4
The Doctor Is In
The Other Most Important Person in Your Cat’s Life and How to Tell If Your Cat Is Sick
No matter where you got your cat, he’s going to need veterinary care. Whether purchased or rescued, he’ll need to be monitored throughout his life.
Your relationship with your veterinarian is more than just a yearly visit for vaccinations. Together, you and the veterinarian are responsible for keeping your cat healthy. The veterinarian will depend on you to notice changes in your cat and bring them to his/her attention immediately. Your observations of your cat will be valuable information that aids your veterinarian in making a diagnosis.
Beginning the Search
Step One
Take some time to think about what qualities you’re looking for in a veterinarian and what services matter most to you. Would you prefer a large, multidoctor practice or a small, one-doctor clinic? Do you want a veterinarian whose practice is limited to cats? There are numerous veterinarians around the country who are board-certified feline practitioners.
You’ll want to know if the veterinarian provides after-hours care or if there is an animal emergency clinic in your area. Animals have a knack for getting sick on holidays or after everyone has closed up for the night, so having emergency care available is a must.
WHAT YOUR VETERINARIAN CAN PROVIDE
• preventative medical care throughout the life of your cat
• nutritional guidance
• answers to care, behavior, and training questions
• emergency medical care (maybe through an emergency clinic)
• access to information on groundbreaking medical care
• information regarding other petrelated services (such as pet sitters)
• lost and found resources
• bathing/grooming services (optional)
• boarding services (optional)
• emotional support during a feline health crisis
• long-term care of ongoing medical conditions
• referrals to veterinary specialists such as veterinary ophthalmologists, dermatologists, and behaviorists
You may prefer a veterinarian who personally owns cats. Although that shouldn’t keep you away from one who doesn’t, you may feel you can relate better to a cat owner.
Do you want a young doctor recently out of veterinary school or an older one? Finally, although it won’t have any effect on ability, you may have a preference concerning gender.
Step Two
Ask friends and neighbors you think take particularly good care of their pets for their recommendations. Don’t just ask for names, ask your friends what specifically they like or don’t like about their veterinarian.
Check out Web sites that offer reviews as well.
Step Three
Once you’ve accumulated some names, narrow down the list to the two or three who seem to be the most likely candidates. If a friend gave you a name of a great veterinarian who’s on the other side of town, that may rule him/her out.
Next, you’ll need to visit the clinic to view the facilities and meet the veterinarian. I suggest that you call ahead to let them know you’re coming, so someone will be available to give you a tour. When you get to the clinic, begin your assessment from the moment you walk in the door. How does the clinic smell? Does it look clean? The receptionist who greets you should be friendly and knowledgeable. As you take your tour of the hospital, pay attention to how the staff interacts with each other. I’ve toured hospitals in which I’ve heard bickering between technicians and even foul language being used toward the animals. Keep your eyes and ears open. As you walk past the cages, notice how they’re kept. Are they clean and are messes taken care of as soon as possible? One thing I always check for is if the surgery patients are given towels or blankets to keep them warm or if they’re just left to shiver on the few sheets of newspaper that line the bottom of the cage.
When you meet the veterinarian, keep in mind that he or she may be very busy with patients (another reason why it’s always a good idea to call ahead) and won’t have time for a long chat. Within a few minutes you should, however, get an idea of how well he or she communicates and if you feel comfortable.
Your relationship with your veterinarian is very important, as you’re both responsible for the health of your cat. If after the first few times you visit the veterinarian with your kitten you don’t feel comfortable, change veterinarians. Just ask for a copy of your cat’s records and go somewhere else. Don’t stick with a veterinarian you’re not happy with, but before making the decision to switch, think about whether or not your expectations are unrealistic. For example, some clients call the veterinarian several times a day and expect to be put through immediately, not taking into consideration that the doctor may be in surgery or with another patient. Additionally, give the veterinarian the opportunity to correct whatever is bothering you. If you then decide that your expectations are realistic, and you’ve either talked with the veterinarian or given the staff an opportunity to correct the situation to no avail, then just move on.
Transporting Your Kitten to the Veterinarian
Even though he may be just a tiny little thing right now and easy to hold in your arms, he’ll feel more secure in a carrier. Transport him in a carrier to eliminate the chance that he could suddenly become frightened and leap right out of your arms. Begin getting him acquainted with the carrier at an early age. It’ll be much easier now than later. It will also protect him in the waiting room, where other patients may not necessarily be as polite as he is. For all of the specifics on carriers, see Chapter 14.
What to Expect at Your Kitten’s First Veterinary Visit
No matter where you got your kitten or what you were told about how healthy he is, he must be taken to the veterinarian. If you already have other cats at home it is especially important that the kitten be taken to the veterinarian before you expose your cats to him.
When you bring your kitten in, you should also bring along a sample of his feces, so the doctor can test it for internal parasites. Almost all kittens who haven’t already been dewormed have internal parasites, so your veterinarian will begin a series of dewormings. The fecal check will help the veterinarian detect other internal parasites that aren’t part of the normal deworming schedule.
