Fact file
Area: 108,888 sq km (42,042 sq miles)
Capital: Guatemala City
Population: 15.47 million
Currency: Guatemalan quetzal
Weights and measures: Generally metric
Electricity: 110 volts
Dialling code: 502
Internet abbreviation: GT
Getting there
By air from the US, Canada, Europe, Australia, and New Zealand
Most flights to Guatemala are routed through US hub cities, including Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, and Newark. You’ll also find flights via other Mexican and Central American hubs, including El Salvador (with Avianca; www.avianca.com), Mexico City (Aeroméxico; www.aeromexico.com and Interjet; www.interjet.com), and Panama (Copa; www.copair.com). Flying from Canada, you’ll have to travel via one of the US gateway cities.
The main direct air itinerary linking Europe to Guatemala is from Madrid, flying with Spanish airline Iberia (www.copair.com). Travelers from the UK and Ireland can also choose to fly via one of the US gateway cities, or via Mexican or Central American hubs. All international flights land at La Aurora International Airport (tel: 502 2332 6084), 4 miles (6km) south of Guatemala City, except for a few regional flights from Belize and Cancún which land at Mundo Maya Airport in Flores (near Tikal).
By road
Buses are a popular way to enter Guatemala. Several bus services run from Mexico, Honduras, Belize, and El Salvador into Guatemala with the San Salvador–Guatemala City connection among the most frequent.
Getting around
Guatemala is a relatively small country, but the mountainous terrain and ancient buses mean that travel can be time-consuming. Stick to the main highways and things move reasonably well, but many of the minor routes are unpaved, and the going can be slow.
A public bus service departs from outside Aurora International Airport heading for Guatemala City’s historic center, Zona 1, but it’s easiest and safer to travel by taxi; expect to pay around US$12–14 to travel into Zona 1. Travelers to Antigua can catch one of the shuttle buses (around US$12) leaving at fairly regular intervals.
By air
The only scheduled domestic flight currently in operation is the 50-minute Guatemala City–Flores flight (to visit Tikal), which saves an 8–10-hour trip by road – although you can expect to pay a fairly steep US$210–240 for a round-trip ticket. Avianca (www.avianca.com) and TAG (www.tag.com.gt) both offer flights.
By bus
The regular Guatemalan bus, called a camioneta, is an old North American school bus. It’s three to a seat, and as many as possible standing in the aisle. Progress is always pretty slow, but never dull. Expect to pay about Q8 an hour. There are also first-class buses (pullmanes) that connect the major towns along the main highways and into Mexico and the other Central American countries. They are a little quicker, don’t stop so frequently, and you’ll have a seat reservation. Expect to pay Q10–12 an hour.
Shuttle buses, usually modern minibuses, provide a useful, fast, and comfortable alternative. They mainly cover the prime tourist destinations, but are increasingly common throughout the country. Expect to pay about US$5 per hour.
Another method of transportation now common in Guatemala is non-tourist minibuses (microbuses) which have replaced the old chicken buses on many paved-road routes.
By boat
Boats connect the villages around Lago de Atitlán, Puerto Barrios, and Livingston, and Livingston and Río Dulce town. These routes all have daily services, and it’s usually not necessary to make advance reservations.
By car
Driving in Guatemala can be a hair-raising experience due to a combination of local practices – such as overtaking on blind corners – and the rough, unpaved condition of many roads bar the main ones. Traffic congestion is high in the capital, and the Interamericana and the highway to Puerto Barrios tend to be busy. Renting a car here costs US$35–70 a day.
A–Z
Accommodations
Accommodations in Guatemala range from luxury colonial hotels to backpackers’ hostels. There are plenty of budget hotels to choose from and an increasing number of boutique places. Pensiones or hospedajes have very basic rooms, and these guesthouses are usually run by local families. Room rates are at their highest during Semana Santa (the week leading up to Easter Sunday), Christmas to New Year, and July and August. Keep in mind that hotels sell out quickly during Semana Santa, particularly in hotspots like Antigua, so book far in advance.
Budgeting for your trip
Guatemala is an inexpensive country in which to travel. Both accommodations and food are very affordable, so you can easily save in those areas, and then have extra for organized tours (where costs can add up) as well as souvenir-shopping – it’s hard to leave Guatemala without at least a few pieces of its lovely colorful weavings. Backpackers can budget US$25 per day or less (for a hotel stay, food from a comedor/market stand and travel); ‘mid-range’ travelers perhaps US$40–50 per person a day; and for those looking to travel in real comfort, US$80–120 per person a day. The Guatemalan currency is the quetzal, and has been fairly stable over the last decade.
