“NOBODY COMES TO SALERNO,” SAYS AWARD-WINNING cookbook author and southern Italy expert Arthur Schwartz. I’m grateful he’s somebody who goes where “nobody” goes, and that he turned me on to this under-touristed town’s treasure-of-a-garden, on the southern edge of the Amalfi Coast.

The immediate attraction for me was that it’s named for Minerva, Roman Goddess of Wisdom and War, who sprung from the head of Jupiter. She was also worshiped as Minerva Medica, patron of doctors. This giardino was created by Doctor Matteo Silvatico in the early thirteenth century, with plants to be used in curative potions by the medical school that was next door. These were medieval times when practicing medicine centered around balancing the four humors of the body, as first written about by Hippocrates in ye olden days of ancient Greece. Hippocrates’ premise, a departure from prayers and sacrifice, was that the body’s four fluids (blood, phlegm, yellow bile, and black bile), needed to be balanced with the four elements and the four seasons for optimum health. Herbs were regularly used for cures, such as chamomile to lower the biles, making gardens near hospitals very convenient for doctors.

The Giardino della Minerva became the first botanical garden in Europe, and now has a total of 260 plant species, including such rarities as the legendary mandrake and ginseng. It’s a delightful mix of six pretty terraces that rise above Salerno’s historic center—making it lovely for strolling or bringing children along to run along the paths, surrounded by fig and lemon trees, palms, fish ponds, fountains, and aromatic herbs. There’s a lot of local pride surrounding this spot, which was restored in 2001, and gardeners appreciate the well-labeled plant displays.

On the top terrace, is La Tiseneria, a tea room, where you can settle in and enjoy pretty views of the port and sea, while you sip teas made from the garden’s herbs or, better yet, limoncello.

Giardino della Minerva: Via Ferrante Sanseverino 1, Salerno, 9:30 to one hour before sunset, closed Mondays, www.giardinodellaminerva.it.

Golden Day: Enjoy the centro storico of Salerno, that’s full of luxury shops and an eleventh-century cathedral dedicated to Saint Matthew. Get to the Giardino della Minerva in the late afternoon, near sunset, for beautiful views of the sea. For dinner, here are two of Arthur’s favorite places: Antica Pizzeria Vicolo della Neve (Vicolo della Neve 24, 089 225705, closed Wednesday), which besides pizza has great stuffed peppers and pasta fagioli, or the old-school Osteria Dedicato a Mio Padre (Via Giudaica 8, 089 231555) for excellent seafood dishes.