Explore Victoria 2013

VISITOR INFORMATION
Melbourne Visitor Centre
→ Federation Square, cnr Flinders
and Swanston sts
(03) 9658 9658
www.visitmelbourne.com

Melbourne is renowned as Australia’s cultural capital. The city has a decidedly European feel, with neo-Gothic banks and cathedrals, much-loved department stores, art galleries and theatres around every corner. And hidden among these buildings is a string of vibrant laneways given over to cafe culture and boutique shopping. Yet Melbourne wouldn’t be Melbourne without sport – seeing a footy match at the MCG is a must.

Melbourne was born in 1835, and quickly became a city. With the boom of Victoria’s goldfields, unbelievable wealth was poured into public buildings and tramways, grand boulevards and High Victorian masterpieces.

Today Melbourne’s population of around 4 077 000 still enjoys the good life, at the very centre of which is a love of good food and fine dining. You can find comfort food in a cosy corner pub or meals with a view and a waterfront setting – a trend in so many of the country’s coastal cities. Southbank, the shopping and eating precinct on the Yarra River, has become an extension of the city centre, while Docklands is the city’s latest waterside area.

You might come to Melbourne for the dining and the shopping; the gardens and the architecture; the arts and music; the football, cricket and tennis. The city has as much diversity as it has suburbs, and at last check these were marching right down the Mornington Peninsula.

Flinders Street Station is the CBD’s major train station. Three other landmarks face it: Federation Square (see next entry), St Paul’s Cathedral and the Young and Jackson Hotel. Across Swanston Street is the grandiose St Paul’s Cathedral, built in 1891. Its mosaic interior is well worth a look.

Melbourne’s most significant building project in decades has a central piazza paved with 7500 square metres of coloured Kimberley sandstone, surrounded by bars, cafes, restaurants and shops. Down by the river, Federation Wharf is home to Rentabike (see Getting around) and a departure point for river cruises (see Walks and tours). Fed Square’s must-visit attractions are the Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia and the Australian Centre for the Moving Image.

Indigenous art – traditional and modern – as well as colonial artists, such as Tom Roberts and Arthur Streeton, fill this gallery, dedicated to Australian art. The NGV Kids Corner is outstanding for pre-schoolers. Federation Sq; (03) 8620 2222; open 10am–5pm Tues–Sun; general admission free. The National Gallery of Victoria’s international collection can be found on St Kilda Rd.

ACMI explores all guises of the moving image. Cinemas screen films and darkened galleries exhibit screen-based art and temporary exhibitions. Check the newspapers for film screenings or visit the website (www.acmi.net.au). Federation Sq; (03) 8663 2200, bookings (03) 8663 2583; open 10am–6pm daily, open later for scheduled film screenings; general admission free.

Walk down the east side and see a grand, tree-lined boulevard, significant historic buildings (see Grand old buildings) and quirky sculptures, while the west side is overcrowded with discount stores, souvenir shops and fast-food outlets. The street is closed to cars other than taxis.

This is Melbourne’s most dignified street. The ‘Paris end’, towards the east, has a European ambience and designer boutiques. Near Elizabeth Street is Australia on Collins, housing Australian fashion labels and a food court. Towards Spencer Street are impressive buildings, such as the Old ANZ Bank (see Grand old buildings).

From Flinders Street Station to Bourke Street Mall are narrow, darkened, bustling laneways filled with cafes, fashion boutiques and jewellers.

The section of Degraves Street closest to Flinders Lane is closed to cars and is full of cafes spilling onto the paved street. Across from Degraves Street is Centre Place, with more eateries and designer-fashion outlets.

Block Arcade runs between Collins and Little Collins streets. It boasts Italian mosaic floors, ornate glass ceilings, tearooms and exclusive boutiques. Follow the arcade to Elizabeth Street, or to the laneway that joins it to Little Collins Street, where there are yet more cafes.

Over Little Collins Street is Australia’s oldest arcade, Royal Arcade. Above the entrance stand two giants, Gog and Magog, of the ancient British legend. You can take Royal Arcade to Bourke Street Mall or Elizabeth Street. (To get to the mall you can also take the adjacent, cafe-lined Causeway.)

Bourke Street Mall is the heart of Melbourne’s shopping district, with the big department stores Myer and David Jones and brandname fashion outlets. Between Elizabeth and Swanston streets the mall is only open to trams and pedestrians. At the west end is Melbourne’s GPO, once the city’s post office but now a smart shopping complex showcasing a who’s who of fashion labels, cafes and bars.

Flinders Lane is home to an array of art galleries (see Flinders Lane galleries), including the Anna Schwartz Gallery. Expect to be surprised and delighted, especially if you’re into conceptual art. Corner Flinders Lane and Swanston Street is the Nicholas Building, home to numerous small, artist-run spaces. Anna Schwartz Gallery: 185 Flinders La; (03) 9654 6131; open 12–6pm Tues–Fri, 1-5pm Sat; admission free.

Between Bourke and Lonsdale streets, west of Bourke Street Mall, is Hardware Lane, where office workers and bar seekers crowd at lunchtime and in the evenings. The cobblestone paving, window boxes and the brightly painted old buildings add to the atmosphere.

Built in Renaissance Revival style and set off by a dazzling coat of arms, the building was originally constructed to mint the bounty from Victoria’s goldfields. In 1968 it became home to the Hellenic Museum, displaying Byzantine objects and displays related to Greek migration to Australia. 280 William St; (03) 8615 9016; open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri.

Beside the Yarra River, journey into the depths of the ocean, past rockpool and mangrove habitats, jellyfish, and a close-up encounter with sharks and stingrays. See King and Gentoo penguins plus other Antarctic creatures in the Antarctica exhibition. Cnr King and Flinders sts; (03) 9923 5999; open 9.30am–6pm daily.

Far from being specialist, this museum is about Australia’s most relevant characteristic since settlement. It explores journeys, tumultuous new beginnings, and the various cultures brought here over the years. It also investigates our changing government policies on immigration, and how they continue to shape Australia. 400 Flinders St; (03) 99272700; open 10am–5pm daily.

