7
Sour Puss
Solving Common Behavior Problems,
Serious Problems, and the Ones You’re Too
Embarrassed to Tell Anyone About
How Do Behavior Problems Begin?
We ask so much of our cats. We leave them alone all day with nothing to do, thrust unwanted companions on them, lay down ever-changing rules and force them to adjust their natural schedules to coincide with our more convenient ones. We don’t walk them and then insist they use a litter box that often falls way below their standard of cleanliness. We’re positive that the motivation behind their furniture scratching is willful destruction, because there’s a scratching post somewhere in the house—oh yeah, it’s in the laundry room (so what if that’s also where the dog sleeps). We spank our cats and then don’t understand why they’re defensive. We yell at them and then act surprised when they no longer want to be around us. We rub their noses in their messes because somebody somewhere told us that’s the way to train a pet. We punish our cats when we come home from work at night for something they did earlier in the day—it doesn’t matter that the cat is now peacefully sleeping in his bed—he’ll know why he’s being yelled at. We play with our cats when it’s convenient but push them away if they playfully bat at the newspaper we’re try to read. We treat our cats as children, adults, friends, enemies, confidants, even dogs—but not often enough as cats. Finally, we think our cats should know better, when in reality, we’re the ones who should.
We create most of the behavior problems in our cats. There are certainly other contributing factors toward behavior problems and disorders, such as medical conditions, lack of socialization, history of abuse or neglect, but for the most part, we’re the ones who mess things up.
Your relationship with your cat is just that—a relationship. As with any relationship, you have to communicate with each other and understand one another’s needs. People too often take on the responsibility of becoming cat owners, then expect the cat to do all of the work: suppress his natural behaviors and then magically understand the wishes of a giant who is speaking a language he can’t possibly make out.
You know by now that it’s your responsibility as a cat owner to educate yourself about this beautiful creature you’ve chosen to spend your life with. Learn to interpret what your cat is communicating, what his needs are, and finally, if you hope to solve a behavior problem, learn to understand his behavior. Many of the behaviors we label as “bad” are actually normal in the cat’s world. Animals aren’t stupid. They don’t repeat behaviors unless they’re serving a function. A behavior that’s normal for a cat may be unacceptable to us, but to view it as bad or abnormal will prevent you from finding a solution and could actually damage the relationship between you and your cat. You need to understand the motivation behind the behavior—the “payoff,” so to speak. It’s only when you look at the behavior from the cat’s point of view that you’ll be able to see what function it serves and find a solution that works for both of you. The owner’s misreading the cat’s motivation, and misunderstanding what he’s communicating, is most often why he’ll grant the cat a one-way ride to the local animal shelter. Behavior problems kill more cats than any disease ever will.
So what triggers behavior problems? For cats, the cause can be as seemingly minor as a change in routine. A cat is a creature of habit, so when his daily rituals are disturbed, it can cause anxiety. We humans are quick to make changes without realizing how a sudden shift in the comfort of familiarity might affect our cats. Boredom can also cause problems as the cat searches for something, anything, to do. Cats are predators, so it’s natural for them to seek stimulation throughout the day, and all too often, we don’t provide that. If a cat feels his territory is being threatened, that can spark a behavioral change. So even though you may bring home a companion animal for your cat with the best intentions, the method of introduction, if done incorrectly, may trigger major stress and territorial issues. There are also numerous medical conditions that can lead to behavior problems and, all-too-often, these go undetected because some owners are so convinced a problem is strictly behavioral that they don’t get the cat to the veterinarian for a proper diagnosis. Improper early socialization, abuse, and inappropriate punishment are also on the list of potential causes of behavior problems. The point is, it’s up to you to identify the motivation or cause of the behavior you don’t want.
A wonderful thing happens when you stop looking at your world through your eyes and start seeing it from your cat’s view—not only do you stand an excellent chance of solving the current behavior problem, but you’ll probably be able to head off future ones as well.
Here are some common training mistakes made by owners:
• misreading motivation
• inconsistency
• unfair changes (for example, now that you’ve bought a new couch, the cat is punished when he attempts to get into his usual spot there)
• punishment
• reinforcing unwanted behavior (for example, your cat meows at five a.m. so to quiet him you go to the kitchen and put food in his bowl)
• no training whatsoever
Changing Undesirable Behavior
If you’re attempting to change a long-standing problem, stop whatever it is you’ve been doing in the past, because it obviously hasn’t worked so far. Don’t force your cat to do or not do something. Don’t go head-to-head with your cat in a battle of wills. Step back, take a deep breath, make yourself a cup of tea, and I’ll help you plan out a new strategy.
As you go through this chapter, remember the
think like a cat perspective:
• determine the motivation or cause
• create an alternative that is of equal or increased value to the cat
• reward the cat for choosing the alternative
Litter Box Problems
This is such a complex subject that it needs a chapter all its own. Refer to Chapter 8.
Destructive Scratching
Another big one. See Chapter 9.
Destructive Chewing
Pica
This is defined as the eating of nonfood items. With dogs, the targets chosen for ingesting are typically feces, rocks, grass, dirt, small toys, or other small objects. Cats, though, usually stick to clothing, blankets, plants, and plastic bags. Although you can’t imagine why a sweater or blanket would seem appetizing, wool-chewing cats can turn a pair of socks into swiss cheese in a matter of minutes.
The theory about fabric-related pica is that some cats crave fiber and some breeds appear to have a higher need than others. Siamese cats, for example, are often wool chewers. It may also be an anxiety-relieving behavior.
To solve this problem, first remove all temptation. That means no more tossing your socks on the floor, leaving the bed unmade, or the plastic grocery bags on the floor. Keep sweater drawers closed and don’t store any sweaters on open closet shelves within reach of a wool-chewing kitty.
If you’re feeding your cat wet food, consult with your veterinarian about increasing the fiber by adding about a half-teaspoon of canned pumpkin (the exact amount will depend on your cat’s weight, age, and other specific factors). The pumpkin seems to work well and cats generally don’t mind the taste at all. Be sure and start slowly, though, and add just a little at a time when you’re increasing fiber in the diet. Before making any dietary changes be sure to check with your veterinarian.
Catwise Caution
The desire to ingest nonfood items can have an underlying medical condition. Have your cat examined by the veterinarian.
Grow some kitty greens for your cat (see section on Plant Attack). Make sure there’s always a supply of kitty greens, so your cat won’t go looking for an afternoon snack in the form of your daughter’s brand new wool sweater or your favorite floor plant.
Use environmental enrichment to provide alternate means of anxiety relief. Food dispensing toys will help redirect the cat’s energy while providing an appropriate reward (food) for his hard work. If the pica is due to separation anxiety, the environmental enrichment can help divert your cat’s focus.
Interactive playtime and a predictable daily routine helps as well. Be consistent and reliable with meal schedules as well. Consistency provides comfort.
If there is hostility in a multicat home, that situation must be addressed to control the anxiety level in the cat.
Wool Sucking
Wool sucking may be the result of abrupt or early weaning but it can also be an attention-seeking behavior, a play behavior, anxiety relief, or the result of boredom. The kitten continues the nursing-like behavior on clothing, shoelaces, blankets, etc. Some cats have specifically targeted types of fabric.
Catwise Clue
Siamese and Burmese cats top the list when it comes to wool sucking behavior.
Have your cat checked by the veterinarian to rule out underlying medical causes such as dental problems, gastrointestinal issues, etc. The best way to stop the cat’s behavior is by creating a more enriched environment with lots of opportunities for appropriate playtime and foraging. Address causes of anxiety (such as intercat issues), remove access to targeted items, and possibly increase dietary fiber (talk with your veterinarian). You can provide access to safe chewable items such as rawhide and dental chews.
Plant Attack
As you know, most plants are deadly or at least highly toxic to cats. For a list of dangerous plants refer to the ASPCA Web site (see Resource Guide).
