At Val d’Isère, many of the more challenging runs are on the lower half of the mountain.
VAL D’ISÈRE
RECOMMENDED BY Jane Jacquemod
Mention Val d’Isère in a room of well-traveled skiers and boarders, and you’re likely to arouse strong emotions. Its proponents may call it a nirvana for skilled alpinists with abundant snow and an après-ski scene that’s second to none; its naysayers may call it overrated and overpriced, a mega-resort overrun by British yahoos. Most will eventually agree that it’s a place you need to see for yourself.
“Before anything else, Val d’Isère is a high-mountain village, and this makes the area different from many others,” Jane Jacquemod described. “It’s been a village since at least the eleventh century. At most places, you might have a village down in the valley, and a ski resort above. We have both a village life and a ski resort life. When I first visited as a student in the early 1970s, I thought it was the most fantastic place I had ever seen. I came back again a few months later, and I’ve been here ever since.”
Val d’Isère rests in the Tarentaise Valley of southeastern France, adjoining the border with Italy and Vanoise National Park. (As the crow flies, it’s fifty miles due south of Chamonix.) No valley contains more world-class ski areas than the Tarentaise; neighbors include Courchevel, Meribel, Les Arcs, and La Plagne. Early visitors came in the summer to let their animals feed in the high-mountain pastures. By the latter part of the nineteenth century, tourists seeking fresh mountain air were drawn to Val d’Isère for its spectacular scenery. The early twentieth century saw growing interest in winter sports, fueled in part by the success of Louis Bonnevie, a local man who became the French ski champion in 1906. Yet it wasn’t until the 1930s that the first lift was installed at Val d’Isère; a full-fledged resort emerged after World War II.
Today, Val d’Isère is divided into three main sectors: Bellevarde (which is home to Val d’Isère’s two renowned downhill courses, the OK and the Face); Solaise (which is mostly given over to easier terrain and boasts ample sunshine during clear weather); and Le Fornet (which has the highest lift service and is home to Glacier de Pissaillas). Val d’Isère is part of L’Espace Killy, which is touted as the highest extended ski terrain in the world; Tignes is the sister resort. L’Espace Killy extends more than ten miles from the Pissaillas Glacier to Tignes’s Grande Motte glacier; it’s possible to ski or board from one end of the valley to the other. In total, L’Espace Killy boasts over 180 miles of on-piste terrain spread over 158 trails.
“You can easily spend a week’s holiday without skiing the same slope twice,” Jane continued. “Personally, I enjoy staying up high, above the tree line. These days, I’m not looking for especially tough skiing. I like nice, calm sunny slopes. At Val d’Isère, many of the easier slopes are on the upper half of the mountain. You have to choose a little more carefully to find a gentle way back down into the village. Because we’re at such a high elevation [nearly all of the village and mountain is above six thousand feet], we’re above the fog that you get in some places. If guests are seeking a trail to conquer, I’ll recommend The Face. As the name implies, it’s right on the face of Mount Bellevarde, and has everything—steeps and, often, many moguls. It was the site of all the men’s alpine events in the 1992 Olympics, and was used for the World Championships in 2009.”
L’Espace Killy’s vast on-piste terrain is impressive, yet it’s dwarfed by the almost endless off-piste opportunities between Val d’Isère and Tignes. For expert skiers/boarders, this is the main attraction. A few of the better-known off-piste tours include Vallée Perdue, Le Tour du Charvet, Le Col Pers, Col du Montet, Col de Vache, and Le Pisteur’s Couloir.
If you’re not in the backcountry, thoughts will eventually turn to a break and some sustenance. “I should say that most French skiers like their lunch,” Jane added. “Certainly, there are youngsters who head out with some snacks in a backpack and ski hard until the lifts close, but most like a nice stop in the middle of the day. Val d’Isère has many excellent altitude restaurants. One that I enjoy is Folie Douce-La Fruitière, which is at the La Daille midstation.” La Fruitière has the décor of a milk cooperative, and boasts a cheese cellar. One of its signature dishes is Feuilleté Savoyard, melted local cheese and ham ensconced in a light fluffy pastry crust. “On Le Fornet, there’s another place that’s quite good, L’Edelweiss,” Jane said. “It has a classical menu for the region, and a lovely view from a beautiful terrace.
“When you come off the mountain at Val d’Isère, there’s plenty to do. If it’s a sunny day, you might stop at the bottom of the slopes at Le Barrillon for a beer or a Coke. It’s just a little snack bar, but they have chairs outside. If you go into the village, there are many options. I like Salon des Fous. It’s small and lively, a nice place for a glass of wine. There are mostly French speakers here. The Moris Pub is a bit more of a gathering place for British people, and they have live music. I should mention that almost everyone at Val d’Isère speaks English. I know that some people get a bit stressed if they think they have to speak French, but that’s not the case here. Language barriers aren’t an issue.”
If you have energy for a special meal once après-ski activities have concluded, consider a trip to L’Atelier d’Edmond. “The restaurant is built in a chalet,” Jane said. “It’s a reproduction of a carpenter’s workshop, based on the workshop of the founder’s grandfather. It’s Michelin-starred—you’re always going to get something special there.”
JANE JACQUEMOD came to nearby Grenoble University in the early 1970s from Bristol, England, and she never really left. Today, she serves as director of press and communications for the Val d’Isère Tourist Board. Though she prefers mellower slopes today, there’s adventurous skiing in her DNA; her daughter, Ingrid Jacquemod, has competed in several Winter Olympics (2002 and 2006).
If You Go
Getting There: Most international travelers will fly into Geneva (one hundred miles from Val d’Isère), which is served by most major carriers. Regular buses will spirit you to the resort.
Season: Val d’Isère is generally open from December to early May.
Lift Tickets: Day passes begin at 45 euros; multi-day passes are available.
Level of Difficulty: L’Espace Killy boasts 180 miles of trails, classified as follows: 61 percent beginner; 28 percent intermediate; 11 percent expert. Note: Many regulars feel that some of the beginner and intermediate terrain here would be classified as intermediate or expert terrain at other resorts.
Accommodations: The Val d’Isère website (www.valdisere.com) lists a range of lodging options.
