I could fill another book, but keeping it simple with these classics, where I’ve enjoyed many memorable meals (Reservations essential for all).

• Armando al Pantheon, Rome

  Salita de Crescenzi 31, 06 6880 3034, closed Saturday night and Sunday, www.armandoalpantheon.it

• Sostanza, Florence

  Via Porcellana 25r, 055 212 691, closed Saturday and Sunday

• Antiche Carampane, Venice

  Rio Tera delle Carampane, Rialto, near Ponte delle Tette, 041 524 0165, closed Sunday and Monday, www.antichecarampane.com

• Ristorante Da Dora, Naples

  Via Ferdinando Palasciano 30, 081 680519, www.ristorantedora.it

• Antica Trattoria della Pesa, Milan

  Viale Pasubio, 10, 02 655 5741, www.anticatrattoriadellapesa.com

• da Gelsomina, Anacapri

  Via Migliara 72, 081 837 1499, www.dagelsomina.com