Walking through this centre you will realise the drastic, violent and totally irreversible changes made to a culture over 40 000 years old. Displays take you through the traditions, lifestyle, and history of Aboriginal people of south-eastern Australia. There are also changing exhibitions by local Aboriginal artists. 295 King St; (03) 8622 2600; open 9am–4.45pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat–Sun; entry by donation.

This famous market is spread across 7 hectares under the shelter of a massive shed. There is a meat hall, fruit, vegetable and herb stalls. On Saturdays the aisles are crammed, and the clothing and souvenir stalls make this a hot spot for tourists too. Main entrance cnr Elizabeth and Victoria sts; (03) 9320 5822; open 6am–2pm Tues and Thurs, 6am–5pm Fri, 6am–3pm Sat, 9am–4pm Sun. On Wednesday evenings in summer, enjoy the Suzuki Night Market, with live music, international food, and clothing and craft stalls.

Originally Burial Hill – where many of Melbourne’s early settlers ended up – these were Melbourne’s first public gardens and once served as a signalling station for ships arriving from Britain. It is now a lovely space, with lawns, established trees, sporting facilities and barbecues. Bounded by William, Latrobe, King and Dudley sts; sports bookings (03) 9663 5888.

From 1901 to 1927 this was the seat of federal government. Free tours run when parliament is not sitting (see parliament’s website: www.parliament.vic.gov.au). Spring St, facing Bourke St; (03) 9651 8911. South of parliament, facing Collins St, is the Old Treasury Building, housing the Victorian Marriage Registry. Find the Built on Gold exhibition and temporary exhibitions here too. Spring St; (03) 9651 2233; open 10am–4pm Sun–Fri; admission free.

This laneway boasts the highest concentration of commercial galleries in Australia, mainly between Spring and Swanston streets. With a focus on Indigenous and contemporary art, standout galleries include Flinders Lane Gallery and Anna Schwartz Gallery (see Art spaces); and Craft Victoria, which fosters creativity in craft and design. Flinders Lane Gallery: 137 Flinders La; (03) 9654 3332; open 11am–6pm Tues–Fri, 11am–4pm Sat. Craft Victoria: 31 Flinders La; (03) 9650 7775; open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat; admission free.

Between Swanston, Lonsdale, Russell and Little Lonsdale streets is QV Melbourne, divided up into a series of laneways: high-end fashion stores line Albert Coates Lane, while Artemis Lane is a wonderland of homewares. You can also explore Red Cape and Jane Bell lanes. (The names relate to the site’s history – it was once the site of the Queen Victoria Women’s Hospital, a part of which still remains.) (03) 9207 9200; open 10am–6pm Mon–Wed and Sat, 10am–7pm Thurs, 10am–9pm Fri, 10am–5pm Sun.

Pre-Fed Square, this Roman-style building was the city centre’s biggest public space and the main meeting spot for demonstrations. It houses an impressive five-storey octagonal reading room, several art galleries, and is home to the Wheeler Centre: Books, Writing and Ideas, the centrepiece of Melbourne’s UNESCO City of Literature Initiative, hosting a year-round literary program. Cnr Lonsdale and Swanston sts; (03) 8664 7000; open 10am–9pm Mon–Thurs, 10am–6pm Fri–Sun.

Many notorious early Victorian criminals were executed here. For the brave, take a Hangman’s Night Tour (four times a week at 8.30pm, 7.30pm in winter) or a ghost hunt (held monthly); contact Ticketek (13 2849). Russell St, between Victoria and Latrobe sts; (03) 8663 7228; open 9.30am–5pm daily; at 12.30pm and 2pm Sat the story of Ned Kelly, ‘Such a Life’, is performed (free with entry).

Chinatown has flourished since the first Chinese migrated to Victoria at the beginning of the gold rush. Decorated archways herald the entrance to the Little Bourke Street strip at the Swanston, Russell and Exhibition street ends. The Chinese Museum, in Cohen Place off Little Bourke Street, tells of Chinese migration during the gold rush, and houses Dai Loong (Big Dragon), which roams the streets during Chinese New Year. 22 Cohen PI; (03) 96622888; open 10am–5pm daily.

The section of Lonsdale Street between Russell and Swanston streets is the centre of Melbourne’s Greek community. On the southern side are Greek bookshops, music stores, cafes and restaurants.

Built above the underground railway station of the same name, the shopping and entertainment complex surrounds a historic nine-storey shot tower, preserved under a massive glass cone. (03) 9922 1122; open 10am–6pm Mon–Thurs and Sat, 10am–9pm Fri, 10am–5pm Sun.

At 300 metres, this is Melbourne’s tallest building and boasts the Southern Hemisphere’s highest viewing platform. The top ten levels feature 24-carat, gold-plated glass. On the 88th floor, Eureka Skydeck 88 offers a 360-degree view of the city, bay and mountains. For a heart-stopping experience, step inside The Edge, a three-metre glass cube that projects out of the side of the building. 7 Riverside Quay, Southbank; (03) 9693 8888; open 10am–10pm daily.

Southgate was an industrial site that was slowly reinvented. Apartments, office blocks, shops, restaurants and a tree-lined promenade form what is today an essential part of Melbourne, with a food court, restaurants, bars and shops that become increasingly exclusive the higher up the complex you go. (03) 96861000; open 10am–7pm Mon–Thurs, 10am–8pm Fri and Sat, 10am–6pm Sun; food court breakfast-dinner.

This huge complex begins just over Queensbridge Street. As well as a casino, Crown contains shops, a food court, nightclubs and cinemas. Restaurants include world-class dining such as Neil Perry’s Rockpool Bar and Grill, Japanese restaurant Nobu and Silks for Chinese banquets. Big names in fashion like Versace and Prada reside here too. 8 Whiteman St, Southbank; (03) 9292 8888.

