinarian to discuss what you can expect in terms of care required and long-term prognosis.
If you decide that you do want to adopt and nurse an ill kitten or cat back to health, make sure you’re prepared for the time, expense, and possible heartbreak should your best efforts fail. Bringing a sick cat home to a household where there are existing cats will also mean isolating him to keep everyone safe. Think everything through carefully before committing to the welfare of a cat with special needs.