If you’re going to bring a fecal sample in, try to collect the freshest one. If your kitten defecates in the morning but your appointment isn’t until later in the day, wrap the sample in a plastic bag or container and put it in the refrigerator. Write yourself a note and leave it on the front door so you won’t leave for the clinic without taking the sample. If the kitten doesn’t cooperate by providing you with a sample or you object to keeping the sample in the refrigerator, don’t panic—the veterinarian can get a sample from him in the office. It’s much less traumatic for the kitty, though, if he volunteers one peacefully at home in his litter box.
If the kitten hasn’t been tested for feline leukemia (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), or if there’s any question regarding the reliability of any previous tests, he should be tested. This involves taking a very small blood sample (for more information on FeLV and FIV, refer to the Medical Appendix). This is usually done by a technician before the veterinarian examines the kitten.
While the blood and stool tests are being completed in the lab, the veterinarian begins the kitten’s physical exam. The kitten will have already been weighed and had his temperature taken by a technician. The veterinarian begins at the kitty’s head and works his or her way to the tip of the tail. The veterinarian will check inside the ears with an otoscope (a conical light). If ear mites are suspected, the veterinarian will swab a sample of exudate from the ears for microscopic examination. Next, the kitten’s eyes and nose will be checked for any signs of discharge. The veterinarian will open the mouth and make sure all looks normal in there as well.
The doctor will run his or her hands along the kitten’s body, feeling for anything out of the ordinary, then he or she will use a stethoscope to listen to the kitten’s heart and lungs.
Your veterinarian will also go over the vaccination schedule needed and will cover the basics of kitten nutrition, flea control, grooming, and training.
Your kitten will then begin to receive his vaccinations. You will have to bring him back for a return visit in three to four weeks, so he can get the next series. Your veterinarian will instruct you on how many visits will be needed and which vaccines should be administered, based upon your cat’s age and risk factors.
Some vaccines, depending on the type and the manufacturer, are combined. Some are even administered intranasally rather than via injection. Your veterinarian will explain specifically about each vaccination as it is being drawn up for administration. The veterinarian should also explain any potential side effects, what to watch for (such as breathing difficulty), and how your kitten may react over the next twenty-four hours.
If internal parasites were detected from the stool sample, your kitten will be given a dewormer. Depending on the type of dewormer, a second dose may be needed on the kitten’s return visit. If ear mites were found, you’ll be given medication to administer. Refer to the Medical Appendix for more information on ear mites.
Your first visit with the veterinarian is the time to get a demonstration on how to trim your kitten’s nails. If there’s anything else you feel unsure about, such as how to give any prescribed medication, how much to feed, how to groom your kitten, ask it now. Have your veterinarian explain anything you’re not sure about. Your veterinarian’s main concern is starting you and your kitten off right.
Less Stressful Veterinary Visits
Every time your kitten visits the veterinarian is an opportunity to form positive associations with the experience. If you want a cat who doesn’t turn into a clawbaring, whirling dervish then start from the very beginning training him to accept and, dare I say it, actually not mind being at the clinic.
Your kitten is learning with each experience. Training is occurring all the time. Whether that training is beneficial or counterproductive is up to you.
Behavior modification associated with the veterinary clinic is easy to implement. By the way, this technique isn’t just reserved for kittens. You can retrain your veterinarian-hating adult cat as well.
Start by bringing treats with you or a small supply of the kitten’s food. When you arrive at the clinic, ask the receptionist to offer your kitten a treat or two (of course, offering food will be dependent on the specific reason for the clinic visit). If your kitten is comfortable, remove him from the carrier so the receptionist or other staff member can pet and/or hold him.
While sitting in the waiting room, offer your kitten a treat. If he’s nervous you can cover the carrier with a towel or even a sheet of newspaper.
Once inside the exam room, ask the technician to take a little time before checking vitals such as weight and temperature. The technician can offer the kitten a treat, pet him, or even hold him (if the kitten enjoys being held). If the kitten doesn’t accept the treat from the technician’s hand it can be tossed on the exam table for him to retrieve. If using wet food, place a small amount on a tongue depressor.
One way to make the exam room less scary is to limit the cat’s exposure to the cold, hard exam table. If the carrier you use is the plastic kennel type, unfasten the top so kitty can remain in the bottom part. If you’ve placed a towel in the bottom of the carrier it will provide even more security. One of the worst things you or the technician can do is to reach into the carrier and yank the cat out. It’s far less stressful for the kitten if he feels some sense of familiarity.
When it comes time for the technician to begin taking vitals you can continue to offer treats. For a very nervous kitty try offering a small amount of canned food or favorite treat. Pack some canned food in a small container and bring a small, soft-tipped baby spoon, or use a tongue depressor. This way, you can distract the kitten during uncomfortable procedures such as temperature-taking.
Once the veterinarian comes in, he or she should greet the cat before beginning an exam or procedure. If vaccinations or any other uncomfortable procedure is going to be performed, use the distraction technique here as well. With many cats, less restraint will keep the cat calmer. It makes me sad when I see technicians, veterinarians, or cat owners automatically assume that a cat has to be scruffed and restrained for a procedure.
