Here is a world in itself. The Canapé world presents all sorts of problems and rules which have been laid down by one person and another. I think I shall disregard the majority of them and proceed under my own power and see if I can’t reach a logical and fairly simple conclusion. First of all, every well-built house needs a good foundation. We have the same problem here; so let us build some foundations. Here are bread bases, toasts, biscuit and cracker bases, brioche, puff paste, and flaky pastry for these foundations.
BREAD BASES
Many people cut plain bread into shapes and build their canapés on these. I feel this is an insult to the guest and represents an utter disregard for the topping. Bread dries out or becomes soggy and is usually no aid to the flavor of the canapé. The one exception, in my mind, is a heavy Russian or Swedish rye bread, or a very dark and firm pumpernickel. These are ideal bases for certain mixtures which I shall list.
Tiny French rolls and thin French bread are used for certain recipes. The rolls and “French flutes,” as they are called, are, by nature, crisp and crusty and add flavor and zest to the stuffing.
Toasted bread is widely used. It may be delicately colored, freshly toasted bread or the slowly dried so-called Melba toast.
MELBA TOAST
Cut the bread in thin slices, an eighth or three sixteenths of an inch thick, and cut in various shapes for canapés. Place these on racks; the usual cake-cooling racks are ideal. Pile the racks one on top of the other with one empty rack on top. Place this stack in a 225° F. oven and leave it till the bread is thoroughly dried and of a delicate color. The toast may be stored in a tightly covered tin box for a week or more. If you are going to use rather damp pastes which might make your toast soggy, dip each toasted piece in raw white of egg and return to a warming oven or to a 150° F. oven shortly before using it. The egg white forms a resistent coating and makes the toast less absorbent.
Biscuits, or crackers, make ideal foundations for certain canapés but great care must be used in selecting them. I feel that some of the domestic biscuits or crackers have achieved a great deal of recent years. There are many good brands of imported cocktail biscuits to be found in the specialty shops, too.
The English biscuits, particularly the Romary, are especially prepared and baked for cocktail biscuits and are, in my opinion, a perfect base for cold or hot canapés. Most of them may be placed in tins and kept on the supply shelf.
It is plainly and simply a case of experimenting and finding the readily available biscuit that suits your own needs and adopting that one into your household scheme.
FRIED TOASTS
Toast thinly sliced bread on one side only. Melt a generous amount of butter in a skillet, an iron one if possible, and keep the heat low. Place toasts, untoasted side down, in the butter and allow them to sauté gently till browned. Drain on paper towels.
BRIOCHE
This deliciously light and flavorful bread of France is a most perfect companion to a great many hors d’oeuvre. It is to be found in most French bakeshops in this country in its usual headed-loaf shape. You may order it baked in a plain loaf which is more practical for canapés or in tiny molds which are called for in certain recipes.
In case you wish to make your own, here is the finest recipe I have ever found for brioche. You may experiment with shapes and forms till you are satisfied:
½ cup lukewarm water
4 cups flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup melted butter
6 eggs
Dissolve yeast cake in lukewarm water and add one cup flour. Mix till smooth and set aside till this “sponge” doubles in size, about two hours at room temperature of 70° F.
Mix the rest of the flour, the sugar, salt, and butter till smooth, and add three eggs, not beaten. Beat this mixture for two minutes and add the rest of the eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition. Add the sponge and beat smooth. Let rise for six hours at room temperature. Beat again for three minutes and place in the refrigerator for from twelve to twenty-four hours.
To bake, remove from the refrigerator, tear off small pieces according to the size of your pans, and knead them into ball-shaped pieces. These should fill each pan two thirds to three quarters full. For the individual service you will want very small pans—about one inch in diameter. Let the dough rise again to double its bulk, brush with milk, and bake in a moderate—350° F.—oven. The length of baking time depends on the size of your pans: Forty-five minutes for a loaf; twenty-five minutes for muffin size; ten to fifteen minutes for tiny ones.
The traditional brioche is made in a small fluted pan and wears a top-knot. It may be varied to suit your own ideas. For sandwiches, a loaf is the most practical.
