Emergencies and First Aid

Keeping Your Cool in a Medical Crisis

I’ve included this chapter on first aid, handling emergencies, and how to stock a general first-aid kit, but keep in mind that the most important part of emergency care is getting the cat to the veterinary hospital immediately. Unfortunately, situations may arise where treatment in seconds is crucial—for example: a cat who isn’t breathing or is choking—and how you handle the crisis could mean the difference between life and death.

Be able to act immediately when your cat has been injured, poisoned, or becomes ill because it may save his life and reduce the amount of pain and suffering he endures.

You should prepare for emergency situations and plan ahead. Now, I know that as you sit there with your cute little kitten on your lap, the last thing you want to think about is the possibility of him being poisoned, hit by a car, or attacked by another animal—but it does happen. Have a plan so you don’t waste precious seconds.

First and foremost, know where to take your cat for emergency treatment after hours. If there isn’t a pet emergency clinic in your area, ask your veterinarian what the emergency procedure is. If there is an emergency clinic in your town, make sure you know how to get there. Take a drive and map out the shortest route. Make sure all family members who are of driving age know how to get there as well. Some emergency clinics are only open in the evenings, so find out what the hours of operation are.

The plan should also include having a first-aid kit and being familiar with all of the contents.

Keep an assembled cat carrier on hand. Many owners dismantle the carrier for storage, which makes it too time-consuming to use in emergencies. Keep at least one carrier out with a towel in it and maybe your cat will use it as an extra place for midday naps.

A cat in pain is scared and often reacts defensively. Your sweet, docile cat when severely injured may bite or scratch when you attempt to help him. Have a blanket on hand for protection or keep a pair of wildlife gloves.

Be familiar with your cat’s temperature, pulse, and respiration under normal conditions to help you to evaluate his condition during illness or in a crisis.

First-Aid Kit

Nothing replaces immediate medical care from a veterinarian, but having an organized first-aid kit can make a difference when it comes down to seconds in a life-threatening situation. Having a well-stocked kit and knowledge of emergency procedures can enable you to prevent further damage or blood loss while you transport your cat to the hospital.

Familiarize family members with first-aid procedures and locate your kit in a convenient place. Besides having a first-aid kit, keep a hot water bottle, heating pad, blanket, towels, and a flat board.

Your veterinarian’s phone number and that of the nearest emergency clinic should be posted near the phone. You should also post the number of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (see Resource Guide).

You can purchase equipped first-aid kits or you can stock your own. I prefer to stock my own, using things that my veterinarian recommends.

For a container, a fishing tackle box or tiered tool box work great. All of the contents can be neatly organized when the box is open and everything is instantly displayed so you don’t have to go digging around in search of smaller items. Keep your first-aid kit well supplied, and replenish items before they run low. Check expiration dates and replace medicines before they get old.

The following is a general list of first-aid contents. Check with your veterinarian concerning use of specific items if you’re unsure of anything. He/she will also be able to guide you on special items you should stock based on your cat’s individual needs and the location in which you live.

FIRST-AID CONTENTS

• phone number of veterinarian and emergency clinic

• phone number of poison control center

• first-aid manual

• ear cleaning solution

• water-based lubricant

• plastic eyedropper

• activated charcoal

• antiseptic cleaner (one that’s safe for cats)

• thermometer

• tweezers

• small, blunt-edged scissors

• sterile, plain eyewash solution

• hydrogen peroxide

• sterile saline solution

• pen light (with fresh batteries)

Handling an Emergency

1. The most important thing is to get to the veterinarian or emergency clinic immediately.

2. To prevent further injury, remove the cause if at all possible.

3. Make sure the cat is able to breathe. Watch for rise and fall of the chest. Put your cheek near his nose to feel for air. Clear airways of any obstructions, blood, or fluid.

4. Check for pulse.

5. If you know how, give artificial respiration if cat has a pulse. Give CPR if there’s no pulse.

6. Control bleeding.

7. Move the cat as little as possible because the extent of his injury is unknown. When you must move him, support his body to prevent causing further damage and pain. Use whatever you have available for support, such as a blanket, towel, jacket, board, or box.

8. If the cat appears to be unable to swallow or is nonresponsive, position his head lower than his body to prevent aspiration of fluids.

9. Cover the cat to keep him warm.

10. Don’t panic. I know this is easier said than done, but you need to stay calm enough to assess the situation, provide appropriate immediate care, and safely transport the cat to the hospital.

Picking Up and Restraining a Cat

How you pick up and restrain a cat greatly depends on how calm, frightened, or aggressive he is and what type of injury he has sustained. Here are some general guidelines:

How to Pick Up a Cat

These instructions are for a cat who isn’t severely injured. If you suspect any fractures, extreme care must be taken to avoid further injury or pain. If your cat isn’t frightened and is used to being held, you can pick him up in your usual manner to place him in his carrier.