Children
Guatemala is an inviting county for kids. For starters, kids are often enthusiastically embraced – at restaurants, stores, hotels, and even museums. In fact, the staffers will usually go out of their way to provide an extra bed or a child’s portion. Guatemala’s colorful, fascinating culture is also very accessible to the younger set, from weaving co-ops where they can observe Maya craftspeople to Maya temples that look right out of ancient picturebooks. And kid-friendly outdoor activities abound, including ziplining.
Climate
The Maya region is subtropical, and temperatures are governed far less by the seasons than by altitude. The rainy season is from May to October, but it very rarely rains all day. Often mornings are clear, followed by an afternoon downpour. In most of the region, maximum temperatures are kept to a moderate level (25–30°C/75–85°F), because of cloud cover, and nights are warm. November to April is the dry season, when the skies are usually clear. At this time of year it can get quite chilly at night anywhere in the region, but especially in the Guatemalan and Chiapas highlands, where frosts are not unknown in high-altitude towns. On the coast, severe storms can strike during hurricane season (June to October), but warnings are usually excellent locally. It is worth bearing in mind that at the height of the rainy season, visiting Petén’s more remote ruins can land you in thigh-deep mud.
What to wear
Pack lightweight, breathable clothing, and sturdy walking shoes. For hiking, consider wearing long sleeves and lights pants to guard against bugs. Also, remember to bring appropriate items to guard against the sun, particularly if you have sensitive skin – wide-brimmed hats, sunscreen, long sleeves. In the big cities, dining and nightlife can require more formal wear – dress shirts for men, and a skirt or dress for women. The highlands gets chilly, so bring a light jacket or fleece.
Crime and safety
It’s important to take some basic precautions when visiting Guatemala – but keep in mind that crime against tourists is still relatively rare, and the majority of visitors will not experience trouble of any kind. Having said that, general crime levels are high in Guatemala, and tourists have been targeted by (occasionally armed) criminals on the roads and on buses. It’s a good idea to register with your embassy on arrival and to keep abreast of what’s going on – Inguat, the Guatemalan tourist board, provides up-to-date security information via their Asistur line which can be reached on tel: 1500. The US State Department (http://travel.state.gov/travel) and the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office’s travel advice pages for Guatemala also give a solid overview of the current security situation (www.fco.gov.uk).
Customs regulations
Duty free: 80 cigarettes or 100g of tobacco; 1.5l of alcohol; cameras for personal use; no restriction on perfume. Restricted items: fresh food.
Disabled travelers
Travelers with disabilities will find it challenging to travel in Guatemala. Access for wheelchair users is generally minimal, and mobility is hampered by potholed sidewalks and roads, cobblestones, and a lack of elevators outside of five-star city-center hotels. Travel by public transportation is also difficult, but note that a number of privately run shuttles that ply the main tourism towns can assist passengers with disabilities. Thankfully, many Guatemalan hotels are low-rise, so even outside the more upscale hotels with their elevators and ramps, you shouldn’t have too much of a problem finding accessible sleeping quarters. There are organizations that will direct you to tour operators that are well set up for disabled travelers. Try Twin Peaks (Press Box 129, Vancouver, WA 98666; tel: 360-694 2462; www.twinpeakstravel.com) or consult the website Global Access (www.globalaccessnews.com) for excellent travel advice for the disabled.
Eating out
Guatemala has a range of eateries, from upscale restaurants in the big cities to comedores, which are the local equivalent of an American diner. Guatemala also abounds with tasty street snacks – like pupusas, thick corn tortillas packed with fillings like cheese and pork – but note that hygiene standards on the street can vary, so take care.
