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Watch Out for That Hot Tin Roof
Creating a Safe Home for Your Unstoppable Kitten
 
 
 
 
Tragically, many times we learn lessons too late. It isn’t until the kitten gets burned at the stove or swallows some thread that we rearrange things in our home. Don’t think that just because you put the crystal vase up on a shelf, that a curious, adventurous kitten won’t find a way to get up there and knock it over.
Before you bring the kitten home and everyone gets caught up in the excitement is the time to go through your home and create a safe environment.
Especially if it is a kitten you are bringing home, you’ll need to go room by room through the house, because her energy, curiosity, and lack of experience will cause her to try some potentially dangerous stunts. If it’s an adult cat you’re bringing in, you’ll still need to “cat proof,” but it’s the relentlessly curious kitten who will have to depend on you to keep her out of trouble.
Later in this chapter, I’ll discuss how to bring your kitten or cat into the house and create a room for her so she can begin to adjust to her new life. For now, though, you have some preventative kitten-proofing to do.
005 Catwise Clue
From your kitten’s point of view, if it’s not nailed down, bolted to the ceiling, or glued to the wall, it’s a potential toy.

A House Is a Dangerous Thing

When you bring a new pet home you have two immediate safety concerns: protecting your pet and protecting your house.
Even though the kitten may be a tiny little thing, there’s very little out of her reach. To get a proper perspective on how a kitten views our world, get on your hands and knees and crawl around a little. Come on, don’t be embarrassed—no one’s looking. Do you notice how your perspective changes? Look at how those dangling electrical cords, that you as a human never notice, are now in plain view? And look at that sewing basket by the chair—from here it’s a basket of yarn, thread, and other things that a kitten could hardly resist viewing as toys. Now, bear with me a little longer, and go from being on your hands and knees to lying flat on your stomach. Now look around. The perspective changes again (and now you’re truly kitten height). What do you see? Perhaps you notice the aspirin tablet that you lost last night when it rolled under a chair. Oh, and there’s a needle on the carpet next to the sewing basket. And there’s that jelly bean that your daughter dropped yesterday. Perhaps you even notice how there’s enough space behind the refrigerator for a kitten to get stuck. And look at those dustballs rolling around—uh-oh, better get the vacuum cleaner out.
The next exercise I want you to do is look up, way up, from your current position on the floor. (If someone walks in on you, just tell them you’re doing your yoga exercises.) From this position, you’ll be able to see how a little kitten could find many ways to climb to where all the interesting stuff is. After she scales the back of the couch, what’s waiting for her on the end table? Is an ashtray full of cigarette butts sitting there? A candy wrapper with half of a chocolate bar left inside? Once she climbs the curtain, will she reach an open window without a screen?
We have a lot of work to do!

Electrical Cords and Phone Cords

Three main dangers exist here: 1) the risk of electrical burns should your kitten chew through the cords, 2) the chance of her pulling something such as a lamp or an iron over on top of herself; and 3) the possibility that she could get tangled up in a cord.
Try to avoid having dangling cords, especially the mass of cords that are often around electronic equipment and computers. Hide cords as well as you can by tucking them out of sight and out of reach. You can find cord containment devices at your local office supply store. They come in several configurations. You can even make them yourself if you prefer with tubing or PVC pipe from your local home improvement center. Make a lengthwise slit along one side and push the cords through. Some home improvement stores sell cord containment systems that run along the baseboard and get secured to the wall with metal clips. Any exposed part of the cords should be coated with a bitter tasting anti-chew substance. On a regular basis, go around and check any exposed cords for signs of teeth marks or damage.
The danger of a kitten tugging on a cord and having whatever is on the other end topple over on her is a real one. If you’re using a small appliance such as an iron, hair dryer, curling iron, and so on, be sure to secure the cord out of kitty’s reach when you’re done.
To prevent your kitten from sticking her paw in an electrical outlet, use outlet covers that can be purchased in the baby safety section.
If you’re a dinosaur like me and still have one corded phone, you need to ensure your kitten doesn’t view it as another toy or chew object. Believe it or not, I actually know a few dinosaurs older than myself who have phones with very long cords. If mobility is really important while you’re on the phone, switch to a cordless unit in areas where the cat will have access, or use a retractable cord.
Even though it was a fair amount of work when I first started cat-proofing my home, there were two extra benefits that I hadn’t anticipated. The first was that my home and especially my office looked so much neater without tangles of cords in sight. The second benefit was that by the time my first child came along, our home was mostly baby-proofed already. I just needed to do a little tweaking, but life with our cats had already made us conscientious parents.

Strings and Things

A cat has backward-facing barbs on her tongue so if she eats certain objects she has to swallow them because they can’t be dislodged. String objects in particular pose a danger. You may see lots of cute pictures of kittens playing with balls of yarn, spools of thread, or Christmas tinsel, but in real life these things can cause very serious injury. The same holds true for string, ribbon, and rubber bands.
It’s ironic that it can be nearly impossible to give your cat a pill should medicating be necessary, yet that same cat happily swallows the most unlikely objects such as earrings, pills not intended for her, or pieces of toys, among many other seemingly unappetizing objects. As you go around your house, if an object looks small enough to swallow or like something a kitten might bat around with her paw, put it away.
006 Catwise Caution
Should you find thread or string hanging out of either the kitten’s mouth or rectum, DON’T pull it. A needle could be attached to the other end. The string may also have gotten tangled enough that pulling would cause internal damage. Get your cat to the veterinarian or emergency clinic right away.

