Travel is a four-letter word in the feline dictionary. If cats ruled the world, vacations would consist of: unlimited countertop access, first dibs on the bird feeders, an endless supply of mice, seven days of not having their teeth brushed or ears cleaned, and of course, eighteen hours of beauty sleep in the comfort of the master bed. Nowhere in this vacation plan would travel ever be considered. Most cats prefer staying home. They’d also prefer it if you stayed home as well. We love adventure—cats love routine. We love exotic new locations—cats love familiar locations.

If you have a kitten, spare yourself much trauma by getting her comfortable with travel at an early age. That’s not to say that as an adult she still won’t play hide-and-seek when she sees your suitcase come out of the closet, but it’ll be a heck of a lot easier than if you only venture out with the cat once a year for that dreaded trip to the veterinary clinic when it’s time for her annual vaccinations.

With an adult cat, it’s still not too late to make the travel experience less frightening. She may never learn to appreciate the adventure of travel but you can hopefully greatly reduce the anxiety and avoid long-term negative results.

Like it or not, travel is necessary for cats—whether it’s the trip to the veterinarian, a move to a new home, or even an appointment with the groomer.

Why Every Cat Needs a Carrier

No matter how well-trained and comfortable with travel your cat becomes, she needs a carrier. Transporting a cat in a carrier is the only way to ensure her safety. Whether you’re taking her across the country or just across the street, she must be in a carrier. It provides her with a feeling of security by allowing her to have a hiding place. If she becomes frightened or aggressive, you won’t want to hold a growling, struggling cat in your arms. Attempting car travel with a loose cat running around inside the vehicle is extremely dangerous (for you and her) and can cause an accident.

Think of the carrier as one of the most important safety items for your cat. Even if you never plan on going anywhere, your veterinarian makes house calls, and you happen to hate vacations as well, you still need to own one.

Having a carrier enables you to safely get your cat out of the house in the event of an emergency. Should I have to quickly evacuate my home in a fire I would never be able to handle my three cats, who would undoubtedly be extremely frightened, unless they were in their carriers. I keep the carriers set up and ready to go, so I’ll always be prepared. I live in a part of the country where tornadoes are relatively common so having the cat carriers already set up is part of my standard disaster preparation plan (for more on creating a disaster preparation plan, see Chapter 18).

Choosing a Carrier

A carrier should give your cat a sense of security, provide safety, be easy to clean, and enable you to get your kitty in and out without anyone getting injured.

Wire

This is about the most frightening way for a cat to travel. She’s trapped in a cage, yet feels totally exposed. By the time you reach your destination and attempt to remove her from the carrier, she’ll very likely be quite upset. Upset cats are not easy to handle.

Soft-Sided

They resemble the kind of soft-sided luggage you might use for yourself.

Soft-sided carriers are lightweight and most are approved for airline travel if you’re taking your cat in the flight cabin with you. The downside to these carriers, though, is that if something should fall on them during travel, there’s little protection. They’re also more difficult to clean if your cat has an accident.

If you do choose a soft-sided carrier, look for one that’s sturdy, has a firm floor, and is well constructed so the sides won’t end up caving in on the cat.

Wicker

It may look cute but it’s a horrible choice. Just try cleaning urine or feces out of a wicker carrier. I also think the wicker carriers are probably less comfortable for cats and more prone to damage from claws.

Plastic Kennel Carrier

The all-around best choice. They’re sturdy, easy to clean, and come in many different sizes. Most come with a grill-front entry door made of metal or plastic. Some carriers have top entry doors as well. Many are airline-approved and the smaller carriers are usually approved for in-cabin travel (the only way to go). Virtually indestructible, the plastic carrier will probably last the lifetime of your cat.

Even though you want your cat to be comfortable during travel, don’t buy a carrier that’s too large. She won’t need to move around much in there, and in fact, cats feel more secure when they can feel the sides of the carrier around them. A large carrier for general use is awkward for you to handle and the cat will end up being jostled from one side to the other. For lengthy travel, though, more room will be appreciated by the cat.