Many cats enjoy munching on greenery and you can provide a safe alternative by purchasing one of the many kitty grass kits available in pet supply stores and online. Keep it in a convenient location. Your cat will prefer this grass over your nasty-tasting ferns. Follow the setup directions, water as indicated and in no time you’ll have lush greenery that’s safe for your cat’s afternoon snack. The only thing I don’t like about many of the kits is that they come in lightweight containers. If your cat pulls on the grass with his teeth instead of just munching, the container moves around. I usually transfer the contents to a heavier pot such as a terra cotta or ceramic one. You can even make your own kitty greens by sprinkling rye or oat seeds in a pot of soil. Be sure and use sterilized potting soil. Cover lightly with a ¼” layer of soil, water well, and allow to drain. Mist daily with a plant sprayer so you don’t disrupt the tiny seeds. Keep the pot in a dark, warm place until you see the little green heads peek out of the soil, then place it in a sunny location. As soon as the grass is tall enough, place it in a location convenient for your cat.
You can also buy patches of wheat grass at your local organic food store.
Self-Chewing and Overgrooming
Some cats groom excessively to the point of creating thinning hair or actual bald spots. A few cats not only groom but begin chewing on themselves to the point of creating sores. Some cats don’t chew, but lick repeatedly until they create bald areas. Sometimes the cat even pulls the hair out.
If your cat is engaging in this behavior, he needs to be examined by your veterinarian to make sure there isn’t an underlying medical condition causing the problem. Even a flea infestation can cause some cats to chew themselves raw. Hyperthyroidism is another common reason for overgrooming. A cat in pain may repeatedly lick or chew at that area on his body in an attempt to relieve the discomfort. There are many medical reasons for self-chewing and overgrooming and before you assume it’s behavioral, your cat needs to get checked out medically.
If it turns out that the problem is behavioral, the trigger must be identified. The chewing or overgrooming is an anxiety-relieving mechanism. Whatever is causing the cat to feel so anxious is the real problem. It could be anything from a change in your work schedule to the addition of a companion animal, living in an ongoing stressful environment, the death of a companion, or moving to an unfamiliar environment—anything can cause this behavior. The stress builds up to such a point that the cat must do something to relieve his anxiety. The medical term for this is psychogenic alopecia.
Provide as much stability, consistency, and positive activity for your cat as possible. Make sure his environment is as stress-free as you can. If the dog barks at him or relentlessly pursues him, make sure he has access to safe areas where he can get away from other household pets. The area in which he eats should be stress-free. When you place his food bowl on the floor, if you notice that he’s constantly looking around, frequently stopping to check out his surroundings, then you should move his feeding station to an area that is more secure for him. Try feeding him on top of a cat tree or in a quieter room.
As much as you want to hold and cuddle him, he needs to feel in control of his environment, so interactive playtime should be a regular part of his daily schedule. Two or three sessions a day will not only help dispel his anxiety, they’ll build up his positive associations with his environment. Leave activity toys and puzzle feeders out when you’re not at home so he has opportunities to find rewards and engage in anxiety-relieving behavior that’s healthy. Make sure he has enough distractions when you’re not around. A cat tree in a window, so he can watch the birds, will help him pass the time as well.
Pheromone therapy may help in the environment. Use the Comfort Zone with Feliway diffuser in the area where the cat spends the most time.
Psychogenic alopecia usually requires the use of medication in conjunction with behavior modification. Your veterinarian will advise you on whether antianxiety medication is required. He/she may also refer you to a veterinary behaviorist, certified applied behaviorist, or certified animal behavior consultant in order to establish the most effective behavior modification plan for your cat’s specific set of circumstances.
Trash Can Invaders
There are a few cats who, no matter what you feed them, insist on using the selfserve buffet found in the kitchen trash can. Your cat may dine on the most expensive cat food money can buy and then later that evening rummage through discarded vegetable peelings and used napkins to lick the aluminum foil you used to cover the roast.
There may be a medical reason behind your cat’s behavior that needs to be addressed. If your cat is dumpster diving, consult your veterinarian. There may be a dietary adjustment that needs to be made or there may be an underlying medical problem.
You could try booby traps and elaborate deterrents, but the first line of defense when it comes to feline dumpster diving is to have a trash can with a lid or keep the can in a closed cabinet. The more you booby-trap the can, the more trouble it becomes for you to throw something in it. If you have a cabinet that doesn’t latch, attach a magnetic closure to it or install a baby-proof latch. I’ve come across many Houdini kitties who have learned to paw open the cabinet door, and the baby-proof latches are the only things that stop them. Hopefully, you won’t have to go to that extreme to protect your cat, but keeping kitty safe is what’s most important.
Excessive Vocalization
If the excessive vocalization is a change from your cat’s normal behavior, be sure and consult your veterinarian.
If you have a Siamese, then you might as well skip over this section because he’s not going to change. Siamese cats love to provide running narratives on their daily activities and aren’t shy about voicing opinions. Know this and accept it.
Other cats may become vocal for many reasons. Mostly, it’s a surefire way of getting your attention. When the less subtle method of staring you down, walking back and forth in front of your computer monitor, or sitting on your chest doesn’t do the trick, nonstop meows usually work. The odds are that because he’s born with patience, determination, and unrelenting persistence, you’ll eventually cave in and give him what he wants. It may take five minutes of meowing, but he now knows that as long as he doesn’t give up, you’ll give in. Whether it’s to be let outside, fed, or petted, he knows that you know the only way to quiet him is to surrender. Of course, once you give in, you’ve just shown him that his meowing has successfully trained you. How do you change this behavior? Ignore his vocal demands. Don’t reward negative behavior. Even if you hold out for twenty minutes and then in desperation finally get up and put some food in his bowl he’ll remember that persistent meowing works. It took an inordinate amount of time, but it worked.
Instead of rewarding his negative behavior, when you notice your cat maybe about to enter into his meowing phase, click and reward him with a treat when he’s silent. Keep some treats in your pocket or get a trainer’s treat bag that attaches to your belt. This way you’ll be prepared to train at any time. When kitty meows, turn away. When he’s silent, click and treat.
One reason your cat may be meowing is because he isn’t sufficiently stimulated. Make sure you are engaging in daily interactive play sessions and have incorporated environmental enrichment techniques.
An older cat may yowl or meow at night after everyone has gone to bed or when the house is very quiet and there’s no activity. As he walks through the darkened house, his declining senses may cause him to become disoriented. Have him checked by the veterinarian to make sure he’s not in pain or experiencing age-related cognitive dysfunction. When you hear your older cat yowling or meowing at night, call out to him so he can find you. If it begins to happen on a regular basis or if he seems to be disoriented, confine him to your room at night. For more on helping older cats, refer to Chapter 16.
The Fearful Cat
Fear can be the result of inadequate socialization, a traumatic past experience, pain, illness, improper handling, and exposure to unfamiliar people or things. Fearful behavior may also be inherited.
Cats hate sudden change and prefer the security of their familiar territory. It’s only natural then that new people, places, or things may cause certain cats to be fearful. One common situation a cat may fear is having strangers come into the house. As soon as the doorbell rings, he may take off for the farthest closet. Here’s an exercise you can do: Ask a friend to come over (make sure it’s not someone your cat already hates). Have him or her sit in the living room while you go into the room where your cat is hiding. With total nonchalance, sit down on the floor and casually conduct an interactive playtime (key word: casually). Don’t try to force your hiding cat out, just lightly play with a toy, gently moving it around a small area of the room. Use your voice in a calm, comforting way. The effect is for your cat to start picking up the signal from you that this is no big deal. So what if there’s a guest in the house—who cares? You want to play with your cat. If you’re relaxed and make no attempts to force your cat out of his comfort zone, he’ll start to relax too. He may not actually play or even venture out of the closet the first few times, but he will begin to relax.
Catwise Clue
A fearful cat often tries to make himself look as small as possible. He may crouch down, lower his head, tuck his feet underneath, and wrap his tail closely around. Ears will be flattened back in preparation for a defensively aggressive move.The cat may pant or drool. You also may notice that he is shedding more hair than normal. If there’s an opportunity for escape, the cat will take it.
If you’ve been clicker training you can use a target stick (it can be a chop stick, the eraser on a pencil, a true target stick, or even a thin wooden dowel), and if kitty comes out from under the bed to sniff the stick, click and reward.
