5

House Rules

Basic Training

 

 

 

 

Training. What a misunderstood word. For many owners, the very word conjures up an image of a behavioral tug-of-war between owner and pet. I want you to rethink your definition of the word training to include your responsibility to understand what your cat is actually telling you by her behavior. Also, training means communicating with your cat in a language she understands. Stop looking at her as a pet in need of training and get inside her head. How can you combine your training expectations as an owner with her daily needs as a cat? Get on her level physically, emotionally, and mentally in order to map out an effective training plan.

Training a cat correctly not only makes her a pleasure to be around, but you’ll also realize that you can have nice furniture without worrying about it being damaged. You won’t have to battle constantly to make her stay off the counter and you’ll know that she’ll come whenever you call her, won’t attack the guests, and will be a wonderful companion.

There are some people who think cats come pretrained, meaning they will already know how to use the litter box, will know not to scratch the furniture, and will know not to wander off if they’re let outside. I feel sorry for those owners, but I especially feel sorry for those cats because they are the ones that end up abandoned, at the shelter, or dead.

In order to successfully train a cat, you have to understand how a cat communicates and what constitutes normal cat behavior. This is where getting on her level and seeing things as she does will offer valuable insight. For instance, if your cat is scratching the furniture, although it may make you angry, for her it’s a very normal behavior. Because scratching is a natural feline behavior, you can spend your days yelling at your cat and chasing her around the house, but she’ll never understand why she’s being punished. All you’ll have accomplished is that you’ve made your cat afraid of you. The better way to train her is to first understand that scratching is natural, and then provide her with an acceptable scratching surface (i.e., a good scratching post or pad).

Too many times we confuse training with discipline or dominance. So, after attempting to set our cats straight about who’s boss, we come to the conclusion that they’re just untrainable. The cat is a social creature (this comment still surprises many people) but she’s also a hunter. She’s territorial and often hunts alone because she hunts small prey. As a hunter, she’s always tuned in to her environment. While your dog is sitting at your feet, anxiously watching you for signals, your cat is sitting next to you, keeping an eye on her territory and watching for potential prey. If you want to succeed in training your cat, learn her language and what makes her tick instead of insisting that she bend to your demands.

Your think like a cat training method is really a simple concept. Your cat has a valid reason for engaging in specific behaviors. Animals are very smart. They don’t repeat behaviors unless they serve a purpose. Even though you may not understand or like the behavior doesn’t mean it isn’t serving a necessary purpose for the animal. So the key to your think like a cat approach is to:

1. Figure out what purpose the behavior serves. What’s the “payoff” for the cat?

2. Offer an alternative behavior that is of equal or increased value.

3. Reward the cat for choosing the alternative.

Where owners get tripped up is in assuming the cat’s behavior is motivated by anger, spite, or stupidity.

The Litter Box

The use or nonuse of the litter box can be a deal-breaker in a cat/owner relationship. Too many owners are under the assumption that the cat will automatically use the box no matter what—even if we never clean it, put it in the wrong place, or buy a brand of litter that the cat finds objectionable.

In order to avoid litter box problems you have to understand what’s important to a cat when it comes to this part of her life. Your “Litter Box Survival Guide” can be found in Chapter 8.

The Dreaded Scratching Dilemma

No, you don’t have to declaw your cat. No, your furniture doesn’t have to end up shredded—but yes, you do have to have a scratching post. Not all posts are created equal, though. Once again, it comes down to what we think our cats need versus what they know they need. In Chapter 9, I’ll show you how to save your furniture and create a scratching post that’ll actually get used! What a concept.

Clicker Training

This is surprisingly easy and can serve a dual purpose. It is not only used to train your cat to do tricks, it’s also a tool for behavior modification.

With clicker training you use a small device that makes a cricket-type sound when depressed by your finger or thumb. Clicker training works well because it “tells” the cat the precise behavior that is being rewarded. Since most cats are pretty food-motivated, you immediately follow a click with a food reward. The clicker is a sound not normally heard in the cat’s environment and so works well as an audible marker. Clickers are available at pet supply stores and online.

Why do we use a clicker instead of just tossing a treat? Because the clicker is more immediate. You want the cat to know that the very behavior performed at that second was exactly what you wanted. You can click faster than you can toss the treat. By the time you toss a treat to the cat she won’t know what behavior is being rewarded.