The plastic kennel is also a beneficial tool for creating more security for a frightened cat during veterinary visits. Instead of dragging or dumping the cat out of the carrier you simply detach the top so she can remain in the bottom half. Line the bottom with a towel for extra comfort. In many cases, the entire veterinary exam can take place with the cat remaining in the bottom half of the carrier.

With a cat who is acting aggressively at the veterinary clinic, this carrier may work better than others: after the top is taken off the technician or veterinarian can cover the cat with a towel.

Cardboard

They’re very inexpensive and sometimes even free. If you adopt a shelter cat, you’ll probably be given one to take her home in. A cardboard carrier is okay when you have a kitten but it’s not durable enough for an adult cat. A determined cat can claw or chew her way out of a cardboard carrier in the blink of an eye. Even though the cardboard is coated on the inside of the carrier, once a cat urinates or vomits, the box is pretty much useless. It scares me when I see an owner trying to contain a large, very unhappy cat in what’s left of a cardboard carrier that’s falling apart. In the animal hospital, I’ve seen the bottoms of dilapidated carriers give way as owners struggled to keep the box intact, only to have the cat go crashing to the floor—or worse—the parking lot.

There are a couple of things I do like about cardboard carriers, though. Because they can be disassembled and stored completely flat, they make great extra emergency carriers. If you have ten cats and can’t afford ten carriers, or don’t have the room, keep a few plastic ones and the rest cardboard. That way, if you ever had to remove all of your cats from the house, everyone would have a carrier.

Getting Your Cat Used to the Carrier

Not training a cat to be comfortable in a carrier will result in having to retrieve your hissing, growling cat from under the bed and attempting to fold four outstretched, scrambling limbs into the carrier while trying to avoid the unsheathed claws moving at lightning speed in your direction. Loosen your grip for just a fraction of a second and the cat crawls up over your head, leaps to the floor, and dashes back under the bed. Bleeding, covered in cat hair, wearing clothes that now sport countless pulls and holes, you tiptoe back to the bedroom to begin the adventure all over again. Your other option is to train your cat; that way you can easily place her in the carrier without having to change your clothes, bandage your wounds, and pick tufts of cat hair out of your mouth.

Begin the training process by placing the carrier in a corner of the room. Remove the grill door or at least secure it so it stays in the open position. Line the bottom of the carrier with a towel. If your cat is extremely suspicious of this setup, just go about your normal business and leave the carrier set up for a couple of days without proceeding to the next step. Eventually, she’ll get used to the presence of the carrier even though she may not venture anywhere near it. Conduct an interactive play session in the areas around the carrier but don’t bring the toy too close to it.

Now place a couple of treats in front of the carrier but still at a safe enough distance away from it so your cat feels comfortable (do this a couple times a day for a few days if kitty is nervous). When she’s comfortable eating the treats near the carrier, place the next round a little closer. You can break up the treats in small pieces so you won’t be interfering with your cat’s normal nutritional program, or you can use pieces of her dry food. If you feed wet food, place a tiny amount in a small dish here. Put a treat on each side of the carrier and a couple in front. Don’t be in a rush to put them too close to the carrier. By going slowly, your cat won’t become suspicious or feel threatened. If your cat chooses not to eat the treats at this time, just leave them there because she may go back to the spot when you aren’t around. If she still seems very nervous, even when you aren’t close by, then you may have taken the next step too soon—just move the treats farther away from the carrier.

When your cat is comfortable taking treats directly in front of the carrier, place them on the edge of the carrier entrance next. Each time, move the treats a little bit farther into the carrier. For now, make the carrier the only place your cat receives treats, or a portion of her meal.

Now that your cat freely goes in and out of the carrier and realizes that it’s no big deal, you can put the door back on but secure it in the open position. Then, when she goes in to eat a treat, close the door, count to five, and then open it up. Have a toy ready to engage her in an interactive play session as soon as she emerges from the carrier. Do this a few times so she gets used to the closed door.

Another training option is to have her eat her meal in the open carrier. Place the dish at the front of the carrier at first. When she’s comfortable with that, start placing the dish at the back of the carrier. Eventually, you should be able to close the door (unlatched) while she eats.

