Embroidery and Lace

WHY HAS THIS TRADITION LASTED FOR SO LONG? Isn’t it way more practical to do this by machine? Thankfully, patient Italian women, dedicated to making life pretty, have kept the tradition alive.

Embroidery and lacemaking began over a thousand years ago as nuns’ work, with busy-as-bees holy women decorating priests’ vestments and altar cloths. Embroidery came first, in 1000, when Arabs taught it to Sicilian women and then the craft spread to the mainland. Lacemaking eclipsed embroidery in the frou-frouier Renaissance, when the rich nobility wanted it on everything from their tables to their shoes. Lace became as valuable as cash—farm estates were traded for it; wealthy girls’ dowry trunks were stuffed with it.

Demand became so great all over Europe in the seventeenth century that middle-class women began to take on the work—it was a good, honest way to make a living back then. Many got sent to lacemaking schools (run by nuns) at age five. They’d start out cutting thread and move on to master a specialty pattern, stitching the same design for the rest of their careers. The work was intense, studios were dimly lit. Many went blind.

Most of the signore who craft embroidery and lace today are in their eighties. They learned from their grandmothers, many who were employed in workshops set up during World War I, so women could make a living while the men were off fighting. If you have the chance to watch one of them crafting a small piece that takes hours to create, you’ll never balk at the prices for handmade doilies or embroidered tablecloths again.

Here are places where you can get the real thing:

Burano–Venice

The island of Burano has been world famous for lacemaking since the 1500s. The Venetian legend goes that it started when a man who was heading off to sea gave his beloved an intricate piece of seaweed. Pining for him, she took out her needle and copied the design. The more practical story is that these island women were experts at mending their husband’s fishing nets, so when lace making came along they took to it naturally.

Now Burano, a twenty-five-minute vaporetto ride from the Fondamente Nuove in Venice, is covered in lace shops. Though many sell machine-made pieces from China or Eastern Europe, the handmade tradition lives on in places such as:

Florence–Tuscany

Offida–Le Marche

Santa Margherita Ligure–Liguria

Isola Maggiore–Umbria

Taking the ferry to this small island in Lake Trasimeno is a step-back-in time adventure. Isola Maggiore is a mini-Burano, where senior citizen signoras sit on rickety chairs on the vias branching out from the main piazza making lace. Elena Guglielmi was the first to open a workshop here in the early 1900s, creating a style called irlandesi, which was inspired by her Irish servant.

TIP: For special events focusing on lacemaking around Italy, go to: www.merlettoitaliano.it

Golden Day: Visit the island of Burano in the Venetian lagoon to enjoy the vibrantly painted homes and the many beautiful lace shops. Have lunch at Gatto Nero (Fondamenta della Giudecca 88, 041 730120, www.gattonero.com, closed Monday, reservations essential), run by the wonderful Bovo family. The Risotto Burano Style, made with locally caught ghiozzi fish, is marvelous, as is the housemade tiramisu.