Sirolo–Marche

TWO GIANT POINTED ROCKS, CALLED LE DUE SORELLE (the two sisters), symbolize the Riviera del Conero. They resemble two nuns dressed in white habits rising from the azure sea, as if blessing the most stunning stretch of Italy’s northern Adriatic Coast.

Bright white limestone is what makes this place so spectacular. Towering over the scenery is Monte Conero, that wows you as you drive along a winding panoramic highway above jagged cliffs. Deep green pine forests and yellow broom add bursts of color. All this wild beauty is the backdrop for pebbled beaches, coves, and a handful of sweet resort towns.

Best of these towns is Sirolo.

Below it you’ll find four sublime beaches. My friend Alessandra is a fan of the largest, Grotta Urbani. It’s shaped like a crescent moon, with an enticing cave at one end. Shallow water makes it perfect for families with children. The scent of pine trees backing up the beach mixes with the sea air. There are three beach clubs, a restaurant, and bar on the jetty. From Sirolo, you can catch a shuttle bus to get there, or walk downhill through the forest, which takes about ten minutes.

Sirolo’s other beaches are only accessible by foot or boat from Grotta Urbani. Boat is better, as the paths are treacherous and steep. Le Due Sorelle is the gem of them all, with the view of the “two sisters” rocks. San Michele has a rustic appeal, with wildflowers covering its borders. If you’re in the mood to sunbathe au naturale, head to Sassi Neri, the Beach of the Black Pebbles. Keep in mind all the beaches are pebbly, so bring your beach shoes.

Sirolo is a beautifully restored medieval village, that’s a happening spot during its beach season. Along its narrow alleyways are lively restaurants and bars. Everybody hangs out on the wide piazza, a tree-shaded balcony at the edge of the village that overlooks the sea. In July and August, two theaters stage operas and concerts. The most unusual is the Teatro Alle Cave, a quarry that’s been converted to an open-air 1800 seat theater. More traditional is the Teatro Cortesi, a 220-seat ornate building from 1873.

Sirolo is also the entrance to the Conero Regional Park (www.conero.it), where you can hike to an archaeological site and find the Tomb of the Queen of Sirolo. Folks were amazed when this was excavated in 1989. They discovered jewelry, vases, and two carriages from the sixth century B.C., which must have belonged to this woman of mystery.

Golden Day: Choose your beach and enjoy the village of Sirolo. Stay at La Libellula del Conero (www.lalibelluladelconcero.com), an enchanting B&B, and dine on the terrace of Ristorante Vittoria (Via Accesso Spiaggia 2, 071 736 0142) for breathtaking views and fresh caught seafood. Be sure to taste the local dry red wine, Rosso Conero.