After your cat is comfortable being inside of the carrier, the next step is to toss a treat in the carrier and when the cat goes in, close the door, pick up the carrier, walk a few steps, then place it back down. Open the door, let the cat come out, and engage in a play session.

Practice the above step every day or so. Keep the experience positive, talk soothingly to your cat and hold the carrier as still as you can. She’ll be picking up her cues from you so be calm and casual about the whole procedure. If you need to backtrack a little and go back to just tossing the treats near the carrier, don’t worry about it. Just move at the pace most comfortable for your cat. Some cats will take to the carrier in a very short time but others may need more adjustment time.

Work up to teaching your cat to go into the carrier using a verbal cue. Just say the word kennel every time you toss the treat in the carrier. Make your voice upbeat and positive. Give her the treat when she steps inside the carrier. You can also use clicker training to help the cat quickly associate the word kennel with the desired behavior and the payoff of the food reward.

The next step is to have your cat in the carrier in the parked car. Do multiple sessions so kitty gets very comfortable. Reward her for calm behavior in the car. Next try having the engine turned on. At this point, the car hasn’t even left the garage or driveway yet.

When it’s time for the actual traveling part begin by taking her in the car for short rides. Start by just going around the block and don’t go any farther than that on your first try. It’s much better to ease through this by gradually increasing the distance in subsequent sessions.

To prevent your cat from solely associating her carrier with the less-thanthrilling experience of going to the veterinarian, take her there for purely social visits so she can see that something bad doesn’t always happen every time she goes there. With a kitten, bring her to the veterinary clinic regularly as she grows just to be petted and greeted by the staff. This helps her to become less afraid of the hospital’s or clinic’s smells, sights, and sounds.

Emergency Procedure for Getting the Most Uncooperative Cat in a Carrier

What if you haven’t carrier-trained your cat and you need to get her in one NOW. What do you do? Based on previous experience, you know she’ll fight you tooth and nail. The following is the quickest and least traumatic method.

Catwise Caution

Don’t scruff your cat without supporting her weight by holding her hind legs. NEVER dangle her by the scruff alone. Also, this scruffing method of getting her in the carrier is for an emergency where she isn’t injured. This isn’t a substitute for proper carrier-acceptance training.

Stand the plastic kennel carrier on its end so the end opening is now on top. Scruff your cat with one hand and hold her hind legs with the other (scruffing refers to holding a cat by the loose skin on the back of the neck). Quickly and carefully lower her into the carrier, hind end first. As soon as she’s in, quickly let go and close the door. Be careful not to slam it on her paws or ears. Latch the door quickly, before your cat has an opportunity to lunge at it. Slowly lower the carrier back to its normal position. Whew, mission accomplished—cat in carrier and no injury to human.

Should Your Cat Travel?

Even if you’ve carrier-trained your cat, it doesn’t mean she should travel everywhere with you. Take into consideration her temperament, health, age, the type of travel you’ll be doing and the time of year. Cats who are easily stressed will be much better off staying at home while the family vacations at a favorite theme park. Take into consideration whether your destination would actually be good for your cat. Just because you like to go to the beach every weekend doesn’t mean your cat wants to also. Dragging kitty to cat-hating Aunt Esther’s house for a holiday with the entire family would most likely be extremely stressful for everyone, from the cat to Aunt Esther.

If you’re traveling by plane, I’d leave the cat at home unless she can ride in the flight cabin with you (see “Air Travel” later in this chapter). The experience of riding in the cargo hold can be terrifying and possibly life-threatening.

Persians, Himalayans, exotic shorthairs, and other short-nosed breeds shouldn’t travel in hot weather unless you’ll be in an air-conditioned environment.

If you’re in doubt as to whether your cat is up for the trip and are considering using a sedative on her, please discuss this carefully with your veterinarian. Most cats travel much better without sedation. If you’ve never given a particular drug to your cat, being on the road or in the sky isn’t the time to find out she has an adverse reaction to the medication. If it turns out that your veterinarian recommends a mild drug for your cat, consult with your veterinarian about medicating her once in advance of your trip so that you will be alerted to any adverse reaction and can get her immediate medical help if needed. The last place you want to be dealing with a crisis is on the road or in the plane.