How to Start Clicker Training

The first step is to teach the cat to associate the clicker with a payoff. She needs to learn that the sound of the clicker means a treat is coming. Break up the treats into small pieces so you won’t overfeed. Click the clicker and then toss a treat. Before doing it again, wait for the cat to look at you before repeating the sequence. This helps the cat associate YOU with the reward. Do it about ten times or however long the cat remains interested and engaged. If your cat is on a restricted or prescription diet, take a small portion of her regular amount and use that as her food reward. If you use wet food, put a tiny amount on the edge of a soft baby spoon or on a tongue depressor.

The first few sessions should be brief. If your cat appears disinterested it may be because she isn’t hungry or the treat isn’t motivating enough. If you free-feed you may need to switch to scheduled meals so you can use the food for training purposes.

Rewarding a Behavior

Believe it or not, within a couple of minutes you can probably teach your cat her first trick. “Sit” is an easy one to start with. Get down on the floor in front of your cat. Hold a treat or a small amount of wet food on a spoon just slightly up and over her head. As her eyes follow the treat her back end will naturally go down into a sit. Don’t hold the treat too high or she’ll reach up. As soon as her hindquarters touch the floor, click and give her the treat. Repeat this exercise multiple times. Once she consistently has the behavior down you can then add the verbal cue of “sit.” Soon you’ll be able to phase out the food lure when she responds to the verbal request instead of just watching the hand with the food.

There are many behaviors you can teach your cat: down, roll over, high five, circle, come, and so many more. The key is to be consistent and make the training sessions fun. If you get frustrated or the cat is not in the mood for training then it won’t be successful.

Once a behavior is learned and performed consistently, you can begin giving intermittent food rewards. You won’t have to keep a supply of cat treats in your pocket at all times. You can alternate food rewards with praise, petting, or a toy.

Timing

It can be easy to get carried away when you see your cat doing something positive and start clicking excessively. You can also easily miss the behavior and click too late. Timing is important because the cat is associating the sound of the clicker with what she is doing at that exact moment. If you click too late she may have already moved on to another behavior. If you click too many times she won’t know what the heck she’s being rewarded for. Click only once and be precise.

The Benefits of Clicker Training

You may be wondering why you’d need to teach your cat to roll over or give you a high five. Your cat doesn’t actually need to know those specific behaviors but by working on at least a couple with your cat you both develop the skill of clicker training. Your cat starts learning in a positive, rewarding way. Good behavior has good consequences. Unwanted behavior doesn’t have good consequences. Your cat is smart—she’ll start focusing on the behaviors that have the good consequences.

Clicker training also helps the cat feel as if she has more control over her environment, which can help relax her so she’ll be less inclined to exhibit negative behaviors. Clicker training is also a wonderful way to strengthen the bond between cat and owner.

You can use the clicker to train your cat to perform specific “cued” behaviors such as sit or down, but you can also use it to reinforce un-cued behaviors such as when kitty stops giving a direct stare or walks by a spot where, in the past, she has always inappropriately urinated, or when she walks into the room when company is present instead of hiding under the bed. Clicker training gives you a whole new way to communicate with your cat. You can click and reward for subtle behaviors that let the cat know time and time again that good behavior results in good consequences.

As you go through this book you’ll see I mention opportunities to use clicker training, but the decision to use it is up to you. You can do behavior modification without the clicker or you can opt to incorporate it.

Teaching Your Cat to Respond to His Name

This is actually a very important behavior to teach. When you need to locate your cat before you leave the house or you need to get your cat away from something dangerous, being able to depend on her to come when called can be a lifesaver.

I have three rules about teaching a cat her name. They are:

Rule #1: Pick an easy name for your kitten to recognize. Long names such as “Cinderella’s Prince Charming, Frederick the Fabulous” aren’t a good idea. I didn’t make that name up. I know a cat with that name and he wouldn’t answer when called. It wasn’t until his owner started referring to him as “Fred” that he began to respond to her when she called.

Rule #2: Don’t use ten different nicknames for your kitten and expect her to respond to them. Stick to one name so she learns to make the association.