When dealing with a sick or injured cat, you need to use caution to avoid being scratched or bitten. Carrying your cat in your arms could make you vulnerable to being scratched in the face. Remember that an injured, sick, or nervous cat is unpredictable.

If your cat isn’t used to being held, approach him from above. Don’t go face to face with him because he might react defensively. In a reassuring tone, calmly talk to your cat. Let him first get used to your physical contact by gently petting his head and rubbing his chin. Slide one hand under his chest so that his lower body weight is resting on your forearm. Snuggle the cat in close, toward your body, to immobilize his hind legs. Gently but securely, grasp his front legs with your fingers. Your other hand can either cradle his chin or, if it keeps him calm, you can gently place your hand over his eyes and ears. Carefully place the cat in his carrier. If you don’t have a carrier on hand, use whatever you have that will ensure safe transport.

Handling a Fractious Cat

An injured animal is confused and frightened. He doesn’t know the reason for his pain; he just knows that he hurts. If at all mobile, his tendency will be to escape. In this crisis situation he most likely won’t recognize you or understand that you’re trying to help him. You stand a good chance of being scratched or bitten, so take precautions to protect your face, hands, and arms. An injured cat may lash out at your face as you lean in to assess his injuries, so proper restraint is crucial. Most people don’t have thick leather or suede gloves handy, but in case you do, use them to protect your hands.

With a cat who may be potentially aggressive, you can grasp him by the scruff of the neck and lift him into the carrier. Offset some of the weight by holding his back legs with your other hand. This also prevents him from thrashing around.

A frightened, fractious cat can usually be handled more easily if you cover him with a thick towel. Give him a minute and he’ll relax a bit because he’ll feel hidden. Gently gather up the cat and towel, tucking the rest of the towel underneath. Don’t let your guard down, though, because a cat under these conditions is still very dangerous. Once you’ve picked him up, place him in his carrier or in a box. If you don’t have a carrier or box and are transporting him in a towel or blanket, make sure his head is exposed enough for him to breathe in order to prevent suffocation.

If your cat is too dangerous to pick up inside the towel or blanket, drop a box over the top of him. Slightly lifting up one corner, slide a flat piece of cardboard underneath. You can now safely transport the cat.

When in a crisis situation, you’ll have to use your judgment on how best to handle and transport the cat based on his condition and what you have available. The most important thing is getting to the veterinary hospital quickly, safely, and without causing injury to yourself or the cat.

If attempting to transport the cat is causing too much stress, he may become too exhausted, which could cause shock. Contact your veterinarian or local emergency clinic for instructions. They may be able to send someone to help.

Respiratory Distress

Foreign objects in the nose, mouth, throat, or bronchi can obstruct breathing, as can wounds to the chest or diaphragm, or the collapse of a lung.

Signs to look for that may indicate respiratory distress: pale or blue mucous membranes (check your cat’s gums); gasping, open-mouth breathing; shallow breathing; short, rapid breaths; labored breathing using abdominal muscles; unconsciousness.

If the respiratory distress is caused by choking and you can see the object, try to remove it using blunt-nosed tweezers or your fingers. If the obstruction is farther down the throat, place your cat on his side and position the heel of your hand right behind the last rib. Firmly push at a slightly upward angle three or four times to dislodge the object. Don’t be too forceful or you’ll break his ribs. If you can’t free the obstruction, get the cat to the veterinarian immediately.

If the respiratory distress isn’t caused by choking, it may be due to injury or illness. Get your cat to the veterinarian immediately.

Artificial Respiration

If the cat isn’t breathing but has a heartbeat, artificial respiration is needed. Do not attempt this on a cat who is breathing on his own.

• Remove the cat’s collar.

• Open the mouth and pull the tongue outward to prevent it from blocking the throat, and so you can check for a foreign body.

• Clear the mouth of any excess saliva or mucous. If there’s vomitus in the mouth or if the cat was underwater, suspend him upside down by the hips and gently swing his body a couple of times to remove the liquid.

• Lay the cat on his right side with the body slightly higher than his head. The head and neck should be straight to ensure an open air passageway.

• With his tongue pulled forward, place your mouth over his nose only (don’t cover his mouth). Blow air into his nostrils for approximately three seconds. You should see the chest expand. Excess air will escape through the mouth. Every two seconds repeat the procedure until the cat begins breathing on his own.

CPR (Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation)

If the cat has no heartbeat and isn’t breathing, CPR must be performed. If the cat does have a heartbeat but there’s no respiration, then artificial respiration should be performed. Don’t attempt CPR on a cat who is breathing. If it’s at all possible to get to the nearest animal hospital, do so, because CPR is difficult to perform. If you’re too far from the nearest hospital, then you’ll have to perform the procedure yourself.