Over Clarendon Street from Crown is this venue for most of Melbourne’s major expos. 2 Clarendon St, South Wharf; (03) 9235 8000.

Next to the centre in Duke’s Dock is the 1885 tall ship Polly Woodside. Step aboard for a journey into Melbourne’s maritime history. 2A Clarendon St, South Wharf; (03) 9699 9760; open 9.30am–5pm daily.

The Arts Centre consists of Hamer Hall and the Theatres Building beneath its distinctive lattice spire, which is intended to resemble a ballerina’s tutu. The Theatres Building includes three theatres: the State Theatre, the Playhouse, and the Fairfax Studio. There is also Gallery 1, the main exhibition space for the Performing Arts Collection, which preserves a variety of Australian performing-arts memorabilia. 100 St Kilda Rd; (03) 9281 8000, bookings on 1300 182 183; open 8am–end of last performance daily; general admission free.

Since 1968 this large grey building has been the home of the NGV. Its highly regarded international component has permanent and touring exhibitions. There are more than 30 galleries, the iconic water curtain at the entrance, and a magnificent stained-glass roof by Leonard French at the back. 180 St Kilda Rd; (03) 8620 2222; open 10am–5pm daily; general admission free. NGV Australia can be found at Federation Square.

The Malthouse Theatre, the Australian Centre for Contemporary Art (ACCA) and the new Melbourne Recital Centre (MRC)/ Melbourne Theatre Company (MTC) complex sit on Sturt Street. Once a malt factory, the Malthouse Theatre is home to the contemporary Malthouse Theatre company. Next door, the ACCA is housed in a rusted-steel building intended to resemble Uluru against a blue sky. Contemporary exhibitions run inside. CUB Malthouse: 113 Sturt St; bookings on (03) 9685 5111. ACCA: 111 Sturt St; (03) 96979999; open 10am–5pm Tues–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat–Sun and public holidays; admission free.

Resembling a giant beehive in parts, the Melbourne Recital Centre comprises the Elisabeth Murdoch Hall for chamber music, the smaller Salon and a cafe-bar. Adjacent is the Melbourne Theatre Company in an equally cutting-edge structure. Cnr Sturt St and Southbank Blvd, Southbank; MRC bookings on (03) 9699 3333, MTC bookings on (03) 8688 0800.

Set in the Kings Domain gardens, the iconic Sidney Myer Music Bowl is a massive grassy amphitheatre. It hosts numerous summer events, including the annual Christmas extravaganza, Carols by Candlelight, and free concerts by the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra. Linlithgow Ave, Kings Domain; (03) 9281 8000.

Bordered by the Yarra and St Kilda Road is a series of public gardens, including Kings Domain and the Royal Botanic Gardens. In Kings Domain are the Sidney Myer Music Bowl (see previous entry) and the Shrine of Remembrance, commemorating generations of Australian war veterans. The shrine is the centre for ANZAC Day commemorations. Birdwood Ave, South Yarra; (03) 9661 8100; open 10am–5pm daily; admission free.

East of the shrine is La Trobe’s Cottage, a prefabricated house built in England and brought to Australia for Victoria’s first lieutenant governor. Government House is located nearby. Cnr Birdwood Ave and Dallas Brooks Drive; (03) 9656 9800; open 2–4pm Sun, Oct–May, and select days June–Sept. Tours of La Trobe’s Cottage and Government House, Mon and Wed; (03) 8663 7260.

Opposite the shrine, across Birdwood Avenue, is Observatory Gate, surrounding the Royal Botanic Gardens, with its cafe and the historic Melbourne Observatory. The visitor centre has information on garden walks and activities (see Walks and tours). The Ian Potter Foundation Children’s Garden is an interactive space for kids, with a program of activities. In summer the gardens host Moonlight Cinema, screening new releases and classics. Birdwood Ave; (03) 9252 2300; open 7pm-sunset daily Dec-Mar; Ian Potter Foundation Children’s Garden open 10am-sunset, Wed-Sun in school term time and daily in school holidays, but closed eight weeks in winter.

For a riverfront picnic spot, look across to Alexandra Avenue. Free gas barbecues dot the Yarra bank from Swan Street Bridge to Anderson Street.

Between the city and Richmond and Abbotsford are Melbourne’s biggest sporting venues, scattered on either side of the rail yards. The two major ones are the MCG and Melbourne Park, incorporating the Rod Laver and Hisense arenas, and home of the Australian Open and big-ticket concerts. Heading towards Richmond, AAMI Park in the Olympic Park precinct is the home of Melbourne Rebels (Rugby Union), Melbourne Storm (Rugby League) and Melbourne Victory (soccer). Olympic Blvd; (03) 9286 1600.

At the northern end of Docklands, NewQuay and Waterfront City comprise high-rise apartments, offices, shops, galleries, marinas and the bulk of Docklands’ bars and restaurants. There’s Wonderland Fun Park, with a host of rides for kids, and Medibank Icehouse, a world-class ice-sports and entertainment venue. 1300 756 699; open daily; session times and events www.icehouse.com.au. There’s also Harbour Town shopping centre, and the weekly Sunday Market (10am–5pm) for trash and treasure at Waterfront City Promenade.

This is a major venue for Australian Football League (AFL) games, other sporting events and concerts. Take a ‘Behind the Scenes’ tour to inspect, among other things, the AFL players’ change rooms and the coaches’ box. The one-hour tours leave at 11am, 1pm and 3pm Monday to Friday from the Customer Service Centre opposite Gates 2 and 3; different times on event days. Bound by Bourke and Latrobe sts, Wurundjeri Way and Harbour Esplanade; tour bookings (03) 8625 7277.

This self-guide urban art tour takes you past more than 30 superb, large-scale public artworks, including the whimsical wind-powered Blowhole, the sublimely sculptural Webb Bridge, and the amusing Cow Up A Tree. Barbecues, recreation areas and a children’s playground line the way. Information from the Melbourne Visitor Information Centre, or the Docklands website (www.docklands.com).