Traveling by Car

When traveling by car, if you’re going to be staying in motels or hotels, find out ahead of time which accommodations accept pets. To prevent the housekeeping staff from opening the door to your room and letting the cat out while you’re gone, make sure the front desk knows there’s a pet in there. They can arrange for housekeeping to be done while you are present. In addition, put the DO NOT DISTURB sign on the door. If you have doubts as to whether the cat will still be safe, close her in the bathroom with a big note on the bathroom door for the housekeeper not to enter there.

Many hotels have signs for you to post on your door to alert housekeeping that there’s a pet inside. If not, leave your own note on the door as an extra precaution.

Carrier

Your cat will need to be in her carrier throughout the trip. For long trips you may want to get a large crate so you can place a small litter box in the back. If you can’t fit a small litter box in her crate, whenever you stop to stretch your legs, let your cat have access to a litter box but be sure that car doors and windows are closed and that she is harnessed and leashed.

Don’t place your cat carrier in the front seat. Airbags are designed for adults, not pets.

Don’t hold your cat in your lap. Inside of a carrier is the safest place for her during car travel.

When using a carrier, secure it in place with the seatbelt. If you’re using a crate in the back of the car, secure it with a bungee cord. This will reduce the risk of your cat being thrown around in an accident and will also limit jostling and motion sickness during turns and sudden stops.

Harness, ID, Leash

Even if you never plan on taking your cat outside to walk on a leash, you should leash and harness train for added safety when traveling. Keep the harness on your cat during the trip and make sure she has an ID tag attached. When you take her out of the carrier, put the leash on her. When you get to your hotel or other destination, remove the harness and put her collar on (with ID). Make sure she’s always wearing an ID tag that has both your home and cell number as well as your vacation number.

Catwise Clue

As an added precaution, have your cat microchipped before your trip if you haven’t already done so. Your veterinarian can perform this quick and easy procedure. If you’re moving to a new home, be sure to provide the updated information to the registration company.

Litter Box and Litter

You can buy a package of disposable litter boxes that are made of coated cardboard. It’s much easier than having to wash out a plastic box. If you have room in the car and will be at your vacation destination for a while, bring along a regular litter box. It’ll probably be more comfortable for the cat, especially if she’s on the larger side. Bring your cat’s usual brand of litter because you may not be able to find it at your destination location. If your litter comes packaged in a bag, you may want to transfer it to a plastic storage container with a tight-fitting lid. I’ve had to vacuum litter out of the car after an opened bag fell over and it’s not fun. Bring along a plastic cup to fill the litter box with litter.

Don’t forget the all-important litter shovel. If you’re using a reduced-size box you’ll need to be very diligent about frequent scooping. Pack the shovel in a sealable plastic bag. Bring a box of plastic trash bags so you have somewhere to empty the dirty litter that you’ve scooped. If you’re staying in a motel or hotel, you’ll need to empty the dirty litter into the sealable trash bags because you can’t just dump the litter right into the room’s wastebasket. Be courteous of the housekeeping staff as well and take the bag of soiled litter to the outside trash container so the person cleaning your room doesn’t have to handle anything to do with soiled litter.

When traveling by car, bring along a small bottle of hand sanitizer so you can clean your hands after scooping the litter.

Extra towels are needed in case of spills and accidents. Wipes come in handy in case the cat messes on herself during the trip.

Food

If you feed wet food, buy the smallest sizes. If the cans aren’t pop-top, remember to bring a can opener and plastic spoons. For larger cans, you’ll need to pack a cooler for storage after the can is opened. Bring a plastic lid for the can or a separate container with a lid for storage of leftover food.

Bring a bottle of water so you can offer some to your cat periodically during the ride. To prevent any stomach upsets due to a change in water, bring along a plastic jug filled with your regular water from home or offer your cat bottled spring water. When you reach your destination, fill the cat’s bowl with the water from home and gradually add the new water. Don’t forget to pack her bowls and, while you’re at it, toss a package of treats and your clicker into the suitcase as well in case you need to do some clicker training to help her over any rough spots.

Other Necessities

If your cat is on prescription medication, be sure and bring it along. Check the amount in advance just in case you’re running low so you can refill the prescription before the trip.

