Chapter 9: A Nature Guide to Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks

Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon are parks in transition. They have long been geologic wonderlands, rarities that recently ran headlong into myriad social concerns. Now the National Park Service, environmental groups, and various watchdogs are all taking a serious look at the parks’ futures.

The Landscape

Towering sheets of granite. Lush forests that give way to emerald meadows blanketed in wildflowers. Views that stretch farther than some countries and make visitors feel like they are standing on the edge of the world. The varied landscapes of these parks are memorable, to say the least. Yosemite has an almost bizarre conglomeration of sheer granite monoliths and wide-open spaces. Sequoia & Kings Canyon have trees that are as wide at the base as some homes, along with wildflowers in almost every patch of sun. All these wonders occur because of the area’s astounding geological nature.

About 300 million years ago, layers of sediment that had been building up on the ocean floor were forced under the emerging North American continent. The process created such intense heat that the sediment became molten magma, some of which erupted via volcanoes. Where it chilled and hardened before reaching the surface, the magma created huge slabs of granite.

This process continued intermittently for about 150 million years, forming a large mountain range roughly parallel to the West Coast—the Sierra Nevada. For the next 55 million years, wind and water ate away at the volcanoes and sedimentary rock, sweeping it into California’s Central Valley and leaving mountains of exposed granite.

Scientists theorize earthquakes along the present-day San Andreas Fault began forcing the eastern edge of a landmass beneath the Sierra upward 25 million years ago, eventually tipping west, raising tall mountain peaks. In Yosemite, the upheaval raised the park’s eastern range to 11,000 feet, while in Sequoia & Kings Canyon, it created the ominously barren and beautiful Kaweah Ridge, also known as the Great Western Divide, which ranges from about 11,000 to 14,000 feet in elevation.

As rivers raged through the valleys, they carved deeper and deeper into the earth, eroding the bedrock. Great canyons were formed, and when the earth’s temperature cooled about 3 million years ago, glaciers covered the Sierra Nevada. These fields of ice tore at the granite, expanding and contracting with such force that they carved deep valleys, slicing granite walls vertically into the steep U-shapes of Yosemite Valley and Kings Canyon.

When the glaciers melted, they left behind steep mountains smoothed by ice, along with piles of debris that dammed the flow of rivers, creating lakes in the valleys. The rest of the landscaping took place in an evolutionary blink of an eye. Over the course of 10,000 years, sediment, swept down from above, filled these lakes. Meadows were formed, and then came wildflowers, followed by trees, and eventually people.

You can still see glaciers in Yosemite, near Tuolumne Meadows. Also check out the glaciers on Yosemite’s Mount Lyell, Mount Dana, and Mount Maclure. The glaciers here were probably formed about 2,500 years ago but are quickly receding today.

Glaciers are responsible for the variety of rock formations in the parks. There are spires, domes, sheets, and arches. Yosemite has cornered the market for number and diversity, offering one or more of each within the span of an easy 3-mile walk. Most of the unusual rock landmarks here were created by fractures within the rock. These fractures occur vertically, horizontally, and at an incline. Called joints, they represent the weakest point of a rock and a point that has already been broken. The type of joint most common in Yosemite, and also evident in Sequoia & Kings Canyon, is sheeting. Concentric joints—fractures that seem to occur along curved lines—form after years of increasing and decreasing pressure from overlaying rock. When pressure decreases, the granite expands upward and breaks or fractures off in sheets, similar to peeling an onion very slowly.

Erratic boulders are another common sight. These large rocks were originally located elsewhere but were transported and plopped down haphazardly—again, probably by glaciers.

Ridges of rocky deposits are called moraines, left behind as glaciers recede. The best place to see moraines is in Yosemite, en route from Tuolumne Meadows to Tioga Pass.