After several minutes with your cat, leave him alone. But instead of going back to your guest, sit on the floor in the hallway. Engage in a quiet conversation with the guest but dangle the toy gently to get your cat’s attention. Although your cat may not come out of the room, he may risk leaving the closet or coming out from under the bed. He may even come as far as the hallway. If clicker training, click and reward for any positive behavior, however small. If he’ll play, engage in a session but don’t try to take it any farther into the living room. Have your guest leave, and then reward your cat again. Ask your friend to return again the next day and repeat the same exercise. Keep up these visits and move, inch by inch, closer to the living room. You can also alternate the friends who come over, just be sure that each person chosen is someone your cat doesn’t already have a negative association with and that the person is on the calm, quiet side. Eventually your cat should be calm enough that he’ll make an appearance as you sit in the living room—however brief. If he can be distracted with playtime, let your guest conduct a game with him. The guest must remain in his or her seat, though, so as not to frighten the cat. Remember to give your friend a treat too (like lunch) for being such a good sport.
HELPING THE FEARFUL CAT
• Don’t force him to be in the room with you
• Make sure he has access to a hiding place
• Let him determine how close he wants to get
• Use gentle interactive playtime or treats for distraction
• Keep your tone of voice soothing
• Reward any signs of relaxed body posture or interaction
• Do daily training where you gradually expose your cat to a particular stimulus at a level significantly lower than what would cause a reaction
• Gradually increase the level of the stimulus
• Take several deep breaths to relax yourself
• Introduce changes in a cat’s life gradually
This slow and steady method helps a cat get over whatever frightens him. Conduct light play sessions. Let your cat dictate the pace, though. If he only wants to come as far as the hallway, then be content with that for now. Eventually, as he sees there’s no threat, he’ll inch closer. Your behavior throughout should be casual and relaxed. Very often, in an attempt to comfort a cat, the owner tries to hold the struggling animal. The owner’s voice often sounds worried, and the cat interprets this as confirmation that there really is something to fear. He needs to know there’s a secure place for him besides the back of the closet.
Is Your Cat Stressing Out?
Any cat in a stressful situation long enough can change from being healthy and sociable to nervous and fearful.
What would a cat possibly have to stress about? Don’t they just sleep, eat, and play the day away? I wish life for cats did just involve sleeping, eating, receiving affection, and playing, but unfortunately they encounter many negative things that can have an impact. We often forget how much security a cat finds in familiarity. Therefore, change—however minor we consider it—can be very upsetting for some cats.
First, let’s think about the things that would stress us. A death in the family, a divorce, a move to a new home, a move to a new city, illness, a natural disaster, even getting married can certainly be stressful (after all, a wedding wouldn’t be a wedding without a truckload of stress). These affect your cat as well. Plus, he gets a double whammy because for him it comes out of the blue. One day he’s sleeping in his favorite spot and the next thing he knows, everything’s being boxed up around him. A few days later he’s whisked off to an unfamiliar place.
BIG-TIME CAUSES OF STRESS
• death in the family
• marriage
• new baby
• divorce
• a move to a new home
• renovations
• natural disasters
• house fires
• abuse
• neglect
• loneliness
• illness or injury
Okay, so you’re not surprised that those things could stress your cat. What you may not realize, though, is that seemingly little and insignificant things can cause stress as well. Some cats negatively react to any change. The box on page 125 lists situations we might overlook in terms of how they affect a cat.
In order to help a stressed-out cat, you must identify the cause of the stress and if possible, eliminate or modify it. The best method, if you know something potentially stressful is coming up, is to prepare your cat gradually for it. Whether it’s a small thing such as a change in food or a big, big one such as a move to a new house, prepare him ahead of time. Introduce changes gradually. For example, when you want to change the cat’s food, mix a little of the new food into the current diet and increase the amount of the new food over the course of a week. If the change is a move to a new house, you should pack in stages, keep calm, and when you get to the new home, put your cat in one room. Let him get his bearings gradually (see Chapter 14). The bigger the change, the more prep time needed. When there is an unexpected crisis, such as a death in the family (human, feline, or canine), realize that your cat is experiencing the same emotions as you. Provide lots of playtime, keep his schedule as normal as possible, and monitor his eating and litter box habits. At these times he needs as much consistency and normalcy from you as possible.
CAUSES OF STRESS OWNERS 06 OFTEN OVERLOOK
• dirty litter box
• change in litter type
• change in food
• food and litter in close proximity
• litter box in a noisy location
• children
• holidays
• travel
• change in your work schedule
• boarding
• buying new furniture or rearranging
• new carpet
• addition of another pet
• ongoing appearance of another cat in yard
• not having access to hiding places
• ongoing loud noises
• rough or improper handling
• punishment
Because playtime puts cats in a more confident frame of mind and creates positive associations with their surroundings, I use interactive toys to keep them distracted from the negative situation and focused on something rewarding.
Make sure the cat has access to a security zone (preferably several)—meaning safe hiding places away from noise, other pets, or people.
Incorporate environmental enrichment to keep your cat occupied when you can’t be around.
There are bound to be situations that arise that will be stressful and some will be unexpected so you won’t have the luxury of being able to prepare your cat in advance. There will also be many situations where you’ll have enough advanced warning, so use these opportunities to ease your kitty through the adjustment. Happy kitty = happy owner. Stressed kitty = stressed owner. Keep the odds in your favor.
The Depressed Kitty
Sophia was a big (but not fat), beautiful mixed-breed cat. Her gray and white coat was lush, shiny, and kept meticulously clean by this very fastidious feline. She was a cat who loved to be in the center of things and was always in the lap of one of her owners, Patricia or Marc. Sophia was doted on, played with, and truly loved. Because she had been adopted as a kitten, this was the only life Sophia knew and there was no reason for anyone to think it would change anytime soon, but it did. When Sophia was seven, Marc had a heart attack at work. He was rushed to the hospital and died a few hours later.
Patricia and Marc had been married for twenty years. Patricia came home from the hospital that night, obviously still in shock. Over the next few days she began the long and painful process of grieving for her beloved husband. Friends and family remained by her side offering help. She was watched over and cared for.
Sophia, who didn’t understand any part of what was happening, began a slow descent into depression. From her point of view, one of her owners had suddenly vanished and her other owner was acting totally out of character. Sophia would attempt to climb into Patricia’s lap, but one of the visiting family members would shoo her off. There were lots of strangers in the house, but no one paid any attention to Sophia. In an effort to help Patricia, a neighbor was coming over to feed the cat twice a day and take care of the litter box. Sophia’s attempt at contact, though, was ignored. Everything in her world had been turned upside down. Eventually she began to withdraw. She kept to herself, coming out from under the bed only to eat and use the litter box. She became neglectful of her personal hygiene. Her coat started looking messy and dirty. She began using the litter box sporadically, choosing instead to eliminate in the corners of the closets. Food lost its appeal. Sleep became the focus of Sophia’s life. As months went by, Sophia’s deteriorating appearance and behavior concerned a guilt-ridden Patricia, so she called the veterinarian. A consultation with me was recommended after the initial physical examination and diagnostic tests.
When I arrived at the house, the cat I saw was a depressed, thin, dirty cat who in no way resembled the robust, social beauty she had been based on pictures and a behavioral history received from the client. Cats get depressed over many of the same things we do: death, divorce, illness, loneliness, you name it. How do you recognize depression? Look for changes in your cat’s normal routine, especially if there has been a crisis in the household. Keep in mind that the crisis may have happened some time ago. By the time some owners recognize the outward signs of depression, the internal deterioration is already taking place. Note any changes in personality, activity level, appetite, grooming habits, litter box habits, sleep patterns, or overall appearance. You know your cat—if something seems amiss, it probably is.