Pastry is necessary in the preparation of many of the recipes in this book. I include two of my recipes which are particularly adapted to the service of all sorts of hors d’oeuvre—canapés, barquettes, bouchées, allumettes, and turnovers.
1 pound flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup ice water
1 pound butter
Mix the flour and the salt and form a circle with them on a pastry board. Pour some of the ice water into the center and work it into the flour with your fingers, adding additional ice water as needed for a stiff paste. Place this paste in the refrigerator for thirty minutes.
Roll the paste one quarter inch thick on a floured board, taking care to keep it longer than it is wide. Spread the surface with the butter and fold in the edges to make an even rectangle. Fold the rectangle over twice, napkin fashion, so that you have three thicknesses of paste. Roll into a long narrow strip one quarter inch thick. Fold again, as before, and turn it one quarter of the way around. Roll again and repeat the process till you have rolled it four times in all, turning the dough one fourth of the way each time. After the fourth and final turn, fold the paste from each end to the center, then double, making four thicknesses. Wrap in waxed paper and place in the refrigerator till ready to bake.
Puff paste should be baked on the following schedule: 500° F. for the first five minutes. Then reduce the temperature 50° F. each five minutes till the paste is browned. If you are baking shells, or bouchées, do not brown them too much if they have to be placed under the broiler later, for they are liable to burn on second cooking.
To cut bouchées: Roll the paste one quarter inch thick and cut with a fluted cutter the size and shape you want. Cut small rounds from the center of half the pieces and attach these—the rims—to the whole rounds; brush both pieces with a little water first and gently press the edges together. The tiny centers may be used for Canapé bases or for cheese puffs if you sprinkle them with a little grated Parmesan and Swiss cheese.
Cut oblong or round pieces for turnovers.
2½ cups of flour, sifted
12 tablespoons of butter, cut in pieces
1 teaspoon of salt
3–4 tablespoons of ice water
Put the flour in a heap on a pastry board or in a large bowl and make a hollow in the top of the heap. Into this put the butter and salt. Blend the flour and butter with your finger tips until it is fairly well mixed and has a mealy consistency. Do not knead it roughly; just flake it gently. Add a little ice water—just enough to work the dough into a ball; do not add too much water. Roll the ball of dough in waxed paper and chill for half an hour.
This paste can be used for barquettes, tarts, and most turnovers.
For barquettes, roll very thin and line tiny boat-shaped barquette or tart pans. Fill the centers with rice to prevent burning or breaking during baking. If the tarts are to be reheated later, do not finish browning them. Bake in a 425° F. oven until done to the necessary state of brownness. Discard the rice.
Both the above pastes will keep several days in the refrigerator before cooking.
The following basic butters are listed here as a reference so that the recipes need not be repeated throughout the book. Not only are these useful for canapés and sandwiches, but they fill a need very often for cold snacks and sauces.
FINES HERBES BUTTER
Chop together two cups of parsley picked from the stems, a handful each of fresh spinach leaves and watercress, chives to taste, and any of the following fresh herbs which are available, a few leaves of each to make a blend of flavors: fresh chervil, tarragon, basil, dill, thyme, or sorrel. Dried herbs may be soaked in a little white wine for two hours and then chopped. When chopped to a paste, add one teaspoon of salt and either one teaspoon of anchovy paste or two finely chopped anchovy fillets. Cream this with one half pound of butter till the herbs have been thoroughly blended and the butter is completely green.
ANCHOVY BUTTER NO. 1
Pound twelve anchovy fillets in a mortar or chop them till they are creamy. Blend with one quarter of a pound of butter and a few drops of lemon juice, and force through a fine sieve.
ANCHOVY BUTTER NO. 2
Pound or chop very fine twelve anchovy fillets and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Blend with one quarter of a pound of butter and force through a sieve.
Blend together to a smooth paste one quarter of a pound each of Roquefort cheese and sweet butter.
CHUTNEY BUTTER
Cream one quarter of a pound of butter and add two tablespoons of finely chopped chutney. This is improved by the addition of a little curry powder; the amount has to be left to your own taste.
LOBSTER BUTTER NO. 1
Add one mashed lobster coral to one quarter of a pound of butter. Season with one half teaspoon of salt and a little fresh dill if available. Force through a fine sieve.