Prevent Disappearing Acts

As part of her ongoing investigation, a kitten will inevitably find, and try to get into, the smallest, narrowest spot in the house—the space behind the refrigerator or the inside of a shoe in the closet, for instance. Block access to dangerous areas and use child-proof locks on cabinets that don’t have secure latches.
Always check on the whereabouts of your kitten when opening and closing drawers and doors. Closets are a popular hangout for kittens and cats. If you plan on allowing your kitten to sleep or play in a closet, fix the door so it won’t close all the way and shut her in. Foam finger-pinch door guards work great in this situation. They slip on and off the door easily and are readily available in the child safety section of many stores. Whenever you go into any closet, always check before closing the door. Kittens have often been accidentally locked in closets for an entire day because their owners didn’t notice them before closing the closet door and leaving for work.
Boxes, bags, and even piles of laundry can also be great hiding places, so check to be sure your kitten isn’t in one before throwing a box away or putting a pile of laundry in the washer.
Kittens can climb inside of an open drawer before you’re even aware of it so close any drawer as soon as you’re through, but check inside it first. Kittens can easily be trapped behind the drawer as well, and you could injure her when you close the drawer.
Another thing to remember is that you’ll have to change some of your precat habits. If you used to stand at the front door, holding it open as you waved good-bye to your school-bound children, you’ll now have to stand on the porch or wave from behind the safety of the closed door.
Later in this chapter, we’ll go room by room and work on specific kitten-proofing methods.

Innocent-Looking Poisons

A surprising number of household items are poisonous to cats—from the detergents and cleansers you store under your sink to the mothballs in your closet. It’s not enough just to be careful that lids are tight, you also must be sure the cabinet doors are securely latched so there’s no chance of your kitten finding her way to the danger. Even if the cap is tightly on the bottle, any drips that have run down the outside can be harmful should the kitten lick them or rub up against the bottle.
007 Catwise Clue
When you spray a bitter anti-chew spray on your plants, take the plants outdoors or cover the floor with newspaper or a towel to avoid getting the spray all over everything. Be sure to wash your hands as soon as you’ve finished because you definitely don’t want to taste this stuff or get it in your eyes.
Most plants are poisonous to cats, causing reactions that range from irritating to outright deadly. Keep poisonous plants out of kitty’s reach. Trim hanging plants so they aren’t a temptation and spray the leaves with an anti-chew spray made especially for plants. It doesn’t harm the plants and its bitter taste will discourage your kitten from munching on the leaves.
Your medications and vitamins pose a serious danger to your kitten. Acetaminophen (such as Tylenol) is so toxic that just one pill can be fatal. Don’t leave any medications around because your kitten could be tempted to play with it and wind up ingesting something deadly.
Antifreeze is toxic to animals and just a small amount can be deadly. The added danger of this chemical is that it has a sweet taste, which can attract pets. A few companies manufacture less toxic products now. Check with your local auto supply store or online.

Windows

Many people are under the assumption that cats have perfect balance and, even if they fall, always land on their feet. While they do have the ability to right their body while falling, if the distance is too short they won’t have time, and if they fall from a higher distance, the impact can cause serious injury to their legs and chest. A fall from a high window can kill a cat no matter how she lands. Do you think the ability to land on your feet would make much difference in a tenstory fall?
All windows should have sturdy well-fitting screens that can’t be pushed out. An unscreened window opened just a crack can still be wiggled through by a determined cat chasing a fly or curious to get at the sights and smells of the outside.
Don’t make the very tragic mistake of assuming your placid cat understands how high up she is and will just sit on the window sill sunning herself. It only takes being distracted by a passing bird or insect for her to lean too far out and lose her balance.
Cords from window blinds and drapes can also be very dangerous. A cat can get tangled in them and possibly end up hanging herself. Secure all cords by rolling them up and tucking them out of reach or use a cord containment device.

Room-by-Room

The Kitchen

This is a dangerous room that looks so deceptively innocent. Everywhere you turn, there’s something that could potentially cause harm to your pet. Let’s start with the appliances.
A kitten who is able to get up onto the counter (and it doesn’t take long before she’ll be big enough to make it in one easy leap) could walk across a hot stove. Enticing food aromas make that danger even greater.
When cooking at the stove, keep a squirt bottle handy in case your cat shows any sign of attempting to jump. This is the one place where using an immediate deterrent is necessary because there is never a reason for your cat to come anywhere near the danger of the stove.
Because of the immediate danger that hot burners pose, be on your guard if she’s in the kitchen with you. From her point of view, all she knows is that there are tempting smells coming from the area. She won’t realize until it’s too late that the surface is hot. Use burner covers if needed after removing the food from the stove.
I’ve seen curious kittens crawl up into the refrigerator without the owners even being aware of it. Before closing the door, always check for the possibility that your kitten is hiding behind the mayonnaise jar.
To keep your kitten from getting behind the refrigerator, tape a piece of cardboard across the space, blocking the way.
Oh, the delicious smells coming up from the garbage disposal—from a cat’s point of view, of course. Keep it clean and empty; never allow food to sit in the disposal, which creates a dangerous temptation. Routinely running fresh lemon slices through the disposal will help keep it clean and provide a citrus scent which isn’t appealing to cats. As an added safety feature, keep a drain-stopper over the opening.
Check before you close the dishwasher door to be sure a sneaky kitten hasn’t crawled in while you were loading it and not looking.
Kittens very often don’t know what food is good for them. As far as they’re concerned, the world is just one big buffet. Some foods can be deadly (these include chocolate as well as chicken bones) and some spicy or rich foods can cause illness. Keep food in containers and never leave tempting food unsupervised. Use covered garbage cans in your kitchen or secure the can in a cabinet with a child-proof latch.
Glasses and other breakable items can be knocked to the floor and shattered when a cat jumps on the counter. I think it’s a must that from the beginning you establish boundaries for where your kitten may and may not venture. The kitchen counter should always be off limits. For training tips, refer to Chapter 7.
Rodent or insect poisons, traps, and baits you may have placed in certain areas of the kitchen might not be as out of kitty’s reach as you think. Be very careful about which products you use and where you place them. If you’re having a pest problem, consult a professional exterminator and your veterinarian for information on the best products to use.
Sharp utensils that contain food residue may cause injury if left out. A dirty steak knife or the big one used to carve the Thanksgiving turkey can injure a cat’s tongue should she attempt to lick the tasty juices clinging to the sharp edge. The same holds true for the sharp-pronged corn-on-the-cob holders, toothpicks, skewers, etc.
Speaking of toothpicks, don’t ever leave them on the counter because of the danger of your cat chewing on them. Store them in a closed container in the cabinet. If you’re testing a cake for doneness by using a toothpick, don’t leave it out before or after you use it.