The most famous rocks in Yosemite are Half Dome and El Capitan. Although Half Dome was probably never a full dome like North Dome, which it faces, geologists believe that about 20% of the original rock was sheared off by glaciers. The face looks smooth and slippery but is actually filled with ledges and ridges, making it a rock climber’s paradise. Similar ridges exist on the dome side, enabling hikers to climb to the top. Although it looks small, the top measures 13 acres. Half Dome is 8,842 feet above sea level and towers roughly 4,800 feet above the valley floor, the highest point in Yosemite Valley.

El Capitan is on the left, or north, side of the valley as you enter. It rises 3,593 feet above the valley floor and 7,569 feet above sea level. Toward the top of El Cap, the slope of the rock actually increases and hangs over the valley floor. Called the nose, it’s a particular challenge for rock climbers. Look for climbers on the face, as well as off to the sides of El Cap; it’s where many experts ascend and beginners learn the ropes. It takes around 4 to 7 days to climb El Capitan. The first climber reached the summit in 1958, after 47 days. The rock is also home to a pair of peregrine falcons that nest here in spring and summer.

To the east of El Cap are the Three Brothers—three outcroppings of rock called Lower Brother, Middle Brother, and Eagle Peak. The rocks appear to be riding piggyback and were formed by parallel fractures on an incline.

The Cathedral Spires are directly opposite El Cap, on the other side of the valley. They will appear before you if you turn your back to El Cap and look carefully—the rock is almost camouflaged by the valley wall beyond. Somehow these, and other spires in the park, have withstood nature’s evolutionary barrage.

Another spire, this one known as Lost Arrow, is east of Yosemite Falls, below Yosemite Point. Look for the waterfalls to the north of Yosemite Lodge. The outcropping of rock to the east is Yosemite Point. Lost Arrow is an independent spire in the same area.

Continue moving east to see the Royal Arches, a series of 1,500-foot half-circles carved out of the rock, to the north of the Ahwahnee hotel. The Arches provide an inside view of the exfoliation process that formed many of Yosemite’s domes. Here, the material that was once above the arches eroded away, taking pressure off the rock below, which expanded and cracked parallel to the surface. During particularly wet springs, water cascades over the arches in great sheets.

Above the arches is North Dome, the smooth, slightly lopsided dome mentioned earlier. It rises 3,562 feet above the valley floor. Nearby is Washington Column, a spire with a tip 1,920 feet above the valley floor. Ahwahnee Indian legend has it that a man and woman who lived in the valley long ago fought so often that it upset the spirits. The unhappy couple was turned to stone and separated by Tenaya Creek. He is North Dome, with Washington Column as his walking stick. She is Half Dome, and if you look at it closely, a woman’s profile faces northeast. Legend also has it that the streak of lighter rock between her cheek and nose was caused by a stream of tears.

Domes and impressive geologic formations appear outside the valley as well. Most are in Yosemite’s high country, en route to Tuolumne Meadows, and foremost is Olmsted Point, an overlook that gives visitors a chance to see the granite Tenaya Canyon. Cloud’s Rest and the rear of Half Dome are two distinct shapes easily recognizable from Olmsted Point, which is 9 miles west of Tuolumne Meadows.

Tuolumne Meadows itself is ringed with domes and peaks, many of which are an easier climb than the ones rising above the valley.

In Sequoia National Park, Moro Rock is a dome towering 6,725 feet above sea level. Moro Rock’s summit offers breathtaking views of the Kaweah Ridge, with some peaks rising to 14,000 feet.

Kings Canyon National Park boasts North Dome, above Cedar Grove. Some people with a vivid imagination say it resembles Half Dome. North Dome is not accessible by car or on foot.

Waterfalls hang over the Yosemite Valley like a sparkling diamond necklace. The valley boasts three of the world’s tallest waterfalls. Upon entering the valley, you’ll spot the 620-foot Bridalveil Fall first. It looks large, but that’s because you haven’t seen the rest of the cast.

The real biggie is Yosemite Falls, close to Yosemite Lodge. The fall appears to be one drop but is, in fact, a set of waterfalls that measures a combined 2,425 feet. Lower Yosemite Fall drops 320 feet, Upper Yosemite Fall descends 1,430 feet, and a cascade in the middle makes up the difference.