You may find that placing a dab of canned food on the exam table is enough to distract the kitten while vaccinations are being administered. Many times the kitty isn’t even aware that a needle is being inserted.
Since the veterinary clinic is a place your kitten will have to go many times throughout his life, invest the time now in creating positive associations. The more often he goes and receives petting, treats, and minimal restraint, the less stressful future visits will be. Even go so far as to take your kitten there just to be petted by the staff and offered treats. The more he is exposed to the sights, sounds, and scents of the clinic at an early age, the less stressful it will be for everyone.
General Kitten Vaccination Schedule
Your veterinarian will customize specific vaccine protocols according to your cat’s risk factors, including age, health status, potential for exposure to a particular disease, and geographical location. There are core vaccines recommended for all cats and there are noncore vaccines recommended for higher-risk cats. There are also noncore vaccines that may not be recommended due to questions of efficacy.
Your kitten will also get a series of dewormings which are given orally.
Some Common Diagnostic Procedures
X-Ray
X-rays taken of your cat are the same kind taken of humans and used for the same diagnoses of fractures, obstructions, tumors, malformations, etc. Cats are usually tolerant of the procedure, but if yours is in pain because of a fracture or other injury, he’ll be sedated beforehand.
Blood Tests
There are numerous tests performed on the blood to help diagnose a vast array of disorders. Blood tests can help determine how well a particular organ is functioning, if there’s a disease present, the number of red and white cells, etc. Some tests can be performed at the veterinarian’s office but many are sent to an outside diagnostic lab for processing.
If only a small amount of blood is needed, it can be drawn from the vein in the cat’s foreleg. Larger amounts of blood are drawn from the jugular vein in the neck.
Ultrasound
Ultrasound uses high-frequency soundwaves to create a picture of the cat’s internal organs. It’s a painless and noninvasive procedure and can provide the veterinarian with valuable information concerning the shape, size, and condition of particular organs.
Electrocardiogram
Contact leads are attached to the cat’s skin so the ECG machine can record the heart’s electrical functions to determine any abnormalities. It’s not painful and cats are usually very tolerant of the procedure.
Urinalysis
Urine samples are used to help diagnose urinary tract disorders, diabetes, and kidney disease, and to determine the function of other organs.
A urine sample can be obtained by your veterinarian using a needle and syringe (cystocentesis). The needle is injected into the bladder and the urine is drawn up into the syringe. This is the method used when a sterile sample is needed so no outside bacteria contaminate the urine. Urine can also be collected through catheterization, manual expression of the bladder (done under sedation), catching the urine in a container as the cat voids, or through the use of nonabsorbent litter.
Biopsy
A sample of tissue is taken and sent to a diagnostic lab for analysis. Biopsies are used to identify growths, determine if a growth is benign (noncancerous) or malignant (cancerous), and also to confirm that all of the cancer has been removed (this is done by examination of the edges of the tumor).
Fecal Examination
The color, consistency, and odor of the cat’s feces provide the veterinarian with valuable clues regarding the cat’s health. The veterinarian or technician will check a fecal sample to make sure it looks normal and check for signs of blood or mucous.
As a routine part of the examination, a small sample is also mixed with a special solution and examined under the microscope in order to check for signs of parasites.
Some parasites such as giardia are very difficult to detect and your veterinarian may request stool samples from your cat over a period of several days if infection is suspected.
Which Way to the Emergency Clinic?
If there’s an animal emergency clinic in your town, it’s wise to be familiar with its location before an emergency hits. That way you won’t be driving through unfamiliar streets in the middle of the night with a sick or injured cat. GPS is wonderful but don’t depend on it. Know where your nearest emergency clinic is located.
When Should Your Kitten Be Spayed or Neutered?
These two terms refer to the sterilization procedure—spaying for females and neutering for males.
Some shelters perform the procedure on kittens as young as eight weeks. The most common time to spay a female is before she goes into her first heat—at about six months of age. Males are usually neutered somewhere between six to eight months old.
If you’re unsure about whether to have your kitty spayed or neutered, let me assure you the benefits of doing so go beyond helping to cut down on pet overpopulation. There are far more behavioral problems with intact pets. Intact cats are more territorial, tend to roam and fight, the females will go into heat, and if you haven’t already experienced the scent of tomcat urine, be prepared, because intact males spray. From a medical standpoint, intact cats are at a higher risk of certain cancers than spayed and neutered pets. If you have any questions, discuss it with your veterinarian.
Health Insurance for Your Cat
Money. It can be the deciding factor for whether a pet lives or dies. When you first get a kitten, the last thing you want to think about is what horrendous diseases, injuries, or disorders this very healthy animal could be subject to down the road.
Huge strides are continually being made in veterinary medicine. Unfortunately, though, the breakthrough procedure that could now save your cat’s life may be unaffordable for you.
Check with your veterinarian concerning the plans available in your state. When considering insurance plans, do your homework because some are better than others. Keep in mind as well that insurance won’t cover routine visits and vaccinations.
