High Street

When I first came here I was too busy with commissions and deadlines to draw Camden High Street, until the need for a Christmas card impelled me to engrave one of the local fruit-barrows. The street rose to fame as a busy stretch of small, friendly and individually run shops with traditional facades, but it is now a more anonymous shopping street that has seen better days. But a few splendid remnants are still standing: Britannia Junction, Camden Town’s central crossroads, is a vibrant traffic-filled open space surrounded by banks and what used to be pubs, and on the pavements by visitors, dealers, buskers, beggars and people sleeping rough. At Camden High Street’s southern end one of the old Edwardian theatres and music-halls is flourishing as Koko, a dance venue. Almost out of sight beyond the Mornington Crescent tube station is a corner of Greater London House, previously Carreras’ cigarette factory; behind that but invisible from the main street is the beautifully curving Mornington Crescent itself. Apart from the architectural mix, the most tempting things to draw on this street are the people: young, cheerful, wildly dressed and, like the stallholders themselves, cosmopolitan and polyglot.

Vanished shopfronts in the Camden High Street and Hampstead Road; the first have been tidied up, the second demolished. Nearby there used to be an art materials shop, handy for the Euston Road artists and the Slade students.

Camden High Street, 1984
Hampstead Road, 1984

The name of the Dublin Castle reflects the immigrant labourers who dug the canal and the railway cuttings.

The Dublin Castle in Parkway, 2019
Jeweller’s shop, Camden High Street, 2018
Ex-petshop, now a bakers’ shop and cafe, Parkway, 2019

Britannia Junction is an open space for performing, hanging around and meeting people in, and a bus and tube intersection where six roads meet. Strange but popular square wooden benches have been added since I drew it, good for chatting on and for keeping cars off the pavement.

The more recent newcomers – chain stores, supermarkets – have their own familiar brand shopfront fascias at ground-floor level but above this most of them put up with nondescript existing facades, and some are now becoming being victims of online shopping and closing down.

Britannia Junction, 2018

Six intersecting roads, each with its own vistas and vanishing points and different in character, and good seen from the top of a bus.

Britannia Junction, looking north-west and north, 2018
Britannia Junction, looking south-east, 2019
Saxophonist and accordianist, clowns

Buskers come out in force on Saturdays and Sundays – professional, well costumed and friendly to the audiences that cluster round them. Their activity is a good subject because it’s both interesting and repetitive.

Mad Hatter’s tea party, dragon, horn player
Camden Town tube station’s exits, 2019
Camden High Street shopfronts, 2019
Camden High Street, Bowman’s ex-furnishing emporium, 2018
Camden Town tube station’s entrance on Kentish Town Road, 2019

On the High Street, people sleeping rough are shocking presences as soon as you leave the Underground. Passers-by intent on their errands are too busy to notice or mind or stop for those who are begging or busking around them. The determined man who patiently chalks his own thoughts on the pavement is unmistakeable and hard at work; the others are just there, waiting.

People begging, sleeping or busking on Britannia Junction and Camden High Street

Crowds moving about are fascinating but difficult to capture on paper. Usually there’s no time to draw them carefully, but having to jot down figures running past before they vanish can help even a scribble to look vivid and real, as if it had been drawn in a sort of shorthand. Including people gives scale to a scene, and drawing attitudes, clothes and movements can give life to it. Character is interesting, caricature isn’t.

Camden High Street ends at Mornington Crescent, 2018

Carreras’ cigarette factory, a handsome art deco building of the late twenties and a monument to a profitable if deadly product. Its facade is in Egyptian Revival style; now it houses offices and amenities. It was built on a public garden, obliterating the views of and from the real Mornington Crescent that survives just behind it. This crescent was home to Dickens and the Camden Town Group of painters, Sickert, Gilman and Spencer Gore, and Auerbach’s studio is nearby.

Greater London House, previously Carreras’ cigarette factory, 2018
People in Camden High Street, 2018