To the west of El Capitan you’ll find Ribbon Fall, which drops an uninterrupted 1,612 feet to the valley floor but is often dry in summer.

The longest single fall in Yosemite is Sentinel Fall. It drops 2,000 feet from the west side of Sentinel Rock, directly across the valley floor from Yosemite Falls. To view this waterfall, walk back toward El Cap and make an about-face—it’s one of the geology-obscured views in the park.

Up the valley are a series of dramatic staircase falls accessible only on foot. Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall occur just a half-mile apart along the same river.

Waterfalls in Sequoia & Kings Canyon are less numerous but still impressive. Mist Falls, in Kings Canyon, is beautiful but requires a 4-mile hike. This wide waterfall near Cedar Grove is up a rushing creek, which includes several large cascades.

Below is Roaring River Fall, a length of waterfall also accessible only on foot; it flows from Cloud and Deadman canyons. Garlic Fall, in the Monarch Wilderness area just outside Kings Canyon, can be viewed from the Yucca Point overlook on CA 180.

Note: Most waterfalls are fed by snowmelt and rely on winter runoff to survive. In late summer, many of them (including Yosemite Falls) dry up.

The Life & Times of John Muir

Over the course of his illustrious 75 years, John Muir earned a nickname: “Father of Our National Parks.” In the late 19th century, he pushed for conservation of the pristine wilderness and helped establish Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon as national parks.

Born in Scotland in 1838, Muir emigrated with his family to Wisconsin at the age of 11. After an accident nearly blinded him about a decade later, he dropped everything to pursue his fascination with the natural world and decided to go to the Amazon—on foot. He didn’t make it, but traveling became a way of life for Muir, and his journeys eventually took him west. He discovered the Sierra Nevada area in 1868 and worked as a shepherd in the Yosemite area. He later ran a sawmill nearby.

Muir began writing about the Sierra Nevada the moment he arrived, and his passionate words started finding an audience in the late 1800s. He wrote a number of books, contributed to numerous periodicals, and became a leading voice in the budding environmentalist movement. In 1892, Muir helped found the Sierra Club. In 1903, he took Teddy Roosevelt camping in the Yosemite backcountry and catalyzed Roosevelt’s vision of an entire system of national parks.

Muir is a legend not only for his words and his deeds, but also because he was something of an eccentric. He never shaved, making way for an impressive beard. He experienced nature to its fullest—he climbed a tree during an incredible storm, sledded down Yosemite Valley’s steep walls on his rump to avoid an avalanche, and chased a bear so he could study the animal’s stride. (Not surprisingly, these actions have since been banned by the National Park Service.)

From the first moment a politician pondered Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, Muir fought it. Damming and drowning a place whose beauty rivaled that of Yosemite Valley was sacrilege to him. But San Francisco needed water to drink, and Congress passed legislation approving Hetch Hetchy Reservoir in 1913. John Muir died the very next year—some say of a broken heart.

The Flora

There are more than 1,500 types of plants in Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon, and describing them all would fill this book. With species ranging from tiny lichen to giant sequoias, the flora in all of the parks is similar, varying primarily by elevation.

Trees

The trees native to the region consist mostly of conifers and broadleaf trees. Conifers have needles and cones, do not shed during cooler months, and maintain their green year-round, earning the name evergreen. Broadleaf trees drop their leaves in fall and bloom anew in spring.

At lower elevations, the two most common pines you’ll find are the ponderosa pine and Jeffrey pine (both also known as “yellow pines”). The ponderosa pine has yellow-orange bark, needles grouped in threes, and bark scales that fit together like a jigsaw puzzle. The trunk of a ponderosa pine can grow up to 6 feet in diameter. The Jeffrey pine is similar to the ponderosa but tends to live at higher elevations.