There are up to 50 vintage vehicles on display here, including Bentley, Jaguar, Rolls Royce and some ultra-cool Porsche and Mercedes Benz, in the historic Queen’s Warehouse building. Cnr Batmans Hill Dr and Collins St; (03) 9620 4086; open 10am–2pm Tues Feb–Nov.

The northern end of Chapel Street, between Toorak and Commercial roads, is fashion central. Further down is the Jam Factory, a shopping complex, cinema and food court in the old Australian Jam Company premises.

On Commercial Road, off Chapel Street, is the Prahran Market, Australia’s oldest continually running market. 163 Commercial Rd, South Yarra; (03) 8290 8220; open 7am–5pm Tues, Thurs and Sat, 7am–6pm Fri, 10am–3pm Sun.

Further on, Greville Street runs off to the west, lined with cafes, bars, hip clothing shops and original occupants such as Greville Records.

South of Greville Street is Chapel Street Bazaar, a treasure trove for collectors. South of Commercial Road, Chapel Street is more down-to-earth, lined with interesting cafes, restaurants and bohemian shops.

Stroll around the gardens and take a tour of this National Trust-listed mansion. You can visit the gorgeous cafe (open Wednesday to Sunday) without paying admission. Nearby take a punt from Como Landing across to Herring Island with its sculpture park and barbecue facilities. Como House: cnr Williams Rd and Lechlade Ave, South Yarra; (03) 9827 2500; open 10am–4pm Wed, Sat–Sun, daily May–Aug. Herring Island punt: open 11am–5pm Sat–Sun Dec–Apr.

This is Carlton’s main artery and the centre of Melbourne’s Italian population, with restaurants, cafes, bookstores, clothing shops and the excellent Cinema Nova. Stop for authentic pasta, pizza, gelato and coffee at places such as Brunetti, on Faraday Street, an institution for Italian-pastry lovers. Rathdowne Street, parallel to Lygon Street, also has more cafes, restaurants and shops.

Brunswick Street offers an eclectic mix of cafes, pubs, live-music venues and shops, as well as leisurely breakfasts at cafes such as Babka and Marios.

This is Melbourne’s most significant historic building, and Australia’s first man-made structure to achieve World Heritage status. It is considered an enduring monument to the international exhibition movement, and no comparable ‘great halls’ survive elsewhere in the world. At dusk its lit-up vista harks back to the heady days of 1880s Melbourne. Interior tours run from the adjacent Melbourne Museum at 2pm daily when the building is not in use (bookings 13 1102). The area comes alive during the Melbourne International Flower and Garden Show (Mar–Apr). 11 Nicholson St, Carlton.

Housed next to the Royal Exhibition Building is this museum, featuring dinosaur skeletons, a living rainforest and impressive science displays. It is also the resting place of Phar Lap, Australia’s champion racing horse, standing proud and tall in a dimly lit room. Bunjilaka is an Aboriginal cultural centre, telling the Koorie story from the Koorie perspective. In the same building is the IMAX Melbourne, screening films in 2-D and 3-D. Melbourne Museum: Nicholson St, Carlton; 13 1102 or 1300130 152; open 10am–5pm daily.

Australia’s oldest zoo is a far cry from caged zoos of the past. Elephants live in a re-creation of an Asian rainforest, complete with a plunge pool, while the Butterfly House is another wonder. From mid-January to mid-March the zoo runs evening jazz sessions called Zoo Twilights. Elliott Ave, Parkville; (03) 9285 9300; open 9am–5pm daily, to 9.30pm for Zoo Twilights.

Bridge Road, between Hoddle and Church streets, is a shopper’s heaven, filled with designer-clothing stores and factory outlets. Between Church and Burnley streets are restaurants of various cuisines. Swan Street, south of Bridge Road, is good for wining and dining, and features the Corner Hotel, staging local and international bands.

Victoria Street, north of Bridge Road, is a living piece of Vietnam. From Hoddle Street to Church Street it overflows with Asian grocery stores and Vietnamese restaurants.

A footy or cricket match at the ‘G’, as it is known, is a must-see. But if you visit in the off-season then take a tour on non-event days, 10am–3pm, from Gate 3 in the Olympic Stand. Tour prices can include entry to the MCG’s interactive National Sports Museum, with artefacts including legendary cricketer Sir Don Bradman’s baggy green cap. Brunton Ave, Richmond; open 10am–5pm daily; (03) 9657 8879.

This is one of a handful of public gardens surrounding the CBD. It boasts Cooks’ Cottage, a fairy tree and a model Tudor village. Cook’s Cottage: (03) 9419 4677; open 9am–5pm daily.

This bushland sanctuary is a few minutes’ drive from the city. Enjoy walking tracks, a golf course, and boat-hire facilities and a cafe at the historic Studley Park Boathouse. Off Studley Park Rd, Kew; (03) 9853 1828; boathouse and kiosk open 9am–5pm daily.

Fitzroy Street has shoulder-to-shoulder cafes, restaurants, bars and pubs leading to a palm-lined foreshore and St Kilda Pier with its historic kiosk.

The foreshore path goes from Port Melbourne in the north to beyond Brighton in the south and is packed with cyclists, rollerbladers and walkers. The Esplanade Hotel (The Espy) is an integral part of Melbourne’s live-music scene, and The Palais Theatre, a grand, French-style theatre, is the venue for concerts. Next door is Luna Park, and an arts and crafts market runs on The Esplanade every Sunday (see Markets).

On Acland Street are the famous continental cake shops, and south from St Kilda is a string of swimming beaches, including Brighton Beach with its trademark colourful bathing boxes.

This iconic fun park retains the colour and thrill of its heyday in the early 20th century. Traditional rides like the carousel, Ferris wheel and rollercoaster now sit among the heart-racing Shock Drop, Enterprise and G Force. Lower Esplanade, St Kilda; (03) 9525 5033; see www.lunapark.com.au for monthly operating hours.