If you’re traveling during a time when your veterinary clinic will be closed (and as such, you’d be unable to have records faxed to a temporary clinic), bring along a copy of your cat’s medical record.

If you have a long-haired cat you’ll need to pack your grooming supplies.

Don’t forget to pack some toys or it certainly won’t be a vacation for your cat. I also pack a little catnip, a couple of puzzle feeders, and a corrugated cardboard scratching pad whenever we travel.

Bring along a photo of your cat just in case something happens and she gets lost. This way, you’ll be able to make flyers and posters.

Don’t Leave Your Cat Unattended

Don’t leave your cat alone in the car in warm weather. Even just a quick restaurant stop can put your cat’s life in danger. Temperatures can reach life-threatening levels in just a few minutes.

Air Travel

Airlines have always had restrictions concerning air travel for animals flying as cargo during extreme hot or cold weather, but now those restrictions have become even stricter to help ensure the safety of the animals. Each airline has its own rules regarding whether animals are permitted at all during certain months of the year. For flying cargo, there are also specific outdoor temperature restrictions so you’ll need to know what the temperature is going to be the day of your flight. Some airlines don’t allow pet air travel at all.

Some airlines allow small animals to fly as carry-on but the cat must be in an airline-approved carrier. You can either use a plastic carrier (make sure it states that it’s airline-approved) or a soft-sided one. Some airlines only permit one pet in the entire cabin so you must call well in advance and make your cat’s reservation when you make your own. Very often there’s a fee to have your cat travel onboard with you. If at all possible, have your cat fly as carry-on.

Find out from the airline what documentation will be needed, such as a health certificate. Health certificates must be issued within ten days of the departure date. Don’t pack your cat’s health papers in the checked luggage—keep it with you so you’ll be able to present it when needed. Animals must be at least eight weeks old in order to travel by air.

Put identification on the carrier as well as on your cat. The carrier should have a sign that says LIVE ANIMAL. Even though she’ll be with you during the trip, the label is in case some unexpected crisis occurs and you get separated. The identification tags on the carrier and on your cat should have your mobile phone number.

At home, before you place your cat in the carrier, check it out to be sure it’s in good condition. With a plastic carrier, tighten all the bolts. With a soft-sided carrier, check the seams and mesh for any tears and double-check all zippers.

When packing for air travel, look over the section on traveling by car, which lists packing essentials. Although you certainly won’t be able to pack as heavily as you would for a road trip, many important items shouldn’t be forgotten.

If you must fly your cat as cargo, she must be in an airline-approved kennel. There must be a LIVE ANIMAL sign on the crate as well as directional arrows pointing up, indicating the upright position of the crate. Your name, address, and phone number must be firmly affixed or written on the crate. There must also be food and water bowls attached to the grill door. Confirm your reservation twenty-four hours before departure and get to the airport early enough to allow for all the procedures you’ll need to go through. Check with your airline to find out how early you need to arrive at the airport for your flight.

For international travel, contact your destination country months in advance to find out if pets are allowed, and if so, what the quarantine period is and what additional documentation is required. Contact the country officials again four–six weeks before departure to confirm that nothing has changed.

Leaving Your Cat at Home

Pet Sitters

By far, the ideal arrangement for your cat is for her to stay in her own home while you travel. Pet sitters can be a dream come true or the ultimate nightmare if you haven’t checked them out carefully.

A pet sitting arrangement can range from having your neighbor come over twice a day to feed your cat and clean the litter, to hiring a professional pet sitter, to getting someone to actually move into your home while you’re away.

If you have a cat-owning friend who would be willing to come over twice a day, I think this works out well because you know you can trust them and they’ll be comfortable with the required duties. Your cat will probably be more comfortable as well since it’ll be someone she’s familiar with.

Show your friend where the interactive toys are kept and demonstrate how you play with your cat. Offer to return this favor whenever your friend needs it, and this could end up being a very convenient arrangement.

A professional pet-sitting service is also an option. Besides caring for your pet, they will get your mail, turn lights on and off, and water plants. If you know of pet owners who’ve used them, ask for names and reviews on the quality of the services. You can additionally get referrals from your veterinarian. Check reviews on prospective pet sitters that are posted on the Internet. Check the Resource Guide for more petting sitting information.