The Bathroom

Get in the habit of keeping the toilet lid closed. A kitten attempting to jump onto the seat and not expecting an opening there can easily slip and fall right in. An adult cat may be able to jump out but a kitten is unable to and will most likely drown. Keep the lid down to also prevent pets from drinking the water. If you use an automatic toilet disinfectant, its chemicals will harm an adult cat or a kitten if ingested. I strongly advise against using the automatic bowl disinfectants just because of the risk to pets. Even if you leave a note over the toilet to remind all family members and guests, someone might still neglect to close the lid. Keeping a closed toilet lid will also prevent the things your kitten knocks off the tank from falling into the bowl.
Hair dryers, curling irons, and electric rollers shouldn’t be left on the bathroom counters. Should the kitten pull the dangling cords, there’s a risk that the appliance would come down on her.
Not only medications but also makeup, nail polish, polish remover, and perfume are all toxic so keep those tightly capped if you leave them on counters.
The wastebasket in the bathroom should have a snap-on lid or should be kept in a cabinet. Dangerous things such as dental floss, discarded razor blades, and disposable razors can lurk in there.
Keep all bathroom cleansers put away in cabinets and make sure that your clever cat can’t open the doors.
The toilet paper roll is something that many cats think is a special toy installed just for their playtime pleasure. Many owners have come home to find shreds of toilet paper from one end of the house to the other with not one single piece left hanging on the roll itself.
There are a couple of ways to cat-proof the toilet paper. You can start with the easiest way, which may deter your cat if she tends to give up easily, though not many of us are lucky enough to have such a cat. Before you put the toilet paper on the roller, push in on it so the cardboard center isn’t perfectly round anymore. It won’t unroll as easily once it’s installed. Then, install it so the paper unrolls from underneath and not up over the top. This will also make it less likely that the cat will successfully be able to unroll it when she braces her paws up on the roll and starts scratching.
For cats who are not easily deterred, there are baby-proofing products that work very well for cats as well. There are toilet paper devices with hinged covers that easily snap onto the roller. Safety 1st makes one called Toilet Roll Saver, but there are others available online.

The Living Room

Take a cat’s eye view of your furniture. Is there anything that could potentially be a danger to your kitten? Rocking chairs are notorious for landing on cat tails and paws. If you have a recliner, it poses a very serious risk to your cat should you forget to be sure she isn’t underneath before attempting to raise or lower the footrest.
If you have a fireplace, you’ll need a very sturdy screen to keep your kitten out of danger. Don’t ever leave the kitten unsupervised in the room when you have a fire going.
Cats love warm places, so check before closing any doors to an entertainment cabinet to be sure your kitty isn’t curled up on top of the TV or DVR.

The Bedroom

As I’ve said, be careful not to lock the cat in the closet and check before closing any drawers. An added danger in some closets and drawers are mothballs. Just the fumes from mothballs can cause serious liver damage to a cat, so don’t put them in any closet or drawer that your kitty might have access to.
Be careful about small jewelry items. Make sure they are put away in a box or drawer so your kitten won’t swallow them or bat them to the floor.
Many cats, especially frightened ones, will claw at the material underneath the box-spring part of a mattress. Once they make a hole they often crawl up inside because it feels safe. To prevent this, slide a fitted sheet over the bottom of the box-spring.

The Laundry Room

When I worked at an animal hospital, we had several clients who tragically failed to check the clothes dryer before closing the door. They were unaware that their kittens had crawled inside. The thought of how horribly those kittens died continues to haunt me. I check my washer and dryer without fail before I close the door and turn the machine on. I don’t just look, I also feel around. When I’m unloading the laundry, I check again before closing the door to make sure none of my cats are trapped in the empty machine. Detergents and bleaches should be safely put away out of the kitten’s reach.
If your laundry room has a door, close it when you’re doing laundry to keep your kitten out of there. This is one very important reason why I don’t really like having the litter box located in the laundry room.
When you do your ironing, don’t leave the iron and ironing board unsupervised. Should your kitten try to jump up on it, the board and the iron could topple over onto her. As soon as you’ve finished, unplug the iron, wrap the cord around the base, and put it in a safe place to cool.
If your family normally leaves dirty clothes in a pile or even in a laundry basket, there’s a good chance the kitten will discover it to be a great place for a nap. Don’t just toss the pile into the washer or even the hamper without first checking. Having the kitten around could be a good excuse to ask your family to be a little neater. Ask them to toss their dirty duds in the hamper and always make sure to close the lid immediately.