Maize stars in some from on most Guatemalan menus, including tortillas, which are best served while still warm – often wrapped inside a cotton cloth. After maize, beans (frijoles) are the second fundamental ingredient in the regional diet. Black beans are the most popular variety, but red pinto (literally ‘painted’) beans are also eaten. Chilies are native to the region, with over 100 varieties. Chili is commonly served in a salsa sauce that you will find at every dinner table. In Guatemala this salsa is often just called picante (spice) and can be from a bottle or freshly made. As for fresh fruits: bananas are everywhere, while avocados, tomatoes, blueberries, raspberries, apples, oranges, limes, papayas, and mangoes also feature. The creamy pink flesh of the zapote fruit, for example, is amazing. Also wonderfully fresh are fruit juices and licuados, a type of fruit milkshake. Historically, turkey, wild pig, and iguana were all eaten, but, except in jungle areas, you will find that these days chicken, pork, and beef are the meats specified on most menus, either grilled, fried, or in a stew. You will find plentiful seafood served near the coast. Snapper, grouper, barracuda, and shark are all popular, while lobster is on many upscale restaurant menus, as well as shrimp, crab, and conch; ceviche (raw seafood marinated in lime juice) is a favorite in many areas.
Embassies and consulates
Canada: 8th floor, Edificio Edyma Plaza, 13a Calle 8-44, Zona 10, Guatemala City; tel: 2333 6102; www.canadainternational.gc.ca
UK: 11th floor, Torre Internacional, 16a Calle 00-55, Zona 10, Guatemala City; tel: 2367 5425; http://ukinguatemala.fco.gov.uk
US: Av La Reforma 7-01, Zona 10, Guatemala City; tel: 2326 4000; https://gt.usembassy.gov/embassy/guatemalacity/
Emergencies
In case of any emergency, dial 1500 from anywhere in Guatemala, which connects you to a bilingual operator who will put you in contact with the police, fire department, or ambulance. For National Police, you can also call 110.
Etiquette
Politeness, a smile, and an effort to speak a little Spanish will help you get more out of Guatemala. Avoid being openly critical of the country’s problems, including corruption, inefficiency, and poverty – Guatemalans recognize their country’s difficulties, but some are sensitive to criticism.
Try not to talk too loudly, as the Maya in particular find Westerners overbearingly loud. If you visit one of the smaller highland markets in Guatemala (not Chichicastenango or San Francisco El Alto), one of the most interesting aspects is how quiet the whole affair is, with business being conducted sotto voce.
Public nudity is offensive in most of the region. It’s also advisable to cover your legs and shoulders when you visit churches – short shorts are usually frowned upon.
Festivals
January
El Cristo Negro, Esquipulas, January 15. Pilgrims from around the country – and the world – descend on the Basilica to pay tribute to the Black Christ.
April
Holy Week. Religious ceremonies and processions across the country, from Antigua to Quetzaltenango.
July
La Fiesta Nacional Indígena de Guatemala, Cobán, late July to early August. One of the region’s great celebrations of Maya culture, with rollicking street fairs, parades, and parties.
August
Fiesta de la Virgen de la Asunción, countrywide, August 15. The patron saint of Guatemala City is celebrated around the country, with parades, fairs, and concerts.
September
Guatemala’s Independence Day, countrywide, September 15. A national holiday, with parades and concerts, around the nation.
November
Día de los Muertos (All Saints’ Day), countrywide, November 1. Guatemalans remember the dead, with flowers, visits to the cemetery, and other colorful celebrations, including flying massive kites in Todos Santos.
National Garifuna Day, Livingston, November 26. The Garifuna of Livingston party during the days leading up to and after November 26, with Garifuna food, music, and dance.
December
Quema del Diablo, countrywide, December 7. Bonfires light up the streets in towns around the country as effigies of Satan, old furniture, and are burned.
Fiesta de Santo Tomás, Chichicastenango, December 21. The patron saint of Chichicastenango is celebrated with parades, fireworks, fairs, and the famous Palo Volador (‘flying pole’).
Gay and lesbian travelers
Guatemala has a small gay scene, centered in the capital where there are a few gay clubs and bars. While it’s best to be discreet (holding hands in public is unwise), most gays and lesbians find little local hostility. Exercise common sense and avoid the more macho men-only cantinas.
Health and medical care
Hygiene standards are much better than in many other parts of the developing world, but diarrhea may still strike no matter how careful you are. Stomach upsets are likely to be your main concern, but you should also be inoculated against polio, cholera, tetanus, typhoid, and hepatitis A. None of these diseases is at all common in the Maya countries, immunization is not a mandatory requirement, and the risk is very low, but every year there are cases.