Before hiring a professional pet-sitting service, ask them the following questions:

• How long have you been in business? You don’t want to be one of their first clients.

• Do you have references? If they don’t provide any, look for another sitter. Be sure to check all references.

• Are you bonded and insured? A professional pet sitter should be.

• What plans do you have in case of bad weather? (As a safeguard, give a nearby neighbor an extra key just in case). Find out what kind of vehicle they have and what their bad weather contingency plan is. This is where hiring a pet sitter who lives nearby is a good idea.

• Are you the one who will be making all of the visits? Some larger services send different sitters depending on who’s working that day. The person you interview should be the one who makes the visits.

• Do you provide a written agreement or contract? Get everything in writing.

• What is provided during a visit? Again, get it in writing.

• Are you able to administer medication? This is important if your cat is on prescription medicine. Find out what training the sitter has had and if he or she is capable of making sure your cat gets all necessary medication.

Check out the pet-sitting service thoroughly. After all, you’ll be entrusting them with your pets and your home. You should interview the pet sitter in person by having him/her come to your home. That way you can show the sitter exactly what would need to be done. You can also get a feel for how your cat reacts to that individual. If the pet sitter needs to be warned about anything, be forthcoming. For instance, if your cat bites, has a habit of bolting out the door, etc.

Most pet sitters make one or two visits a day to the home. They charge per visit so be sure you know exactly how many visits you’ll need.

Leave the pet sitter all necessary information in case of an emergency. In addition to your mobile number, write down all other contact information regarding where you’ll be staying, as well as the number of a trusted neighbor in case the sitter needs immediate help with something. Write your veterinarian’s name, address, and number as well. Ask the sitter if they know the location of your veterinarian. Additionally, call the veterinary clinic and inform them that a sitter will be caring for your cat and provide permission to do any necessary medical treatment. Give the veterinarian your mobile number as well. Show the sitter where the cat carrier is in case they need to take your cat to the veterinary clinic.

If you’ll be going out of town for an extended period be sure you leave an adequate supply of food and litter, as well as any prescriptions your cat takes.

Take the pet sitter’s phone number with you in case you get delayed on your trip. I’ve spent enough overnights in airports to learn that I need to always have a back-up plan. Make sure your pet sitter will be able to extend his/her services should you not arrive home on time. Call the sitter when you do get back so he/ she will know you’ve arrived home safely.

Boarding Your Cat

Even being in the best boarding facility may create anxiety for a cat, so if you have a frightened or highly reactive cat, she would be better off in her own familiar surrounds. For some owners, though, the only option is to place their cats in a boarding facility. I don’t know about boarding facilities in your area but where I live, we have several truly cat-friendly facilities. Some kennel owners understand how to make the cats feel as comfortable as possible when it comes to be being away from home. Some, unfortunately, view cats as small dogs and don’t create any special surroundings to address emotional security issues.

Inspect the boarding facility personally. There should be proper ventilation in the boarding room. When you walk in, if the odor makes you feel as if you’ve stepped into a giant litter box, imagine how horrible it must smell to the cats.

All boarding facilities should require you to show proof of vaccinations. Any facility that doesn’t require your cat to be up-to-date on its shots means it’s not requiring it of other cats as well. That puts all the cats at risk. Kittens who are not yet fully vaccinated shouldn’t be boarded.

Boarding facilities range from simple rows of cages to luxurious multitiered individual rooms, complete with televisions or scenic window views. Although it may seem silly at first, placing your cat in one of these deluxe facilities that resemble a fancy hotel room definitely has advantages. The staff often provide more personalized care, the cats have more hiding places, and there are scheduled individual play periods. If you have one of these special boarding facilities in your area, I urge you to check it out. They may be surprisingly affordable.

When you bring your cat to the boarding facility, bring her regular food, litter, and medications. Don’t bring your cat’s litter box, though. It won’t fit in the cage and you don’t want your cat developing a negative association with it once she gets back home. Provide your cat with a T-shirt that you’ve worn as well, for its comforting scent.