The Home Office

As I write this, there is one cat on my lap and another on the chair next to me. I couldn’t imagine not having at least one cat near me whenever I’m in my office, but cats aren’t always compatible with computers so you have to take precautions to protect not only your pet but your equipment as well.
What with the computer, printer, fax, phone, copier, lamps, and whatever else you have that requires an outlet you usually wind up with a big mess of cords behind your desk. Refer to the section on electrical cords earlier in this chapter to learn how to keep them safely away from kitty.
Don’t leave your computer keyboard exposed and unattended if you have a kitten who feels compelled to type a million Zs or Qs with her dancing paws. A keyboard drawer is a great idea when you have a keyboard-loving kitten.
If you use a paper shredder, take precautions to make sure your kitten isn’t in the vicinity. The moving parts of any of your office machines can be dangerous, so watch your kitten carefully.
To reduce the amount of cat hair that will inevitably find its way into your equipment, you may want to invest in plastic covers to put over them when they’re not in use if they aren’t secured in cabinets. You’ll probably want to invest in a supply of compressed air and other computer cleaning equipment to reduce the build-up of cat hair.
All small items, such as thumbtacks, push pins, rubber bands, paper clips, etc., should be kept in covered containers or in drawers.
If your cat consistently attempts to chew on rubber bands that are wrapped around piles of papers or even loves to nibble on the paper itself, set up a few dummy papers coated with an anti-chew product. Lay out a few treated papers and coat any rubber bands that are wrapped around the papers. Set these out every time you’re at the desk working so your kitty gets the consistent message that this stuff tastes awful. Don’t leave the rubber bands out if you’re not there to supervise, though. Of course, if you do have a paper chewer, the best solution would be to keep paper put away or out of your cat’s reach. You could also try to keep her totally out of the office, but that’s not always possible. If you feel as if you’re battling with your kitty over shreds of paper but you don’t want to lock her out of your home office then set up some constructive distraction for her. Keep a supply of safe toys for her to enjoy when you’re working in your office. Food-dispensing puzzle toys are a great distraction.
When I first set up my home office, one lesson I learned the hard way was to put my answering machine where my cats were least likely to step on it. One cat stepped on the outgoing announcement button once and erased my businesslike recording and replaced it with a well-timed “meow.” While I thought that was so cute and clever of him, I was less pleased a few days later when he stepped on the erase button and wiped out all of my incoming messages.

Children’s Play Room

Modeling clay, tiny toys, or any game pieces that could be swallowed should be put away when your children are finished playing with them. I’m a mother and I know it’s often a losing battle to get kids to pick up their toys but the consequences of not doing it can be worse—such as having to take your kitten in for emergency surgery to remove a blockage.
Look around—balloons, ribbons, strings, etc.; anything that looks tempting or dangerous needs to be secured.

The Basement, Attic, and Garage

These are three areas where your kittens shouldn’t ever be allowed to go.
When you need to go into the attic, I urge you first to close the kitten in another room. A dark, interesting attic can be irresistible to a kitten. Contact with insulation can cause breathing difficulty and skin irritation. And should you shut the door without realizing that your kitten has hidden in the attic, exposure to the extreme temperatures could result in her death.
Basements and garages also hold lots of danger in the form of stored paints, cleaning agents, pesticides, antifreeze, etc. There are also sharp-edge tools and other equipment that can cause injury to the curious kitten.
If you park your car in the garage, on cold days a cat might crawl up into the engine, seeking warmth and end up getting killed when you start the engine. Antifreeze that leaks from your car and sits on the garage floor is also a deadly danger for your cat.
An automatic garage door can kill a cat should she be attempting to get in or out while the door is closing. Garage doors typically come with sensors that prevent them from closing if something is in the path, but older models may not have that safety feature.
Because of all the potentially deadly hazards in basements and garages, I don’t feel that your kitten should ever be near them. You have a big enough job making sure you create a safe indoor environment—why take unnecessary risks by exposing her to these additional hazards?

Balconies

A cat shouldn’t ever be allowed on a balcony. Railings don’t offer much protection for a cat who can slip underneath or through the bars. All it takes is for your cat to get distracted by one bird or flying insect, and a tragedy could result. Don’t mistakenly believe that supervision will keep her safe. Should a passing bird entice your cat, her instinct to leap after her prey will cause her to go over the railing long before you can grab her.
If you’re still under the assumption that cats always land on their feet, refer back to the section on windows.

It’s a Jungle Out There—Outdoor Life

Whether a cat should be allowed outdoors is a hot topic among cat owners. Hopefully, after reading this book you’ll have a good understanding of outdoor dangers and with your think like a cat training knowledge you’ll be able to set up a stimulating and fun indoor environment.
I don’t think the outdoors is any place for a cat. There are too many dangers and a little eight-pound cat is no match for cars, trucks, large dogs, mean people, disease, and other very real hazards. Your cat stands a much greater chance of living a longer life if you confine her indoors. Everything she needs is inside your home. As you read through this book, you’ll learn how to create all the best that the outdoors has to offer without exposing her to any of the dangers.
Even though my indoor cats may still get sick or injured, I take great comfort in knowing that they won’t get hit by cars, attacked by dogs, poisoned, abused by cruel people, or get into fights with other cats. Every night when I go to sleep I know my cats are safe.
If you’re going to allow your cat access to the outdoors, you’ll have to be very careful about the fertilizers, weed killers, and pesticides you use on your lawn. Secure all outdoor trash-can lids with bungee cords to prevent a cat from rummaging through the garbage.
Leaks from the bottom of cars, such as antifreeze, are deadly.
In the winter, the salt used to melt ice can burn the pads of a cat’s paws and burn her mouth when she grooms her paws. You will have to use a pet-safe icemelting product. Check with your local pet supply store or online.
Finally, although you may take great pains to assure your cat’s safety when she’s in your yard, should she wander onto a neighbor’s property, you have no idea what hazards she may face.