Ponderosa Pine

Jeffrey Pine

The sugar pine grows at slightly higher elevations and can be seen along many hikes. These pines produce large pine cones, have short needles grouped in fives, and have a reddish-brown bark. Trunks can grow to almost 7 feet in diameter, and mature trees sport very crooked branches.

Sugar Pine

Pines found at higher elevations include the lodgepole and whitebark. The lodgepole pine, the most widely distributed pine in North America, groups its needles in twos; it has yellow-orange bark and small cones. The whitebark pine bunches five needles together and has sticky purple-tinted cones. These pines tend to be smaller and are found closer to the tree line.

Lodgepole Pine

Firs are another species of conifer found in the parks. Red firs, with short needles that curl up and cones ranging from 5 to 8 inches, are found at elevations of 6,000 to 9,000 feet. White firs, found at lower elevations from about 3,500 to 8,000 feet, have 2-inch needles that grow in twists off the branch, grayish bark, and 3- to 5-inch cones. Wildlife often take refuge in the large cavities near the base of old trunks. Both firs grow in forests near Yosemite’s Glacier Point and in the high country along Tioga Road. White firs can be seen throughout Sequoia & Kings Canyon.

Red Fir

At the highest elevations (9,000–14,000 ft.), look for foxtail pines, gnarled trees that have adapted to the harsh rocky life of living at the top. This pine, like the whitebark pine, looks stunted and warped, often with a twisted trunk and spiky, dead-looking top. The roots grow over granite and require only a short growing season, allowing the tree to cling to a frigid existence.

Foxtail Pine

The uncommon California nutmeg resembles a fir, with sharp single needles, and can be found along the Marble Fork Trail in Sequoia National Park as you near a creek flowing over marble slabs. Incense cedar is often confused with the giant sequoias, as both have reddish shaggy bark that almost crumbles to the touch. But an incense cedar has flat sprays of foliage that emit a fragrant smell in warm weather and small reddish-brown cones resembling a duck’s bill when opened.

Incense Cedar

The undisputed heavyweight of the national parks’ flora is the giant sequoia. Smaller ones can be hard to identify, but there is no mistaking a mature 250-foot tree dating back 2,000 to 3,000 years. These trees grow to a height of 311 feet, weigh 2.7 million pounds, and can have a base 40 feet in diameter. Tree limbs can reach 8 feet in diameter. The trees are bare until about 100 to 150 feet up and then sprout branches. The bark, naturally fire resistant, ranges from 4 to 24 inches thick. These trees resist decay and produce abundant small cones with hundreds of seeds the size of oatmeal flakes. Interestingly, it takes a fire to dry the cones out enough to release the seeds.

Giant Sequoia

Giant sequoias can be found at elevations ranging from 5,000 to 7,500 feet, and occasionally as low as 3,500 feet. Obviously, the best place to see these trees is throughout Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks. The large stands of Giant Forest and Grant Grove offer fantastic, easily accessible examples of giant sequoias, and there are other groves, accessible by foot, scattered throughout the park. Yosemite has three stands of giant sequoias—the Mariposa Grove near Wawona, and the smaller Tuolumne and Merced groves near the Big Oak Flat Entrance.

Broadleaf trees in the area include the California black oak, which grows at lower elevations in both parks. The dark gray to black bark of these trees is distinctive. They also produce acorns and can grow to a height of 75 feet. The blue oak loses its leaves in fall and can be found in foothills of elevation 1,000 to 5,000 feet. Hollylike evergreen leaves mark the canyon live oak, the other common oak tree in the region.

The Pacific dogwood produces blooms with whitish-green flowers each spring. The quaking aspen has paper-thin white bark and an army of small leaves that rustle in the slightest wind. Along streams and rivers at lower elevations, look for cottonwoods, willows, and alders.

Flowering Plants

Wildflowers produce an array of colors during spring and summer, as they peek from cracks and crevices or carpet fields and meadows. The blooming season begins in February in the lowlands, lasting into early fall in the high country. The list of wildflowers found in these parks is intimidating and includes more than 50 species, some of which are described below.