Rule #3: Never call your kitty’s name in anger. If you call her by her name and then proceed to punish her when she comes, she’ll never want to come to you again.

Begin teaching your cat to associate positive things with her name. While you’re petting her, repeat her name over and over in a soothing, quiet, friendly voice. As you’re preparing dinner, call her name. Hand-feed her a little before you fill her bowl. Say her name repeatedly as you give her a kibble. After a few repetitions of this exercise, put her food in the bowl and let her eat. Don’t overdo the sessions. Keep them short and positive.

In between meals, take a few pieces of broken up treats and practice calling her name multiple times a day. When she comes, give her a treat. If you are clicker training, you can add the verbal cue of “come” after saying her name. Click as soon as she comes to you and then immediately offer the treat.

Work up to calling her from another room. Once she has learned her name you can offer treats intermittently, but always offer praise when she has responded. Even when you are no longer giving food rewards for coming when called, she should always know that something good awaits her.

Once kitty has learned to respond to her name, don’t forget Rule #3. Never call her in anger. It can be easy to abuse that rule if you come across something she has damaged or a urine spot on the carpet. Resist the urge to call her to you for punishment. The price you’ll pay for potentially damaging the trust bond between the two of you won’t be worth it. Punishment is counterproductive and inhumane anyway.

How to Pick Up and Handle Your Cat

When your cat becomes an adult, it will prove to be very valuable if you have spent the time when she was a kitten getting her used to being picked up and handled. Everyone wants a cat whom they can pick up, hold, pet, medicate, and groom without ending up looking like a victim from one of the Friday the 13th movies. The key is to start early. Hold your kitten with two hands, no matter how small she is, to give her a feeling of security. No kitten wants to be carried around with her middle squeezed and her legs dangling in the air.

Get your kitten comfortable with being handled by incorporating gentle touch manipulations into your petting sessions. Place the kitten on your lap and gently handle each paw. Run your fingers down her leg, hold her paw briefly, and then very gently expose her little claws, touching the top of each one. This helps her to become comfortable with having her paws handled so you’ll be able to trim her nails later. Gently touch her ears and look inside. Pet her as you do this and talk soothingly. This prepares her for future ear cleaning and necessary medicating. Offer treats or small food rewards as you touch different parts of her body.

Stroke your kitty along the sides of the mouth (she’ll actually enjoy that) and under her chin (she’ll really enjoy that). Then gently slide your finger inside her lips and massage her gums. This prepares her for having her teeth brushed. Offer a treat. Go back to rubbing her under the chin and down her back, then return to her mouth. Carefully open it by placing one hand over the top of her head and gently supporting her upper jaw while you pull down on the lower jaw with the finger of your other hand. That’s all, make it quick, and then let her close her mouth. Offer a treat. Go back to petting, and then engage in a play session. If you do these exercises on a regular basis, your kitten will grow up to be a cat who is more comfortable with touch.

If you have an adult cat who isn’t used to being held, you’ll have to go very slowly so that she’ll never feel confined or trapped. You may first need to get her comfortable with being petted with one or two strokes, then gradually work up to using slower strokes so your hand stays in contact with her body for longer periods. Clicker training during each step will help your cat make positive associations with your touch. If you are not clicker training offer treats or food rewards.

When you pick up your cat, always use two hands. Don’t grab her by the scruff of the neck and carry her with her hind legs dangling, and never scoop her up with one hand around her middle or she’ll feel as if her chest is being crushed.

The proper way to pick up a cat is by putting one hand on her chest, just behind her front legs, and use the other hand to cradle her hindquarters and hind legs. Bring her in close to you so that she can lean against your chest. Her front paws can rest on your forearm. This method allows her to feel supported, yet not trapped. This method of holding is for when you have her in a safe location such as inside your home.

When you put your cat down, do so gently. Don’t let her leap out of your arms. You don’t want to train her that the only way she can get out of your grasp is to struggle and jump for her life. Let her down before she struggles and she won’t associate being held with confinement. Your responsibility as an owner is to stay very aware, sense the moment she’s getting restless, then immediately place her back down. Initially, you may only be able to hold your cat for a few seconds, but as she gradually realizes that being held is not such a terrible thing, she’ll relax in your arms.

