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Scratching Posts, Sofas, Antique Chairs ...Which One Will Your Cat Choose?
Yes, You Can Have a Cat and Nice Furniture Too
During visits to cat-owning friends’ homes, you’ve seen the tattered remains of what once were drapes. You’ve tried not to notice the shredded sofa that looked as if it had been the victim of a tiny chain saw. Now you have your own cute little kitten back at home. Is he capable of inflicting this much damage ? Is this the end of your nice furniture? Should you have him declawed?
Before you decide to declaw, go back to those friends’ homes and really take a closer look at things. Do you see scratching posts anywhere? If so, are they short and wobbly? What methods did your friends use to try and redirect the scratching behavior to this more appropriate object? Was punishment the only way your friends thought they could train their cats? If you’ve read the previous chapters in this book, how successful do you think punishment would be? Based on what you’ve read so far, wouldn’t it make sense to you that if a cat was scratching the furniture, it might mean that either the scratching post wasn’t meeting his requirements or, worse yet, that there wasn’t a post available?
You have the opportunity to become an informed owner of your little kitten and use productive training methods.
Having a cat declawed is extremely serious and permanent, so please read this entire chapter and make sure you understand why cats scratch, why they choose certain textures over others, and the training methods I’ve successfully used for years.
The Need to Scratch
Scratching is an innate behavior and serves many functions in a cat’s life. The most obvious one is to maintain the health of his nails. A cat discards the outer nail sheath on his forefeet by raking them down a rough surface. As he pulls his nails along the material, the dead outer sheath comes off exposing the new growth underneath.
Scratching also serves as a visual and olfactory marker. When a cat rakes his nails down a surface, a visual mark is left that can be seen by other cats at a safe distance. This can greatly reduce physical confrontations because an approaching cat may see the mark and decide not to come any closer. When the cat scratches, he also leaves an olfactory mark through scent glands in the paw pads. So if an approaching cat decides to advance further, he’ll get more information about who left the scratch mark through scent communication. Even though scratching serves as a territory marker, it also probably plays an even more important role in providing security and familiarity for the cat.
If you’ve ever seen a cat run to his post to scratch when his owner arrives home, you’ve witnessed how scratching can serve as an emotional outlet as well. A cat will also use scratching to displace the frustration he may feel after being reprimanded or being unable to do something that he wants to do (for example, capturing the bird he sees through the window).
Scratching enables the cat to stretch out the muscles in his shoulders and back. A cat often enjoys a full stretch after napping in a curled-up position or after eating.
The Impact of Declawing
Many owners rush into the decision to declaw without understanding the consequences. Luckily, more veterinarians are educating owners that declawing should be a last-resort surgery.
Declawing, also known as Onychectomy, surgically removes an animal’s claws by amputating the end bones of the animal’s toes. It is the equivalent of having the top joint of all your fingers removed. After the joints of the cat’s toes are amputated, a pressure bandage is put on the legs and remains in place overnight. The cat is in pain upon waking and will continue to feel pain for many days afterward. If the cat isn’t given pain relievers, it’s an even more difficult recovery.
The wounds need a week or more to heal and during the recovery time, regular litter can’t be used because it’s painful to the sensitive paws and can get stuck in the wounds.
A declawed cat is almost totally defenseless if he can’t slash his enemy with his claws. Therefore, a declawed cat can never be allowed outdoors. A cat without front nails would have severe difficulty climbing a tree or fence in order to escape an attacker.
Declawing can sometimes affect a cat’s sense of balance and if surgery was improperly performed, one or more of the nails could grow back in a way that causes the cat discomfort.
There has been an ongoing controversy as to whether declawed cats are more inclined to become biters. Many experts will argue that there’s no supporting evidence to prove that a declawed cat is more likely to bite. I have seen some cats become biters and/or go through a personality change. I’ve also seen cats who remained just as good-natured as they were before being declawed. What is so unfortunate, though, is that these good-natured cats might have been the easiest to train to a post had the proper method been used. Declawing is extremely painful, causes the cat unnecessary suffering, and denies him the natural ability to scratch—something that’s vital to his physical and emotional well being. Declawing, in my opinion, is nothing more than mutilation. It is considered an act of animal cruelty and is illegal in many countries such as Australia, Brazil, Austria, United Kingdom, Finland, Switzerland, many other European countries, and most recently West Hollywood, California.
If you have a kitten, wait until you’ve tried training him to a post before considering declawing. I know it seems as if his claws are always exposed, but in time he’ll learn more about how his body works and he’ll figure out that he can keep his nails sheathed more often than he’s doing now.
Getting your kitten used to regular nail trims will help him accept having his paws handled when he is an adult. Keeping his nails trimmed will lessen damage to furniture, which is something that will benefit both of you.