• Lay the cat on his right side.

• Continue doing artificial respiration in rhythm with CPR.

• With one hand, place your thumb on the cat’s sternum and your fingers on the opposite side, so that your palm is cupping his chest.

• Compress the chest firmly but gently. CPR must be performed gently or the cat’s ribs may be broken. The rate is one compression per second. Perform five compressions then administer a breath of artificial respiration without stopping the rhythm of the heart massage.

• Always observe the cat for signs of life and every few minutes check for pulse and spontaneous breathing.

• Stop immediately once you feel a heartbeat.

• Another method of administering CPR is to place one hand on each side of the cat’s chest, just behind the elbows. Using both hands, compress the chest five times then perform artificial respiration one time before repeating the chest compression.

• If you’ve been performing CPR for thirty minutes, it’s extremely doubtful that the cat will be revived.

Choking

The symptoms may include: coughing, pawing at the mouth, drooling, difficulty breathing, bulging eyes, unconsciousness.

If your cat is calm enough, attempt to look into his mouth in order to check for a foreign object. You may have to wrap him in a towel for restraint. If possible, remove it using blunt-nosed tweezers or your fingers. With a struggling or panicked cat, don’t attempt to remove the object because you could send it deeper into his throat. As long as the cat is not having breathing trouble, just get to the veterinarian immediately. If the cat is unable to breathe, you’ll have to administer emergency first aid. Lay the cat on his side with his head lower than his body and pull out the tongue. Place one hand below the sternum, give four quick upward thrusts (press in and up). Your thrusts should be forceful but not so hard as to break a rib. Immediately check the cat’s mouth to see if you’ve dislodged the object. If unsuccessful, repeat with four more quick thrusts. If you can’t dislodge the object, get to the veterinarian, performing artificial respiration in the meantime.

Controlling Bleeding

Applying Pressure

Place a sterile or clean gauze pad over the wound and apply even pressure. You can wrap a gauze bandage over the wound but observe the cat’s limb for signs of swelling, which could indicate possible circulation impairment. If that happens, loosen the bandage.

If the gauze pad gets soaked with blood, leave it in place and just add another one over top. To remove the gauze may disturb any potential clotting.

Don’t apply peroxide to the wound, or it’ll become harder to control the bleeding. Once the bleeding stops, don’t wipe the wound because you risk disturbing the clots and causing the flow to resume.

Another technique to try if direct pressure isn’t working is to firmly press the artery located on the inside of the foreleg (in the armpit) or the inside thigh of the hind leg (at the groin). This may help inhibit the blood loss from a limb while an assistant attempts to pressure bandage.

Tourniquet

The application of a tourniquet is to be used as a last resort to control life-threatening bleeding on a limb when attempts at pressure bandaging have failed. Irreversible damage and the loss of the extremity can result from a tourniquet that has been left on too long or put on too tightly. Don’t apply a tourniquet to any part of the body other than a leg or the tail.

Make a tourniquet by looping a piece of gauze, at least one inch wide, around the limb a couple of inches above the wound (the tourniquet goes between the heart and the wound). Tie the gauze once (don’t make a knot), place a stick or pencil on top then tie one more time. Twist the pencil slowly until bleeding has been controlled. IMPORTANT: the tourniquet must be loosened every five minutes (for one minute) to allow blood to flow to the limb.

It’s crucial that you get to the nearest veterinarian immediately to prevent permanent damage to the limb.

Shock

Shock occurs when blood pressure falls, causing inadequate blood flow to organs and tissues, which results in decreased oxygen. Attempting to compensate for the decreased circulation, the body speeds up the heart, diverts blood flow away from nonvital organs, and tries to maintain enough fluid in circulation. Without adequate oxygen, though, the organs have trouble functioning and the heart has an increasingly difficult time pumping.

Shock isn’t always easy to recognize or is mistaken for other conditions. If untreated, shock can cause death.

Some common causes of shock include: trauma in general, heat stroke, burns, poisoning, hemorrhaging, serious illness, and dehydration (due to diarrhea or vomiting).

Signs of shock include:

• A drop in body temperature (the cat may feel cold to the touch)

• Shivering

• Pale mucous membranes

• Weak pulse (often rapid)

• Rapid breathing

• Weakness

To treat shock: first stop the bleeding, if any, and administer artificial respiration if breathing stops. If the heart stops, proceed with CPR. Position the cat with his head lower than his body but if he wants to sit, don’t force him into a position. Keep him calm and let him settle into the position he finds most comfortable. Don’t stress the cat because it’ll make breathing more difficult.

Wrap the cat in a blanket and seek emergency veterinary care immediately.