Don’t try to hold your cat in your arms like a baby. She’ll feel trapped because it’s not a natural position for her.

Make sure your cat sees you before you attempt to pick her up. If you startle her by coming up from behind, not only will that make her grow more nervous about being touched but it could also cause you to get scratched.

The other way to hold a cat is the method most often used in veterinary clinics. The following technique is a good way to ensure that the cat doesn’t leap out of your arms. This method is best used for unpredictable cats or if you’re transporting a cat in an unfamiliar environment—such as a veterinary clinic setting. The method involves bracing the cat’s hind end against your side with one arm, so her rear legs are left free below your forearm and against your hip. The hand of the same arm that’s bracing the cat comes up under the chest to gently grasp the forelegs. Place one finger between the forelegs. Your other hand comes over the top of the cat’s head to either gently pet it or offer gentle restraint. This method prevents the cat from wriggling away or leaping out of your arms.

Determining Boundaries

You’ll never have a well-trained cat if you aren’t consistent about what she’s allowed to do and where she’s allowed to do it. You’ll just create confusion and frustration if one family member lets her on the bed but another one doesn’t. Is she going to be allowed on kitchen counters? The dining room table? Only when there’s no food on it? Well, how is she supposed to know the difference?

Sit down with everyone in the family and go over what the boundaries are. It’s not fair to your cat if you’re inconsistent, because she’ll end up in trouble for things that are truly your fault.

Who’s Been Sleeping in My Bed?

Are you someone who would enjoy curling up in bed with a cat at your feet? Do you look forward to sharing your pillow with your cat and haven’t the least concern for shedding hairs? Or do you want your bedroom to be strictly off limits at night? Be consistent right from the beginning about where your cat will sleep, because it’ll be harder to change the rule later.

If you want a kitten to share your bed, no problem. She’d probably like nothing better than to snuggle up with you and enjoy the warmth and companionship. It’s one of the tenderest ways for kittens and their owners to bond. If you’ve adopted an adult cat, she may or may not choose to sleep on your bed. Depending upon her personality and comfort level, she may prefer to stay in the main part of the house or find her own private place to sleep. Some owners, in an attempt to entice a cat to sleep on the bed, will bring her in and close the bedroom door (allowing for litter box access in there) in the hope that she’ll learn to like it. If you bring her into the bedroom and she doesn’t want to sleep on the bed, there may not be another place in the room where she feels comfortable. If you do decide to go this route, at least place a cat tree or window perch in the bedroom as well.

When you buy a cat bed, keep in mind that cats generally prefer elevated places for sleeping and lounging. If you put a cat bed on the floor in the corner, it may be doomed to being forever unused, or used only by your dog. Observe the places, fabrics, and elevations your cat goes to and that will help you create the most comfortable spot for her. Does she like to be hidden? Does she like to be up high? Does she like to sleep on something that has your scent? Pay attention to her preferences to create the ideal sleeping area.

Cats aren’t dogs so don’t try to create matching sleeping arrangements. Your dog may happily sleep on the little bed you fixed up for him in the corner. That same arrangement for your cat will most likely fail because it doesn’t meet her safety requirements.

If you close your cat up in a separate room during the night make sure it’s one she likes being in. It should have more than one sleeping option. If there’s room, put a cat tree in with her. Install one of the window perches made especially for cats so she’ll have something to keep her occupied during the long night. Carefully scrutinize the room to be sure it doesn’t seem like a kitty prison. Create a cozy bed with one of your worn sweatshirts. If the room is chilly, provide the option of a heated pet bed. This is a situation where adopting two kittens works well. If you don’t want the kitten in bed with you, they’ll have each other to cuddle and play with instead of being lonely.

Since some cats are active during the night, you can also set up some fun activities for her to keep her occupied, so she doesn’t sit by your door and meow. Have an arrangement of puzzle feeders, toys, and seek-and-find activities that are reserved just for her nighttime enjoyment.

If your kitty isn’t enjoying the sleeping arrangement you’ve chosen for her, do a little training to help her make a positive association with the spot. You can do some clicker training to reward her whenever she goes up on her cat tree or on her window perch. Eventually you can give the behavior a cue such as “go to bed.”