LOBSTER BUTTER NO. 2
One quarter of a pound of butter creamed with the same amount of finely chopped cooked lobster and one half teaspoon of salt, one half teaspoon of freshly ground pepper, and a few grains of paprika. This is much better if forced through a sieve.
SHRIMP BUTTER
Cream one quarter of a pound of butter with a cup of finely chopped cooked shrimp, one half teaspoon of salt, a few drops of lemon juice, and a few grains of freshly ground pepper. Force this through a fine sieve or not, as your taste decides.
Cream one quarter of a pound of butter with the same quantity of chopped or pounded smoked salmon and one half teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper. Force through a fine sieve.
STURGEON BUTTER
Cream one quarter of a pound of butter with one cup of finely chopped smoked sturgeon. A few grains of pepper and one half teaspoon of salt are added to this.
GARLIC BUTTER
Crush several cloves of garlic and cream with one quarter of a pound of butter and one half teaspoon of salt. This is a matter of “stop and go,” for you know better than I your capacity for garlic flavor. So, let your own taste guide you.
PEPPER BUTTER
Cream one quarter pound of butter, and mix with one half cup of finely chopped green pepper and one half cup of chopped pimiento, both of which are well drained, and one half teaspoon of salt. Pass through a fine sieve.
SARDINE BUTTER
Mix one cup of finely mashed, boneless and skinless sardines with an equal quantity of butter and the juice of one half or one whole lemon. Force through a fine sieve.
Cream one cup of finely chopped, raw mushrooms with one quarter of a pound of butter, one half teaspoon of salt, and a few grains of freshly ground black pepper. Force through a fine sieve.
TOMATO BUTTER
Peel and seed one or two firm tomatoes. Chop the flesh very fine; season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper and drain. Cream the pulp with one quarter of a pound of butter that has a few drops of onion juice blended with it. The amount of butter will vary with the quality and firmness of the tomatoes; you may need more than one quarter of a pound. Force through a fine sieve.
HORSERADISH BUTTER
Cream together one quarter of a pound of butter with two ounces of grated fresh horseradish and one ounce of grated Switzerland Swiss cheese. Force through a fine sieve.
CURRY BUTTER
Sauté two finely chopped shallots in a tablespoon of butter. Add one to two tablespoons of curry powder, one teaspoon of arrowroot, and two tablespoons of heavy cream; stir till this is a thick paste and let it cool. Cream with one quarter of a pound of butter and force through a fine sieve.
Chop together one tablespoon of capers, one of chives, two small sweet gherkins, one anchovy fillet, three or four pickled onions, and a few leaves of fresh tarragon. When they are finely chopped, cream with one quarter of a pound of butter and force through a fine sieve.
MUSTARD BUTTER
Blend one or two teaspoons of dry mustard (or to taste) into one quarter of a pound of butter.
ROQUEFORT SPREAD
Force one half pound of Roquefort cheese through a fine sieve with one quarter pound each of butter and cream cheese. Cream the mixture, adding one half teaspoon of dry mustard and two tablespoons of cognac. This may be stored in a glass jar or stone crock and kept for a couple of weeks.
Variation: Add a tablespoon of chopped chives to the spread, or two tablespoons of chopped raw mushrooms, after the mixture is creamed. In this case, use it at once.
STILTON SPREAD
Force one half pound of good Stilton cheese through a sieve with one quarter pound each of butter and cream cheese. Add two tablespoons of port wine and blend. Store in a crock or jar.
ANCHOVY SPREAD NO. 1
Chop twelve anchovy fillets very fine and add to one half pound of cream cheese and three tablespoons of chopped pickled onion. Blend well.
ANCHOVY SPREAD NO. 2
Combine twelve chopped anchovy fillets, one tablespoon of chopped dill, and two tablespoons of chopped chives. Blend with one cup of cream cheese.
Blend three tablespoons of chutney, two tablespoons of chopped preserved ginger, two tablespoons of grated fresh coconut and two teaspoons of curry paste with one half pound of cream cheese. Two tablespoons of chopped blanched almonds may be added to this instead of the coconut.