The Average Scratching Post
The cat owner tries to do the right thing by purchasing a scratching post at the local pet supply store. The post is usually covered in a colorful carpet material and may even have a cute little toy dangling from the top. Home the owner goes with the best of intentions to provide for kitty’s needs. The post gets placed in the corner of the living room. The cat, ever curious when it comes to anything new in the home, goes over to check it out. Sniffing the post, the cat even gives the dangling toy a little swat with his paw. The owner smiles. Satisfied that this new addition to the home is harmless, the cat turns his back to it and trots over to the sofa where he proceeds to sink his nails in and scratch. The owner frowns.
Is the cat being stubborn and destructive? Willfully disobedient? Not at all. He just knows that the post won’t satisfy him when it comes to his natural, normal, and healthy need to scratch.
So what’s wrong with the average post? Let’s start with the cover material. Most posts are covered with carpet that’s too soft and plush. A cat needs a rough textured material that he can sink his nails into to help discard the dead sheaths. If you have a cat who is scratching on furniture instead of the post, compare the two textures. Run your hand along the post and then along the furniture. The furniture wins.
Moving on down the list, the next problem with the average post is that it’s usually not sturdy enough. Many have a small base so when a cat leans his weight on it while scratching, it topples over. Some poorly constructed posts aren’t connected to the base securely so they wobble. Because furniture is sturdy the cat has another incentive to use your sofa. He knows that it won’t wobble.
Most posts are also too short. The act of scratching is also a way for a cat to get a full back stretch. Look at how your cat’s body elongates when he engages in a full stretch. Stretching out feels so wonderful that he’s going to return to the place he knows will provide that—your furniture.
Choosing the Right Scratching Post
When you go out shopping, keep three rules in mind. A scratching post must be:
1. Covered in the right material
2. Sturdy and well constructed
3. Tall enough for a full stretch
For most cats, you can’t go wrong if the cover material is sisal. It’s rough texture is very appealing. As you run your hand along the post, the rougher it feels, the better. Think of a nail file. You wouldn’t want to use a dull, smooth file, right? Neither does your cat.
Some carpet-covered posts are acceptable if the material is rough enough and the loops of the carpet don’t catch the cat’s claws.
If you’re unable to find a sisal-covered post, you can order one online. There are several companies that make tall, sturdy, good quality, sisal-covered posts.
Making Your Own Scratching Post
You’ll need a 4” × 4” piece of wood (actually, it really measures 3½” × 3½” but it’s called 4 × 4 for some odd reason. Perhaps it’s a carpenter’s joke on the rest of us). It should be 30” in length. For the base, a 16” × 16” square ¾” piece of plywood will work. Select cedar, redwood, fir, or pine for the post. Oak, which is a hardwood, will be more difficult to drill.
At the store, you’ll probably find both treated and untreated wood. Don’t choose the treated kind because it has an obvious odor that neither you nor your cat will like. If your local lumber company or home improvement store only has treated 4” × 4” posts, then get a regular untreated 2” × 4” × 8”. Cut two 30” pieces and screw them together to form a 4” × 4” × 30” long post.
If you plan on leaving the base uncovered be sure to sand it well so you won’t get splinters should you stub your toe on it while on your way to the bathroom in the middle of the night.
To fasten the post to the base, you’ll need five #8 2½” drywall screws. Mark on top of the base where the post will sit. Draw two diagonal lines from the opposing corners. At the center of the “x” place your post and mark a square. Drill one hole in the center and one hole on each diagonal line, one inch from the center. Coat the screws with bar soap or wax from an old candle so they’ll go in more easily. Turn the base upside down and run the center screw through the bottom of the base into the positioned post. Double-check the location of the post with the marks you made on the top of the base before running the rest of the screws. When you’ve finished, if you still think the post isn’t sturdy enough, attach a small metal angle iron on each side of the post bottom where it meets the base.
There’s one common mistake that many owners make about cover material: they hunt down that carpeting they had left over. As with what is on most storebought posts, that carpeting is usually too plush and soft. Even if your cat, for some reason, decided that the fluffy soft carpet was an acceptable cover material for the post, it will send a mixed message to him. He won’t understand why scratching the carpeted post is acceptable but scratching the carpet that covers the floor isn’t.
I’ve found the easiest covering for a post is rope. When you purchase it, get more than you think you’re going to need because it’ll be wound very tightly around the post. You can also use rope to cover a carpeted post that your cat has been ignoring. Secure it at the top and bottom with heavy-duty carpet staples or carpet tacks. To protect your hands, wear work gloves when winding the rope.
Some cats prefer to scratch on plain old wood. You may have noticed this if your cat scratches on the logs stacked by the fireplace. If that’s the case, the easiest thing to do is make an upright log post. Nature has already supplied the ideal cover material for you in that case. If your cat scratches on bare wood, you can strip the bark off the log or use a plain 4” × 4” piece of wood.
SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR MAKING A POST
• 4” × 4” × 30” piece of wood
• 16” × 16” square of ¾” thick plywood
• cover material for post
• cover material for base (optional)
• sandpaper (to smooth base)
• five #8 × 2½” dry wall screws (more if using a 2” × 4”)
• four small metal angle irons (optional)
• carpet staples or carpet tacks
• drill
• bar soap or wax
• safety glasses
• catnip (to rub on finished post)
Cats can have such individual and unique preferences for scratching, so use creativity to come up with the ideal post. Don’t give up!
Where to Put the Scratching Post
Don’t make the mistake of trying to hide the scratching post. It may not be the greatest-looking addition to your décor, but your cat needs to know that it’s there. The post, conveniently located, can be a visual reminder to scratch in the right place.
Many cats enjoy scratching and stretching after a nap or after they’ve eaten. Because scratching is also an emotional outlet, many cats will want to use the post when their owner comes home or as they anxiously wait for dinner.
If the post is for a kitten, keep it right in the middle of his room or area so he can’t miss it. If your kitten has access to the entire house, invest in more than one post. You can’t expect him to keep a lid on his desire to scratch while he searches from room to room for his post. Make it easy for the youngster.
In a multicat home, provide scratching posts in the areas each cat spends the most time. Some cats may not feel comfortable sharing one post.
Training Your Cat to Use the Scratching Post
Scratching, for a kitten, is actually a means of climbing to higher ground. To a new cat owner, it may appear that your kitten has Velcro paws, as you watch him scale furniture, drapes, beds, and the clothes hanging in the closets. Take a deep breath and be patient. This phase will pass. Even though your kitten may do nothing with the post other than climb up and over the top, very soon he’ll discover scratching behavior and you’ll want to be ready.
The training method is the same for a kitten or an adult cat: make it a game. Dangle a peacock feather or other enticing toy right next to the post. As your cat goes for the toy he’ll feel the irresistible texture of the post. With your own nails, gently scratch up and down the post. Often, that scratching sound can inspire him to join in.
If your cat doesn’t have a clue about what to do with the post, lay it on its side and dangle the toy all around it. As he jumps on the post or paws at the toy, he’ll discover the texture. He may then begin scratching the post in earnest. Once he has discovered its true purpose, you can stand the post upright again.
Never force your cat to scratch by taking his paws and putting them on the post. No matter how gently you do it, your cat won’t like the experience and it’ll just cause confusion. His attention will be focused on getting out of your grasp and you’ll have done nothing but create a negative association with the post.
Make the games around the scratching post a regularly scheduled event for a kitten.
Keep your training methods consistent so you don’t confuse your kitten. Don’t drag the toy under fabrics such as comforters, clothing, or behind drapes. That could encourage him to scratch there as he claws at the toy. Don’t run the toy up and along upholstered furniture. That will cause your kitten to extend his claws and climb. Never send mixed messages.
Retraining a Cat to the Post After He Has Discovered Your Furniture
It can be done. First, though, you must have the right kind of post. Make sure you’ve followed my instructions and purchased or constructed an appropriate one. If you already have a post in your home that has sat for years gathering dust, don’t even attempt to retrain your cat to it, unless it’s tall and sturdy, in which case you may try recovering it with a better material. Chances are, though, you should probably just get rid of the relic.
Next, look at the areas where he’s currently scratching. If it’s the sofa or chair, you’ll have to make it unappealing. If the scratched area of the furniture is limited to certain sections, lay strips of Sticky Paws (a double-sided transparent tape made especially for this purpose) across them. Plain masking tape can leave a residue behind. According to the manufacturer, Sticky Paws has an acrylic base so it won’t leave any reside when removed from the furniture. The product is also water-soluble. Don’t use on leather or vinyl, though, and don’t keep Sticky Paws on upholstery indefinitely.
If the cat has been working on the entire chair, cover it with a sheet. Carefully tuck it all around and tape the bottom so he can’t climb up underneath it. Place strips of Sticky Paws at several locations. If you need to cover large areas of your upholstery, Sticky Paws also comes in extra-large strips. Now you’ve turned this great scratching surface into an unacceptable one. The next step is to put the new post next to the covered furniture. That way, when he goes over for his routine scratch and realizes his usual spot has disappeared, he’ll discover something even better. You can further entice him by using a toy around the post to get his attention. Also, rub the post with catnip to ensure his approval (adult cats only).
If you catch your cat attempting to scratch the furniture during retraining, don’t punish, hit, or yell at him. Increase the amount of double-sided tape. You can even attach pieces of plastic carpet protectors over the top (nubby side out).
Keep the furniture covered until your cat has been using the post routinely and no longer attempts to get at the furniture. Then gradually move the post over to where you want it permanently located. I recommend that you keep it relatively close to the same area, though, to remind him. When you feel he’s retrained and goes right for the post without so much as looking at the furniture, go ahead and remove the sheet or double-sided tape.
