THE FLORENTINES CLAIM GELATO WAS INVENTED by the Medici’s family architect, Bernardo Buontalenti, in 1565, when he churned it up during a banquet for Francesco I. Coincidentally, 1565 happens to be the same year Francesco married the seventeen-year-old Austrian Duchess Joanna, so I fantasize this was where the great tradition of hubby offering wife ice cream to bring a smile to her face began.
This is just my imagination, because the facts are that Joanna was miserable all through the marriage—homesick for Austria and fed up with Francesco’s philandering. He’s suspected of poisoning her; she died in childbirth at age thirty, and Francesco quickly married his mistress.
Still I think it’s in the best interest of gelato folklore to imagine they had one happy gelato moment together before the crash and burn.
There are countless places for happy gelato moments in Italy, with just a couple of caveats. Be sure to check for a sign that says Produzione Propria, Nostra Produzione, or Produzione Artiginale, which mean “homemade” in Italian before you go in. And never buy from a shop that has overflowing tubs of gelato—that means they’ve been artificially pumped. Finally avoid yellow banana or bright green pistachio gelato, which means somebody tossed some imitation coloring in there.
Like all Italian food, gelato flavors vary with what’s in season and whatever’s growing in the region. I’ve found amazing cipolle (red onion) in Tropea, truffle-flavored gelato in Alba, and carciofi (artichoke) in Venice. Be adventurous.
Here are some suggestions for the best:
Rome
This mini-gelato empire was created by Maria Agnese Spagnulo, aka “The Ice Cream Fairy,” a native of Puglia. Her childhood in the countryside, surrounded by fruit and nut trees, inspires her to make gelato with fresh, vibrant flavors and whole spices.
Owners Stefano and Silvia began their gelato-making with a workshop off of Via Cornari where a famous theatre once stood. In their new locations, they continue to whip up delicious classic flavors (pistachio and dark chocolate), along with unique creations (lavender or sesame), and bite-sized pastries.
Master gelato maker Claudio is the genius that began Rome’s artisan gelateria boom. His chain of shops feature over 100 flavors, including 12 varieties of chocolate, and savory options, including gorgonzola or mortadella.
Florence
At the first gelateria in Florence (founded in 1929), lovely Silvana follows in the footsteps of her grandfather, making simply flavored masterpieces, including crema and riso.
Along with superb artisan gelato and unique flavors that change with the seasons, you can enjoy delicious, energizing fruit smoothies and a great view of the Arno and Uffizi at the Via de’ Bardi location.
Another local favorite where the prices are low and quality is tops.
Venice
Owner Carlo is a fanatic who gets his gelato ingredients fresh from the Rialto market every day and is always churning up flavors of the season, along with great renditions of standards.
Passionate and handsome gelato makers—Davide and Johnny, create fabulous flavors, including their most famous: Green Apple (Mela Verde). The shop is near the Church of San Zaccaria, once home to a Benedictine convent, famous for its naughty nuns, and beautiful Bellini altarpiece inside.
Grazie to my Los Angeles-turned-Venetian friend Laura, for turning me on to this artisan gelateria, where the “Manet,” chocolate hazelnut with salted pistachio crema, is divine.
RECOMMENDED READING
Gelato! Italian Ice Creams, Sorbetti and Granite by Pamela Sheldon Johns