One of the most frightening aspects of being boarded is that cats have no hiding place, so very often they sit hunkered down in, of all places, the litter box. How stressful for a poor terrified kitty to have to seek refuge there. An open paper bag on its side can create enough of a hiding place for your cat to feel secure (bring along a supply of paper bags). A staff member can place a towel in the bag for extra comfort. For a very frightened cat, the bag should be placed at an angle so the cat doesn’t feel on display. To help keep the bag from collapsing, roll a one-inch cuff around it.

Catwise Clue

Boarding facilities get booked up early for the holidays, so make your reservations well in advance.

If your cat still becomes too stressed out, a sheet of newspaper can be taped over the front of the cage by one of the staff.

Moving to a New Home

From a cat’s perspective, it probably doesn’t get much worse than this. First, out comes the dreaded carrier, then a car ride, and it’s all topped off by the arrival at an unfamiliar location that her owners keep referring to as “home.” Home? Are you crazy? We left our home hours ago, so turn around and let’s head back there. I have birds to watch, mice to keep away, and a nap to take.

Once again, if cats ruled the world (and I know many people think they already do), you’d never go anywhere, not to work, not on vacation, and certainly not to the veterinarian. A move to a new house? Don’t even mention it.

Since moving to a new house is something that most owners will have to do at some point, making it as painless for your cat as possible will also make it a little less painful for you as well.

If you have a cat who goes outdoors, about a week before the move, stop letting her outside. The week before the move is usually crunch time for people: their packing becomes more intense, they’re sleep deprived, and the stress level rockets off the scale. Your cat, ever the observant one, will sense something is afoot and may choose to lay low for a while by not returning home at night. The last thing you need is to have to spend the day of the move searching outdoors for your kitty. There are many sad cases of owners who have had to give up and leave their cats because the movers had already left and schedules had to be kept or there’d be no one to let them in at the new location. It’s tragic to think about the fear and confusion that the cat must feel when she does head back home and finds no one there for her. Unless a neighbor recognizes her and can capture her, she’ll go from being a loved family member to a homeless stray. If I’m sounding a bit dramatic, it’s because owners often overlook this plan-ahead precaution and their cats do disappear before the move. It’s worth all the complaining you may have to endure from your cat during the week in order to ensure her safety.

The process of packing is drudgery. For cats, though, it’s an intense experience. They often love it, choosing to dive in and out of boxes, thinking you’ve created this indoor playland just for their amusement—or they hide in fear over the chaos taking place in their once-peaceful territory. Whichever reaction your cat has, precautions have to be taken to be sure she doesn’t get packed in a box. Don’t laugh—it happens. A cat playing in the boxes may decide to take a little nap in one. She burrows down into the linens that you’ve placed in there. You don’t realize that she’s in there, you close up the box, and into the moving van it goes. Whenever you pack, put your cat into a separate room or at least make sure you know where she is before you close any boxes.

The week before your move, get a copy of your cat’s medical records from your veterinarian (if you’ll be changing veterinary clinics). If you already have a veterinarian selected in your new location, have your current veterinary clinic forward the records there. Also, the week before the move is a good time to have an ID tag made with your new address and phone number for your cat’s collar. You’ll put it on your cat the day of the move.

On moving day, have all of the cat’s food, medications, etc., in a separate box that will go with you in your vehicle. You don’t want to get to the new home and realize you packed the food in some unknown box. The day of the move will be a hectic, stressful time, so either keep your cat confined in one little room or have her boarded for the day. If you have an extra bathroom, put her in there with her litter box, a bowl of water, and a bed. Put a little radio in there and set it to a classical or soft music station to filter out some of the commotion occurring just beyond her door. Place a big sign on the door warning people not to enter.

I also place the cat carrier in the bathroom so it doesn’t get placed in the moving van.

When you get to your new home, your cat should have a little sanctuary room. A bedroom is ideal. Set up her litter box, scratching post, bed, water, and food. Toss a few toys in there as well. Unless you’ve had to choose the bathroom as a sanctuary room, set up some of the furniture (even if it’s not in the permanent location) so she’ll have a place to hide. Having the comfort of the furniture she’s familiar with will be helpful to her.

