Baldface Lodge’s squad of snowcats can definitely spirit you to fresh snow, though you should have some familiarity with deep powder skiing/riding before you arrive.
Baldface Lodge’s squad of snowcats can definitely spirit you to fresh snow, though you should have some familiarity with deep powder skiing/riding before you arrive.
KOOTENAY
RECOMMENDED BY John Laing
Nelson, a town in the Kootenay region of southeastern British Columbia that’s been shaped as much by its silver-rush past as its (reputed) cannabis-growing present, is a hub for snowcat- and heli-skiing operations in the surrounding Kootenay Range of the Selkirk Mountains. For John Laing, the Nelson cat-boarding experience is defined by Baldface Lodge. “The way Baldface has embraced the sport of snowboarding makes it special,” he began. “You’re a helicopter or a cat ride away from civilization, far-removed from the hype that’s come to surround the sport. You’re hanging with a small group in the middle of nowhere, embracing what snowboarding is all about. All the guests and guides during a given week grow to depend on each other—though the riding is not as steep as in some places, there’s always potential for avalanches. When you’re back in the lodge at the end of the day, looking at photos and film of the day’s experiences, you feel like, Yes, this is why we do this. The soul of the sport, the passion is there.”
Baldface Lodge was the brainchild of Jeff Pensiero, a former snowboard rep, who set out to find a spot in interior B.C. to establish a cat-boarding lodge. He (along with his wife, Paula, and a college pal, Jim Fraps) found a spot across Kootenay Lake from Nelson—either a ten-minute helicopter ride if the skies are clear or a slightly longer boat ride and snowcat conveyance if the weather is in. The site, which sits at an elevation of 6,750 feet among the jagged peaks of the Kootenay, boasts five peaks linked by a ridgeline; the highest peak the Baldface cats reach is at 7,678 feet. With financial support that included two members of the rock band the Foo Fighters (whose investment helped buy Baldface’s first cat) and the promotional support of snowboarding legend Craig Kelly (before his death in 2003), the lodge became a reality. Today, guests have access to more than thirty-two thousand acres of terrain through some one hundred miles of cat trails. With an average of five hundred inches of snow a year, finding fresh powder poses little challenge, though finding the stamina to ride down through twenty thousand vertical feet of it a day may prove daunting to some.
“I have to tip my hat to Jeff and his team,” John continued. “They really understand what the region’s mountains have to offer for the backcountry snowboarder. Beyond the tremendous terrain and the very comfortable lodge, Jeff has assembled a great team of guides. In my experience, Canadian backcountry guides are the best. For them, safety is the first priority in guiding. In Canada, guides need to attend a two-week course on Kokanee Glacier just to reach Level I certification. The guides at Baldface can tell you at five A.M. what the snow will be doing at nine A.M.” John went on to describe a typical day at Baldface.
“A buffet breakfast is placed out at seven A.M. Before or after, you have the option to do some yoga to loosen up; the lodge has an instructor on staff. You pack your own lunch, which you place in a bin with your other gear, which is then placed in the snowcat. Then you’re off. On your first day, the guides will give you a refresher course on using a transceiver, including some hands-on training. There are never too many times that you can be refreshed about avalanche safety. The first run, you follow your guide closely as he checks out the snow. After that, it’s game on.”
Given the terrain and the demands of the Kootenay’s extreme powder, Baldface boarding may not appeal to everyone. The lodge’s website states that
if you have never skied powder or shy away from it at your local resort, this is not the place to learn. If you are expecting to ski 50-degree shoots and huck 30-foot airs every run you will be disappointed. We only ski this type of terrain when conditions and group abilities allow. To increase your opportunity to ski and ride expert terrain, book an entire snowcat with like-minded friends and we’ll do our best to take you on our most exciting (but safe) runs.
Even with these caveats, most agree that Baldface offers a special experience. “During my visits, we averaged about twelve runs a day,” John said. “There are a few runs that have stuck in my mind. One is out to the north, an area called the Burn. It’s a mountainside that went up in flames some years ago; you ride a long, steep path through a forest of ghostly trees. You can run your finger along a tree and still get soot on your glove. Another is Cheeky Monkey. It stands out for its steepness, top to bottom, though there are some nice pillows in the run.” During the day, each cat is accompanied by a photographer, who captures some of the day’s best moments. Once you’ve returned to the lodge, drinks, hot appetizers, and massages await. Before dinner is served, everyone gathers by the big screen for a slide show of the day’s photos.
Well-appointed accommodations, nice amenities (including a sauna), and deep powder all make for a memorable visit. But for John Laing, what makes Baldface special is the people. “They have a big staff at Baldface, and everyone—from the guides to the kitchen staff—is passionate about snowboarding, and this enhances the experience. On one occasion, I happened to be there on Craig Kelly’s birthday. He was considered a god of the Kootenays—still is, almost ten years after his death. Some of the younger snowboarders don’t know much about the pioneers, what they did to help establish the sport. At Baldface, he is remembered with reverence.”
JOHN LAING is a senior editor at Frequency: The Snowboarder’s Journal. Snowboarding has taken him all over the world.
If You Go
Getting There: Visitors from the United States generally fly to Spokane, Washington, and either rent a car for the 3.5-hour drive to Nelson, B.C., or take a shuttle offered by Classic Limousine (509-924-4194). Baldface will arrange transport from Nelson. Spokane is served by several carriers, including Alaska Airlines (800-252-7522; www.alaskaair.com) and Delta Airlines (800-221-1212; www.delta.com).
Season: Baldface generally operates from mid-December to early April. Late January through mid-March usually offers the best snow.
Lift Tickets: Packages that include five nights of lodging and four days of cat skiing range from $2,094.34 to $4,347.81 (CAD), depending on accommodation type and time of year. See details at www.baldface.net.
Level of Difficulty: You’ll cover at least fifteen thousand feet of vertical a day; Baldface recommends you have at least intermediate/advanced-level powder skills.
Accommodations: Guests at Baldface Lodge can opt to stay in the main lodge or one of seven chalets.