After you’ve consulted with your veterinarian, begin to bring the spark back in your cat’s life. Use lots of interactive playtime. Incorporate environmental enrichment. If there was ever a time when the fun factor has to be improved, it’s now. Add cat tunnels, set out puzzle feeders, and put a cat tree by the window. Play a cat-entertainment DVD on the TV, hide some toys in fun places, install a couple cat shelves on the wall, set up some cozy hideaways, and so on. Use your imagination to improve your cat’s environment. If the cat is home alone for long periods, have a friend or pet sitter come over for daily play sessions if needed. If you haven’t been clicker training, this would be a good time to start working with your cat. Also, if kitty has been neglecting grooming duties, help him out with daily brushing. The massage of the brush will feel great. Don’t forget to break out the catnip occasionally too.
If your cat’s depression is because you have changed your lifestyle and you’re gone for long periods and the environmental enrichment alone isn’t enough, consider getting him a companion cat.
Bottom line—make life fun again!
Catwise Caution
Depression is a serious issue and can impact your cat’s health. Pay close attention to your cat’s eating and litter box habits. If kitty stops eating, contact your veterinarian immediately. It’s dangerous for a cat to go without eating for more than twenty-four hours. In some cases, the veterinarian may prescribe psychotropic medication for the cat. Stay in close contact with your veterinarian.
Attention-Seeking Behavior
A cat may exhibit attention-seeking behavior when he doesn’t receive a consistent level of stimulation. In a home with inadequate environmental enrichment, the owner often becomes the only source of activity. Even in a home where the owner engages in lots of playtime with the cat, if he hasn’t been taught how to occupy himself with solo activity toys, he may rely strictly on the owner for playtime opportunities.
A cat may also exhibit attention-seeking behavior if he’s unsure of what the owner is expecting of him in terms of acceptable behavior.
Typical attention-seeking behavior may include: following the owner around, pawing at the owner, jumping up onto a surface to be closer to the owner, weaving in and out of the owner’s legs, vocalizing, biting, and inappropriate play behavior toward the owner.
Treatment involves not giving any attention to the cat when he’s displaying this behavior. Even saying “no” or pushing the cat away may be interpreted as receiving the much-wanted attention. Extinction is the method that works and that involves the cat realizing that his behavior gets him nothing—no attention, no fun, no interaction, no payoff.
Do not engage in any physical punishment for attention-seeking behavior because in addition to being inhumane, it also provides attention—however painful, it’s still attention.
Reward the cat when he isn’t engaging in attention-seeking behavior. So if kitty paws at you or vocalizes when he wants attention, ignore that behavior but then pet him or interact with him when he’s being quiet.
Maintain a routine of playtime, interaction, petting, etc., so the cat knows when to expect acknowledgment and playtime. The more consistent with every aspect of life as possible, from playtime to mealtime, the less anxious he’ll be. Less anxiety leads to less of a need to solicit your attention at the wrong times.
Noisy Nightly Adventures
You’re in bed and just about to drift off to sleep when suddenly there’s a crash in the other room. You sit bolt upright in bed, convinced you also heard the sound of a horse galloping down the hall. What in the world is going on? You get out of bed, switch on the light, and walk out into the hallway. Standing there, looking as innocent as can be, is your cat. On the floor next to him are the dozen roses you received from your husband that day. Also on the floor is the crystal vase that once held the roses. Of course, now it’s in several pieces in a puddle of water. Your cat blinks his eyes, flicks the tip of his tail, and goes off down the hall. What sounded like a horse to you was merely your eight-pound cat revving up for a night of fun.
While some of us are lucky enough to have cats who graciously agree to adjust to our schedules, others of us aren’t so fortunate. In order to ensure sleep for yourself, you’ll need to add a few things to your prebedtime preparations.
If you feed your cat on a schedule, divide his meals up so you can save a final portion for this prebedtime behavior modification session. Before you go to bed, and I mean just before, conduct a ten- to fifteen-minute interactive play session with him and then feed him his last meal portion for the day. The exercise will release his built-up energy and then the meal will most likely lead him to sleep afterward. Wind the action down at the end of the game so your cat is left relaxed. Don’t make the mistake of abruptly ending the game and then having to deal with a cat who feels he still has lots of extra energy to burn. Even with the wind-down and the meal, if he still insists on using your stomach for a trampoline as you try to sleep, put out some puzzle feeders or activity toys for him to discover in the evening. Put noisy toys in a more distant area of the house so the noise doesn’t wake you up.
If you can, leave curtains open in a window. Put a cat tree there so your cat can look out at the nightly activity. I keep the shutters open in the sitting room off my bedroom because my backyard is private. My cats love to sit on the cat tree and keep track of the insects and frogs conducting their nightly business.
You can also have a special set of toys and puzzle feeders that are only brought out at night. That will make them seem extra special to your cat.
Be consistent in your nightly prebedtime routine. It should be stimulating and satisfying so your cat gets to release his energy and then feel relaxed when it’s done.
Catwise Caution
Don’t conduct your nighttime interactive play session on your bed. You don’t want your cat to get the idea that the bed is a landing strip for his pounces, leaps, and sneak attacks.
Paw Prints on the Counter
The house is quiet. No one seems to be doing anything interesting so the cat walks into the kitchen and looks around. Nothing much happening on ground level, so in one graceful leap, he lands on the counter. Suddenly, out of nowhere comes his owner, yelling, charging the cat, aiming a squirt bottle in his direction, and then blasting water in his face. Panic stricken, the soaking wet cat scrambles off the counter, runs through the house, and dives under the bed. There, the terrified cat stays for the next hour. His owner replaces the squirt bottle on the shelf and goes back to watching TV in the den. What the owner is thinking: I’ll train that cat yet! What the cat is thinking: My owner is a lunatic! The bottom line: this training method stinks.
The best way to keep your cat off the counter, table, or whatever furniture you decide should be forbidden is to remember your think like a cat technique. Figure out what he likes about the counter, supply an alternative, and reward him for choosing the better option. We’re also going to add a little incentive here by making the counter unappealing. Remember to be consistent about which areas are to be off limits to kitty. Don’t confuse him by allowing him to be on the table or counter as long as you’re not eating, but forbid him when there’s food. He won’t understand the difference, and it’s not fair to expect him to.
Why your cat likes the counter is important information you need in order to create an appropriate and appealing alternative.
• Does he want food up there? If so, then set up puzzle feeders to provide a more acceptable alternative. Additionally, keep all food put away and not left out on the counter after meals.
• Are there plants up there to chew on or other interesting potential play objects? Remove plants from counters and keep small objects put away in drawers and cabinets.
• Does he want to look out the window? Place a window perch or cat tree near another window that offers an interesting view of outdoor activities. When I’m on consultations I often see cats on the kitchen counters in homes where there are no other elevated options. I’ve seen houses where tables were cluttered with so many items that there isn’t one free inch of space for a cat to sit on in order to look out the window. In many of these houses there isn’t a cat tree or window perch to be found.
• Is the counter a preferred napping area? Perhaps he loves being able to stretch out on the counter. Time to create an alternate elevated resting area that’s large enough for him—a cat tree with large perches, perhaps, or even a large pet bed or towel spread out on a table near a window.
• Does kitty feel safer on the counter? Create alternative elevated places. Additionally, if there’s hostility between other pets, work on repairing those relationships. Your cats need to feel they have safe places within your house. If kitty feels he needs to be on the counter to be safe, it probably is because he wants the maximum visual warning time to see if an opponent is approaching along with the reassurance that no one can sneak up behind him. Some cats seek the safety of the counter to get away from children or other family members as well. If so, it’s time to work on improving the relationship to allow kitty to feel calm in addition to creating alternate elevated areas.
• Does kitty want your attention? Incorporate regularly scheduled interactive play sessions and set up solo activities for environmental enrichment. If he’s jumping on the counter to engage with you, even the very act of you picking him up to remove him can be the interaction he wants. I’ve even seen owners who shoo their cats off the counters by picking them up, talking to them, and petting them as they place them back down on the floor. What kind of message do you think that sends to the cat? Jumping on the counter = loving attention from my owner.