Some cats will make the adjustment in a few minutes but others may need anywhere from a day to a week in the sanctuary room. Don’t rush things. Your cat will let you know when she’s ready to check out the rest of the house.

Take time out from your unpacking to visit and play with your cat. Fifteen-minute play sessions here or there throughout the day won’t wreck your schedule and you’ll be providing a world of comfort for your cat. Break open the catnip as well so you and your cat can celebrate your new home in style. Her confinement in the sanctuary room shouldn’t be a jail sentence. Remember, she’s a little emotional sponge so if you keep your attitude positive and casual, she’ll pick up on that and it could help in reducing some of the apprehension she may be feeling about this unfamiliar environment.

You’ll know your cat is ready to be let out of the room when she resumes normal behavior, i.e., eating, using the litter box, venturing out of the closet, not hiding, etc. When you open the door to her room, don’t force her to come out. Let her decide at what pace she feels most comfortable. You can leave a few treats scattered just outside the door.

Keep her sanctuary room set up for her because she may choose to go back there if she gets too anxious.

If your cat was allowed outdoors in your previous home, this is an excellent opportunity for you to make her an indoor cat. There’s a whole new territory right inside the house for her. It’s more than enough to keep her busy. The territory outdoors is unfamiliar, and you don’t know what other cats are out there who may feel there isn’t room enough in the neighborhood for a new cat.

If you’re absolutely set on allowing your cat outdoors, wait at least a month so she has a chance to firmly establish comfort in her indoor territory and to fully adjust to the move. When you do begin letting her out, do it with a leash and harness. After all, there’s no connection to this yard for her so you stand a good chance of her running away. Take her out daily for walks close to the house so she repeatedly makes the connection. If the weather is nice, sit outside with her on the deck or porch and feed her dinner there so this starts to become her home base. Let her walk in and out of the door so she makes the connection of where the entrance to the home is. She needs to know where to stay while waiting to be let inside.

Don’t allow your cat outdoors unless she’s fully vaccinated, has ID on, and is trained to come when called. I know the last one may be a stretch for many owners but it can be done (see Chapter 5).

Once again, seriously reconsider making her an indoor cat. With all you’ve learned so far in this book about environmental enrichment, playtime, and safety you can create an indoor environment that is stimulating, fun, secure, and comfortable.

Lost Cat

It does unfortunately happen despite an owner’s best efforts. Here are some guidelines in case you’re faced with this crisis.

Create Flyers

LOST INDOOR CAT should be at the top of the flyer. Below that should be a clear picture of your cat. Make color copies of the flyer (not black and white) so the picture stands out and the cat’s coloring/markings are easy to distinguish. Below the picture include a description, noting any unusual or identifying marks. Write the date lost, where the cat was last seen, plus your daytime and evening, or mobile, number. Offer a reward to create even more incentive. Make it substantial enough so every kid in the neighborhood will go out looking for your cat.

Create the flyer using bold, easy-to-read type. If you have to handwrite it, make sure your phone number is clearly readable.

Post the flyers everywhere you can: veterinary clinics, intersections, supermarkets, and pet supply stores. Wherever a flyer can legally be put up, attach yours there.

Make the Rounds

Immediately call the local shelter to let them know your cat is lost. Follow that up with an in-person visit to leave a flyer there.

Bring flyers to as many veterinary clinics as you can. Most veterinary clinics have a “lost pet” bulletin board. If they don’t have room for the flyer, you can at least post the picture with the information written on an index card.

Internet/Publications

Place an ad on Craigslist and use your local newspaper or neighborhood publication to post a “lost cat” notice.

Inform Your Neighbors

Go around to the neighbors in your area with your pictures or your flyer. There’s a good chance your scared cat could be hiding in someone’s bushes or garage.

If you find your cat, go around and remove all the flyers. Call the shelters, veterinary clinics, etc., to let them know so they can take down the pictures. Remove your ad from Craigslist. You don’t want people spending time looking for a cat who has already been found.

If the person who finds your cat refuses the reward, consider donating the money to your local shelter in their name. That way, some other lost kitty may be able to find her home again.