How Do You Know If Your Cat Is Sick?
Your cat depends on you for his health and comfort. Cats don’t really have nine lives, so it’s up to you and your veterinarian to be responsible for his health and welfare.
Become familiar with your cat’s normal routine. Notice how much water he usually drinks. This will be important information because an increase or decrease in water consumption can be a symptom of certain diseases. Are you familiar with your cat’s litter box habits? If so, you may be able to detect diarrhea, constipation, and potential urinary tract problems early. Become familiar with his usual volume of urine or feces, as well as its color.
A regular grooming schedule gives you the opportunity to examine your cat’s body so you’ll be alerted to changes in the norm such as lumps, sores, external parasites, bald patches, rashes, etc. Check your cat’s ears, eyes, teeth, genitals, stomach, under his tail, and even the pads of his paws on a regular basis.
SIGNS TO WATCH FOR
• change in appearance of coat: dull, dry, sparse, bald patches, greasy-looking
• change in normal grooming behavior
• inflamed or irritated skin: any change in normal color or texture
• change in usual behavior: cat who doesn’t play anymore, is lethargic, hides, is nervous, aggressive, irritable
• change in eating habits: increased/ decreased appetite, weight change, difficulty eating
• increased or decreased water consumption
• vomiting: frequency, food vs. liquids, color, volume
• change in urination: urinating outside of litter box, more frequent urination, straining, blood-tinged urine, inability to urinate (this is an absolute emergency), crying during urination, change in urine odor
• change in bowels: eliminating outside of litter box, diarrhea, constipation, mucous-coated stool, unusual color, blood in stool, unusually foul-smelling stool, volume of stool produced
• limping or pain
• weakness
• excessive vocalization, crying, howling
• fever or low body temperature
• sneezing
• coughing
• change in eyes: discharge, film, appearance of nictitating membrane, squinting, enlargement or reduction of pupil size in one or both eyes, pawing at eyes
• discharge from nose (note color and consistency)
• discharge from ears, appearance of exudates, pawing at ears, head shaking
• swelling on any part of the body
• shivering
• lumps on or below the skin surface
• lesions or bruises
• change in breathing: rapid, shallow, labored
• change in appearance of gums: swelling, paleness, blue or gray color, bright red color
• bad breath
• excessive drooling
• strange odor
• neurological changes: seizures, tremors, palsy, etc.
Cats are experts at hiding the fact that they don’t feel well. Sometimes you’ll have to rely on the slightest change in his behavior. When you talk to your veterinarian, provide the following information:
• A description of the problem
• How long the cat has had the problem
• The frequency of the problem
For example, don’t just say, “My cat is vomiting.” The veterinarian needs to know what the vomitus consists of: Food? Liquid? What color is it? Did the vomiting start today? Last night? How often is it happening? Does the cat vomit immediately after meals? Has he thrown up five times today in the space of an hour? An accurate description by the owner provides valuable diagnostic clues to the veterinarian.
How to Take Your Cat’s Temperature
Taking your cat’s temperature may seem close to impossible, but if you do it gently and calmly, both you and your cat will survive the procedure unscathed. You may never need to take your cat’s temperature, but the situation could arise so it’s helpful to know the easiest procedure. If your cat gets very agitated during a veterinary visit, the veterinarian may suggest that you take the temperature at home when the cat is calm.
A cat’s temperature is taken rectally using a rectal thermometer or in the ear with a digital thermometer. Never try to take a cat’s temperature orally. The cat’s natural reflex is to bite down, which will break the thermometer and could cause injury.
If you’re going to take the temperature rectally, it will probably be much easier if you have an assistant. Even the most good-natured cat may react quite uncooperatively to a thermometer, so if help is offered, take it!
Before inserting the thermometer into the rectum, lubricate the tip with a little petroleum jelly or K-Y jelly.
Give the cat time to get used to the procedure by placing him on the table, touching him gently on the back, or holding his tail while offering a treat. Place the treat on the table in front of him. Just a bit of canned food might help the cat stay distracted during the procedure.
Raise the cat’s tail with one hand and gently insert the thermometer one inch into the anal canal. Hold it in place for the time indicated on the instructions that came with the thermometer. If you have trouble inserting the thermometer, lightly scratch or pet your cat at the base of the tail as this sometimes causes a relaxation of the rectal muscles. The thermometer may also slide in more easily if you gently twist it. Be patient and use gentle pressure. Try to keep the cat as calm as possible because if he gets too anxious, it may give you an inaccurate reading.
When you remove the thermometer, wipe it clean with a tissue, read the temperature, then clean the thermometer with alcohol before placing it back in its case, or follow any specific cleaning protocols indicated on the instructions that came with the thermometer.
For a less stressful way to take your cat’s temperature, use an instant-read digital ear thermometer. This thermometer gets inserted just inside the ear.
Which thermometer to use will be based on how your cat reacts.
