IT’S A CHILLY GRAY MORNING IN MILAN, but the moment teacher/chef Clara Raimondi opens her apartment door, my world warms up. There’s Clara’s welcoming smile and one of life’s most comforting aromas: meat broth cooking. Thus, the lesson begins: “That broth is one of the secrets of risotto,” Clara says, “I started making it at seven this morning.”

This friendly, easy-going, yet precise manner is the signature style of Cook in Milano, Clara’s company that offers cooking classes and wine seminars in her gracious home near Milan’s city center. Clara is a classic Milanese woman—exuding elegance even in a simple chef’s jacket and slacks. Her English is perfect, which she credits to spending a year in New York as a high school exchange student. Now she’s in her forties, married, with two sons, happy to be sharing her culinary passions and expertise with students from all over the world, who are either visiting or living in her native city.

The class seamlessly blends her chic business-like manner with deeply rooted family traditions. “It all started with my nonna,” she says, pointing out her kitchen window to a terrace nearby, where nonna lived. “She was a great cook, and I loved spending time with her in the kitchen.” Though a variety of classes are offered, I’ve come to learn Milanese specialties—specifically the secrets of one of my favorite Italian dishes: Risotto alla Milanese.

“There are three essential rules to make a great risotto,” Clara begins: “First is the meat broth, which must be made that morning or the day before. Second is the marrow, which you scoop from one of the shins, and melt with the butter to start the risotto process. And finally, you must use carnaroli rice.” She explains how carnaroli has a higher starch content than other rices, so it can absorb more liquid, and its long grains remain separate when cooked—in contrast to such sticky rice varieties as those used for sushi.

Clara’s hands-on class is delightful, with all of us assigned different tasks, which she oversees, pausing for coffee and prosecco breaks as we create a northern Italian meal. Along with the risotto, appetizers, and dessert, we make another Milanese classic—ossibuchi (braised veal shanks), which we sauce with gremolada—a savory anchovy/parsley/lemon mixture.

Halfway through stirring the risotto, we add saffron powder, and a distinctive yellow color emerges. The story goes that this Milanese touch was inspired by a sixteenth-century Belgian master glazer, who was working on the stained glass windows of the Duomo. He became famous for using saffron to create golden colors. When his daughter was married in 1574, as a joke, his apprentices made a dish of rice colored with saffron for the celebration. Apparently it was a hit with the wedding guests, and Milanese have loved it ever since.

As we take our final risotto step, mantecatura—swirling in butter and cheese after the risotto has been removed from the heat—it feels as though we’re making magic.

We sit at the dining table, beautifully set with linens embroidered by Clara’s mother. She pours Barolo wine, we toast, and there’s a silence as we take our first bites…followed by sighs of pleasure. Together we’ve created a classic, delicious lunch…alla Milanese.

TOURS

Cook in Milano (www.cookinmilano.com) offers day classes that include market visits and evening classes for pizza, pasta, and tiramisu-making.