Collars and Identification

Even if you never plan on allowing your cat outdoors, she should wear identification. Indoor cats can accidentally get outside and from your neighbors’ point of view, one gray-striped tabby running through a yard looks like any other. Identification can mean the difference between getting her back or losing her forever.
Identification tags are available at your local pet supply store or through mail order. You can choose metal or plastic. Many companies offer plastic in neon colors, which make them extremely visible. Reflective tags are also available. Most people engrave the cat’s name, owner’s name, and phone number on the tag and—if there’s room—an address. For an outdoor cat that’s fine, but for an indoor cat I recommend a few changes. My indoor cats’ tags read as follows:
INDOOR CAT
I’M LOST
IF FOUND, CALL
(NAME)
(PHONE NUMBER)
In my yard I come across many cats wearing tags with their names and their owners’ name and number. So many times I’ve called the owner only to be told that the cat is allowed to roam and isn’t lost. So how do you tell the lost cats? From the vital information on the tag. My cats’ names on the tags aren’t as important as the information that they’re indoor cats.
When you shop for a collar, choose a breakaway. This type of collar has an elastic insert so there is no chance that your cat will strangle herself should she get caught on a tree branch.
008 Catwise Clue
Don’t weigh your cat’s neck down with all kinds of bells, thinking that it will warn away any birds. I’m convinced that a cat with the disadvantage of bells is forced to become even stealthier and faster at the hunt.
When you fit the collar around your cat’s neck, be careful that it’s not too tight. You should be able to get two fingers underneath. If you are fitting a kitten, keep in mind that she’s constantly growing and you must frequently check her collar. Don’t let a day go by without testing the fit.
To get your cat used to the idea of wearing a collar, put it on her, then distract her with playtime or feed her dinner. While she may scratch and paw at it initially, if you focus her attention elsewhere, she’ll become comfortable soon enough. If she continues to struggle, take it off and try again at the next mealtime. Until you’re sure she’s used to the collar, don’t leave it on her when you’re not around to supervise.
Other forms of identification are available to pet owners. You can have a microchip that can be read by a hand-held scanner implanted just under the cat’s skin. Veterinarians and humane shelters are equipped with scanners that read the information on the chip. I personally think the combination of the microchip and visible ID tag is best. The visible tag allows your neighbor or someone driving along a road to immediately contact you. The microchip is a great backup in case the collar gets hung up on a branch or removed by someone. If you really want your kitty protected, use both methods.

Always Keep a Current “Lost Cat” Picture

In addition to identification on your kitty, always have at least one clear picture to use in case the unthinkable happens and she gets lost. As she grows and changes, take a few good shots in which her face and markings are clearly visible. As a pet owner, I certainly have loads and loads of pictures but in a crisis, I don’t want to have to go searching through a stack for the right one. I have my “lost cat” pictures in an envelope clearly marked so no time will be wasted should that disaster ever occur. For tips on how to find your lost cat, see Chapter 14.

Your Cat Isn’t the Only One Who Needs Protection

Perhaps your son has a pet lizard or your daughter has a gerbil. Maybe you have a bird or keep fish. How do you train the cat to leave these creatures alone? You don’t. Cats are natural predators. While your kitten may seem to get along well with your parakeet, don’t take chances. Keep these pets in separate locations in the house—always.
Fish tanks must have super secure cat-proof lids. I’ve had clients whose cats have managed to figure out even the most complicated, weighted-down tank covers and luckily, the owners were home and able to save both the cats and the fish.
Some kittens who are raised around birds or mice may not view them as prey but I think it’s too big a risk. If you’re thinking that a cat-proof bird or mouse cage will allow everyone to coexist, keep in mind the anxiety that the mouse or bird will experience by having a predator so close by.

Bringing Kitty Home

Whether you’re bringing home a tiny little kitten weighing in at less than one pound or a full-grown Maine Coon at a whopping eighteen pounds, you’ll need a carrier. If you already have a cat at home, don’t use the same carrier for the new kitty. Refer to Chapter 14 for the types of carriers and how to transport a cat safely.
Why should you bring her home in a carrier? Because this is a really big step in her life. She’s leaving what she knows for something totally unfamiliar. Even if her previous life was bad, she has no idea what’s in store for her and this can be very frightening. The carrier will keep her safe during the trip to your house and provide her with a little hiding place.
Place a towel in the bottom of the carrier for comfort and also to absorb any messes. I also always bring an extra towel so I can replace the other one should it get soiled.
Because this is such a big step for a little cat (and for you), if you can arrange it, the best time to bring her home is at the start of a weekend or when you have a day or two off.
If you haven’t taken your kitten to the veterinarian yet, make sure it’s done in the next few days. If you already have cats at home, the kitten MUST be taken to the veterinarian to be tested for feline leukemia virus and feline immunodeficiency virus, given a physical, and vaccinated before she is exposed to your current cats or vice versa. The last thing you want to do is bring an unhealthy kitten home. Even if your cats are up-to-date on their vaccinations, no vaccine is 100 percent foolproof. You also don’t want your new kitty bringing any unwanted visitors along with her, such as fleas or ticks, because parasites would certainly enjoy the opportunity for an all-you-can-eat buffet in the form of your current resident pets.