How to Take a Cat’s Pulse
Feel the inside of the hind leg where it meets the groin for the femoral artery. You can do this with your cat in a standing position. Press your fingers on the artery until you feel the pulse. Count the number of pulsations you feel within a fifteen-second period. Multiply that by four to get the pulse count per minute. The normal rate for an adult cat is 160–180 beats per minute. A kitten’s pulse is much higher (usually around 200).
Respiratory Rate
Observe the movement of the cat’s chest or abdomen. Counting the number of movements that take place in sixty seconds will give you the respiratory rate.
Don’t attempt this if the cat is excited or hot, because the rate will be abnormally high. The average respiratory rate for a cat at rest is about twenty to thirty breaths per minute.
Rapid breathing can indicate pain, shock, dehydration, or disease. Panting is normal if your cat has engaged in strenuous physical activity.
Panting that appears labored or is accompanied by restlessness can indicate a serious medical condition such as heatstroke.
Medicating Your Cat
Pills
Not an easy task to be sure. Some owners would prefer having their teeth drilled by the dentist to giving a pill to their cat. You and your cat can quickly become wrestling opponents as he squirms and wiggles and you turn into a contortionist, trying to unclamp his steel-trap jaws. I’ve witnessed some of the most horrified expressions I’ve ever seen on a person’s face when I worked in an animal hospital, and they were in response to the veterinarian telling the owners, “Give your cat one of these pills every day.”
You may think that the easiest way to pill a cat is to hide it in food but there are several reasons not to do that. First, some pills are coated to protect the contents from being destroyed by stomach acid before they can be absorbed in the intestines. Also, some pills have a strange smell or a bitter taste and your cat may refuse to eat the foods they are in. Cats are very adept at detecting altered food due to their extremely acute sense of smell.
If you really believe your cat will fall for a pill hidden in your special concoction of cream cheese and sardines, check with your veterinarian first to be sure it won’t destroy the pill’s effectiveness. Some pills shouldn’t be given with meals.
Some cats will take pills more easily if they have been disguised in a tasty gel such as Nutri-Cal by Tomlyn.
Catwise Clue
Many tablets can be made into a liquid by a compounding pharmacist. If your cat handles liquids better than pills, your veterinarian should be able to recommend a compounding pharmacist.
Many liquids can also be flavored to increase appeal. Some medications can also be compounded for transdermal application.
One of my favorite ways to administer a pill is in a Greenies Pill Pocket. This is a soft, pliable treat with a slit in it for hiding the dreaded pill. Not every cat will fall for it but many do. Pill Pockets are available at your local pet supply store and online.
If pilling is the only method for you, the best approach is subtlety and speed—with a lot of emphasis on the latter. Don’t make a big production out of it because the more fuss you create, the more worried your cat will be. Just be organized and choose your timing carefully. For instance, if your cat is more receptive to handling when he’s sleepy, then that’s the time to pop the pill.
The procedure: You may prefer to place the cat on a counter so you don’t have to crouch down. Put the palm of your hand over the top of the cat’s head. Tilt the head up slightly. Open his mouth by applying gentle pressure with your thumb on one side and middle finger on the other against the area behind the canine teeth (they’re the ones that look like daggers but don’t let that thought intimidate you). Hold the pill between the thumb and index finger of your free hand, and with the middle finger, press the lower jaw open. Drop the pill on the back of the tongue. Coating the pill with butter will make it easier to swallow (but sometimes harder to release from your fingers). Let go of the cat’s mouth so he can swallow but keep hold of him so he doesn’t escape and spit the pill out. Don’t clamp his mouth shut or he won’t be able to swallow. You can gently massage the throat in a downward motion to help ease the pill down.
After you have administered the pill, observe your cat to make sure it went down and that he doesn’t spit it out. If his tongue comes out to lick his nose or mouth, that’s a sure sign that the pill has been swallowed. If the cat begins coughing, it means the pill may be lodged in the windpipe. Release your hold on him so he can cough it up. If it doesn’t come up, grasp your cat by his hips and turn him upside down to dislodge the pill.
An alternate pilling position is to first kneel on the floor, and then sit back on your heels with your legs open in a V position. Place the cat between your legs, facing away from you. This way, if he tries to back away, he has nowhere to go.
If you find you can’t pill with your fingers or if your cat bites, you can buy a plastic pill gun from your veterinarian or local pet supply store. The pill is grasped on the end of the syringe by plastic fingers. When you push the plunger, the pill gets deposited onto the tongue. I find pill guns more difficult than just using my fingers, but what’s important is getting the pill into the cat without being bitten, so use whatever method works for you.
To acclimate your cat to the process of being pilled with the pill gun, do some sessions where you put moist cat food on the end of the pill gun and let your cat lick it off.
If your cat squirms and scratches, try wrapping him in a towel. If he’s very difficult to handle, enlist the aid of an assistant, although it’s often hard to find a volunteer willing to help pill the family cat.
Once you’ve pilled the cat, it’s important to make sure the pill doesn’t remain lodged in the esophagus in order to avoid potential irritation. Since humans swallow pills with a liquid in order to ensure smooth transit to the stomach, it’s helpful to offer your cat some water, chicken broth, or at the very least, a few laps of moist cat food. If using cat food, make sure the instructions state that it’s safe to give the pill with food.