TONGUE SPREAD
Chop a half pound of cold smoked tongue very fine. Add one tablespoon each of chopped gherkin and chopped chives or shallot, one chopped hard-boiled egg, and one teaspoon of French mustard. Bind this with sufficient mayonnaise to make a stiff paste.
CUCUMBER SPREAD
Wash a cucumber well and cut it in half the long way. Scoop out seeds and center pulp. Shred the remainder on a coarse shredder, drain, and mix with two tablespoons of chopped chives or two tablespoons of grated onion. Cream with one half pound of cream cheese and one teaspoon of salt. If the cucumbers are on the watery side, you may need more cream cheese to make the spread the proper consistency.
CHIPPED BEEF SPREAD
Chop one cup of freshly sliced dried beef. Mix with one and one half teaspoons of dry mustard, two tablespoons of sherry, and one cup of cream cheese.
HAM SPREAD NO. 1
Chop one half pound of cold baked ham with three sweet gherkins and one teaspoon of dry mustard. Moisten with a little mayonnaise.
Chop one half pound of cold baked ham or pound it in a mortar. Add one to two tablespoons of chopped chives according to taste, and one half cup of chopped ripe olives—the canned chopped olives from California are excellent for this purpose. Moisten this with a little mayonnaise and blend well till it is a smooth paste.
HAM SPREAD NO. 3
To one half pound of cold baked ham, finely chopped, add one half cup of shredded Switzerland Swiss cheese, three chopped gherkins, and a tablespoon of French mustard, and moisten with a little mayonnaise.
Variation: Add two tablespoons of chopped egg yolk to this mixture.
HAM SPREAD NO. 4
To one half pound of chopped ham add one half cup of chopped olives and one half cup of chopped Brazil nuts. Moisten with mayonnaise.
HAM SPREAD NO. 5
Chop one half pound of cold baked ham. Chop six or eight mushrooms which have been sautéed in a little butter. Combine and add one half teaspoon of salt and one teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper, and moisten with a little mayonnaise.
HAM SPREAD NO. 6
Combine one cup of chopped cold ham, one cup of chopped cold rare beef, one and one half teaspoons of dry mustard, and enough mayonnaise to moisten.
Combine one cup of finely chopped cooked ham, one cup of finely chopped cooked chicken, one half cup of chopped chives, one half cup of chopped Brazil nuts, three chopped gherkins and enough mayonnaise to moisten.
HAM AND TONGUE SPREAD
Combine one cup of chopped cooked ham, one cup of chopped cooked tongue, one teaspoon of Dijon mustard, and enough mayonnaise to moisten.
MUSHROOM SPREAD
Mix one teaspoon of onion juice with one quarter pound of cream cheese. Add one half cup of chopped raw mushrooms and salt to taste.
SWISS CHEESE AND OLIVE SPREAD
Thoroughly mix two cups of grated Switzerland Swiss cheese, three tablespoons of chopped olives, and two tablespoons of chopped green pepper. Moisten this with enough mayonnaise to make a thick paste.
SWISS CHEESE AND EGG SPREAD
Sieve the yolks of six hard-cooked eggs and blend them with two cups of finely grated Switzerland Swiss cheese and salt to taste. Add enough mayonnaise to moisten.
Combine one and one half cups of grated Gruyère cheese, two tablespoons of tomato catsup, two chopped anchovy fillets, and two chopped hard-cooked eggs. Blend these well and moisten with a little mayonnaise if necessary.
CHICKEN AND CHEESE SPREAD
Combine one and one half cups of finely chopped cold chicken, one and one half cups of grated Switzerland Swiss cheese, mayonnaise to moisten, and one half cup of chopped blanched almonds.
SHRIMP SPREAD
Chop two cups of cold cooked shrimp, or tinned ones, with a handful of parsley leaves and two sweet gherkins. Add mayonnaise to bind and salt to taste.
CRABMEAT SPREAD
Chop two cups of crabmeat with one half cup of diced celery, one hard-cooked egg, and a handful of parsley leaves. Bind this with mayonnaise and salt to taste.
LOBSTER SPREAD
Combine two cups of lobster meat, one hard-cooked egg, and one large tomato which has been peeled and from which all seeds have been removed. Chop these together very fine and add one teaspoon of salt and some paprika. Bind with mayonnaise.