The gardens of this grand Romanesque mansion yield hidden water features, paths and beautiful picnic spots. 192 Hotham St, Elsternwick; (03) 9523 6095; gardens open 10am–5pm daily; entry to house by tour, last departure 3.30pm.

Surrounded by beautiful parklands and intriguing sculptures, this was home to John and Sunday Reed, patrons of the arts in the 1930s and 40s, who founded its museum of modern art. Cafe Vue at Heide, operated by renowned chef Shannon Bennett of Vue de Monde, offers wonderful fare. 7 Templestowe Rd, Bulleen; (03) 9850 1500; open 10am–5pm Tues–Sun; restaurant (03) 9852 2346; open 10am–5pm Tues–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat and Sun; admission free to gardens and sculpture park. 1300 336 932.

CITY ESSENTIALS

MELBOURNE

Climate

‘Four seasons in one day’ is a familiar phrase to all Melburnians. It might reach 38°C in the morning then drop to 20°C in the afternoon – and the weather the next day is anyone’s guess. Generally though, winter is cold – daytime temperatures of 11–12°C are not unusual – and spring is wet. January and February are hot, with temperatures anywhere between the mid 20s and high 30s. The favourite season of many locals is autumn, when the weather is usually dry and stable.

Getting around

Melbourne’s trams are an icon, but also a very good way of getting around the city. The City Circle tram is free and extends to Docklands. Trams depart every 12 minutes between 10am and 6pm from Sunday to Wednesday, and till 9pm from Thursday to Saturday. Other (paid) services head out into the suburbs, with especially good coverage of the eastern, south-eastern and northern suburbs. A map of the different services can be found inside most trams.

Trains are generally a faster option if there is a service that goes to your destination. Details of services can be found at each of the five stations in the CBD (see map).

Buses tend to cover the areas that trains and trams don’t service. The free Melbourne City Tourist Shuttle is a hop-on, hop-off bus service stopping at 13 key city destinations. The service runs every 30 minutes between 9.30am and 4.30pm daily and includes an informative onboard commentary. Details of routes and stops can be found at www.thatsmelbourne.com.au, or pick up a brochure from the Melbourne Visitor Information Centre at Federation Square.

Melbourne’s public transport system is progressively moving from Metcard tickets to plastic myki smart cards. Initially, myki will only be available for train travel. While this is happening you will notice two types of ticketing equipment on the train, tram and bus networks. The price of your journey will depend on which of the two ‘zones’ you need to travel to. For an update on ticketing and an excellent journey planner facility, see www.metlinkmelbourne.com.au

For drivers, the much-talked-about feature of Melbourne’s roads is the hook-turn, a process of moving to the left of the road in order to turn right, and therefore getting out of the way of trams. If you wish to use the tollways CityLink or the new EastLink, either an e-TAG or a day pass is required (there are no tollbooths, but day passes can be purchased over the phone either before or after making a journey).

Public transport Tram, train and bus information line 13 1638.

Airport shuttle bus Skybus (03) 9335 2811.

Tollways CityLink 13 2629; EastLink 13 5465.

Motoring organisation RACV 13 7228, roadside assistance 13 1111.

Car rental Avis 13 6333; Budget 1300 362 848; Hertz 13 3039; Thrifty 1300 367 227.

Taxis 13CABS 13 2227; Silver Top 13 1008; West Suburban (03) 9689 1144.

Water taxi Melbourne Water Taxis 0416 068 655.

Tourist buses AAT Kings (03) 9663 3377; Australian Pacific Tours 1300 655 965.

Bicycle hire Rentabike @ Federation Square 0417 339 203; Bike Now (South Melbourne) (03) 9696 8588; St Kilda Cycles (03) 9534 3074.

Top events

Australian Open One of the world’s four major tennis Grand Slams. January.

Australian Grand Prix Elite motor racing and plenty of off-track entertainment. March.

Melbourne Food and Wine Festival Eat your way through Melbourne and regional Victoria. March.

Melbourne International Comedy Festival Just as many laughs as in Edinburgh and Montreal. April.

Melbourne International Film Festival Features, shorts and experimental pieces from around the world. July–August.

AFL Grand Final The whole city goes footymad. September.

Melbourne International Arts Festival Visual arts, theatre, dance and music in indoor and outdoor venues. The alternative Melbourne Fringe Festival usually overlaps. October.

Melbourne Cup The pinnacle of the Spring Racing Carnival. November.

Boxing Day Test Boxing Day in Melbourne wouldn’t be the same without this cricket match. December.

Museums and galleries

ANZ Banking Museum Old money boxes, staff uniforms, historic displays and an interactive ATM exhibit in the glorious Gothic setting of the Old ANZ Bank. 380 Collins St; open 10am–3pm Mon–Fri; admission free.

Fire Services Museum Huge collection of fire brigade memorabilia, including vintage vehicles and historic photos. 39 Gisborne St, East Melbourne; (03) 9662 2907; open 9am–3pm Thurs and Fri, 10am–4pm Sun.

Ian Potter Museum of Art An extensive art collection, including cultural artefacts and contemporary artworks. University of Melbourne, Swanston St, between Faraday and Elgin sts, Parkville; (03) 8344 5148; open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 12pm–5pm Sat and Sun; admission free.

Jewish Museum of Australia A record of the experiences of Australia’s many Jewish migrants. 26 Alma Rd, St Kilda; (03) 8534 3600; open 10am–4pm Tues–Thurs, 10am–5pm Sun.

Montsalvat An artist’s colony that began in 1934; magnificent French provincial buildings and artworks for view in the gallery. 7 Hillcrest Ave, Eltham; (03) 9439 7712; open 9am–5pm daily.

Victoria Police Museum Victoria’s life of crime revealed, from the capture of Ned Kelly to the Hoddle Street shootings. Mezzanine Level, World Trade Centre, 637 Flinders St; (03) 9247 5214; open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri; admission free. See also City Museum at Old Treasury, Immigration Museum, Koorie Heritage Trust, ACCA, Heide Museum of Modern Art, Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia, NGV International, Australian Centre for the Moving Image.