Liquid Medication
You’ll need a plastic dropper or syringe. Don’t use a glass dropper because it could break if your cat bites down. Don’t use a spoon because it always spills and you won’t get the accurate amount into your cat. Also, using a spoon for liquids that are thick and sticky presents a greater risk of you getting it all over your cat’s fur.
The easiest way to administer liquids is into the cheek pouch (the space between the cheek and the molars). Put the cat on a table or counter, measure the correct amount of liquid into the dropper and place it in the cat’s cheek pouch. Administer in small amounts, allowing the cat to swallow each time. If you try to dispense too much liquid at once, you risk having him inhale the medicine. He may also just let most of it dribble out of his mouth. Keep the cat calm so he doesn’t panic and aspirate the liquid. If someone can assist, he or she can gently hold and stroke the cat while you administer the medication.
If you find it impossible to get liquid medication into your cat, ask your veterinarian whether the liquid can be mixed with food. If it can, use a strongertasting food to disguise the taste. Don’t use a large amount of food because your cat may not eat it all, and as a result won’t get an adequate dose of medicine.
Many liquids can be flavored. Ask your veterinarian about the options.
Powders
Powders can usually be mixed with moist food. If the powder has an unpleasant taste, mix with a strong-tasting food. Ask your veterinarian about the preferred method of administration.
Compounding Medication
Some medications can be formulated into liquids, gels, or chewables and flavored in order to make administering it less stressful to you and tastier for your cat. Popular flavors for compounded medications include chicken, tuna, beef, and malt. The medicine is compounded by a compounding pharmacist. This type of medication is becoming more and more popular and the number of pharmacies offering this option is increasing. Ask your veterinarian if the prescription for your cat can be compounded. If there isn’t a compounding pharmacy in your area and your veterinarian is unsure whether a specific prescription can be compounded (not all can be), an online pharmacy may be able to help you.
Transdermal Medications and Patches
Some oral medications can be reformulated into a transdermal delivery system. This way you’re able to medicate the cat by rubbing a paste or cream on the inner ear tip for absorption into the skin. For cats who are impossible to medicate orally, this method may allow you to administer medication and have the cat think he’s actually just getting a little ear massage.
For transdermal medication you’ll need to wear a finger cot to ensure the entire prescribed dose is delivered to the cat and none is absorbed into your skin. Wash your hands after administering a transdermal medication.
Some pain medications often work well in skin patch form. The pain medication is delivered slowly over time. Patches must be carefully applied to shaved skin in an area where the cat can’t lick or chew it off. Your veterinarian will apply the initial patch.
Injections
There are some medical conditions (such as diabetes) that require the cat to receive injections. If the condition is ongoing, you’ll most likely have to learn to administer these injections yourself. Should this need arise, your veterinarian will give you instructions as well as demonstrations for the correct procedure.
Depending on the medicine, injections are given either subcutaneously (under the skin) or in the muscle. The injections you would most likely have to administer would be subcutaneous.
Ointments/Creams
The easiest way to apply these may be to sit in a chair with the cat in your lap. Begin by first stroking to relax him and then stroke on the ointment. Continue to stroke the cat and try to keep him on your lap (but don’t force him) so the ointment has time to be absorbed and the amount of medicine he’ll lick off once he gets down is decreased. You may find that the cat will fall asleep on your lap and then the medicine gets to do its work without any feline interference. If your cat doesn’t enjoy sitting on your lap, distract him with interactive playtime or a meal to give the medicine more time to absorb.
If licking is sabotaging the healing process, ask your veterinarian about using a special collar that prevents the cat from being able to chew or lick his body. This type of collar goes around the neck and prevents the cat from reaching around. There are several types of collars and some are more comfortable than others.
Eye Medicine
Place the cat on the counter or you can sit with him in your lap or in the V position previously described above.
Administering ointment: make sure your hands are clean and thoroughly rinsed of soap. Tilt your cat’s head slightly upward with one hand. Rest the hand holding the tube against your cat’s cheek so you won’t poke him in the eye if he should make a sudden move. Gently pull the lower lid down and apply the amount in a strip along the lid. Be careful not to touch the eye with the applicator. There’s no need to rub the eyelid; this could cause further irritation. The ointment will automatically spread as the cat blinks.
Administering drops: tilt the cat’s head upward. The hand holding the dropper should rest against the cat’s cheek to prevent injury in the case of sudden movement. Drop the prescribed amount into the eye, being careful not to touch the eye with the applicator. Let go of the cat to allow him to close his eyes.
Never put any drops in your cat’s eyes unless they have been prescribed by your veterinarian.
Ear Medication
Ear medications work best in clean ears so gently swab the ears with a cotton pad or tissue unless it’s sensitive. Your veterinarian will instruct you on whether to use an ear cleansing solution.