Mash thoroughly one seven-ounce can of tuna fish. Add two tablespoons of chutney, chopping the large pieces well, one tablespoon of chopped chives, and one tablespoon of chopped egg yolk. Add enough mayonnaise to moisten and a little lemon juice if desired.
TUNA FISH SPREAD NO. 2
Combine one seven-ounce can of tuna fish, thoroughly mashed, one cup of chopped olives, a teaspoon of grated onion, and a few drops of lemon juice. Blend and add enough mayonnaise to moisten.
BEEF SPREAD
Chop one half pound of rare roast beef with five or six pickled walnuts, and combine with one teaspoon of dry mustard and a tablespoon of freshly grated horseradish. Moisten with enough mayonnaise to bind.
VEAL SPREAD
Rub a chopping bowl with garlic. In it chop one half pound of cold veal and three or four anchovy fillets very fine. Add one teaspoon of Dijon mustard* and enough mayonnaise to bind.
CHICKEN SPREAD NO. 1
Chop two cups of cooked chicken or turkey (the dark meat is far more flavorful for this). Add one half cup of chopped ripe olives, salt to taste, freshly ground pepper, and a little mayonnaise to bind. The more finely chopped the chicken, the more delicate and attractive the spread.
Chop together two cups of cooked chicken, a few leaves of fresh tarragon, a few leaves of parsley, a few chives, and three small sweet gherkins. Bind with a little mayonnaise. Salt to taste.
CHICKEN SPREAD NO. 3
Combine two cups of cooked chicken, dark meat if possible, and one half cup of blanched almonds. Chop very fine. Add two tablespoons of grated pineapple, which has been drained very well, or one and one half slices of pineapple chopped very fine. If this is not enough liquid to bind, resort to a little mayonnaise.
CHICKEN SPREAD NO. 4
Combine one cup each of cold chicken and cold stuffing, well flavored and spiced, one half cup of Brazil nuts, a few leaves of parsley, a few tarragon leaves, and one half teaspoon of salt. Chop very fine and blend to a smooth paste.
CHICKEN SPREAD NO. 5
Chop together one and one half cups of cooked chicken and two pimientos. Add one finely chopped shallot, a few leaves of parsley, and one half cup of pignolia nuts (pine nuts). Bind with chili sauce to make a firm paste. Salt to taste and add a few grains of cayenne.
Chop shallots or small white onions very fine, enough to make two tablespoons. Melt this in a pan with one tablespoon of butter. Add two thirds of a cup of white wine and one tablespoon of curry powder, and thicken with a scant tablespoon of arrowroot. When this is cooled, add to it one cup of finely chopped chicken, one half cup of finely chopped almonds, two tablespoons of chutney, and a few grains of salt. Use grated fresh coconut for a garnish with this one.
CHICKEN MARRON SPREAD
Purée four or five cooked chestnuts. Mix these with one cup of chopped chicken meat, two tablespoons of finely chopped celery, salt and pepper to taste, and enough mayonnaise to bind.
RILLETTES DE TOURS—(an excellent spread)
Immortal Rabelais writes of this original recipe for rillettes, which are made with odds and ends of pork and used as a pâté or just spread on a piece of crisp French bread. They are served as an hors d’oeuvre in France or in America where French restaurants are run by Frenchmen.
Choose fine leaf lard at the pork butcher’s and ask him to put it through the meat grinder. Four or five pounds will do. Put the ground leaf lard in a large pan on a slow fire and allow it to fry out. Strain the melted lard but keep the residue. Put the melted lard on the flame once more, and add four ounces of water; this will keep the meat from frying. Put the pork meat, about four pounds, odds and ends with bones, etc., in the lard, and allow to simmer four or five hours. Drain from the fat and free the meat from the bones. Mince the meat, season it to taste, put in the saucepan once more, with the original residue from the lard. Add a very little melted lard, just enough to thoroughly blend. Put up in jars or glasses, being careful to break all bubbles or “air pockets.” The lard will come to the top and protect the meat.
The rest of the lard can be used in the kitchen. It is almost as fine as butter for cooking, being perfectly pure.