Splashed on meadows and along hillsides is a lavender flower, lupine. It’s easily recognized by its palmate leaves—leaves that originate from a central point like fingers from a hand. Look for the bloom along valley floors and in the Wawona region of Yosemite. You will also see cow parsnip here, bluish-tinged flowers set on spindly stems, with almost fernlike leaves. The cow parsnip’s dartlike flowers resemble violets at a distance, but closer inspection reveals an umbrella-shaped top and leafless stalk. Large blue-to-purple blooms that shoot out amid tall, narrow leaves are wild irises. In the Wawona region of Yosemite, look for mountain misery, clumps of small, white flowers atop fluffy, pine-needle-looking leaves; and farewell-to-spring, a whimsical pinkish flower with four large, fragile petals and small, slender leaves.

Lupine

Cow Parsnip

You may also see monkey flower, showy milkweed, and yarrow at these elevations. The monkey flower is one of nature’s brightest flowers, ranging from blue to purple, pink, and orange, and seen along streams and at high altitudes in gravelly soil. Petals consist of two-lipped blossoms that more imaginative folk say resemble the smiling face of a monkey. The showy milkweed grows in meadows and forest clearings. These sturdy plants have large oval-shaped leaves and stalks filled with a poisonous milky sap. In summer, colorful bunches of tiny five-petal flowers appear; later the milkweed pods burst, releasing a tuft of silky seeds to scatter in the wind. Growing up to 3 feet tall, yarrow blooms as a flat, wide cluster of white (occasionally pink) flowers with a pungent aroma. It was used by Native Americans as a healing herb, a drink to cure indigestion and to reduce fever. Today the dried flower is commonly seen in potpourri.

Monkey Flower

Yarrow

At night, look for evening primrose—its four-petal flowers open at sunset and wilt in the morning, and are pollinated by moths. Blossoms range from white to yellow and pink and have a sweet lemon smell; stems can reach 6 feet.

Evening Primrose

One of the last flowers of the season is meadow goldenrod, which appears in late summer and fall. The plant grows in long stalks, with narrow leaves protruding all along it, and may be topped by a shock of yellow that resembles a feather. Goldenrod was used by American Indians to cure all sorts of ailments.

Meadow Goldenrod

In forests, you’ll find pussy paws and snow plant in the shade, and lupine, mariposa lily, and mountain violet in the sun. The snow plant has a flaming red or orange stalk, while pussy paws have small, fuzzy leaves and delicate flowers that group together to resemble the shape of a cat’s paw. The mariposa lily, which blooms beneath pines in Yosemite, is named for the Spanish word for butterfly, which it is said to resemble. Blooms consist of three snow-white petals with dark spots at their base; the long stems give the flowers a floating appearance. American Indians roasted the bulbs of these blooms to eat.

Mariposa Lily

At higher and cooler elevations, a number of slender blooms abound. The mountain sorrel has leaves shaped like lilies, with clusters of small pink flowers no bigger than the tip of a fingernail. The spreading phlox has pointed leaves that stick out like thorns and broad, flat flowers on top. The meadow penstemon produces a group of bright pink flowers atop a single, slender stalk. The blooms are arranged like trumpets, pointing in every direction.

Meadow Penstemon

A favorite flower of hummingbirds, columbine grows in meadows and springs from rocky crevices. It looks quite fragile, with bushy leaves clumped at the base of bare stalks that produce droopy blooms. The color can vary, but look for five petals that extend backward in a long, pointed tube.

Columbine

Shrubs & Plants

One of the many plants found in the parks is the wild azalea. These plants resemble their household cousins and are often the first to proclaim the arrival of spring, with an abundance of vibrant color. The Sierra sports just one variety: the western azalea, a low-lying shrub with smooth, deep-green leaves.

Western Azalea

Bear clover is a low-growing shrub with sticky leaves and a pungent smell, found in the Lodgepole area of Sequoia and at elevations around 7,000 to 8,000 feet.