Place the cat on the counter, your lap, or in the V position on the floor. Be sure your hands are clean, then hold the ear and steady the cat’s head. Don’t hold the tip of the ear, hold it at the base, or fold the tip back. Be gentle, because if the ear needs medication, it may also be irritated and sensitive. Put the prescribed amount of medication into the ear. Hold onto the cat’s head gently to keep him from shaking his head immediately. This gives the medication time to travel down the ear canal. If the ear isn’t irritated, you can gently massage the base to distribute the medication. If the medication is for ear mites, don’t massage because the ear is already very irritated.
One tip: don’t wear your best clothes when administering ear medication because your cat won’t realize that shaking his head (which all cats do after you put medicine in their ears) will splatter the antibiotic ointment all over your favorite shirt.
Nursing an Ill Cat
Taking care of an ill cat at home is a big responsibility. Although your cat may prefer the comfort of his own familiar surroundings over the unfamiliarity of being in a hospital, make sure you’re confident about your abilities and comfortable with all of the instructions given to you by the veterinarian. If you have questions or are unsure about a particular procedure, ask for a demonstration before attempting to do something on your own.
The Room
The cat should be placed in a peaceful, quiet room. This is especially important in busy households where there are children or other pets.
The room should be warm enough and free of drafts, so the cat doesn’t get chilled. If you have an air purifier, this is a perfect time to use it.
Set up a low-sided litter box near the cat so he won’t have far to walk. If he’s unable to get up, you may have to assist him by placing him in the box and providing support.
The Bed
Provide a comfortable bed, covered in towels, so you can keep it clean in case he has accidents. Keep the bed clean and dry and change the towels as soon as needed. Orthopedic beds are available at pet supply stores and online. These beds allow for air circulation and can make a cat much more comfortable. If you can’t find one, buy an egg crate foam bed covering, cut a good-sized piece, and cover it with towels.
If your cat seems chilled, there are heated pet beds available in all shapes and configurations. Some automatically go back to normal room temperature when the cat’s body weight isn’t on it. If using a heated bed, keep another unheated bed nearby as well, so the cat has the choice of which to use.
Food
Your cat may not have much of an appetite. He may prefer several smaller meals. Just make sure he’s getting enough nutrition. If he’s not on a special diet you might have success using a strong-smelling food, or warming it slightly. Your veterinarian may also prescribe a highly palatable convalescence formula food. If he’s unable to keep food down the cat may also be prescribed an antinausea medication.
If using baby food, make sure it’s a brand that doesn’t contain onion powder.
If your cat won’t eat any food, no matter what you’ve tried, your veterinarian may instruct you to syringe-feed. Don’t do this unless advised by your veterinarian. If you’re instructed to syringe-feed, your veterinarian will prescribe a very smooth, liquid-type food. You’ll be instructed on how much to feed and how often, based on your cat’s specific needs.
If your cat isn’t drinking enough water, your veterinarian may instruct you to administer it orally with a syringe. Since a cat can easily aspirate water into his lungs, mix the water with a little cat food or chicken broth so he’ll be able to taste something. Giving water by syringe can be very dangerous, so do it in small amounts, giving him adequate time to swallow and rest. Don’t give water by syringe unless specifically instructed to do so by your veterinarian. Often, as long as the cat will eat moist food, the high water content of that diet will be adequate.
Grooming
An ill cat often isn’t up to maintaining his normally high standards of hygiene. If he vomits or is being syringe-fed, has diarrhea, or urinates in his bed, his coat and skin will need extra attention.
If you’re syringe-feeding him, there’s a good chance that a significant amount of food will spill onto his chin and down his neck. To reduce the mess, put a small towel over his cheek to create a bib to keep his coat clean. Use a warm, moist washcloth to clean his face immediately after you’ve finished feeding. Don’t allow food or medicine to dry on his fur.
If your cat has urinated on himself or has diarrhea, clean him up immediately to prevent the skin from being scaled by urine or irritated by diarrhea. If the cat has chronic urinary or bowel problems, the hair around the anus and genitals may need to be clipped short to help make cleaning easier.
Gently brush your ailing cat regularly to keep his skin and coat healthy. If you have a long-haired cat, you’ll have to brush a little every day to prevent mats. If your cat can’t move, be sure and turn him occasionally to allow circulation to the skin and prevent sores from developing.
Loneliness and Depression
Keep your little patient’s spirits up by spending time with him. If he doesn’t enjoy being petted or touched, you can sit with him, providing comfort just by your presence. Spend some time reading a book or working on your laptop in the same room as your cat.
When I worked in an animal hospital, one of the most important recovery aids for the animals was being comforted and touched as they lay scared, confused, and hurting in their cages. I petted heads, scratched under chins, and kissed noses. I held the ones who wanted it and for those who viewed me with suspicion, I tried to comfort with a soothing tone of voice.
If other pets or family members provide a sense of comfort for the patient, then allow them to have access to him. But keep everyone calm and quiet. If there’s any tension in your multipet household or if your other pets become nervous or aggressive around the sick cat, keep him separated from the family while he recovers. The patient doesn’t need any additional stress.