Cleaning Wounds

This applies to less serious wounds. Bleeding wounds should have pressure applied (see “Controlling Bleeding”) and immediate emergency veterinary care.

A wound that is less serious should still be treated to prevent infection. It’s always best to have the veterinarian check any wounds, regardless of how insignificant they may appear to you.

For home treatment of minor wounds, enlist the aid of an assistant, if possible, to help hold and calm the cat. First, make sure your hands have been washed and that any equipment you’ll use is clean. The hair around the wound should be clipped. The easiest way is to put a dab of K-Y jelly or antibiotic ointment on the wound itself prior to clipping and flush it out afterward. This helps collect hair and keeps it from sticking down in the wound. Then, using scissors, carefully clip the hair around the edges of the wound. If you don’t have any K-Y jelly or ointment, just be very careful and hold the ends of the hair with your fingers as you clip. Next, with a clean, damp gauze pad, cleanse the edges of the wound. Using clean water, flush the wound to remove dirt and debris. If there is trapped debris in the wound, use a clean, wet cotton swab.

Using a gauze pad, you can clean the wound with antiseptic cleaner. Use the gauze pad to dab the wound only once then replace with a fresh one. Don’t contaminate the wound by reusing the same pad.

Keeping a bandage on a cat is often tricky, so if the wound needs to be covered to keep it clean, tape it carefully. Make sure the bandage stays clean and dry; change it daily, or more often, if needed.

Always check with your veterinarian to see whether a particular wound should remain bandaged. Some wounds heal faster when left uncovered, and any that are draining pus should be left open to the air.

Fractures

You may notice your cat walking on three legs, unable to put any pressure on the fourth leg. If he doesn’t hold it up, it may just drag uselessly. Another sign of a fracture might be an unusual angle to the leg.

Fractures to the spinal column will cause an inability for the cat to use his legs if the spinal cord is damaged.

Don’t waste time trying to splint or treat fractures yourself. In the case of a compound fracture (breaking through the skin), cover the area with a sterile cloth and get the cat to the veterinarian. Don’t attempt to push the bone back under the skin.

Be very careful not to move the cat more than needed for safe transport. Using a box that has been padded with towels will be most comfortable.

The tail is an extension of the spine and is very vulnerable to injury or fracture. Some signs to look for: tail held limp; crook in the tail; obvious sign of wound; cat appears to be in pain; or change in bladder or rectal function. If you notice any of these signs, get to the veterinarian immediately.

Heatstroke

Cats are unable to tolerate high temperatures as well as humans do. Heatstroke can happen in minutes if a cat is left in a parked car. Even leaving the windows cracked won’t lower the temperature enough. A car parked in the shade will still turn into an oven in a matter of a few brief minutes. Heatstroke is also a risk for cats confined to carriers in hot weather, restricted to sunny decks, porches, or yards without shade or access to water. Cats confined to rooms without air conditioning or any ventilation during hot weather can also suffer heatstroke. Short-nosed breeds such as Persians are especially vulnerable to heatstroke, as are older, overweight, or asthmatic cats. Overexertion on hot days or fever can also cause heatstroke.

Cats can’t perspire the way humans do. They must attempt to cool their body temperature through evaporation by rapid breathing and licking their fur. Heataffected cats drool a lot and lick their coats to spread the saliva in an attempt to cool themselves. As the temperature of the air increases, the cat’s system of cooling through evaporation doesn’t function sufficiently enough.

With heatstroke, the cat begins panting. The color of the mucous membranes and the tongue turn bright red. Saliva becomes very thick, the cat starts drooling, and often vomits.

Left unchecked, the cat becomes weak, unsteady, and may have diarrhea. The mucous membranes then become pale or gray and the cat collapses into a coma or may even die.

Treatment: remove the cat to a cooler environment immediately. If his body temperature has reached 106 degrees Fahrenheit, wet the cat down with cool (not cold) water and then place him under a fan—this encourages evaporation, which results in cooling. Don’t immerse the cat in cold water, because the skin will begin to cool too quickly. Feeling the cold, the vessels to the skin will constrict and blood flow is directed internally. As a result, the core body temperature won’t start to drop as rapidly. Provide cool water for him to drink. Massage his skin and legs to regain normal circulation. Take the cat’s rectal temperature every five minutes. Once the temperature goes below 103 degrees Fahrenheit, you can cease wetting him down. Because the cat’s system is so unsteady, you want to make sure you don’t cool him down too much, risking hypothermia.

Get the cat to the veterinarian as soon as possible to check for any internal complications and to provide additional supportive treatment. Very often, a cat suffering from hyperthermia goes into shock.

Observe your cat for several days afterward because not all complications from heatstroke may be immediately apparent. Hemorrhagic diarrhea (due to cell death) and renal failure can appear hours or even days later.