Catwise Clue
Get your clicker out and click-and-treat your cat when he scratches on his post. Reward him to let him know he’s done something good.
If your cat is scratching by the front door or around entrances to rooms, it may have more to do with marking than nail maintenance. Put a scratching post near the doorway and cover the scratched area with Sticky Paws. In narrow hallways or anywhere else it would be impossible to put a post, use sisal covered pads that can be attached to the wall or a doorknob. You can find them in many pet supply stores and online. You can even make your own.
Once you have your post(s) in place, you can monitor how successful it is by looking at the base. If your cat is using it, you should probably begin to see small crescent-shaped nail sheaths there.
Once a week during retraining, rub a little catnip on the post as a little hint (adult cats only). When retraining is complete, use catnip on the post periodically as a treat.
Should You Ever Surrender?
It’s one of the most common things I hear from owners. In desperation, they decide to give up and let the cat destroy a chair because they plan on buying a new one eventually. The problem with that logic is that the cat won’t understand why he isn’t allowed to scratch the new piece when he was allowed to scratch the old one. Don’t send mixed messages to your kitty. Invest in a great scratching post, put it in the right location, and do the training to entice your cat to use it.
Horizontal Scratching
Not every cat reaches up and scratches vertically. There are some who prefer scratching flat surfaces. You may notice your cat scratching on the carpet, welcome mat, outdoor deck flooring, or on the arms of furniture. There are also many cats who enjoy both horizontal and vertical scratching. If you notice that all of the scratched surfaces are horizontal, that may be why attempts at training your cat to a vertical post have been unsuccessful.
There are many commercial scratching pads available for horizontal scratchers. Many inexpensive pads made of corrugated cardboard are available. There are terrific corrugated-cardboard scratching pads made on an incline as well, in case you think your cat would prefer that type of position.
Feline False Nails
These are little plastic nail caps that can be placed over your cat’s existing nails. Permanent glue is squeezed into the cap and then it’s fitted over the nail. The caps last from one to two months. Your cat’s nails grow, so any caps that don’t fall off or aren’t chewed off will have to be removed.
The cat will still attempt to scratch with these nail caps in place but obviously won’t be able to penetrate anything.
For owners who are totally unable to train their cats to a post but also don’t want to declaw, these nail caps are an option.
I’m not a fan of this product because once the caps are in place, the cat is unable to retract his nails fully. I’m not sure how comfortable that would be over the long term. Also, the caps prevent the cat from enjoying natural scratching behavior. Even though I don’t like the nail caps, I’d prefer you use these instead of declawing.
The first time the caps are applied, it should be done by your veterinarian or veterinary technician in case your cat has any negative reaction.
Nail kits are available for at-home application and come in various sizes. Don’t attempt to do this at home if your cat is aggressive. Even if he isn’t, you’ll need an assistant to hold the cat while you apply the caps.
I’ve found that many cats manage to chew at least one or two of the caps off shortly after application. So you can’t just put the caps on and forget them. Check periodically to make sure they’re all still in place because two or three exposed nails will still cause damage to your furniture.
If you’re interested in nail caps, speak with your veterinarian.
Indoor Trees
Every home should have at least one. Not only do they provide a tall, sturdy scratching surface, they enable a cat to climb and perch on his very own furniture. There are a wide variety of trees available. You can get multitiered ones so that two or three cats can share, and they come in many different configurations and heights.
The support posts on the trees can be covered in rope, bark, sisal, or left as bare wood. Multitiered trees with two or three posts can have several coverings. It’s pure paradise for a cat!
The tree needs to be sturdy with a wide base because your cat may decide to do a flying leap from the top perch to the floor. Invest in a well-made post.
Choose a tree with U-shaped perches as opposed to flat ones. Cats like to feel their backs up against something so they don’t feel so vulnerable.
Should You Replace That Well-Used, Worn-Out Old Post?
Your cat has been faithfully using his scratching post for years. So much so that it’s now just shredded rope hanging from a mangled post. You throw the thing away and lovingly surprise your kitty with a brand new one. Guess what? There’s a good chance he’s not going to like it. He’d gotten that post just the way he wanted it, complete with visual and olfactory marks. It was truly his! Then suddenly, to his horror, his post is gone . . . vanished.
Don’t get rid of a post that your cat is strongly attached to. Instead, get an additional post and place it nearby so he’ll have a great new scratching option. Remember, scratching isn’t just for maintaining the health of the nails, but also for marking and emotional release. If he truly abandons the worn-out post for the new one, then you can dispose of the old one.
In our house, we have three large scratching posts and two cat trees. All are well-used, so I know my cats are happy with them. The most popular post is actually ten years old.