AS YOU CAN TELL FROM THE STATUES of ancient Roman empresses, crafting jewelry has been going on in Italy for a very long time. The tradition not only includes gold and silver, but micro-mosaics, glass beads, and even eye-catching plastique costume pieces. Artisans still carve shells or coral to create intricate cameos.
High-profile Italian brands include Buccellati, established in Milan in 1919, and Bulgari, founded in Rome in 1884—their Via Condotti store is a marvel! Newer on the scene is Pomellato, which began in 1967, and has consistently brought bold innovation to their designs, along with championing women’s empowerment and environmental issues. Italian women adore their Dodo jewelry line, which features gold animal charms, with a portion of their profits going to the World Wildlife Fund to protect endangered species. Each symbolizes a sentiment. For example, the Dolphin’s is “Take Me With You,” and the Frog’s is “Kiss Me, I Am Your Prince.” Treat yourself to a stop at one of their shops (found in big cities and major department stores) and create your own necklace or bracelet with your choice of animals.
Here are some suggestions for beautiful bauble shopping:
Rome
This antique jewelry shop has pretty displays of gold, coral, cameos, and gems. Most unique are the micro-mosaic pieces, created to replicate souvenirs from the days of the Grand Tour, with scenes of ancient ruins, mythological figures and landscapes.
Sophia Loren and Naomi Campbell are fans of Percossi’s shimmering, colorful creations. He uses a unique cloisonné enamel technique, incorporating precious and semi-precious gems and pearls into his beautiful designs.
You can watch Massimo’s staff of goldsmiths crafting exquisite pieces in the back of this tiny shop. He uses twenty-one carat gold incorporated with gems, antique coins, engraved stones, or bronze fragments for designs that are crafted using techniques inspired by the Etruscans.
It’s a delight to buy a souvenir from this dazzling store, where crystals, pearls, coral, turquoise, and Murano glass are incorporated into elegant designs inspired by Roman tradition. Welcoming and budget friendly.
Florence
All the jewelry shops on the Ponte Vecchio used to be vegetable and fish stalls. Then the Medicis decided to build the Vasari corridor over the bridge to connect their two palaces. “That stench!” they said to the merchants, kicked them out, and replaced them with goldsmiths. These days, according to Florentines, the only place to shop among the bridge’s many choices is Fratelli Piccini, owned by the same family since 1903 and now under the leadership of Elisa Tozzi Piccini. Elisa has also created shop “Experiences,” where travelers can book their Ponte Vecchio terrace for a special dinner with an extraordinary view.
For those looking for quality 18-carat gold by contemporary designers including Marco Bicego, Nanis, and Fope, this shop has an extensive collection at competitive prices.
This bold designer has been creating fantastic plastique costume jewelry since 1975. It’s high fashion, exotic pop art—fun and colorful. I love shopping here, elbowing in with Signora Caputi’s fans, as we slide out drawers full of goodies and try on different designs.
As I walked by the fifteenth-century building that’s home to Dari’s atelier, I was drawn inside by the sounds of a classical guitar. The player was the master goldsmith Alessandro Dari himself, sitting there in a muscle shirt, surrounded by cases of his jewelry that are inspired by Florentine architecture. His rings and pendants, shaped like domes or castles and studded with gems, are extraordinary.
Lucca
Founded in 1655, this is said to be Italy’s oldest jewelry store. The twelfth generation of the Carli family now operates the gorgeous museum-like shop, where you’ll discover amazing gold and silver antique jewelry.
Venice
There are so many jewelry shops in Venice, they can all start to blur together. But the late great Marcella Hazan steered me to seek out this one that’s totally original, with exotic beaded designs that have a playful feel to them.
Vicenza
A 45-minute train ride from Venice takes you to this splendid town, adorned with palaces from the sixteenth-century master architect Palladio, and a tradition of goldsmithing that began in the 1300s and thrives to this day. The central Piazza dei Signori is full of jewelry shops, including the extraordinary Soprana.
Naples
Torre del Greco, outside of Naples, is the world’s biggest producer of handcrafted cameos. The Ascione family’s workshop there (since 1855) is the oldest in town. You can see an amazing display of their cameos in this Naples showroom and shop. They also make elegant, art-deco-styled jewelry using mother of pearl, turquoise, and tortoiseshell.
Sorrento
A highlight of Sorrento’s pedestrian only centro storico is this shop, where sweetheart/owner Rosalba sits delicately crafting gorgeous creations—blending corals, cameos, and semi-precious stones. You can have her custom design something for you or even arrange to have a jewelry-making lesson so she can show you how to make your own pretty souvenir.
Golden Day: In Rome, shop at Diego Percossi, visit the Pantheon, and eat at my favorite restaurant in Rome, Armando al Pantheon (Salita Dei Crescenzi 31, 06 688 03034, Reservations essential, closed Saturday night and Sunday).