My method is to use sheets of plastic carpet protectors. You can buy a small roll of this from your local home improvement store. Get the kind with little pointy feet on the underside. Cut the plastic into pieces so they’ll fit on and cover the counter, yet be easy to stack and store when not needed. Place the plastic with the feet side up, all along the counter. This makes the counter surface unappealing and the first time your cat jumps up there he’ll immediately want to jump back down. Keep the plastic pieces on the counter, or on any surface where you don’t want the cat to lounge. Remove them only when you need access to the surface, then immediately replace them when you’re through. Eventually your cat will decide that the counter isn’t such a great place after all. Don’t be too quick to remove the plastic permanently. A few more days of inconvenience are worth it to end up with a well-trained and happy cat. When you do begin removing the plastic pieces, do it one at a time over the course of several days. Keep the pieces closest to the front edge of the counter in place the longest so your cat will think all of them are still in place.
If you find your cat on a surface that doesn’t have the plastic pieces on it, and it’s an area where you don’t want your cat lounging, just pick him up, say “no” (don’t yell or scream, just say “no”), and place him on the floor. Don’t knock him off the furniture or drop him on the floor. On the other hand, don’t pick him up and kiss or cuddle him before placing him on the floor. If your cat jumps on the surface as an attention-seeking behavior, don’t make eye contact with him as you put him back down on the floor. Just place him down and walk away. He’ll eventually see that being on the counter leads to you walking away from him.
Biting and Scratching During Play
I can usually identify the owner of a new kitten just by looking at his or her scratched-up hands. Those ten fingers make such convenient and enticing toys when you’re trying to get a kitten’s attention. However, the message the kitten receives is that biting skin is acceptable. You won’t like that very much as your cute little kitten grows. From the very beginning, use the interactive toys for playtime so there’s never any confusion. As with all the other aspects of training, consistency is important. If one family member lets the kitten bite, then he’ll never be trained.
What to do if your kitten accidentally bites you during play: Say a high-pitched “ouch” or other sound to startle him to let him know he has hurt you and to inform him that this isn’t part of the game. If his teeth are still in contact with your hand, don’t pull away. This is important because if you do pull away from him, he’ll instinctively bite down harder. He’s responding to the movement of prey. Just freeze. If he doesn’t let go of your fingers, gently push toward him which will automatically release you from his grasp. It will also confuse him momentarily. Prey never willingly heads toward the predator, so he’ll relax his mouth, loosening his grip. After you’ve gotten out of his grasp, ignore the kitten for a few seconds. Then, get an interactive toy so you can teach him the appropriate object for biting.
The same approach should be used if the kitten accidentally scratches you in play, because if you pull away, the curve of the nails will cause them to dig in deeper.
Never punish, hit, or scold your kitten for play-biting. The best way for him to learn is to show him that the game stops when he bites an inappropriate object, then redirect him toward an acceptable toy. Don’t ever break the “no biting” rule no matter what. If you’re in bed wiggling your fingers under the sheet to entice your kitten and he bites you, you’ll have set the training process back several steps. Don’t send mixed messages.
Charging the Door
Whether or not your cat is allowed outdoors, you certainly don’t want him charging past you as you’re opening the door.
You should never greet or pet your cat right at the front door (or whatever door you use to enter and exit). If you call to your kitty the moment you walk in the door, he may begin to wait there as the time of your arrival grows closer. The sound of your key in the lock could be his cue to slip through as you open the door. Instead of greeting your cat right at the door, walk over to a spot a few feet inside the entrance and make that the official greeting area. Ignore him until you get to that spot. If you do this repeatedly, he may begin to wait for you closer to that inside spot rather than at the door.
To prevent your cat from running out the door when you’re trying to leave the house, say your good-bye to him in a specific spot (such as at his cat tree). You could place a treat-filled activity toy there as you are going so he’ll have something with which to occupy himself. If your cat isn’t food-motivated at the moment you’re going out, toss a toy away from the door.
If all redirection methods fail and your cat keeps charging the door, there is a last resort method to use. Be sure to try the other methods first, though, before using this deterrent technique. Have someone stand outside the door and open it just a little (not enough for your cat to squeeze through). If the cat goes to the door, the person is to squirt him with water or a quick spritz from a can of compressed air to startle him. Remember to NEVER aim for the cat’s face. Since the cat will be facing forward, aim for the chest or front legs. It’s important that the cat not see the person. You want him to think the door itself is responsible for this experience.
Begging Is Not an Attractive Quality in a Feline
I’m a pretty easygoing person, but I do have a few absolutely unbreakable rules in our house. No animals are to be fed from the table—ever. When I’m invited to a friend’s home for dinner, I find it extremely distracting to eat while their dog stares at me, forming little puddles of drool on the floor in front of him. I also don’t appreciate it when the cat jumps on the table or claws at my leg.
Feeding your cat from the table often upsets his nutritional balance, creates a finicky eater, contributes to obesity, and poses a health risk because many of the foods we eat are too rich and spicy for cats.
If your cat begins the behavior of begging, give him an activity toy, puzzle feeder, or schedule his meal for when you eat yours.
Aggression
It’s a scary subject. You don’t want to think about the possibility that your sweet little kitty could turn into a growling, biting, scratching attack cat, but to ignore warning signs could be disastrous for both you and your cat.
A cat who acts aggressively isn’t being mean or defiant or taking pleasure in watching you recoil in fear. A cat acts aggressively because he feels he has no other choice. A cat displaying aggressive behavior feels cornered and trapped. It isn’t fair to merely categorize a cat as being “aggressive.” That blanket label doesn’t do anyone any good (cat or human who interacts with him) because any animal is potentially capable of aggression under the right circumstances. What would be more productive is to identify what triggers the aggressive behavior so appropriate behavior modification can be done. By understanding more about what triggers aggression and what the different kinds of aggression are, you can, in many cases, avoid it from ever surfacing.
In the wild, aggression is a crucial part of a cat’s survival. It enables him to catch prey, defend territory, mate, and keep himself alive. For female cats, maternal aggression helps keep her kittens safe.
Very often there will be warning signs leading up to aggression—such as low volume growling, skin twitching, tail lashing, and paw smacks with sheathed claws. Some cats give several signs, some give only a brief one, and there are some cats who give no warning whatsoever that an attack is about to occur. If you find yourself in a situation where your cat is suddenly and unexpectedly being aggressive, the best thing to do is leave him alone. Any attempt to touch, pet, comfort, or restrain him will only heighten his panic and possibly get you injured. And since aggression is a behavior that can actually be caused by numerous potential medical conditions, consult your veterinarian to make sure the problem doesn’t have an underlying medical cause. Even if the problem is medical, your veterinarian may recommend that your cat be seen by a behavior specialist.
Catwise Caution
Don’t overlook the importance of having your cat examined by the veterinarian so an accurate diagnosis can be made. Don’t assume a problem is behavioral until your veterinarian has given your cat a clean bill of health.
The following are some forms of aggression seen in cats:
Intercat Aggression
This may be part of the normal ongoing dynamic between two cats. You may have two cats who have barely tolerated each other for years. Intercat aggression can also occur when one cat comes home from a veterinarian visit and smells different.
The more cat-dense the population in your home, the greater the chances of intercat aggression.
If you add a new cat to the environment, you may find the original cats, who were normally friendly, now display aggressive behavior toward each other.
Intercat aggression can be the result of a territorial threat or can be a case of redirected aggression from a different episode.
Aggression can be subtle and show up as guarding, stalking, and spray-marking, or it can be as overt as hissing, growling, swatting, and outright ambush.
Treating intercat aggression involves finding the underlying cause, making any necessary environmental changes, and incorporating appropriate behavior modification. Look at feeding station placement, number and location of litter boxes, location and number of scratching posts, and sleeping areas. It’s important for each cat to have his own safe areas and nonstressful access to resources.
In some cases the cats need to be separated and then reintroduced as if they’ve never met before. Have them together but at a distance during treat-giving or mealtimes. If one cat ambushes another on sight, use baby gates or a screen door to provide a little bit of a buffer during this exposure, or put one cat on a harness and leash. You can also place them each in carriers (separate carriers, obviously) during the mealtime or treat-giving. In subsequent sessions, move the food bowls closer together as the cats show increased relaxation.
Clicker training will help as well. Click and reward any sign of relaxation or nonaggressive behavior.