The mariposa manzanita, with its smooth red-to-purple bark and oval, coin-size leaves, blooms year-round and is but one type of manzanita common in this region. The mariposa manzanita produces small white and pink clusters of flowers that eventually turn into berries that look like little apples, which is what manzanita means in Spanish. This shrub is plentiful in the foothills of Sequoia National Park.

Mariposa Manzanita

Now look up into oak trees and search for a clump of green bush that looks as if it were growing out of branches. This is mistletoe. Despite its holiday charm, it is a parasite more than a shrub, growing in green bunches high up in the treetops and sucking nourishment from oaks and other trees. Another pest is poison oak, prevalent below 5,000 feet. Watch for a shrub with shiny three-leaf clusters and white berries. In winter, poison-oak stems are bare and very difficult to recognize, so steer clear of any thickets that resemble sticks stuck in the ground.

Poison Oak

The Fauna

Think of the parks as nature’s zoo. There are no cages, no man-made habitats—just wide-open spaces with enough room for more than 200 species of mammals and birds, some of which are described below.

Birds

The Sierra Nevada is a bird-watcher’s paradise. Each year, 135 species visit Yosemite Valley alone. The most treasured of the area’s feathered friends include the great horned owl, the peregrine falcon, and the California condor, all of which send bird-watchers into ornithological ecstasy.

You’re more likely to hear the great horned owl than see one. Its hoots sound like sonar, but since it is nocturnal, it’s difficult to spot. If you happen to hear it, try to locate its branch first, and then the bird: It has large tufts of feathers near both ears. But don’t get disheartened if you search in vain—these birds are great ventriloquists. You’ll have more luck observing a pair of nesting peregrine falcons on El Capitan or Glacier Point, although you’ll need binoculars. For several years now, a number of pairs have made this their own personal day-care center, hatching and raising their young on narrow ledges before beginning flight instruction. One of four falcon species in the park, the peregrine falcon is marked by a hood of dark feathers from head to back, contrasting against lighter ones underneath. This bird is a wizard in flight, reaching speeds of up to 200 mph mid-dive. It was recently removed from the endangered species list.

Great Horned Owl

Peregrine Falcon

Still endangered is the California condor, the largest land bird in North America, with a 9-foot wingspan. The birds are able to glide 10 miles at a time without flapping their wings. Keen eyesight allows them to spot a dead animal carcass from miles away. Their numbers dropped below 40 in 1975, due to pesticide use and the loss of habitat to building. A pair of condors can raise only one young every 2 years. In the 1980s, the remaining birds were captured and placed in zoos, where the young were hand-reared. Then some of the adolescent birds were released into the wild and have been seen occasionally in Kings Canyon. Today about 200 California condors exist in the wild.

California Condor

In both Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon, the birds you’re most likely to see are the American robin, Steller’s jay, acorn woodpecker, northern flicker, band-tailed pigeon, two varieties of blackbird, sparrow, swift, American dipper, belted kingfisher, duck, warbler, brown creeper, mountain chickadee, and red-breasted and white-breasted nuthatches. Yosemite Valley is a great place to see many of these species because its environment includes streambeds, rivers, forest, and meadowlands, often within the space of a city block. A stroll anywhere along the Merced River should take you within visual distance of all of these birds, whose habitats include the water, meadows, and adjacent forests.

American Robin

Steller’s Jay

A reddish-orange breast easily distinguishes the American robin. These are the same birds you can see back home throughout much of North America, in suburbs and backyards, building cup-shaped nests on windowsills or the ledges of buildings. Before the bird adapted to urban living, it preferred a woodland habitat. It has long been considered a harbinger of spring, but in reality some of these birds stay put year-round. The Steller’s jay is one of nature’s more annoying birds. Unfazed by humans, it is a bold beggar, landing on picnic tables and elsewhere near food, while letting loose a screech that could wake the dead. The Steller’s jay is bright blue, with a dark head and prominent crest. This bird is also capable of a beautiful soft warble.