Prepare the Sanctuary Room

The whole family is excited; even the dog is eagerly wagging his tail in anticipation of the new cat’s arrival. In your sweetest voice, explain to them that for the time being, the cat will need a small space of her own and some time to adjust to her new surroundings. As you watch your family’s smiles fade and the dog’s tail droop, remember—you’re doing the right thing.
So why am I being such a meanie and not allowing you to let the cat run free about the house, especially since you’ve already taken the time to kitten-proof it? Because I don’t want to overwhelm her. She’s a small cat and it’s a big house. Imagine if I whisked you off and dropped you in the middle of a large, unfamiliar city. I then tell you that you have to find your way around the entire city right away. You’d probably get lost, overwhelmed, frustrated, scared, and your initial impression of this strange place might be negative. Basically, that’s what you’d be doing to your cat if you gave her the run of the place—you’d be dropping her in a strange city (a foreign one, no less).
Much of a cat’s sense of security centers around her territory, so allow your cat to begin acquainting herself with her new home a little at a time. This is crucial for a kitten because she won’t know where any of her necessities are.
If you’re bringing an adult cat into the house, this is a big change in her life and you must make her feel safe. Safety for her comes in the form of a little sanctuary place. When you set up the sanctuary room, place the litter box on one side of the room and the food/water bowls on the other. It’s important to keep a good distance between them because cats don’t eat in the same area they use for elimination.
Place her in the room but leave her in the carrier. Open the door to the carrier and let her come out in her own time. A kitten will most likely eagerly charge right out, but an adult may not be sure of herself. Even after she has stepped out of the carrier, leave it in the corner of the room as an extra hiding place.
She may hide under the bed for two days, but that’s okay. The fact that she can hide will make her feel better. After you’ve closed the door and left her alone is when she can begin to investigate the room around her. Inch by inch is how she may expand her comfort zone, in quiet, in private, and without a bunch of eyes watching her every move.
No matter what kind of room you’ve chosen to be your kitty’s sanctuary, make sure that there are plenty of hiding places. Don’t put her in an empty room where she’ll feel totally exposed and threatened. If it’s not a room with furniture, place boxes lined with towels around. One trick is to cut a doorway into the side of a box with a lid or a box placed upside down to make a little cardboard cave. Another option is to purchase a couple of soft-sided, flexible kitty tunnels from your local pet supply store.
Create a comfortable and cozy bed area for your new kitty. You can either purchase a pet bed at the store or line a box with some old clothes. I prefer to line a box with a couple of sweatshirts that I’ve worn so the cat can get used to my scent.
If you’re bringing in a kitten at a cold time of year, her room should be warm enough and draft-free.
If you’re bringing your new cat into a household of existing cats, a sanctuary room set up for her is absolutely necessary or the fur will fly! How to introduce a new cat to your other pets is covered in Chapter 11.
How much interaction should you initially have with your new cat? Each case is different. If you brought home a kitten, you’ll need to give her plenty of time and attention because she’ll be anxious to bond with you. If the new arrival is an adult cat, you’ll have to use your judgment and base it on her emotional state. If she acts threatened, back off and give her some time by herself. Introduce yourself slowly as you begin the trust-building process.
How will you know when it’s time to spring your new cat from kitty jail? If she’s a kitten, you can do it as soon as you’re sure she has the routine down: eating, drinking, and using the litter box. Keep in mind, though, that the litter box needs to be convenient for her since her litter box habits are still in the learning stage. Don’t be too anxious to give her the run of a two-thousand-square-foot house. An adult cat may take longer to feel comfortable about venturing outside of the sanctuary room. You should wait for her to resume normal activities and behavior: i.e., eating, drinking, using the litter box, and demonstrating an increased sense of security. If she’s still hiding in the back of the closet, buried beneath a pile of shoes, she’s not ready. If you already have cats in the house, the new cat will need to stay in the room for a while so you can do a gradual introduction (see Chapter 11).
Your main concern for a kitten is to make sure she stays safe and has enough time and privacy to eat, sleep, and use the litter box. Everyone is going to want to hold her and play with her, but she’s still a fragile baby and needs your watchful eye.
When you do decide to open the door, let her investigate the house a little at a time.
How do you introduce a new adult cat to your family? Slowly. She could easily become overwhelmed. I come from a very small family and when I think back to the first time I met my husband’s large family I remember feeling overwhelmed. Do your cat a big favor and let her have all the personal space she needs. Don’t rush anything. After all, you’re going to have many years together, so start things off right.
Your children may have a difficult time understanding the importance of the kitty’s need for a sanctuary room. They may be anxious to have the kitty sleep in bed with them. Use your judgment based on the kitty’s age, level of comfort, and any other specifics of your situation. Make sure the cat absolutely knows where her litter box is and routinely uses it before trusting her in other rooms. A kitten doesn’t have training perfected yet and could have an accident on your child’s bed because she may not remember the location of her box.

Taking in a Timid or Fearful Cat

Be prepared—this is a slow process. Taking in a cat whose history is unknown means you have to give her a wide comfort zone and work slowly on building trust.
Just because you’ve rescued this skinny, hungry, cold, and lonely cat, don’t expect her to instantly recognize her sudden good fortune. Depending upon how much contact she has had with humans (if any at all), it may take a long time before she becomes the loving, sociable, happy cat you want, and in some cases, she may remain somewhat timid or hesitant.
The first thing on your list with a stray should be a trip to the veterinarian. The cat must be tested and vaccinated. If she’s healthy enough at the time, make plans to have her spayed as well. She should be checked for parasites and if there’s so much as one flea on her, take care of that right away so you won’t be bringing the little pests home to your other pets.
Once home, she should be kept in one room just as you would with any new kitty. Make certain there are plenty of hiding places in the room because she’ll need the security as she gets her bearings. If the room doesn’t have enough hiding places, bring in a bunch of boxes and scatter them around the room. Place them on their sides so she’ll have a cover over her head. Another great way to create a hiding place yet allow her to move around is to buy a few soft-sided cat tunnels. You can also make a tunnel by connecting several cardboard boxes together. Cut out the bottoms and then tape the boxes together to create a snakelike path. This may help the cat feel more secure as she tries to go from the closet to the litter box or from under the bed to the food bowl. If you create several hiding place options throughout the room, it can encourage her to start investigating. If you just put the cat in a bedroom without multiple hiding places and security options, she might just stay curled up under the bed, only venturing out for a quick trip to the litter box or the food bowl. And in some cases, a very frightened cat may be too afraid to come out for any reason at all.
One of the best ways to start building a relationship with a stray cat is through food. Even if she doesn’t yet feel secure enough to eat in your presence (which she probably won’t), you will be the source of the food supply and she’ll eventually make that connection.
At night, leave just a small night-light on for the cat. Don’t leave a regular light on because she’ll feel more comfortable moving around in darkness. By having a night-light on, you’ll be able to enter the room and be aware of where she is (in case she tries to bolt out the door), without having to switch on a bright light, which could be unsettling to her.
Start spending time in the room by just sitting on the floor. Don’t try to approach the cat. Let her have total control of the pace of the interaction. While you sit on the floor, quietly talk to her so she gets used to the sound of your voice. Your body language and voice should be casual and nonthreatening and convey a sense of calm.
After a few times of just going in to visit, bring in some special food that the cat will hopefully find irresistible. If she’s starving and goes for anything, try handfeeding her, otherwise, in the beginning, just place the food a safe enough distance away from you. If she responds, you can move it a little closer. Each time you feed her, place the food a fraction of an inch closer to you. If using wet food, handfeeding can be done with a soft baby spoon or a wooden tongue depressor. Watch her comfort level, though. If she gets nervous, you need to back up a few steps. Remember: go slowly. Don’t rush the trust-building process. Let her dictate the pace. Don’t make any sudden moves and don’t try to reach out and pet her.
In between mealtimes, bring in an interactive toy (one with a fishing pole design works best) and casually move it around. Don’t go in her direction because she could get frightened. Just nonchalantly move it to catch her interest. She may or may not feel bold enough to go after it, but at least you’ll be getting her interest. If she does go after the toy, be careful not to bring it too close to you. Work up to that point slowly. After a few play sessions you can let the toy get close to you.
After mealtime or playtime, lay down on the carpet and remain motionless for a while. This may be the time the cat feels brave enough to begin checking you out. When I did this with one of my rescue kitties, I would usually end up falling asleep, then would wake to find her curled up on my legs. The bonding process was taking place. One day I awoke and found that sweet little ball of fur nuzzled up next to my head. It had been a slow trust-building process but that day I saw the light at the end of the tunnel. After quite a while of hiding, fear, and mistrust, she was beginning to let me in. Your patience will pay off, so hang in there.