Grand old buildings

Old ANZ Bank Known as the Gothic Bank, with an incredible, gold-leafed interior and a banking museum. 380 Collins St.

Manchester Unity Building Chicago-style building with stark vertical lines, once the city’s tallest skyscraper. Cnr Collins and Swanston sts.

Capitol Theatre Designed by the architects of Canberra with a ceiling that will amaze you. 109–117 Swanston St.

St Patrick’s Cathedral Victoria’s largest church building, built with tonnes of Footscray bluestone. Cnr Gisborne St and Cathedral Pl, East Melbourne.

Princess Theatre The dramatic exterior culminates in three domes with cast-iron tiaras. 163 Spring St.

Forum Theatre Moorish domes, and a starry night sky on the inner ceiling of the main theatre. Cnr Russell and Flinders sts.

St Paul’s Cathedral Gothic cathedral made of sandstone. Cnr Flinders and Swanston sts.

Old Melbourne Magistrates’ Court The rough sandstone exterior and deeply set archways make for a grim atmosphere. Cnr Russell and Latrobe sts.

Olderfleet Building An intricate Gotham City facade. Nearby is The Rialto, designed by the same architect. 477 Collins St.

Regent Theatre Melbourne’s most glamorous theatre, with an interior of Spanish-style lattice and red carpet. 191 Collins St.

St James’ Old Cathedral A humble relic of Melbourne’s founding years. 419–435 King St.

University of Melbourne More historic buildings than you can count. Parkville.

Hotel Windsor Layered like a wedding cake and fit for a queen. 111 Spring St.

City Baths A feast of domes on the skyline, this building dates back to the days when bathrooms were a luxury few could afford. Cnr Swanston and Victoria sts.

Shopping

Bourke Street Mall, City With department stores Myer and David Jones as well as the swish Melbourne GPO.

Bridge Road, Richmond Back-to-back factory outlets and designer warehouses.

Brunswick Street and Gertrude Street, Fitzroy Unique design and fashion stores.

Chapel Street, South Yarra Where shopping is an event to dress up for.

Collins Street, City Glamorous shopping strip with the big names in high-end fashion. Check out the boutique-style shopping on adjacent Flinders Lane and Little Collins Street too.

DFO, South Wharf Shopping mall of factory outlets for bargain hunters.

Melbourne Central and QV Melbourne, City These two nearby precincts are a shopper’s paradise.

Southgate, Southbank A classy range of clothing, art and gifts.

Markets

Camberwell Market Melbourne’s best trash and treasure event. Sun. J6

CERES Market Count your organic food miles as you shop at this community-run environmental park in Brunswick East. Cafe, nursery and inspiration for greening your life. Wed and Sat. E1

Collingwood Children’s Farm – Farmers’ Market Victorian produce, from free-range eggs to fresh fruit and vegetables, in a lovely setting on the Yarra. 2nd Sat each month. F3

The Esplanade Market St Kilda Melbourne’s oldest art and craft market, with over 200 artisans. Sun. D6

Flemington Racecourse Market Art, craft and regional produce. 3rd or 4th Sun each month. B2

South Melbourne Market Produce, deli items, clothing and homewares. Wed and Fri–Sun. D4

St Andrews Market Laid-back market with alternative crafts, foods, music and clothing, an hour’s drive from the city. Sat. K4

Sunday Market, Southbank Crafts galore, leading from the Arts Centre. C5

Walks and tours

Aboriginal Heritage Walk With an Aboriginal guide and a gum leaf for a ticket, stroll through the Royal Botanic Gardens and learn about the bushfoods, medicines and traditional lore of the Boonerwrung and Woiwurrung people, whose traditional lands meet here. Bookings on (03) 9252 2429; 11am Thurs–Fri and 1st Sun each month.

Carlton United Brewery Tours Free tastings of CUB draught beers are preceded by a tour around Abbotsford Brewery, the home of Fosters. Bookings on (03) 9420 6800; 10am, 12pm and 2pm Mon–Fri.

Chocoholic Tours A range of tours to get you drooling, taking in Melbourne’s best chocolatiers, candy-makers, ice-creameries and cafes. Bookings on (03) 9686 4655.

Foodies’ Tours Get tips on picking the best fresh produce, meet the specialist traders and taste samples from the deli at Queen Victoria Market. Bookings on (03) 9320 5835; 10am Tues and Thurs–Sat.

Golden Mile Heritage Trail Walk with a guide or navigate this trail on your own. It leads from the Immigration Museum to Melbourne Museum, taking in historic buildings and heritage attractions along the way (walkers gain discounted entry to various places). Bookings 1300 780 045, or get a self-guide brochure from the Melbourne Visitor Information Centre at Federation Square. 10am daily.

Harley Rides Take the Introduction to Melbourne tour, exploring the bay and over the West Gate Bridge with the wind whistling through your hair. Bookings on 1800 182 282; tours daily.

Haunted Melbourne Ghost Tours Get the adrenalin pumping as you traipse down dark alleys and enter city buildings that the ghosts of early Melbourne are known to haunt. Bookings on (03) 9670 2585.

Hidden Secrets Tours Various tours focusing on the city’s laneways, innovative fashion, design, architecture and food culture. Bookings on (03) 9663 3358.

River Cruises A trip down the Yarra or the Maribyrnong or across to Williamstown will give you new views of Melbourne. Melbourne River Cruises (03) 8610 2600, City River Cruises (03) 9650 2214, Williamstown Ferry (03) 9517 9444, Maribyrnong River Cruises (03) 9689 6431.