Mosquitoes are likely to be much more of a concern, and it’s imperative to minimize the chances of being bitten, especially in remote, lowland areas. Diligently apply repellent (repelente) to all exposed areas of skin, especially around your ankles.
Malaria is present in rainforest (and some lowland) areas but is not at all common across the region. There have been no reports of chloroquine-resistant strains of mosquito in the region, but for the latest information check with a specialized travel health clinic before you go.
Dengue fever, carried by a daytime mosquito, is on the increase worldwide, and there have been a few outbreaks in the Maya region. It’s normally caught by being bitten near pools or puddles of dirty, stagnant water. The symptoms are fever, severe headache, complete loss of energy, and usually a skin rash. There is one rare strain, dengue hemorrhagic, that can be very serious but is rarely fatal in adults: in most cases the body heals itself within a few days. There’s no vaccine for any strain of dengue, so you should take great precaution against being bitten; the only remedy is to take complete rest until the dengue clears, which seriously interrupts your holiday. Take high-factor sunscreen, a hat for protection against the sun, and drink plenty of (bottled) water to avoid dehydration, especially at high altitudes.
Don’t drink tap water and don’t brush your teeth with it – contaminated water can transmit the hepatitis A virus and is a major cause of sickness in Guatemala. In the cities, drinking water is heavily chlorinated but should still be avoided.
Insurance
You must have medical insurance before coming to Guatemala. Public hospitals should generally be avoided if possible; the private sector is more efficient and better equipped. Your embassy will have a list of English-speaking doctors and dentists. In remote areas, it may be best to get to a city as soon as possible if you can travel. Keep all receipts and contact your insurance company immediately if you do need medical treatment.
Alerta Médica is a private medical emergency assistance service. Contact them by phoning 1711.
Hospitals
Centro Médico, 6 Av 3-47, Zona 10, Guatemala City; tel: 2332 3555
Santa Lucía Hospital, Calzada Santa Lucía Sur 7, Antigua; tel: 7832 3122
Centro Médico Galeno, 2 Calle 3-08, Zona 3, Cobán; tel: 7952 3175
Media
The main daily newspapers are Prensa Libre, Siglo XXI, El Periódico, and La Hora. All are published in Spanish. The Guatemala Times (www.guatemala-times.com) is a good online source of news. There is also the free, monthly English-language magazine The Revue (www.revuemag.com), produced in Antigua. There are hundreds of radio stations, devoted to everything from merengue to Evangelical worship. La Marca (94.1 FM) is a popular reggaetón station, while Atmosfera (96.5 FM) plays rock and indie. You’ll also find dozens of television stations in Guatemala, and several foreign channels (including CNN) are broadcast on cable, which is available in most of the main towns.
Money
Debit cards are the most popular way to access money, and credit cards are useful in hotels, restaurants, and stores. Visa and MasterCard are widely recognized. Most towns will have an ATM or two for 24-hour withdrawals. Travelers’ checks can be cashed in many banks. Make sure you get your travelers’ checks issued in US dollars (other currencies are rarely accepted) and from an established name such as Thomas Cook or American Express. The Guatemalan quetzal comes in Q0.50, Q1, Q5, Q10, Q20, Q50, Q100, and Q200 bills. It is divided into 100 centavos.
Opening hours
Businesses and offices are generally open between 9am and 5pm, but they often close for an hour or two between noon and 2pm. Many banks stay open until 7pm (and even 8pm), especially in tourism-orientated towns. Archeological sites are usually open daily from 8am to 5pm (Tikal from 4am to 8pm), and nature reserves are also usually open daily, such as the Quetzal Reserve (6am–4pm) and Cerro Cahui (6.30am to dusk).
Postal services
There are post offices (correos) in every town. Air mail takes between three days and a week to reach North America, but between one and two weeks to get to Europe. The postal service is quite reliable, but many people choose to use a courier company to send anything important overseas.
Public holidays
January 1 New Year’s Day
Semana Santa Holy Week, the four days preceding Easter
May 1 Labor Day
June 30 Army Day, anniversary of the 1871 revolution
August 15 Guatemala City fiesta
September 15 Independence Day
October 12 Discovery of America
October 20 Revolution Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 24 Christmas Eve
December 25 Christmas Day
December 31 New Year’s Eve
Shopping
Few visitors leave Guatemala without at least a few Guatemalan crafts (artesanías), which reveal the country’s rich Maya cultural traditions. Don’t miss a trip to the highlands, where every village has its own craft specialty or designs – and its own market day. Undoubtedly, Guatemala’s grandest craft is textiles, which are woven into a rainbow of brilliant colors. Markets in Guatemala City and Antigua feature an excellent assortment of highland crafts, from textiles to basketry to silver to ceramics, while the large highland markets of Chichicastenango and San Francisco el Alto are also splendid.