If your cat scratches on the carpet under the door in an attempt to dig her way out, play with her right before you both go to bed, offer her some food (divide her daily portion so you aren’t overfeeding), and be sure you’ve left her with an interesting array of puzzle feeders and toys. To protect your carpet, place a plastic carpet protector under the door.

Ho Hum, Just Another Boring Day

Misbehavior is often just the result of a cat needing something to do. Cats are hunters and benefit greatly from environmental enrichment.

Start your kitty off right by making sure she has enough in her environment to keep her interested. A kitten can be fascinated by the piece of lint that falls from your clothing, but as she grows it may take more thought on your part to provide sufficient stimulation. A window that overlooks outdoor bird activity may be to your cat’s liking. Maintain a regular schedule of interactive playtime (see Chapter 6) and rotate your cat’s solo toys to keep them from becoming boring. Set up solo activities such as food-dispensing toys, cat tunnels, and other puzzles for kitty to enjoy during the long hours alone. Consider getting a second cat if your work or social schedule leaves your cat home alone all day and then much of the evening.

When you walk in the door at the end of the day, remember that your cat has been alone for hours and will be looking forward to interacting with you. A good balance of stimulation and affection from you will help her become a happy, sociable, and well-behaved cat.

A Place of Her Own

Throughout this book, you’ll notice that I refer to cat trees. A cat tree consists of two or three (sometimes more) perches that sit on top of posts of varying lengths. The posts can be bare wood or covered with bark or rope. They serve many purposes. Cat trees provide comfortable window viewing, serve as sturdy scratching posts, and their elevation allows the cat to feel more secure. Multitiered trees enable two or more cats to enjoy bird watching without having to crowd each other. One of the most important functions of a cat tree, though, is that it’s truly the cat’s furniture and will only have her scent as opposed to other pieces of furniture such as chairs and sofas that will contain unfamiliar scents of guests.

My cats use their cat trees during the day for playing, scratching, bird watching and sleeping. Because they’re on my furniture less, it cuts down on the amount of cat hair on the sofa. A cat tree in the corner of the living room can be enough of a security blanket for a shy or tentative cat to stay in the room with the family instead of going off somewhere.

Think Vertically

Humans live in a horizontal world but cats live in a vertical one. The more you make use of vertical space in your home, the more territory you’ll create for your cat. Even the smallest apartment can be made bigger from a cat’s point of view by making use of wall space. Think along the lines of cat walks, perches, and cozy hideaways and you can turn that wall space into valuable feline real estate. Environmental modifications can be as basic as a few secure perches on the wall to an elaborate elevated cat walk encircling the room. For access to a cat walk you can create a mini stairway or stagger a few perches for easy jumping. For safety, cover the perches and cat walks with a nonslip surface. Also, if you have a multicat household, you should provide access to a cat walk on two ends so one cat will never be trapped up there should another cat approach. Even installing a couple of shelves with cat beds on them can add some vertical security for your cat.

When you look around your environment, don’t limit yourself to elevated areas but also consider lower territory as well. Place a tunnel behind your sofa for fun, playtime, or as a way for a timid cat to navigate around the room. You can make a homemade tunnel by cutting the bottoms out of paper bags and then taping them together. Environmental enrichment doesn’t have to break the budget.

If you have more than one cat, it’s important to think vertically because it can help your cats establish a peaceful coexistence. An assertive cat who might normally want to engage in a confrontation may be content to claim the highest perch in the room as a show of his position. This may greatly reduce the amount of actual physical altercations.

Even if you have only one cat, provide some variation in vertical territory (high, middle, and low areas) for her to create a more stimulating environment.

At the very least, invest in a multiperched cat tree and you’ll be off to a good start.

Don’t Raise a Scaredy-Cat

Kittenhood is the time to start desensitizing your cat by gently exposing her to a variety of novel situations in everyday life. This will help her as she grows up to be unafraid of ordinary things such as the vacuum cleaner or unfamiliar people.

Get your kitten used to potentially scary sounds such as the vacuum or the hair dryer by first running one in another room while you play with her or offer treats. If she isn’t bothered by the faraway sound, you can bring it a little closer. You can then try setting a hair dryer on low and running it in the same room. Have some treats or a toy in the bathroom with you whenever you dry your hair, so that if the kitten is nearby you can offer a reward for being in the vicinity of the scary noise. The reason you want her to become comfortable with the hair dryer is that you may at some point need to bathe and dry her, and for many cats, the noise is the most frightening part.