Hypothermia

Hypothermia can occur when there’s a fall in body temperature. This can be caused by exposure to cold, wet, shock, after anesthesia, or illness; newborn kittens are also at risk.

Signs include: a rectal temperature below 100 degrees Fahrenheit, being cold to the touch, shivering, depression, stiffness, dilated pupils, and anxiety. Without treatment, the cat will collapse and go into a coma.

Treatment: Wrap the cat in a blanket or towel and dry him off if he’s wet. Don’t use a hair dryer to warm the cat because you risk causing burns. Fill a hot water bottle with warm water and wrap it in a towel before putting it next to the cat’s skin. If you use a heating pad it must be set on low and place a towel between the pad and the cat’s body. To avoid shock, the rewarming process must be slow. Check the cat’s rectal temperature every ten minutes. Continue using the warm water-filled bottle until the cat’s temperature reaches 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

Hypothermia predisposes a cat to low blood sugar. When he begins moving around again, give him a little honey to raise his blood sugar level.

Take the cat to the veterinarian for follow-up treatment.

If you’re unable to get your cat’s temperature back to normal within forty-five minutes, get medical attention.

If hypothermia occurs in a kitten, place him under your clothing and use your own body heat to warm him. Don’t place him on a heating pad or attempt to feed him. Get him to the veterinarian for immediate medical attention.

Frostbite

This is caused when a cat is exposed to extreme cold. The ears, tail, and feet are the places most usually affected. As circulation is impaired, tissue damage results. At first, the skin will look pale. As thawing occurs, the skin becomes red, swollen, and hot. Later, peeling sometimes occurs. The skin will also be extremely painful if touched, so use caution when handling a cat suffering frostbite.

Treatment: Move the cat to a warm area. Either immerse the area affected in warm (never hot) water or apply warm moist packs until the area appears flushed. DON’T rub or massage the areas because you risk causing further damage. Apply an antibiotic ointment and seek immediate veterinary attention.

Oral antibiotics may have to be given to prevent infection and your veterinarian may also prescribe a pain reliever.

Frostbitten areas later become more susceptible to cold.

Prevent frostbite by keeping your cat indoors during very cold weather. If you’re feeding outdoor strays, provide access to dry shelter.

Burns

Burns can be a particular hazard for cats should they walk across stoves, get too close to a burner, or get splattered with hot oil or boiling water while being underfoot during meal preparation. The paw pads are the most commonly burned areas due to the cat walking on a hot surface (whether that is a hot stove or hot pavement).

For superficial burns, apply a clean, cold, water-soaked cloth over the area for about thirty minutes to relieve the pain. Then, gently pat the area dry. Clip the hair away from the burn. Make sure the burn stays clean and dry. Watch for signs of blistering. NEVER use ice because it will damage the tissues underneath. Don’t apply butter or ointments. Take your cat to the veterinarian immediately in case further treatment is needed.

Second-degree burns often cause blistering, swelling, and usually some oozing. The skin will be very red. Apply a clean, cold, water-soaked cloth over the burn. Then very gently pat the area dry. Don’t rub. Put sterile gauze lightly over the area, being careful to not touch any blisters. Get to the veterinarian right away.

Third-degree burns are the most serious. Underlying tissues are destroyed. The skin will appear charred or it may even look white. The cat will probably be in shock. Soak a clean cloth in cold water and very gently place it over the burn. Gently put a dry cloth over the wet dressing and get immediate emergency veterinary care. Don’t waste time trying to administer any treatment at home. It’s crucial that you get to the veterinary clinic immediately.

Chemical Burns

Chemicals that splash on the cat’s body or in his eyes can result in serious injury. A cat can even make the situation worse by attempting to remove the chemical from his coat by licking. Fast action on your part is critical to prevent further damage.

For burns to the skin, if you don’t know what type of chemical it is, flush the area with clear water. If you have rubber gloves, use them because some chemicals can actually eat through the skin. If you know that the chemical is an acid (such as bleach), flush the area with a solution of baking soda and water (one teaspoon baking soda in one pint of water). Wash alkalis (such as drain cleaner) with a solution of equal parts vinegar and water. If you’re at all in doubt, just use clear water. If you have the container, read the label for additional instructions concerning what to put on the burn, and then get to the veterinary clinic right away.

For chemicals splashed in the eyes, place the cat on his side, hold the eyelids open and flush the eyes with lukewarm water. You can also use saline solution. You may need to wrap the cat in a towel for restraint. If only one eye is affected, tilt the cat’s head back and rinse away from the unaffected eye. Use sterile gauze over the eyes and rush to the veterinarian.

Electric Shock and Electrical Burns

Shocks are usually caused by chewing on electrical cords, contact with downed power lines, or by lightning.