Have a Safe Holiday

Holidays can be stressful for everyone. For cats, though, it’s an especially confusing time because their whole world can be turned upside down. There are often many strangers coming into the house, and the cat may be overlooked by the busy owner. Using your think like a cat skills, try to look at the events from your kitty’s point of view. An owner’s guests may be viewed as intruders by the cat as they attempt to pick her up and hold her. Usual playtime rituals may get forgotten even as the cat follows the owner around waiting for the appearance of a favorite toy. Unfamiliar kids may be running around the house. It may be too loud, and if kitty can’t find a safe place to sleep she’ll end up hiding under the bed. Doesn’t sound much like a happy holiday to me. Then there’s the food. Why eat that boring old cat food when there’s a feast spread out on the kitchen counter?
Aside from the general holiday dangers, each special day can hold specific dangers, as outlined here.

Christmas

For some cats, Christmas, with all its decorations, must seem like the feline version of Disneyworld. For others, Christmas holds no particular interest. To be safe, even if your cat doesn’t seem to express any interest in the goings-on of the holiday, don’t take chances. Use safe decorations and avoid hazardous temptation.
First, there’s the tree. I know many people who spend lots of time and money decorating their beautiful trees, only to find them later that evening lying across the carpet. Don’t be fooled—your six-pound cat can knock a six-foot tree right over. Use a heavy, sturdy base so the tree won’t be top heavy. Choose a tree that’s wide at the bottom, rather than tall and narrow. You can even install a hook in the wall and attach a strong line from it to the tree. Choose a location where there’s a picture on the wall behind the tree. Remove the picture and place the hook there, where it will be hidden once the picture is replaced after the holiday.
Get your cat used to the tree before you put decorations on it. Leave the bare tree up for at least a day, so you can see how your cat is reacting. If she starts chewing the needles, use a bitter anti-chew spray for plants. If she attempts to climb the tree, blow a quick spritz of compressed air (the kind used to clean electronic equipment) onto an area of the tree near her. Don’t spritz the cat directly.
If you have a live tree, be careful to keep your cat away from the water in the reservoir. The pine sap that comes off the tree and ends up in the water is toxic to cats. So are any life-extender chemicals you might add. Cover the exposed part of the reservoir with netting so you can water easily but your cat can’t get to it to drink.
Now let’s decorate the tree. Start with the lights. Coat each strand with a bitter anti-chew cream to discourage your kitty from munching on the cords. Wear disposable gloves when you do this to limit your exposure to the unpleasant substance and be sure and wash your hands afterward before touching your face. Put the lights deeply into the tree branches. Wrap the light cords around the branches to minimize dangling. To keep the cord that goes from the tree to the outlet safe, slide it through a small piece of PVC pipe. After you purchase the plastic pipe, you can spray-paint it green so it doesn’t look so obvious sitting behind the tree. You can also cut a lengthwise slit in the pipe and then push the cords into it. There are also cord containment devices available to minimize the amount of visible loose cords coming from the bottom of the tree to the wall outlet.
The ornaments you choose should be cat-proof. If you have breakable ones, the best place for them is back in their boxes. That said, if you really want the fragile ones on the tree, place them higher up, out of cat’s reach. The ornaments on the lower third of the tree shouldn’t have any sharp or breakable pieces, string, or anything that could be dangerous.
Ornament hooks can be hazardous too, not just for the cat but for children as well. Instead of hooks, find safer ways to attach your ornaments, such as green twist ties. They’re invisible and securely keep the ornaments on the branch. Ribbon-type ornament hangers can also be used. Coat them first with a bitter anti-chew product to discourage your kitten from attempting to munch.
The gifts you so lovingly wrap and place under the tree need to be cat-safe too. Ribbons are not only a big hazard but unfortunately, the most tempting accessories. Keep your gift wrapping simple. Use a plain bow on top rather than the thin curling ribbon with long tendrils of easily chewable strands. If there are gifts you want to wrap elaborately with lots of flowing ribbon, put them away until it’s time for them to be opened. And, speaking of opening gifts, that’s the time when an unnoticed little kitten can get into trouble. Your family is busy tearing open packages and no one notices that the kitten grabbed the ribbon that was tossed on the floor. Another major potentially dangerous time is when you gather up the discarded wrapping paper and boxes to toss in the outside trash. A kitten could easily be buried in there. If your kitty isn’t in sight, go through every piece of paper and every box before tossing it away.
Be careful about seasonal plants such as poinsettias, holly, and mistletoe. Some are toxic and all cause intestinal problems. Keep them out of your cat’s reach. Another very serious threat to your cat’s safety is the many holiday candles. Don’t leave any candles unattended. A cat’s tail can easily come in contact with the flame or knock the whole candle over. There are many companies that make realistic-looking flameless candles these days. They’re safer for families with pets and small children.
Now we come to my favorite part of Christmas—the food. The rule here for your cat should be simple. Keep her away from it. The rich foods we eat during the holidays will cause your cat digestive upset. Also be very careful of things such as turkey bones, which, if your cat gets hold of, can cause her to choke or suffer serious intestinal injury. Don’t leave the turkey or roast sitting out on the counter if no one’s in the room.
Don’t leave chocolate anything—candies, cookies, alcohol—out unattended when there’s a kitten wandering around. Chocolate is deadly to cats.
Another problem cats and other pets face at Christmas is the sudden invasion of strangers. From the cat’s point of view, strangers suddenly burst through the door. The cat is often pursued by unfamiliar children, denied access to certain favorite spots (such as the guest room), and is all but forgotten by her usually attentive owner. House guests can let your cat outside, step on her, or just downright frighten her. If you’re having a house full of guests for the day, provide your cat with a temporary sanctuary—perhaps in your bedroom or some other area where guest traffic won’t be allowed. Put her litter box in there, along with some water (and food if you free-feed). When I do this for my cats, I first engage them in an interactive play session and then put on some soft classical music. That way, they’re hopefully ready for a nap while I go and attend to my guests. The music acts as a bit of a buffer from the noises coming from the other side of the door. Before leaving the room, I also set up a few solo activities for my cats. This could be in the form of a few puzzle feeders, some tunnels, or other toys my cats enjoy. I also place a sign on the bedroom door requesting that visitors not enter there because my cats are inside.
A word of caution: with all the partying, shopping, visiting, and other hectic activity at holiday time, don’t neglect kitty. Cats are creatures of habit and rely on the comforting familiarity of their normal activities. Don’t neglect regular playtime schedules, grooming, feeding, litter box cleaning, and other routines.

