COME TO THE PLACE THAT’S CALLED the Queen of the Versilia coast to luxuriate in one of Italy’s chic-est beach experiences. Yes, it’s in Tuscany, but erase all those quaint thoughts of cobblestoned streets and medieval architecture.
Forte dei Marmi is laid out in a flat grid, perfect for biking. Mid-century villas peek out behind clipped hedges, cypress, and palm trees. The town center is packed with designer shops, like Gucci, Prada, Versace, and Dolce & Gabbana. This is more like the Hamptons of Italy, where the elite meet to beach, dine, shop, and disco.
It has one of the mainland’s best stretches of wide, fine sandy beaches, with shallow water that’s perfect for the kids. If you go in season, you’ll be mixing with well-to-do families who’ve been coming here for decades, along with the more recent trend of international jet-setters, who’ve taken their cue from folks like Miuccia Prada and Giorgio Armani, who have summer getaway homes here.
It wasn’t always this way. Forte dei Marmi translates to “Fort of Marble,” which is what that big brick building you’ll see in the town’s main piazza used to be. Back in the eighteenth century it was a storehouse for marble that was quarried from the Apuan mountains that backdrop the town. Now the jetty built to lug that marble out to ships is a promenade, flanked by beaches, and filled with glamorous tourists.
There are almost a hundred beach clubs to choose from to enjoy the Forte dei Marmi experience with starting prices of about fifty euro for your cabana, beach chairs, and umbrellas. An old-time favorite for families is Bruno (V. Arenile 79 Riviera della Versilia, 058 489 972), or more luxurious is Bagno Agnetta (www.bagnoagnetta.com), which also has a wellness pool with hydromassages offered. If you want to splurge for the ultimate jet-set scene, head to Twiga, (www.twigabeachclub.com), owned by the mega-businessman Flavio Briatore, renowned for dating models like Heidi Klum and Naomi Campbell. Here you’ll find billowing Moroccan tents, chairs upholstered in leopard skin, and if you show up in the evening, a disco where you’ll be dancing until the wee hours. Or you may go for one of Italy’s top topless beaches, Santa Maria (V. Arenile 9), that’s surrounded by pine trees, and has a charming, vintage feel to it.
Forte dei Marmi is a great place to settle into for at least a few days. Nearby is the town of Pietrasanta, filled with artists whose sculptures, paintings, and handcrafted jewelry make for fun shopping opportunities and gallery shows. Or you could visit Carrara, home to the famous marble quarry where Michelangelo chose his stone for the Pieta.
Golden Day: Get to Forte dei Marmi for the Wednesday market that has designer goods at discount prices, choose your beach, and eat at Gilda Ristorante, where spaghetti alle arselle (with tiny local clams) is what to order. For luxury digs, stay at the Hotel Augustus (www.augustus-hotel.org).