Never touch a cat if he’s in contact with an exposed wire. Involuntary muscle contractions may prevent him from releasing his grip on the wire. Turn the current off at the control panel, and then use a wooden broomstick or yardstick to push the cat away from the wire. The cat may be unconscious or in shock. If he isn’t breathing, administer artificial respiration. If the cat is in shock, keep him warm. Get to the veterinarian immediately.

Electric shock can cause cardiac arrest. It can also cause pulmonary edema, which is a buildup of fluid in the lungs. Signs of pulmonary edema include: breathing difficulty, open mouth breathing, and preferring to sit or stand instead of lying down. Emergency medical care is needed. Even if your cat appears to have recovered, he needs to be checked by the veterinarian. Pulmonary edema doesn’t happen right away.

You may not actually catch your cat chewing on an electrical cord but you might notice signs of electrical burns. The usual places are the corners of the mouth and on the tongue. Any inflammation in these areas, redness, blistering, or gray appearance are strong indications of electrical burns. If you notice any of these signs, seek immediate medical attention. Also, check the cords in your home to locate the one that has been damaged.

Refer to Chapter 3 for information on prevention of electrical burns.

Poisoning

Many products we use every day are poisonous to cats. Very often, these products are easily within a cat’s reach. For example, have you left cleaning agents out on the counter? What about pill bottles? Remember that antifreeze leak in the driveway? Do you know which plants are toxic to your cat? Are containers of kerosene, paint, pesticides, etc., safely sealed without drips running down the sides? Even if a cat doesn’t intend to ingest a substance, he’ll use his tongue to clean it off his fur. So even though cats may be less at risk than dogs for ingesting poisons due to the fact that they don’t typically gulp food, being fastidious groomers still puts them in danger. If the substance is toxic, it will only take a small amount to poison him.

Outdoor cats are more at risk than indoor cats. They’re in danger of coming in contact with chemicals and solvents improperly stored in garages, fertilizers, pesticides, sidewalk salt, gasoline, intentional poisoning, and antifreeze to name just a few. Antifreeze, for instance, is so toxic that less than a teaspoon can be fatal.

All too often we unintentionally poison our cats by using too many products or inappropriate products on them. In an effort to kill fleas we sometimes overdo it by using too many preparations at once or we don’t read caution labels. We also give medicines (such as aspirin) without knowing the dangerous and deadly side effects.

Signs of poisoning: Depending upon the poison, signs can range from anxiety and convulsions to depression and coma. You may notice excessive drooling, weakness, a strange odor on the breath or on the body, vomiting, breathing difficulty, or bright red color to the mouth (sign of carbon monoxide poisoning).

Cats are in danger of ingesting rodent poisons or the poisoned rodents themselves. Many rodent poisons are anticoagulants, which can cause hemorrhaging. Signs may include: blood in vomit and stool, pale mucous membranes, nosebleeds, skin bruising. When you bring your cat to the veterinarian, if possible, bring a sample of the bloody stool or vomitus.

If you suspect that your cat has been poisoned, try to identify the substance. Read the label for instructions or locate chewed leaves on plants. For help, call your local poison control center. There is also the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, which is available twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week. See Resource Guide.

Chemical Poisoning

For first aid, whether to induce vomiting depends on the type of poison ingested. An acid or alkali poison such as drain cleaners and solvents will cause more damage, burning the esophagus, throat, and mouth as it comes back up. If the cat vomits kerosene back up, it will cause additional burns. Check with your veterinarian and poison control center, but here are the general guidelines for first aid:

• For acids: give a dose of Milk of Magnesia (one teaspoon per five pounds of cat’s body weight)

• For alkalis: mix equal parts water and vinegar and give up to four teaspoons

Once the acid, alkali, or kerosene poison is in the cat’s stomach, your only course of action is to dilute it to reduce the amount of damage. Milk of Magnesia, Kaopectate, or regular milk given orally (by syringe) will help coat the intestines.

For noncorrosive poisoning (antifreeze, perfume, pills), you can induce vomiting. You need to do it before the substance gets into the cat’s system. Don’t attempt this if the cat is convulsing or is unconscious.

If you don’t know what kind of poison was ingested or no antidote is indicated, diluting the poison is the safest route. You can purchase activated charcoal as a liquid. There is also a paste form available that comes in a tube. Follow dosing instructions on the label. Activated charcoal helps to prevent absorption of the poison. Don’t confuse activated charcoal with the charcoal used for grilling—they’re not the same. Activated charcoal is purchased at a pharmacy. Don’t give activated charcoal if you’ve given syrup of ipecac, because they neutralize each other. Even if your cat has vomited, don’t give the activated charcoal if you’ve already given syrup of ipecac.