HAZELNUT SPREAD
Grind one half pound of toasted salted hazelnuts very fine. Blend these with enough butter to form a thick paste. This is delicious by itself or blended with ham or tongue for a canapé.
SHRIMP CANAPÉS
Spread rounds of toast with shrimp butter. Arrange two small, or one large, shrimp on top and decorate with a bit of thick mayonnaise, a little chopped egg, and chopped chives.
ANCHOVY TOMATO CANAPÉS
Spread round water biscuits, or rounds of crisp toast, with anchovy paste or anchovy butter. Place a half-inch slice of peeled tomato on each biscuit and arrange anchovy fillets in bar formation on the tomato. Alternate with rows of chopped hard-cooked egg.
ANCHOVY VEAL TOASTS
Spread rounds of toast with anchovy butter and cover each toast with a thin slice of cold roast veal. Top the veal with finely chopped tuna fish mixed with enough mayonnaise to hold it together. Decorate with chopped parsley. This is a variation of the vitello tonnato of the Italians, and a delicious combination it is.
SARDINE CANAPÉS
Spread oblong pieces of toast or water biscuits with garlic butter. Take one skinless and boneless sardine for each canapé, slip onion rings over each sardine and place on the toasts. Use finely chopped egg and chives for decoration.
Spread oblong toasts or biscuits with garlic butter and arrange egg slices in the middle of each toast. Arrange a sardine on each bed of sliced egg and cover with green mayonnaise.
ROQUEFORT CANAPÉS
Spread rounds of toast or biscuits with Roquefort butter and sprinkle generously with chopped walnuts. Delightful with wines or vermouth apéritifs.
CHICKEN AND ALMOND CANAPÉS
Spread oblong toasts or thin oblong water biscuits with sweet butter. Alternate thin strips of cold chicken or turkey with rows of chopped blanched almonds and decorate with thin strips of green pepper.
BRAZILIAN CANAPÉS
Spread oblong toasts very thickly with foie gras or a good liver paste. Garnish with slices of toasted Brazil nuts in a pleasant pattern. (See chapter on accessories for Brazil nut recipe.)
HARLEQUIN CANAPÉS
Butter rectangular toasts with fines herbes butter. Cover with a thin row of finely chopped tongue, a row of chopped egg yolk, a row of chopped white meat of chicken, a row of chopped ham, and a row of chopped egg white. Decorate the edges with a tiny line of chopped parsley.
Spread rectangular canapés with smoked salmon butter. Alternate tiny strips of smoked salmon with strips of marinated herring. Decorate with a thin line of red caviar in the middle and a line of chopped chives around the edges.
LOBSTER CANAPÉS
Spread rectangular toasts with lobster butter and arrange thin slices of lobster meat along the middle; flank on one side with chopped egg white and on the other with chopped egg yolk.
CHINESE CANAPÉS
Spread rounds of toast with Roquefort butter. In the center of each toast, place a well-drained preserved lichee nut and top with a tiny dot of pimiento.
RED CAVIAR CANAPÉS
Mix one teaspoon of onion juice and the juice of half of one lemon with one cup of cream cheese. Form a crown of this mixture on rounds of toast with a pastry tube. Fill the center with a few grains of red caviar and decorate the edge with chopped chives.
CHEESE AND HAM CANAPÉS
Cover rounds of toast with any of the ham spreads. Cover with a round of Switzerland Swiss cheese and decorate with a slice of hard-boiled egg and chopped chervil, parsley, and chives.
Spread rectangular pieces of bread with a mixture of butter and grated Switzerland Swiss cheese (equal proportions, in amounts according to the number of canapés). On half of these canapés place two small asparagus tips which have been marinated in French dressing and thoroughly drained and on the others, a quarter of a small tomato. Decorate with tiny strips of Switzerland Swiss cheese and a little chopped egg yolk.
GRUYÈRE CANAPÉS
Cream one third of a pound of butter with one third of a pound of grated Gruyère cheese. Add one teaspoon of Dijon mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Spread on rounds of toast with a pastry tube and decorate with radish slices and watercress.
GRUYÈRE AND HAM CANAPÉS
Mix one cup of shredded Gruyère cheese with two tablespoons of butter and season with English mustard to taste. Spread on rounds of toast; cover with coarsely chopped cold ham and decorate with chopped parsley.