Telecommunications
Telephones
Cellular coverage is extensive across most of the country, and compatible with many North American cellphones. Pay-as-you-go cellphones come cheap, and inserting a local SIM card into your own handset is also a possibility if your phone is unlocked. To make a collect-call (reverse charge call) to the US, Canada, and Mexico from Guatemala, tel: 147120 from a Telgua phone. Local calls in Guatemala are very cheap, at around US$0.10 per minute; national calls work out at around US$0.35 per minute.
You can buy a local prepaid phone card, such as a Telgua one, which you insert in street telephones to make calls. Using an international phone charge card is another option. All the main North American telecoms companies issue these, including AT&T, Canada Direct, MCI, and Sprint; get in touch with your phone company before you leave. Directory Assistance is 124 and the International Call Operator is 171.
Internet
Increasingly, hotels in Guatemala have free or inexpensive Wi-Fi. Otherwise, there is an abundant number of internet cafés throughout the country. Rates are around US$0.80–3 an hour. Connection speeds are usually rapid in the main centers, much less so once you get off the beaten track. Wi-Fi is widespread in towns popular with tourists, though connections are usually slow.
Time zone
US Central standard time; GMT minus 6 hours.
Tourist information
Inguat (www.visitguatemala.com), the Guatemalan tourist board, has offices throughout the country.
Guatemala City: 7 Av 1-17, Zona 4, Centro Cívico; tel: (502) 2421 2800; email: info@inguat.gob.gt. Also has a kiosk at the airport (email: info-aeropuertoaurora@inguat.gob.gt.
Antigua: 2 Calle Oriente No. 11 Casa del Turista; tel: (502) 7832 3782; email: info-antigua@inguat.gob.gt
Quetzaltenango: 7 Calle 11-35, Zona 1, Edificio Casa de la Cultura; tel: (502) 7761 4931; email: info-xela@inguat.gob.gt
Panajachel: Calle Principal 0-87, Zona 2 Panajachel, Solola; tel: (502) 2421 2953; email: info-panajachel@inguat.gob.gt
Isla de Flores: Playa Sur, Flores, Petén; tel: (502) 4210 9992; email: info-ciudadflores@inguat.gob.gt. Also has a kiosk at Petén’s airport (email: info-mundomaya@inguat.gob.gt).
Antigua has tourist police (corner of 4 Av Norte and the plaza), who can help with security problems.
Other helpful websites:
Visas and passports
All visitors require a valid passport to enter Guatemala for stays of up to 90 days; citizens other than those of the USA, UK, most EU states, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand will also need a Guatemalan visa, which they can obtain from a Guatemalan embassy or consulate. The initial 90-day period can be extended by a further 90 days by visiting Migración in Guatemala City (6 Avenida 3-11, Zona 4; tel: 2411 2411). The extension will cost you US$17. There is no charge if you enter or leave overland at one of the more remote border crossings, though officials often demand a small fee.
There’s a $30 departure tax on all international flights, but it’s usually included in your ticket price; confirm with your airline. Separately, you often have to pay an airport security fee of around Q20 in cash at the airport.
What to read
The Ancient Maya by Robert Sharer. Authoritative, formidable study of the Maya.
Popol Vuh translated by Dennis Tedlock. The K’iche’ ‘bible,’ the masterful book of creation that is both one of the most important pre-Columbian texts in the Americas and also an incredibly rich and imaginative read.
Sweet Waist of America by Anthony Daniels. Mainly concerned with Guatemala, the book was written toward the end of the civil war. Daniels interviews a cross-section of Central American society including Guatemalan soldiers, priests, schoolchildren, and two military dictators.
I, Rigoberta Menchú – an Indian Woman in Guatemala by Rigoberta Menchú. Extremely harrowing autobiography of the K’iche’ Maya Nobel Prize winner, who lost her mother, father, and brothers in the civil war. The second volume, Crossing Borders, is a much lighter, more optimistic read, dealing with her life in exile and her return to Guatemala.