If the aggression is severe, contact your veterinarian for a referral to a certified behavior expert.
Catwise Caution
If there’s any tension in your multicat home, don’t add another cat.
If there is one cat who is initiating the aggression, place a collar with a bell on him to give the other cat some advance warning of his whereabouts.
Play-Related Aggression
This behavior directed toward a human is not acceptable. Your unsuspecting ankles are usually the victims of this. You walk by the bed and suddenly your feet are ambushed by a set of teeth and razor-sharp claws. It’s a hit-and-run attack, though, because he’s gone in a flash, racing out of the room and down the hall. In most cases, the cat offers an inhibited bite that doesn’t break the skin, but sometimes a cat is so aroused that he may draw blood.
It’s not unusual for the cat to hide in anticipation of someone (human family member, cat companion, or the family dog) to ambush. The cat may hide behind a door, under the bed, or behind furniture.
An orphaned cat or one who was taken away from his littermates too early may display this type of aggression because he didn’t experience the social play period that occurs in kittenhood. This type of aggression can also be the result of a cat who isn’t getting enough playtime or stimulation, so he has to go for whatever moving targets he can find. Your feet are usually the most tempting. The cat may not have learned to keep claws retracted during play.
Catwise Caution
If your cat tends to attack your feet when you walk, stop all action and merely stand still. It is the movement that attracts him. Additionally, redirect your kitten to an appropriate toy so he learns more acceptable behavior.
To correct this behavior, use interactive toys and play with your kitty at least two or three times a day. You’ll help him get all that energy out while also teaching him what objects are acceptable to bite (the toys) and what aren’t (your feet). Rotate his regular toys as well to prevent boredom. Set up activity toys and puzzle feeders for solo playtime to increase environmental stimulation. Make sure there’s at least one cat tree or climbing structure for the cat to use.
Be aware of certain trigger areas where your cat may hide. Keep some solo toys handy so you can toss them away from you in advance of an attack.
Remember to never let your cat bite your fingers in play. If you allow your fingers to be toys, then he’ll assume that toes and other body parts are toys as well.
To reduce injury done by claws (should the cat wrap his paws around your ankles), keep his nails trimmed. Never physically punish your cat for this behavior because it could trigger a fear of you as well as encourage more serious aggression.
Fear Aggression
This is displayed by a cat who needs to be left alone if at all possible. A cat who is terrified isn’t thinking clearly and will view most attempts at comfort as a threat.
A cat displaying fear aggression will often be crouched low to the ground with pupils dilated and ears flattened. He’ll very likely be hissing and growling. His body is usually facing sideways, but his head and front paws often face his “attacker.” This position says that his body is ready to get the heck out of Dodge, but his head and front paws are ready to defend himself. Fear aggression is a conflicting emotion for a cat, because he doesn’t want to be in that position, but he will fight if necessary. He’ll hiss and swat if you approach and if you don’t retreat, he’ll attack with claws and teeth.
Fear aggression is a behavior many veterinarians see when cats are brought into their clinics. This may be the only time owners ever see such menacing behavior from their cats. If frightened enough, the cat may even urinate and/or defecate. Sometimes anal glands are expressed as well.
If your cat is showing this behavior, leave him alone. If you’re at home, leave the room and let him calm down. If you know the source of his fear and can remove it, do so quickly and calmly. Leave your cat alone and don’t attempt to interact with him until he resumes normal activity such as eating, using the litter box, or soliciting attention from you. If your cat is injured and showing fear aggression, transport him safety to the veterinarian (see Chapter 18).
If your cat has a tendency to show fear aggression at the veterinary clinic, be sure to transport him in a carrier. He may be calm on the way there but impossible to hold once you walk through the door. If your cat is too aggressive for you to handle while at the veterinarian, let the doctor and staff handle him.
For a cat who tends to display fear aggression at the veterinary clinic, I’ve found that using the kennel-type carrier works best. You can unscrew the top and allow the cat to stay in the familiar bottom half rather than placing him onto the exam table.
Bring treats with you to help him make positive emotional associations with the clinic staff.
If the fear aggression is due to another animal in the home, you may need to separate them and do a gradual reintroduction. This is basically the same as introducing two new animals to each other. Rather than continuing the ongoing negative cycle, you just stop right where you are and start at the beginning. For the introduction technique, refer to Chapter 11.
Fear aggression related to another human family member should be handled very gradually. A common example is when the cat displays fear aggression toward a new spouse. The behavior modification technique consists of having the family member in question become the good guy. The best way to do this? Positive association, of course. This family member should be the one who offers the meals and treats. He/she should also be the one who conducts the interactive play sessions. One note of caution, though—it’s crucial that you go through this at the cat’s pace. Allow the cat to remain in his comfort zone. Don’t let the family member rush the trust-building process. The cat will be learning from a safe distance that this family member is someone who is not a threat and then, in time, the relationship will begin to grow more comfortable. If the cat is actively displaying aggression, don’t try to interact with him. Let him calm down by himself in another room where he feels safe. When he is no longer reactive, open the door and let him out again.
Catwise Caution
Pay attention to the cat’s posture and warning signals. Don’t attempt to handle a cat displaying aggression.
For a cat who shows fear aggression on a regular basis, consult your veterinarian. You may need a referral to a certified behavior specialist if the source of fear can’t be identified.
Petting-Induced Aggression
It seems to come out of the blue. Your cat is lounging on your lap, enjoying your loving strokes his back, when suddenly, seemingly without warning, he turns his head and either sinks his teeth into you or wraps his paws around your hand with claws unsheathed. Let’s look back at what happened. Your cat was relaxing on your lap and you were petting him. It seems innocent enough. Then, from your point of view, he suddenly attacked without warning. That’s where the communication breakdown occurred, because he more than likely gave you advance warning that he had had enough. The signs that an owner often misses include tail lashing or thumping, skin twitching, or a shifting of body position. Sometimes the cat looks back at you several times, trying to figure out why you’re not getting the message. By the time he whips around and scratches or bites, his overstimulation has reached a breaking point. Some cats have low thresholds for how much touch they can tolerate before pleasure turns to discomfort. For some cats the pleasure of being stroked soon becomes overstimulating. Other causes may include sensitivity, pain, or static electricity. The episode can also be triggered by petting a certain area on your cat. It’s not unusual for a cat to be relaxed and happy as you stroke behind his head or under his chin, but then become agitated if you stroke too far down his back or tail. Many cats have specific preferences so if your cat is prone to petting-induced aggression, pay attention to how he reacts as your hand moves along different areas of his body.
Become more aware of your cat’s body language so you can tell if he’s approaching overstimulation. If he starts exhibiting the warning signs, stop petting immediately. Let him just stay where he is so he can calm back down. The best thing is to try not to even reach the warning phase again. If you know your cat starts getting uncomfortable after five minutes of petting, stop after three minutes. Stop before he begins to feel uncomfortable, that way you’ll both enjoy this interaction more and he won’t associate your hands with something unpleasant. You certainly don’t want your cat believing that the only way to stop you from petting him is by inflicting injury on you.
If your cat has no tolerance for so much as one little stroke down the back, be content to just let him sit on your lap or on the sofa next to you. Build trust by not attempting to pet him. Provide a high-value treat reward when the cat sits in your lap. After several sessions, hold your hand out and scratch him once under the chin or on the back of the head. These two spots tend to have the highest tolerance to touch. Some cats don’t like having their backs stroked at all, but each cat has their own individual preferences. Do one quick stroke on a desired area, and after that offer a treat. Stroke again if all body language indicates no stress—and then offer another treat.
Pay attention to your cat’s cues. I have one cat who adores being petted on the head, under the chin, and around her shoulders. She doesn’t like long strokes down the back or any petting near her tail so I avoid that totally. She let me know what she preferred and I paid attention. As a result, she never has to worry that I might break the rules, and I don’t have to worry about being scratched.
Rubbing a cat’s belly is another common mistake owners make when petting their cats. Rubbing this most vulnerable area often provokes a defensive response where he’ll go on his back and expose all four sets of claws. A cat who exposes his belly isn’t asking for a tummy rub. If you test this theory, you will always lose.