Parks and gardens

Albert Park A great spot for exercising around the lake, and the site for the Australian Formula One Grand Prix. Albert Park. D5

Birrarung Marr Melbourne’s newest park, with sculptural displays, a colourful playground and a bike track leading up to Federation Square. City. D4

Brimbank Park With wetlands, a children’s farm, a visitor centre with a cafe and walking trails along the Maribyrnong River. Keilor. C5

Eltham Lower Park Featuring the Diamond Valley Miniature Railway, which offers rides for kids on Sun 11am–5pm. Eltham. F5

Gasworks Arts Park Sculptures, native gardens, barbecues, a cafe and artist studios in the former South Melbourne Gasworks. Albert Park. C5

Jells Park A haven for waterbirds and a great place for a stroll through the bush. Wheelers Hill. F7

Wattle Park Native bush and birds, a nine-hole golf course and accessible by tram. Surrey Hills. F6

Westerfolds Park On the Yarra and popular for canoeing and cycling, with the Mia Mia Aboriginal Art Gallery on top of the hill. Templestowe. F4

Yarra Bend Park Closest bushland to the city, with boats for hire, a golf course, great views and a strong Aboriginal heritage. Kew/Fairfield. F2

See also Royal Botanic Gardens.

Entertainment

Cinema The major cinemas in the city are Hoyts in Melbourne Central’s On3 entertainment floor and Greater Union in Russell Street. For arthouse films, try Kino Cinemas in Collins Place. Standout cinemas in the inner-city area include: Cinema Nova in Carlton for a great range of popular and arthouse films; Village Jam Factory in South Yarra or Village in the Crown Entertainment Complex for a Hollywood-style experience; the Rivoli in Camberwell for an old-world cinema experience; and the Astor in St Kilda East, where they play re-runs of the classics and recent releases. See daily newspapers for details.

Live music Melbourne is renowned for its live-music scene. Fitzroy is one of the major centres of original music, with venues like Bar Open and the Evelyn hosting bands most nights. Further north is the Northcote Social Club, with local and international acts. On the south side of town is The Esplanade Hotel (The Espy) in St Kilda, one of Melbourne’s best original rock venues, and in Richmond there’s the Corner Hotel, showing many local acts. For jazz, try Bennetts Lane Jazz Club, off Little Lonsdale Street. The Toff, located in the historic Curtin House, hosts local and international music from pop to country. Bigger local and international acts play at other venues around town. Pick up one of the free street publications, Beat or Inpress, or get the ‘EG’ liftout from The Age on Fridays.

Classical music and performing arts The theatres building of the Arts Centre is Melbourne’s premier venue for theatre, opera and ballet, and Hamer Hall, next door, is the venue for classical music concerts. The new Melbourne Recital Centre is a world-class chambermusic venue. Popular musicals and theatrical productions are held at the Regent, Her Majesty’s, the Princess and the Athenaeum theatres. The Malthouse Theatre company and the Melbourne Theatre Company (MTC) host plays, and La Mama in Carlton is the venue for more experimental works. Check out the arts section of The Age for details. Most performances are booked through Ticketmaster and Ticketek.

Sport

Melbourne is possibly Australia’s most sporting city, with hardly a gap in the calendar for the true sports enthusiast. AFL (Australian Football League) is indisputably at the top of the list. The season begins at the end of March and, as it nears the finals in September, footy madness eclipses the city. Victoria has ten teams in the league, and the blockbuster matches are played at the MCG and Etihad Stadium.

After the football comes the Spring Racing Carnival, as much a social event as a horseracing one. October and November are packed with events at racetracks across the state, with the city events held at Caulfield, Moonee Valley, Sandown and Flemington racetracks. The Melbourne Cup, ‘the race that stops the nation’, is held at Flemington on the first Tuesday in November, and is a local public holiday.

Cricket takes Melbourne through the heat of summer. One Day International and Test matches are usually played at the MCG, and the popular Boxing Day Test gives Christmas in Melbourne a sporting twist.

In January Melbourne hosts the Australian Open, one of the world’s four major tennis Grand Slams. The venue is Melbourne Park, home to the Rod Laver Arena and the Hisense Arena, both of which host other sporting events and concerts throughout the year.

Come March and the Australian Formula One Grand Prix comes to town, attracting a large international crowd. The cars race around Albert Park Lake, which for the rest of the year is the setting for rather more low-key sporting pursuits such as jogging and rollerblading.

Where to eat

Babka Bakery/Cafe Bakery and cafe serving freshly baked loaves, pies and cakes. The short, regularly changing menu features Eastern European dishes such as borscht, potato dumplings and sweet blintzes. 358 Brunswick St, Fitzroy; (03) 9416 0091; open Tues–Sun for breakfast and lunch. E2

Chocolate Buddha Quick and delicious modern Japanese served at long communal tables overlooking Federation Square’s piazza. Federation Square, cnr Flinders and Swanston sts; (03) 9654 5688; open daily for lunch and dinner. C4

Degraves Espresso Excellent coffee, breakfasts and lunches served amidst stylishly ‘distressed’ decor or outside at a laneway table. 23–25 Degraves St, (03) 9654 3655; open daily for breakfast and lunch and Mon–Fri for dinner. C4

Flower Drum Melbourne’s iconic Cantonese restaurant, with dishes such as crayfish with ginger and their famous Peking duck. 17 Market La; (03) 9662 3655; open daily for lunch and dinner. D3

Il Fornaio Smart Italian bakery serving breakfast pastries and rustic breads, coffee and light lunch or brunch dishes. 2 Acland St, St Kilda; 9534 2922; open daily for breakfast and lunch. D6

Journal Canteen Bright and cheery with a daily changing menu of simple, rustic and unfailingly delicious Sicilian-inspired food. Level 1, 253 Flinders La; (03) 9650 4399; open weekdays for lunch and Mon–Sat for dinner. C4

MoVida Bar de Tapas y Vino Always-packed Spanish restaurant with a big-flavoured selection of tapas dishes. The sweet end of the meal is also well worth considering as the churros (Spanish doughnuts) here are among the best in town. 1 Hosier La; (03) 9663 3038; open daily for lunch and dinner. C4

Pellegrini’s Espresso Bar The city’s original Italian eatery, where the pasta arrives only minutes after ordering and the ice-cold \ are always good. 66 Bourke St; (03) 9662 1885; open daily for lunch and dinner. D3

The Press Club Exciting, modern take on Greek food that includes spit-roasted lamb and cumin-roasted beetroot salad; Greek wine is a highlight of the lengthy list. 72 Flinders St; (03) 9677 9677; open daily for lunch and dinner. D4

Vue de Monde Watch super-chef Shannon Bennett prepare some of the best food in Australia in this sky-high dining room. Level 55, Rialto South Tower, 525 Collins St; (03) 9691 3888; open Tues–Fri for lunch and Mon–Sat for dinner. B4

Where to stay

Adrienne’s Place on the Hill 67 Craig Hill Dr, Wheelers Hill; (03) 9561 3324.