Thanksgiving

Food, food, and more food. Everywhere you look there’s food. The turkey, stuffing, creamed onions, candied yams, wine, pumpkin pie—all of it needs to be kept away from your kitten. Read the previous section on Christmas for why it’s important to keep kitty away from this stuff.
If your adult cat is on a diet or seems to become possessed in the presence of food, for her sake, don’t give in and let her have snacks. Sometimes people feel their pets deserve extra special food at the holidays. You won’t be doing her any favor and you risk endangering her health.

Halloween

This is the most frightening day of the year if you own a cat. There are people in this world who seek out cats on this day to hurt, torture, and even kill. Protect your cat by not allowing her outdoors at all, starting at least a day or two before Halloween. Even cats who are exclusively outdoor cats should be kept inside during this period to be safe. All cats are at risk but black cats are at the most risk. Most humane shelters won’t adopt black cats out to anyone during the entire month of October. If you’re trying to find a home for your cat or a litter of kittens, don’t do it close to Halloween and don’t give away or sell any black cats during the entire month.
Your front door will be opened repeatedly so keep your cat in another room, away from the hectic activity. With her litter box, food, and water, she can spend quiet time away from all the chaos. If she’s frightened of the doorbell or if she gets upset because the family dog barks at the doorbell, keep her at the far end of the house to help keep her more relaxed.
Although cats don’t generally have a sweet tooth, some cats will try to get into the candy. Chocolate, as you know by now, is lethal to cats. You also have the wrapping around the candy to be aware of.
One more thing to watch out for is costumed children frightening the cat. Sometimes children dressed as monsters or ghosts get so excited that they go around attempting to scare other family members or pets, so keep an eye on your cat.

Fourth of July

Even I find it hard when the neighborhood kids shoot off firecrackers all night long. I must be getting old because I find myself preferring the quieter holidays.
This is not a good day or night for a cat to be outdoors. The noise of the firecrackers can be very frightening. And, as with Halloween, there are some people who take sick pleasure in frightening or hurting animals and might throw firecrackers at your cat. Even if a firecracker isn’t thrown directly at the animal, the noise can cause her to bolt in panic and she could run right into the road—and an oncoming car.
Keep your cat indoors and play music or turn on the TV. Engage in a play session, and everyone will get through this safely.

Birthdays

Balloons, ribbons, and lighted candles are the three major safety hazards. If you’re having a birthday party, kitty will also have to contend with noisemakers, lots of activity, and the possibility of getting stepped on, grabbed, or petted without her consent. Find a safe room for your cat to wait out the party.
Birthday cake, candy, and any other goodies should also be kept out of the cat’s reach. If you’re hosting a children’s party, there’s a very good chance that some cake or candy will end up on the floor, so it’s best to do your cleanup before allowing the cat back into the general part of the house.

“Save Our Pet”

Despite all your precautions, emergencies and unexpected situations do arise—and you may not even be home to help your cat. Have a visible sign to alert authorities that there’s a pet (or pets) inside your house should an emergency, such as a house fire, occur while you’re away. Many companies make window or door sticks for this very purpose. Or you can get a sign on a post to stick in the ground. Put the sign near the front of the yard and away from the house to make it easily visible for authorities, rescue workers, or neighbors.
Make sure there’s a place on the sign for you to indicate what kind of pet you have and how many.

What If Something Happens to You?

I know it’s weird; it’s not something any of us like to think about. Unfortunately, though, it may happen. What if you have to be hospitalized? What if you’re no longer able to care for your cat? If you live alone, this is a very important consideration and one worth being well prepared for. In Chapter 17, which is primarily about coping with the loss of a cat, there’s a section on how to make sure your cat is provided for in your will.