International School of Ceramic Art–Deruta, Umbria

“EVEN SOMEONE WHO’S NEVER PICKED UP a paintbrush can spend a little time here and come away with something beautiful,” Florence Welborn told me. She’s a retired schoolteacher from Tacoma and self-described “arts and crafts person.” Florence and her husband fell in love with Italy, bought a place in Umbria, and every time they have visitors, this Deruta school is on the itinerary. What great hosts.

The class set-up here is freeform and casual. Which is surprising, because the school building is also a major ceramics institution (opened in 2001), with lecture halls, galleries, a retail shop, and professional workshop. But as far as ceramic painting classes, anyone can just call or e-mail a day in advance, make a reservation for a few hours (at least four is good for a beginner), and get one-on-one tutoring to learn traditional techniques that have been going on here since the Renaissance.

If you’re a beginner, you choose what design you’d like to paint from a selection of tiles, and then you’re set up at a worktable with all the supplies you need, including a blank tile that’s stamped with the design. It’s like paint-by-number.

Well, not that easy. Which is where the one-on-one tutoring comes in and you’re taught how to mix the paints, and hold the brush, which is different for ceramics than it is for painting on canvas. Here’s the important thing: when you make your reservation for class, if you don’t speak Italian, be sure to confirm that there will be an English-speaking teacher on hand.

You can also take classes in pottery making, like Ekta Nadeau of Vancouver did. She set her trip up so she spent a few days throwing pottery Italian style, then left to tour around for a week, so by the time she came back her pots and jars had been fired. Then she chose a pattern that was just right for their shape and stayed a few days to learn ceramic painting. Recently the school added classes in porcelain jewelry, ceramic proto-type and printing, and special ceramic techniques for designers and architects.

The big perk of being in Deruta is that right out the door are hundreds of artisan shops and a ceramics museum, so you get an education just walking around.

The school will give you lots of recommendations for accommodations nearby, from apartments to B&Bs. Gina Garner, who’s been here often for classes, usually stays at the Hotel Melody, a simple three-star, which she says is “Great, as long as you don’t eat there!”

Deruta’s a very relaxing place to stroll about, especially when you’re feeling so artsy. The locals, accustomed to visitors, are warm and welcoming. The same goes for the staff at the school. Don’t be surprised if Floriana Spaccini, the scuola president, stops by with a tray of caffè and biscotti. Yes, they’re for you. Put down your paintbrush and take a little pausa.

International School of Ceramic Art “Romano Ranieri,” Via Tiberina Sud 330, Deruta, 075 972 383, www.scuoladarteceramica.com.