The sound of the vacuum cleaner was what sent my cats under the beds, into the closets, and up to the ceiling fixture. So I began their desensitization by running the vacuum in a distant closed room. The sound was far enough away that it wasn’t too unsettling. I then began playing with the cats or feeding them while my husband would run the vacuum in another room (by telling my husband this exercise was for behavior modification purposes I was able to get out of vacuum duties for a week). Every day I moved the vacuum cleaner a little closer, but still in a closed room, and had my husband run it while I engaged my cats in something positive. When I finally brought the vacuum cleaner out into the largest open area of the house, I didn’t turn it on. I got my cats comfortable with it just being in the same room with them. While my cats were initially startled when I first turned it on, they soon got used to it. The key was that I took the process very slowly and never advanced to the next step until I was sure my cats were totally comfortable with the current noise level.

You can turn many of the scary aspects of life into things your kitten may barely notice with gradual desensitization and counterconditioning. Counterconditioning involves having the cat engage in an activity that would normally be counterintuitive to her in that surrounding. By running the vacuum far enough away from my cats I was desensitizing them to the sound through gradual exposure. The counterconditioning was having them engage in playtime, eating treats or meals while the vacuum was running. I was having them do something they wouldn’t normally do with a scary noise in the background.

Introduce your cat to grooming when she’s a kitten. Although as a kitten she may not have any mats to worry about, or even very much hair, getting her used to the feel of the brush, the nail trimmers, and being handled will make both of your lives much easier as she grows.

A common behavior problem that develops in single-owner homes is that the cat becomes so used to the sound, touch, and movements of one person, that when just one guest comes over, the cat panics. Imagine the cat’s terror should the owner get married (especially if children and other pets are part of the package). Early, gentle exposure to a variety of situations will help your kitten grow up well-adjusted rather than a cat nobody ever sees or worse, the kind your friends label as “the attack cat.”

An important reminder, though: the object of these exercises is to desensitize your kitten gradually. If she shows fear, you’ve gone too far too fast. Always proceed at a slower pace than you think is required. Two important tools for raising a well-adjusted cat are love and patience. We usually get the love part down right away; it’s the patience aspect of being a pet owner that we often have to work harder on.

Kitten Kindergarten

If the new cat is a kitten, find out if there are any kitten kindergarten classes in your area. These classes are usually conducted at veterinary clinics. I know you’re probably shaking your head at the thought of kitten classes but why should puppies have all the fun?

The classes help kittens become familiar with being handled in the veterinary clinic as well as become more comfortable with other kittens and people. Owners learn litter box basics as well as cat care information.

There are vaccination and age requirements for the kittens attending in order to prevent the spread of disease. Disposable litter boxes are provided as well.

Kitten kindergarten classes are fun and informative. Contact the veterinary clinic in your area to find out if there are any scheduled in your community.

Catwise Clue

Kitten kindergarten classes offer a safe environment for socializing kittens.

Leash Training

I don’t think the outdoors is a safe place for a little cat to roam freely. If you absolutely insist on letting your cat experience the outdoor world then do it in a safe way by leash training. Even if you never plan on taking your kitty outdoors, leash training is valuable. If you travel with her, it will give you added control when you take her out of her carrier.

Not every cat is a good candidate for leash training. A timid, nervous cat may find more security in the unchanging world of her indoor environment. All the unpredictable noises, scents, and sights of the outdoors could fuel her anxiety. A cat who gets very upset while looking out the window at the mere sight of another cat in her territory might become even more agitated if she’s outside and confronted with the scents of unfamiliar cats.

You may also be setting yourself up for a cat who starts demanding to be let outdoors or who decides she doesn’t need to wait for permission and attempts to escape. Another negative is that your cat will be at increased risk for getting fleas, ticks, and contagious diseases.