It’s important to do the behavior modification to stop petting-induced aggression, because once the cat becomes confident that biting is the most effective way to stop unwanted interaction he may start using that more frequently.
Redirected Aggression
Redirected aggression occurs when an aroused and reactive cat, unable to gain access to an intended target, directs his aggression toward an unintended target instead. This can happen under various circumstances. For example, your cat may be looking out the window peacefully when suddenly a strange cat appears in the yard. You walk over to see what the fuss is about and as soon as you get close to your cat, he lashes out and attacks you. Although you weren’t the intended target of his aggression, in such an excited state he vented on you because he was unable to get to the primary stimulus.
In addition, it’s not unusual for a cat prone to redirected aggression to strike out toward the owner when the owner is trying to soothe him during a veterinarian visit, or attempting to pick him up when he’s meowing to go outside.
Leave your cat alone until he has calmed down. If the cause is the appearance of an outdoor cat, block your cat’s access to that window for a while, even if it means taping an opaque film or poster board over the bottom half of the window. Also, do your best to keep unfamiliar cats out of the yard. Easier said than done, I realize. But if you block viewing access at the windows you may reduce an outdoor intruder cat’s interest in coming around. If you set up a bird feeder for your indoor cat’s viewing pleasure, you may have to remove it for a while until the outdoor cat moves on to other areas. Another way to keep outdoor animals from coming close to the house or garden is through the use of the ScareCrow Sprinkler by Contech. This is a motion-activated sprinkler to deter unwanted animals from digging in gardens. Just make sure you don’t position it in a way that is prone to false triggering such as near sidewalks, driveways, or entrances. The product is available online.
In a multicat household, it may not be you who is the victim of redirected aggression but a companion cat who is on the receiving end. If, instead of you walking over to your agitated cat, his companion comes by—bam! The poor cat is struck without warning. Now the two friends are engaged in a fight. They may now avoid each other all day unless it is unavoidable, such as at mealtime, and even then there may be hissing, growling, and a high degree of tension.
Unfortunately, redirected aggression can put their whole relationship at risk long after the appearance of an intruder. If the innocent “victim” cat starts acting tentative or defensive in the presence of the cat who attacked him, this may keep the aggressive cat in a reactive state. They no longer trust each other. The best thing to do is to separate the cats as soon as possible after a redirected aggression episode. Keep them in separate rooms for the rest of the day. If they don’t see each other, they stand a better chance of calming down and not associating this episode with each other. After they’re separated and calmed down, give treats and conduct low-intensity, stress-relieving individual play sessions with each kitty. By the following day, the episode will most likely have been forgotten. How long cats may need to be separated will depend on the severity of the aggression. Don’t attempt a reintroduction until both cats appear totally calm and relaxed. There’s no set timetable so if the cats don’t seem ready, let more time go by. Rushing a reintroduction after an aggressive episode will always end in disaster.
If redirected aggression has caused an ongoing feud in your multicat household, separate your cats and start from scratch. Keep them apart for several days, or even weeks, and slowly do a reintroduction as if you were introducing two new cats.
Redirected aggression is one of the most misdiagnosed forms of aggression. Many times it’s identified as unprovoked aggression because it appears to come out of the blue. Keep in mind that a cat can stay highly reactive for hours after the initial episode, so you may not actually see any evidence to explain why your cat is acting this way.
If you know your cat has a history of displaying redirected aggression it’s important for you to pay attention to changes in his body posture or vocalizations that could indicate he’s getting aroused.
If possible, use desensitization and counterconditioning to help your cat become less anxious to particular triggers (such as the appearance of animals outdoors). What’s most important, though, is that you keep yourself and other family members and pets safe.
Territorial Aggression
Territorial aggression is crucial for a cat in the outdoor feline world. Your indoor cat can display that same behavior if he feels his territory is being threatened. Cats often display territorial aggression when a new cat is introduced into the environment. It’s also not uncommon for a cat to exhibit this type of aggression toward a companion cat who has returned from a veterinarian visit.
Territorial aggression can be displayed toward anyone—human, feline, or canine—but other cats are most commonly the targets.
Turf wars can even occur within your home between companion cats. Indoor territorial disputes can occur over a large area of your house or they can happen over smaller areas within the home. For instance, cats may feud over territorial rights to the owner’s bed. Choice spots by a sunny window, a comfy chair, the litter box, or food bowl can also be continually in negotiation. Territorial aggression can be displayed in overt ways or it can be as subtle as one cat guarding an area.
If there is a territorial battle going on in your household, try to create some breathing room in the disputed areas. For instance, make sure there’s more than one litter box so the cats don’t have to come face-to-face with each other at such a vulnerable time. Each cat should have his own food bowl, and if one cat is bullying another during meals feed them in separate rooms. Put a collar with a bell on the aggressor to give any victim cats some advanced warning of his presence.
Use interactive playtime to help dissolve built-up tension. Be observant of your cats’ body language and the times of day or areas of the house that cause territorial rumbles. When you see trouble is brewing beneath the surface, distract the aggressor. For example, if you see one cat is sleeping in a chair and the other cat is walking over to knock him out of there, redirect the aggressive cat with an interactive toy. This will arouse his prey-drive. If you divert his attention before he actually gets to the sleeping cat, you can often lure him away with the toy. If your timing is right, the more times you do this, the quicker that seek-and-attack pattern between the two cats will fade.
When the two cats are in a room together and begin staring each other down, distract them with something positive. Toss a couple of toys in various directions so the cats don’t collide as they go for them. By using something positive instead of a reprimand they’ll begin to associate each other with more positive experiences.
In some cases, the cats will need to be completely separated and then reintroduced using food and treats for positive association. Clicker training can also help here. Click and reward any posture that indicates relaxation or nonaggression.
If you’re not making any progress, do short sessions where the aggressor is in a carrier or crate, and the victim cat is able to roam free. This way they can start to get used to each other in a safe, controlled way. This method works well when you’re worried that the aggressor will instantly ambush the victim, which would cause the victim to simply remain hidden. Offer treats when doing this exposure session.
You can use your environment in ways that complement your cats’ relationship with each other. Make sure there are various elevated perches for the more assertive cats, middle areas and some hiding places for less assertive cats.
If territorial aggression is due to a visit to the veterinarian, keep the returning cat separated until he has had a chance to self-groom and take on the familiar scents of home again.
Pain-Induced Aggression
If you inflict pain on an animal, common sense will tell you that the animal is going to defend himself. It’s another reason why physical punishment only worsens the situation you’re trying to correct.
This aggression may also surface if you accidentally cause him pain while grooming him by yanking a tail or a mat, for example. A cat’s body is very sensitive and if you cause pain, he’s going to react.
Another occasion where pain-induced aggression may occur is if a cat has an abscess from a cat fight and the owner accidentally pets that area, unaware of it. When you touch that extremely painful area of his body, he may lash out at you. If a cat who normally enjoys petting and handling suddenly reacts violently, run—don’t walk—to the veterinarian because there’s a good chance he may have an abscess or other injury.
Rough handling, such as when a child pulls a tail or grabs an ear, may lead to pain-induced aggression.
Older cats who used to enjoy being handled and now show aggression when picked up may have discomfort due to arthritis.
Be sure and have your cat examined by the veterinarian to rule out an underlying medical cause for the aggression.
Unprovoked or Idiopathic Aggression
If your cat becomes aggressive for absolutely no reason that you can figure out, consult your veterinarian. There may be an underlying medical cause. In addition to determining if there is a medical cause, all other potential types of aggression need to be ruled out. Don’t attempt to diagnose this yourself. Take your cat to the veterinarian right away. This type of aggression is rare. Your veterinarian may refer you to a certified behavior specialist. Because a cat can stay aroused for hours after a redirected aggression episode, it can sometimes get misdiagnosed as idiopathic aggression.
When You Need Outside Help
Chances are you’ll never have to deal with a cat who goes over the edge with aggression for unknown reasons, but if you do, get the help of a certified behavior specialist. Unless you’re prepared to handle the problem of an aggressive cat and know what you’re doing, attempting to resolve this behavior on your own can result in serious consequences.