How to Induce Vomiting

Give ½–1 teaspoon syrup of ipecac (dose is about 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight). Repeat only once after twenty minutes if cat hasn’t vomited. An alternative to syrup of ipecac is to administer 1 teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide. This can be repeated in ten minutes if the cat hasn’t vomited, but don’t exceed 3 teaspoons.

You can also use Milk of Magnesia or Kaopectate (one teaspoon per five pounds of body weight) to coat the intestines and dilute the poison. If you don’t have either of those products just use regular milk. You can feed the cat as much milk as needed but do it gradually.

NO MATTER WHAT KIND OF POISON, GET IMMEDIATE VETERINARY CARE. Bring the bottle of poison with you. If the cat has vomited, bring a sample of the vomitus. During transport to the hospital, keep the cat warm, watch for signs of shock, and keep his head lower than his body to allow drainage of fluids or vomitus.

SOME POISONOUS HOUSEHOLD SUBSTANCES

acetaminophen
antifreeze
aspirin
bath oil
bleach
brake fluid
cosmetics
deodorant
detergents
disinfectant cleansers
drain cleaner
fertilizer
floor polish
furniture polish
gasoline
hair coloring
ibuprofen
weed killer
insecticides
kerosene
laxatives
mothballs
nail polish
nail polish remover
paint
paint remover
perfume
plants
prescription meds
rodenticides
shampoo
shaving lotion
shoe polish
suntan lotion
turpentine

Poisons Absorbed Through the Skin

Organophosphate flea or fly spray can be absorbed through the skin and cause metabolic disease in addition to external burning. See section on chemical burns.

Poisoning from Plants

An indoor cat with not a lot to do to keep himself occupied may nibble on houseplants. Some cats just do occasional munching, while others leave nothing but mangled stems sticking out of the soil. Depending on the plant, even a few nibbles can be very toxic. Some, like the dieffenbachia (also known as dumb cane), cause intense burning and swelling of the mouth and throat, creating difficulty in breathing. Some plants, including the dieffenbachia, will cause burning and further damage again if you attempt to induce vomiting.

For a list of poisonous plants go to the ASPCA Web site. They also have a Poison Control Hotline. See Resource Guide.

Signs of plant poisoning: Depending on the type of plant ingested, there may be excessive salivation, vomiting, bloody diarrhea, breathing difficulty, fever, abdominal pain, depression, collapse, trembling, irregular heartbeat, mouth and throat ulcers. Things can quickly deteriorate leading to convulsions, coma, cardiac arrest, and death.

Treatment for plant poisoning depends on the type of plant ingested. If you can identify the plant, contact your veterinarian and local poison control center for instructions. If you’re instructed to induce vomiting, refer to the previous section on chemical poisoning.

Administering milk will coat and soothe the intestines and will also dilute poisons. If you haven’t given syrup of ipecac to induce vomiting, you can give activated charcoal (follow dosing instructions on the label). Don’t administer activated charcoal if you have already administered syrup of ipecac because they inactivate each other.

Get the cat to the veterinarian immediately. Keep him warm and watch for signs of shock.

Falls from Windows

If your cat ever falls from a window, however low to the ground it is, get him to the veterinarian for an examination. Even if you don’t see any visible signs of injury, he may have sustained internal damage.

Preventing falls: Check all screens to be sure they’re secure and not in need of repair. Don’t trust a cat with a partially opened, unscreened window, no matter how slight the opening or how big the cat. Don’t allow cats out on balconies, even if there are railings. Just because your cat hasn’t jumped on top of the railing yet, doesn’t mean he won’t.

Insect Stings

Cats, with their fascination for anything that moves, can easily end up on the receiving end of a bee sting. Bees, wasps, hornets, and yellow jackets can inflict a painful sting. Stings to the face or mouth can cause dangerous swelling as air passageways may become blocked. Swelling around the throat can result in suffocation.

Aside from the pain and dangerous swelling, some cats, like humans, can have an allergic reaction to insect stings. If swelling persists or the cat shows any signs of breathing difficulty, drooling, seizures or vomiting, seek emergency medical care.

Treatment: Remove the stinger with tweezers. Apply a thin paste of baking soda mixed with water to relieve itching. Use ice packs or a cold compress to reduce swelling and relieve pain. If you use an ice pack, wrap a small towel around it before placing it next to the cat’s skin. Observe the cat for signs of shock. Ask your veterinarian about the use of a cortisone cream to relieve itching if the cat is very bothered by it.

For a sting inside of the mouth, seek immediate medical attention so the veterinarian can observe your cat for breathing difficulty.

If your cat is prone to being stung, keep Benadryl on hand—or better yet, keep your cat indoors.

Ticks

See Chapter 13.