Leash training a cat doesn’t mean going for a brisk walk. The way you walk with your dog will in no way resemble the way you’ll walk with your cat. First of all, you’ll need to confine your walking to your own yard. It’ll be much safer because there’s less of a chance of running into other animals. Should your cat become upset or if you drop the leash, she’ll be in more familiar territory in your own yard and you won’t have far to go if you have to pick her up and carry her inside. She may also be less inclined to panic because she’ll be in familiar surroundings. Another reason to stay within your own yard is that you don’t want to teach her that it’s okay to roam beyond her own territory. That way, should she ever get out of the house, she may be inclined to stay closer to home.

How to Leash Train

The right equipment comes first. You’ll need to purchase a lightweight leash. Don’t get a chain or a heavy leather leash—you’re not walking a rottweiler. The lighter the leash the better, because it’ll be more comfortable for both of you and it’ll take less time for your cat to get used to it. You’ll also need a cat harness rather than a regular collar. Your leashed cat will pull out of a collar. There are several types of harnesses on the market. I use the Come with Me Kitty harness by Premier with my cats and clients’ cats due to its safety and comfort for the cats.

Make sure your cat’s vaccinations are up-to-date before exposing her to the outdoors. She’ll also need an identification tag just in case she escapes from you. If it’s flea season, be sure she’s protected (see Chapter 13).

Start leash and harness training indoors for the first couple of weeks. The first time you put the harness on your cat just be casual about it, then give her a treat, feed her, or distract her with playtime. Mealtime usually works best. Leave the harness on for about five to fifteen minutes. Repeat the procedure before the next meal. If your cat is normally fed free-choice, use treats or playtime to divert her attention away from the harness. If your cat struggles too much as you try to put the harness on, don’t attempt to buckle it; just get the harness on her and then immediately distract her.

As your cat gets more comfortable, put the harness on her for longer periods during the day and always provide a positive diversion should she begin to resist it. Don’t leave it on her when you’re not there to supervise because she could get herself all worked up.

In week two, introduce the leash. Attach it to the harness but don’t tug on it. She has to get used to the idea of being connected to something. If the leash is light enough, let your kitty drag it behind her while you provide a distraction. Be careful that she doesn’t get the leash caught on anything. It’s best to do this step in one room where she won’t be able to run off and possibly get tangled in something. Once she’s comfortable with this new attachment, you’ll begin the next phase of training.

Very important warning: don’t tug on the leash at this point or your mild mannered cat will turn into a thrashing, growling, fur-covered chain saw. The way to introduce her to walking on a leash is through positive reinforcement. Here’s where clicker training can work as well. Have a supply of treats in your pocket. If your cat responds better to wet food, hold a small container of canned food and feed the cat a tiny amount from a soft-tipped baby spoon. If you feel as if you need an extra arm in order to handle the leash, clicker, food, and spoon, tape an extension onto the spoon and then tape the clicker to the end. That way you can click and reward with one hand. You can also attach a trainer’s pack to your belt and put a small opened container of wet food in there.

With the leash loosely in your hand, take a step out in front of your cat. Hold a treat out at her eye level. When she starts walking toward the treat, click the clicker and give her the treat. Take another step forward, holding another treat and repeat the process. You can also use a target stick: hold it out in front of her and then click-and-treat when she takes a step forward. Continue this until she becomes used to walking with you. Gradually introduce a slight tug as you step forward. Don’t pull or yank the leash. It should be a gentle tug that’s barely detectable. Remember to give her time to eat her treat; don’t expect her to stay in motion all the time.

When your cat is comfortable with this exercise, you can pair the behavior with a cue such as “let’s walk.” Do your walking sessions around the interior of the house. Don’t attempt to go outdoors with your cat until she’s totally comfortable walking on a leash. She shouldn’t struggle when you slightly increase tension on it. Be prepared for this to take anywhere from one to three weeks.

Catwise Caution

Think long and hard about whether leash-walking outdoors is really a good idea for your cat. Carefully examine whether your outdoor environment will create a positive or negative experience. There is much risk with being in an environment you and your cat can’t control.

When you go outdoors, stick close to the house and don’t stay out too long. This is a new experience for your cat, so it’ll be overwhelming. Your initial sessions should ideally be limited to the back deck or just around the backyard. Carry a towel with you so that if she becomes upset you can pick her up by wrapping the towel around her. This way you won’t get injured. You may also want to wear your trainer’s pack with some wet food inside and carry your spoon so you can divert your cat’s attention to the food reward should it be needed.