Don’t battle with your cat, don’t try to bully him and—for goodness’ sake—don’t resign yourself to living in fear of your own pet. Start by consulting with your veterinarian. Once all medical causes have been ruled out, your veterinarian can refer you to a certified behavior professional.
Almost all of the cases of aggression that I’ve been called in for have been triggered by something that can be identified. The owner may not be able to see it, but based on a veterinary exam, the environment, the circumstances, and the history I get from the owners, the cat’s aggression can usually be traced. Don’t resign yourself, or your cat, to living with aggressive behavior.
Beware of So-Called Cat Whisperers
With increased awareness of the study of animal behavior and the popularity of the TV show The Dog Whisperer, more and more people are calling themselves cat whisperers, cat behavior experts, cat behaviorists, and cat psychology professionals. The problem is that in this unregulated field anyone can put up a Web site and claim to be an expert, or whisperer, but how do you know their expertise is valid? You won’t know unless you do your homework and find out more about them. If you’re having a behavior problem with your pet, and your family life is in crisis because of it, you may be enticed by claims of “guaranteed results,” but if you don’t choose wisely you could be putting your cat’s health and welfare at risk.
If you’re in a position where you feel you need professional help with a cat behavior problem, how do you go about choosing the right expert? As I’ve stated before, start with your veterinarian.
When you visit your veterinarian, be specific and honest about the behavior the cat has been displaying. Sometimes when the veterinarian asks how often the litter box is cleaned or what the circumstances are when the cat bites, the client may be embarrassed to tell the truth. That won’t help the owner or the cat, so when the veterinarian asks questions, give as honest and complete of an answer as you can.
Behavior modification is a powerful tool and, if done correctly, an effective way to change unwanted behavior. Behavior modification is science-based; there’s no magic involved. A certified expert can explain to you how and why the process works and the science behind it. A certified expert will not “guarantee” results because much of the success of behavior modification depends on client compliance and the specifics of the case.
The best way to protect yourself from the multitude of so-called experts and self-proclaimed cat whisperers is to ask your veterinarian for a referral to a certified behavior expert. “Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists” are certified through the Animal Behavior Society. “Veterinary Behaviorists” are certified through the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. “Certified Animal Behavior Consultants” are certified through the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. You can visit their Web sites for more information and for the location of a certified professional near you. If there isn’t one in your area, many certified professionals will do telephone consultations. Refer to the Resource Guide for contact information.
Since anyone can put up a sign or a Web site with all kinds of too-goodto-be-true claims and show “testimonials” which may or may not be true, the best way to protect yourself is to choose someone who has proven that they have met the educational, experiential, and ethical standards in their field.
Drug Therapy for Behavior Problems
We are fortunate to have available today several effective psychoactive drugs for use in behavior modification. Far superior to the drugs used years ago to treat behavior problems, these medications have fewer side effects and are more appropriate in treating specific problems. If your impression of a medicated cat is one who sleeps all day or walks around in a daze, you haven’t been keeping up with veterinary medicine.
That said, I caution you that drug therapy is not magic and won’t make the problem instantly disappear. It’s to be used in combination with behavior modification and under the close supervision of your veterinarian. Psychoactive drugs are not one-size-fits-all nor are they a way to avoid behavior modification. It’s critical that your veterinarian and/or veterinary behaviorist get a complete behavioral history along with a medical history to determine which drug, if any, is appropriate. Psychoactive drugs are considered “extra-label” in veterinary medicine. This means the drug was not FDA approved for use in animals; or it was approved for use in one species but is being used in another; or it is being used to treat a condition for which it wasn’t FDA approved. Even though behavioral drugs can be extremely beneficial and in some cases an absolute necessity, your veterinarian must be well-informed about the use of the drug. Make sure you are also informed about possible side effects, how the drug works, what changes to look for, and how long the cat will need to be medicated.
Should You Ever Euthanize an Aggressive Cat?
As a certified cat behavior consultant, I’m often the last call before many owners reach their tolerance limit and decide the cat will be relinquished to the shelter. Many cats are put to death for behavior problems that could have been solved. Don’t be in a hurry to give up on your cat. He’s a member of the family and deserves every chance. So many of the owners I’ve worked with now have their relationship with their cats back on track—cats who were one phone call away from death.
In the many years I’ve been doing this, I have come across a couple of cats who had to be euthanized due to severe aggression (the cause in those cases was an untreatable medical condition). It’s not a decision to be rushed into. Your cat’s life depends on your sound judgment. Make an appointment with your veterinarian, sit down and have an honest discussion about your feelings and fears. Years ago, the option of consulting with a behavior expert wasn’t so readily available to the average cat owner, but now there are many more options for getting the professional help needed.
Turning an Outdoor Cat Into an Indoor Cat
Whether you’ve moved to a busier street, your cat’s getting old, the weather’s getting bad, or you just don’t want to risk outdoor dangers anymore, you’ll have to help your outdoor cat through a lifestyle change to become an indoor cat. While you may imagine this to be a difficult task, it’s really easier than you think—if you can think like a cat.
The first thing to do is look around and reevaluate the environment. Go through your house and try to view it from your cat’s perspective. Since he is now going to lose access to all the fun things such as catching live prey, watching insects, scratching trees, and lounging in the sun what will he get in return? Will his indoor environment be as stimulating as the outdoors? With your help, it can be.
Outdoors, he had access to the best places to scratch, courtesy of Mother Nature. What will he have indoors? Provide him with a tall, sturdy, roughtextured post that will meet both his scratching and stretching needs (see Chapter 9). If you’ve noticed the types of surfaces he has scratched on when outside, you can replicate that with his indoor post. For instance, did he prefer the bark of the tree or the wooden railing of your backyard deck?
Give your cat an indoor version of a tree to climb by purchasing a multitiered cat tree. If you’re handy (unlike me), you can even make one for your cat. Depending on how much room you have and how limited your budget, you can create a feline jungle gym. You don’t have to get fancy, though, a simple twopost tree with a perch on top of each post will do. One post should be higher than the other to allow a less agile cat to climb to the top. The trees in my house have bare-wood posts and rope-wrapped posts to accommodate the different scratching preferences of each cat. Put the tree by a sunny window and your cat will not only be able to watch the birds, he can curl up and take a nap.
Unlimited prey (or at least potential prey for the less than top-notch hunter) and the other perks of a dynamic outdoor environment can make your newly indoor cat feel as if he has just been sentenced to Kitty Alcatraz. A regular schedule of interactive playtime will not only provide exercise and fun, but will also thwart undesirable, destructive behavior. A cat who is used to being active all day won’t instantly take to daintily sitting by the window hour after hour.
If your cat was used to being let out at specific times during the day, he’s not going to understand why you’ve suddenly stopped playing by the rules. He may stand by the door, staring at the doorknob as if willing it to open. If the subtle reminders don’t rouse you, he’ll probably follow you around, meowing at regular intervals in an attempt to snap you back to reality. Finally, he may just give up on you totally and decide to break out of jail on his own. Digging at the carpet and scratching at the door are the most common escape plans. The very clever cat may act as if he has given up the fight and resigned to being an indoor pet, but in reality, he’s planning to make a mad dash the minute someone opens the door. To keep your home from sustaining damage and you from going nuts, you’ll need to incorporate redirection techniques to lure kitty away from the door. See the section in this chapter called “Charging the Door.”
Use activity toys to keep your cat busy while you’re at work or unable to engage in an interactive session. Cats who were used to the changing environment of the outdoors will appreciate coming across unexpected food-dispensing toys, an open paper bag or box to play in, homemade box or bag tunnels, food hidden in unexpected places, and other creative diversions designed by his loving owner.
If your cat was never trained to a litter box because he’d take care of all of his personal duties outdoors, keep him confined to a small area until you’re sure he has mastered his litter box lessons. Use an uncovered box with unscented litter. The soft, scoopable litter will be better than clay litter or one of the alternative litters because its texture will more closely resemble the soil or sand he’s used to.