Hospitalization and Surgery (What to Expect)
The following descriptions of anesthesia and surgical procedures are very general outlines. Every veterinarian has different protocols based on patient age, surgery to be performed, length of procedure, even personal preference.
In most cases a presurgery evaluation will be conducted. This evaluation involves diagnostic tests to make sure there are no underlying conditions that could pose an added risk to your anesthetized cat. Generally the tests may include a physical exam, ECG, complete blood workup, and X-rays. Preanesthetic lab work helps to evaluate such things as kidney and liver function. This doesn’t guarantee anesthesia will be safe, but it can help screen for underlying problems that could interfere with the anesthesia or surgical recovery.
The Night Before
The cat will need to have an empty stomach on the morning of the surgery, so you’ll be instructed to withhold food after midnight. Your veterinarian will also instruct you as to whether water must be withheld as well.
If your cat is on medication, in most cases you’ll continue to give him his usual p.m. dosage but always check with your veterinarian to be sure and to find out if you should administer his a.m. dose the morning of the surgery.
Hospital Admission
You’ll bring your cat to the hospital first thing in the morning. At that time you’ll be given consent forms to read and sign. The consent forms confirm that you give permission for the doctor to administer an anesthetic to your cat and perform the scheduled procedure.
Most hospitals have a section on the consent form regarding additional pain medication. Because it could be an added expense, they may require your permission to administer any additional medication. Be sure you give your permission for this because many cats (like many people) have varying thresholds of pain. You want your cat to be as comfortable as possible.
Premed
Once your cat has been admitted, he’ll be examined by the veterinarian and may be given a “premed.” This is an injection which will contain one or more mild sedatives to help him relax. These sedatives not only relieve some of your cat’s anxiety but serve to reduce the amount of general anesthetic needed.
Anesthesia
After the premed has taken effect, your cat will be brought to the surgical prep area. A small strip of hair on the foreleg will be shaved and the leg will be cleaned. An anesthetic will be injected into the vein of the leg. Immediately, the cat will become unconscious.
An endotracheal tube is then placed in the cat’s windpipe. Once it’s in place, it’s connected by another tube to the anesthesia machine. The anesthetic, along with oxygen, keeps your cat at the correct degree of unconsciousness. The level of anesthetic is monitored, as well as your cat’s vital signs during the entire procedure.
Surgical Prep
The area of the cat’s body to be operated on will be prepared for surgery. The surgical nurse will clip the hair and clean the skin with a surgical antibacterial scrub.
In the meantime, the veterinarian prepares him/herself by scrubbing with a surgical antibacterial soap. He/she will wear a sterile surgical gown, cap, eye protection, and of course, gloves. Surgical nurses will prepare themselves in the same way.
Surgery
A sterile surgical pack containing the instruments needed for the procedure is opened. Additional equipment, if and as needed, will also be opened from sterile packs.
Before beginning the procedure, the veterinarians or surgical nurse will cover the cat with a sterile surgical drape. This drape has an opening positioned over the site where the incision will be made.
Post-Op Recovery
After the cat is disconnected from the anesthesia machine, he is taken to the recovery area. Here he’s monitored by the staff until he wakes. Because the body temperature lowers under an anesthetic, the cat is usually placed on a heated pad.
Additional pain medication is administered if needed.
Hospital Discharge
Depending upon the surgery, you may be able to pick up your cat later the same day or the following morning. Don’t be in too much of a rush to bring your cat home, though, if the veterinarian recommends that he remain hospitalized overnight. The first twenty-four hours after surgery are usually when any potential complications arise. Follow your veterinarian’s suggestions. If you want to visit your cat, ask your veterinarian if he or she feels that would be all right.
You’ll be given instructions for any at-home care. You’ll also be told when to return for a follow-up examination or to have sutures removed.
Follow all instructions to the letter and remember, even though your cat may want to go back to his normal routine, you have to make sure he has adequate rest and recovery time. If he has sutures, check them regularly to be sure that he hasn’t chewed on them. Watch for signs of drainage, swelling, or infection. Call your veterinarian right away if something doesn’t look right.
A cat recovering from surgery needs plenty of rest and shouldn’t go outdoors. If he’s on medication (especially pain medication), his reflexes may be sluggish and his sense of balance may be compromised, so be careful that he doesn’t attempt to do something such as jump to a place from which he might fall. Keep him in a safe area and be sure he gets all the prescribed medication as directed by your veterinarian.
Before you leave the veterinarian’s office, be certain that you’re comfortable with whatever medication procedures you’ll need to perform. If you’re unsure of things, you may tend to be nervous during administration and your cat will pick up on this. If you’re calm and confident it will help your kitty stay calm. If there is any administration of medication or at-home nursing care that you feel unable to take care of, inquire about at-home visits by one of the veterinary staff. Very often a veterinary technician will make a house call for an additional fee. The most important thing is your cat’s recovery, so don’t be shy about asking for help if you don’t feel you can handle it by yourself.
If your cat will be on pain medication, your veterinarian may prescribe a skin patch for a gradual transdermal delivery through the skin.