SALAMI CANAPÉS
Spread rounds of toast with fines herbes butter. Place a thin slice of salami on each round and a slice of hard-boiled egg on top. Use thinly sliced pimiento for decoration.
Some famous French hostess supposedly started the fashion for the recipe below and created a sensation in her salon. I am sure a reputation and a leading position in any town can be built up if you serve enough of them for they are as contagious as measles. One good friend of mine can eat a dozen of them at one sitting.
It is my favorite canapé, and is one of the simplest in the world. It is called:
BRIOCHE EN SURPRISE (ONION SANDWICHES)
Slice brioche in slices one quarter of an inch thick and cut in rounds with a canapé cutter or a small biscuit cutter. Spread the rounds with mayonnaise. On half the slices place a very thin slice of raw onion, just the size of the round, and salt it well. Place another slice of brioche on top; roll the edges first in mayonnaise and then in finely chopped parsley.
Not only is this delicious, but it is one of the most decorative canapés you can make, for the edging of brilliant green enchances the golden yellow of the brioche and makes it a most appetizing tidbit.
This same process may be used for tiny anchovy canapés. Spread the rounds of brioche with fines herbes butter and place fillets of anchovies on one half of the slices. Top with a second slice of the buttered brioche; roll the edges in mayonnaise and then in chopped parsley.
If you have the patience to make the tiniest of brioches following the recipe I gave at the beginning of this chapter, you will have an admirable foundation for a great many canapés and hors d’oeuvre. This bread’s delicate texture and flavor make it something apart for appetizers. It complements any spread or butter and is ideal for a blend of highly refined flavors.
These tiny brioches are unbelievably good when stuffed with foie gras. Cut a tiny round at the bottom and scoop out a bit of the bread, stuff the cavity, and place the round back in place securing it with a dot of butter. Or split brioches and fill the centers with foie gras.
Ham and chicken, too, are flavors that are delightful with brioches.
I mentioned before that almost any of the spreads may be used; I have stressed the foie gras because the two flavors are so very companionable.
For this process you need patience and determination, so don’t try to perform it at the last minute and expect marvels.
You will need the very thin loaves known in the French bakeshops as French flutes, or thin French rolls if the former are not available, though almost any bakeshop that makes good crusty French bread will make the flutes for you on order. Cut the loaf or rolls in half crosswise and scoop out the center so that only the crisp tubes of crust and a little of the white center for contrast in texture are left. Fill with any of the mixtures given below and allow to set, but not so long that the crust gets soggy. Slice with a very sharp knife in slices three eighths to one half inch thick, and arrange on a platter.
CREAM CHEESE AND PISTACHIO FILLING
Cream one and one half cups of cream cheese with three tablespoons of chopped chives and a tablespoon of chopped parsley. Add one teaspoon of French mustard, one half teaspoon of salt, and one half cup of pistachio nuts. Force the mixture into the loaves. Allow to set for half an hour before slicing. Be sure that you pack the cheese in tightly so as to get even slices. This same mixture may be used substituting long thin strips of Swiss cheese for the pistachio nuts; they must be inserted lengthwise in the tubes of crust.
TARTARE FILLING
Here is a hearty version of stuffed bread which has never failed to be satisfying and to cause pleasant comments; I like it for its rib-sticking satisfaction after strenuous exercise or long walks in the country. (See Editor’s Note, copyright page.)
After you have removed the center from the loaf, spread the cavity well with garlic butter, and see that it is good and strong with garlic flavor. Force into the shell raw, chopped steak, not hamburger but the best lean steak specially chopped by the butcher for you. Let this set for a short time and slice in one-half-inch slices. You will want plenty of salt and freshly ground pepper with this, and let guests salt for themselves. Have a dish of green onions handy, too; they are one of the best friends of raw beef.
Any of the ham or chicken spreads make admirable fillings for these rings of bread. A few whole almonds with the chicken fillings is a very smart idea, and with the ham spreads a few toasted Brazil nuts in the center of the loaf add a bit of variation.