Ashley Gardens BIG4 Holiday Village – Aspen Parks 129 Ashley St, Braybrook; (03) 9318 6866.

Captains Retreat B&B 2 Ferguson St, Williamstown; (03) 9397 0352.

Carlisle Bed & Breakfast 400 Glenferrie Rd, Kooyong; (03) 9822 4847.

Carter Cottages Bed & Breakfast Inn 1 College Rd, Werribee; 0424 867 259.

Chestnut Cottage 15 Chestnut St, Surrey Hills; (03) 9808 6644.

Crystal Brook Tourist Park 182 Warrandyte Rd, Doncaster East; (03) 9844 3637.

Glenmore Homestyle Accommodation 46 Husband Rd, Forest Hill; (03) 9893 3333.

Hazelwood House 44 Holland Rd, Ringwood East; (03) 9870 9817.

Jackson’s on Middle Park 404 Richardson St, Middle Park; (03) 9534 7615.

Ningana B & B 7 O’Grady St, Burwood East; (03) 9802 6902.

North Haven By The Sea B & B Merrett Dr, Williamstown; (03) 9399 8399.

Prahran Village Guest House 39 Perth St, Prahran; (03) 9533 6559.

Robinsons in the City Cnr Batman and Spencer sts, West Melbourne; (03) 9329 2552.

Staughton Bed & Breakfast Cnr Staughton Rd and Downing Ave, Glen Iris; (03) 9889 4372.

Sundowner Caravan & Cabin Park 870 Princes Hwy, Springvale; (03) 9546 9587.

Treetops Bed & Breakfast 16 Linum St, Blackburn; (03) 9877 2737.

Wantirna Park 203 Mountain Hwy, Wantirna; (03) 9887 1157.

Warrandyte Goldfields Bed & Breakfast Cnr Yarra and Whipstick Gully rds, Warrandyte; (03) 9844 0666.

Werribee South Caravan Park 39 Beach Rd, Werribee South; (03) 9742 1755.

Other suburbs

Balaclava Kosher butchers mixed with an emerging cafe culture. F6

Black Rock One of many bayside suburbs shifting from a sleepy village into sought-after real estate, fronting two of Melbourne’s best beaches. J7

Brunswick Sydney Road is the place to come to for bargain fabrics, authentic Turkish bread and a healthy dose of Middle Eastern culture. D1

Camberwell and Canterbury Melbourne’s eastern money belt, with fashion outlets lining Camberwell’s Burke Road, and the elegant Maling Road shopping precinct in Canterbury. E6

Dandenong One of Melbourne’s most diverse communities – with food stores galore and a vibrant market. K7

Eltham All native trees and mud-brick architecture, this suburb feels like a piece of the country only 30 min from the city. F5

Footscray A mini-Saigon that is the lesser-known version of Victoria Street, Abbotsford, now with a growing African flavour. Jam-packed with cheap eateries and one of Melbourne’s best produce markets. A2

Hawthorn With a strong student culture from the nearby university, and a strip of shops on Glenferrie Road offering everything from Asian groceries to smart fashion. E6

Yarraville A gem tucked away in a largely industrial sweep of suburbs, with cafes and a superb Art Deco cinema. A3

Day tours

Bellarine Peninsula The Bellarine Peninsula separates the waters of Port Phillip from the famously rugged coastline of Victoria’s southwest. Beyond the historic buildings, streets and Geelong’s waterfront are quaint coastal villages, excellent beaches, golf courses and wineries.

The Dandenongs These scenic hills at the edge of Melbourne’s eastern suburbs are a popular daytrip. Native rainforests of mountain ash and giant ferns, cool-climate gardens, the popular steam train Puffing Billy, which runs through Emerald, and galleries, craft shops and cafes, many serving Devonshire tea, are among the many attractions.

Mornington Peninsula This holiday centre, including Portsea and Sorrento, features fine-food producers, around 40 cool-climate vineyards, historic holiday villages, quiet coastal national parks, 18 golf courses and many attractions for children.

Mount Macedon and Hanging Rock Country mansions and superb 19th- and 20th-century European-style gardens sit comfortably in the native bushland. Here you’ll find wineries, cafes, nurseries, galleries and the mysteriously beautiful Hanging Rock near Woodend.

Phillip Island The nightly Penguin Parade on Phillip Island is one of Victoria’s signature attractions. For the avid wildlife-watcher, seals and koalas are the other stars of the show, though the island also boasts magnificent coastal scenery from Cowes and great surf breaks.

Sovereign Hill Ballarat’s award-winning re-creation of a 19th-century goldmining village conjures up the detail and drama of life during one of the nation’s most exciting periods of history. You can even stay the night at a new accommodation complex within the village, with full period costume thrown in!

Spa country For a few hours of health-giving indulgence, visit the historic spa complex at Hepburn Springs. Explore Daylesford, enjoy a meal at one of the region’s excellent eateries, or take a peaceful forest drive.

Yarra Valley and Healesville High-quality pinot noir and sparkling wines are produced across one of Australia’s best-known wine areas. Pick up a brochure from the visitor centre in Healesville and map out your wine-tasting tour. Worthy of its own daytrip is Healesville Sanctuary, featuring around 200 species of native animals in a bushland setting.