Spiders

Brown recluse, tarantulas, and black widow spiders are severely dangerous. The site of the bite may be extremely painful. The cat may develop a fever, have difficulty breathing, and go into shock. Some spider bites will lead to necrosis or abscesses without having acute signs. Get immediate emergency care. If you actually see your cat get bitten, take him right to the veterinarian.

Drowning

Although a cat is able to swim a short distance, drowning often occurs when he’s unable to climb up and out of the water. For instance, cats drown in swimming pools because they can’t reach the ledge. If you have a pool and there’s a possibility that your pets may get near it, install some kind of a ramp so an animal who accidentally falls in will be able to safely climb out.

First aid for drowning involves: getting water out of the cat’s lungs. Hold the cat upside down by the hips and gently swing his body for about ten to twenty seconds or until no more water comes out. Lay the cat on his right side and begin administering mouth-to-nose resuscitation. If the heart has stopped, perform CPR.

When the cat is breathing on his own, take him immediately to the veterinarian for medical care. He may be in shock, so keep him warm.

If the cat was in cold water, wrap him in a blanket and turn the heater up in your car as you transport him to the veterinarian.

Dehydration

Dehydration is the loss of body fluids and often the loss of electrolytes (minerals). Causes of dehydration include: illness, fever, prolonged diarrhea, and prolonged vomiting.

You can test for dehydration by gently pulling up on the skin of the upper back. It should snap right back. If the skin falls back into position slowly or stays up in a peak then the cat is dehydrated. The gums are also another indicator of dehydration. Normally wet, gums will look dry and feel tacky when a cat is dehydrated.

Treatment: Prompt veterinary care is needed. IV fluid therapy will be administered to replenish fluids and restore electrolyte balance.

Disaster Preparedness

I live in Tennessee and we face the risk of tornadoes on a fairly regular basis. In fact, a few years ago we actually had a tornado touch down in our neighborhood. Fortunately, the fact that my cats are trained to go into their carriers on cue made preparing for this emergency much easier. Our area also faced a major flood in 2010 and we were ready in case we had to evacuate because our family had a disaster preparedness plan.

Your individual disaster plan should be customized based on the area in which you live and the type of potential disaster risks. View the following information as a general guideline to start you on the road to preparedness.

Your first-aid kit should be handy. Be sure to restock out-of-date supplies.

Here’s a list of supplies for your evacuation kit:

• first-aid kit as well as any current medication

• two-week supply of food and water

• hand-held manual can opener and a spoon

• small or disposable litter box, litter, and scoop

• small plastic bags for litter disposal

• trash bags

• brush and comb (to remove debris and also to avoid mats)

• flashlight with extra batteries

• battery-operated radio

• your cat’s up-to-date medical records and a current photo of your cat

• blanket and/or bedding

Keep supplies handy so in an evacuation situation everything is convenient to grab. You may have to customize or streamline your kit, depending on your storage limitations, but what’s important is to have a plan and basic kit.

Microchip your cat and have an ID tag as well, because during a crisis cats can easily get separated from their owners.

Don’t let the gas tank in your car get too low; if you have to evacuate in a hurry, you won’t lose precious time having to fill up the tank. In some crisis situations there may be long lines at gas stations.

If you have an outdoor cat, bring him in at the first sign of potential trouble or if severe weather is in the forecast.

In hurricane risk areas, arrange in advance for friends or relatives who are more inland to take you and your cats in.

Don’t leave your cat behind when evacuating your home. This is very important because the odds are great that if left behind, your cat could be killed or lost. The cat is at high risk of severe injury or death due to collapsing structures, flooding, fire, and electrical shock. A terrified cat can also be impossible for rescuers to find. Your cat’s only chance for safety and survival is if you take him with you or make arrangements ahead of time for him to stay somewhere else. Keep a list of veterinarians in areas outside of the danger zones so you can either keep your cat there, or get him medical attention if needed during or after the disaster. Keep a list of pet-friendly hotels as well. If you can’t return to your home after the disaster because it’s unsafe or needs extensive repair, your cat may be able to stay at pet-friendly hotels, the veterinary hospital, a boarding facility, or with a friend/relative in an area unaffected by the disaster. The key is to be prepared and have this list of possibilities in advance. Red Cross shelters DO NOT accept pets.

Disasters don’t always happen when you’re home to care for your cat. Work out a mutual plan with a neighbor so your cat will be taken just in case you aren’t able to get home in time. Exchange house keys and work out a disaster plan with a trusted pet-owning neighbor so you can help each other’s pets in a crisis.

Place a sticker on your door or window to alert rescuers or firefighters that there are pets inside. These stickers are available through pet retailers and the ASPCA.

For more information on disaster preparation, refer to the Resource Guide.