CURRIED CHICKEN FILLING
1½ cups of finely chopped chicken
½ cup of chopped blanched almonds
1 teaspoon of chutney sauce
2 tablespoons of grated fresh coconut
¾ cup of curry sauce
The sauce:
Melt one tablespoon of butter in a skillet. Add one tablespoon of curry powder and blend well. Add two tablespoons of white wine and one half cup of cream mixed with two egg yolks. Stir briskly over low heat till the mixture thickens, but do not allow to boil. Remove from the fire and allow to cool.
When the sauce is cooled, mix it with the chicken, nuts, chutney, and coconut, and force the paste into the hollowed bread. Let this set for one and one half to two hours before serving.
To add variety to your canapé tray, try tiny choux as a base or shell for spreads. They are simple to make, attractive to the eye, and delicious to the taste.
Here is a recipe perfected by the Switzerland Cheese Association, Inc., and one that is particularly suited to hors d’oeuvre:
1 pint of milk
1 cup of flour
2 ounces of grated Switzerland Swiss cheese
½ teaspoon of salt
¼ pound of butter
5 eggs, separated
¼ teaspoon of nutmeg
Heat the milk and butter in a saucepan over a flame until the butter melts; add the sifted flour, all at once, and stir briskly till it forms a ball in the center of the pan. Add the unbeaten egg yolks and the grated cheese and beat well. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites. With the aid of a pastry tube, drop in tiny balls on a buttered pan, and bake in a moderate oven (375° F.) for about forty minutes, or until they are a deep yellow and free from moisture.
You will find that almost any of the spreads will be effective in these cases; and if the day or room is hot, they are ideal, for canapés have a tendency to melt and become very tired looking on a plate. Choux, however, keep their freshness and starchy appearance long after their sisters and cousins, the toasts and biscuits.
Fill these shells with pâté of your own making or any of the prepared pâtés. Top them with a little chopped egg or parsley.
Or make an avocado purée by forcing an avocado through a fine sieve into a bowl which has previously been well rubbed with garlic. Add salt and pepper to taste and one heaping teaspoon of toasted bread crumbs. Mix these together well and fill the choux.
The following are several rather unusual mixtures that are excellent fillings for chou cases:
SALPICON DE CONCOMBRE
Chop a large cucumber very fine and salt and pepper it well. Let the chopped pulp drain through a cheesecloth till the liquid is well removed. Bind with a heavy mayonnaise and fill the shells. A bit of grated onion and chopped parsley are welcome additions, too.
ASPARAGUS PURÉE
Force fifteen or twenty freshly cooked asparagus tips through a fine sieve. Salt and pepper well, add a teaspoon of chopped chives, one of chopped parsley, and bind with a heavy mayonnaise. Fill the shells with this mixture and chill.
SALPICON OF CELERY ROOT
Poach two medium-sized celery knobs in white wine till tender. Peel and dice into small cubes. Mix with salt, pepper, chopped chives, and capers. Bind with a stiff mayonnaise and chill.
SALPICON À LA REINE
Chop one cup of white meat of chicken, one half cup of chopped cooked mushrooms, and one quarter cup of blanched almonds rather coarsely. Salt and pepper to taste, add a few grains of nutmeg, and bind with mayonnaise.
Some people have to overcome an initial squeamishness about raw meat recipes, but eventually they become fans, too. Nothing is more delicious when properly seasoned and very tender. (See Editor’s Note, copyright page.)
1½ cups of finely chopped, lean, raw beefsteak
½ cup of chopped, raw onions
1 raw egg
1 teaspoon each of: capers, chopped chives, chopped parsley, salt, freshly ground pepper, and Dijon mustard
Make a crown of the raw beef in a bowl and drop the egg and the seasonings in the center. Blend it well with your hands until it is a smooth paste. Chill thoroughly and fill the shells just before serving.
There are endless combinations that may be used for this type of service. I have tried to give you a few basic ideas and will trust your inventiveness to go the rest of the way. Cold meats and fish mixed with aspic jelly, fish and meat salads, and all the various spreads are additional ideas. You will find the chou a most decorative and satisfactory service.
*Note: Here and elsewhere we have made appropriate substitutes for Escoffier Sauce Diable, a product that’s not readily available in retail stores. —Ed.