Like the Steller’s jay, you’re likely to hear the woodpecker before you see it—listen for its methodical rata-tat-tat. Woodpeckers can also emit a startling call that sounds like “wack-up.” Woodpeckers are distinguished by black-and-white markings and a red crown, with an occasional bit of yellow. The northern flicker is also a woodpecker—look for a brown-feathered bird clinging to the side of a tree. Its wings have a reddish tinge and it sports a red mustache. This bird prefers to feed on the ground, where it searches for ants. Band-tailed pigeons are similar to their city-dwelling cousins but prefer tall forest trees to buildings.

Northern Flicker

Band-Tailed Pigeon

Black-Headed Grosbeak

In meadowlands, you will likely see sparrows, the black-headed grosbeak, the uncommon western tanager—a bird with fluorescent feathers—and two varieties of blackbird. The Brewer’s blackbird and the red-winged blackbird both make their home here. Brewer’s blackbirds nest in trees, while their red-winged relatives prefer slightly marshy areas. Red-winged males have distinctive red patches on their wings. The Brewer’s blackbird is, well, black, and females of either variety are drab in comparison to the males. Sparrows are small singing birds, streaked by brown feathers and with cone-shaped beaks. Their babies leave the nest 10 days after birth. The black-headed grosbeak has black, white, and orange markings, and a distinctive beak used for cracking seeds. Its soft, lyrical warble is music compared to those of other valley dwellers, and this bird is considered a sure sign of spring. The easy-to-spot western tanager is bright yellow with a reddish-orange head and is frequently observed in Yosemite Valley during spring and summer.

Western Tanager

If you’re near moving water, you might search for American dippers, belted kingfishers, ducks, and warblers. The American dipper is notable more for its flying acrobatics than for its nondescript color. The bird flies headfirst into the river to walk upstream along the bottom, clinging to rocks in its search for food. The belted kingfisher is a highly visible blue bird that flies low over water in search of prey. You may see it perched above the water, clinging to branches and underbrush, and keeping a watchful eye out for insects and fish. It has a reddish band on its chest and a noticeable crest up top. The call of the kingfisher is distinctive: loud, rattling, and clicking. Warblers are often called the butterflies of the bird world. They are small, brightly colored, and move with gravity-defying ease. Contrary to their name, warblers are undistinguished singers, but they’re great at collecting insects.

American Dipper

Belted Kingfisher

In the forests live brown creepers, mountain chickadees, and red- and white-breasted nuthatches. The brown creeper is difficult to spot because of the camouflage feathers that disguise it among tree trunks. Small, with a slender, curved beak, the creeper usually begins foraging for insects at the base of a tree and works its way up, clinging to the bark with razor-sharp claws. The mountain chickadee is another songbird with a delightful melody that sounds like “chickadee-dee-dee.” These tiny, friendly, hyperactive birds have dark caps and bibs, a gray or brown back, and a distinctive white eyebrow. They nest in woodpecker holes or other small tree holes. Nuthatches are the birds you’ll see walking headfirst down a tree trunk—no simple feat. Also called upside-down birds, the red-breasted and white-breasted versions are aptly described by their names. They are partial to abandoned woodpecker holes.

Brown Creeper

Mountain Chickadee

Nuthatch

And let’s not forget the swift, almost always found in flight above Yosemite Valley. These birds spend more time air-bound than any other land bird. When they do stop, they cling to vertical surfaces because their tiny feet are unsuitable for perches. Look up to see swifts flying between Yosemite’s great granite walls. Both sexes look alike, and colors run from drab grays and browns to black and white.

In the Wawona region south of Yosemite Valley, you’ll find the bushtit and wrentit, scrub jay, California thrasher, yellow warbler, lesser goldfinch, barn swallow, and ash-throated and rare willow flycatchers. The yellow warbler is the more colorful version of the warbler described above. Swallows are streamlined-looking birds with long, pointed wings. Swift in flight, they eat and drink on the fly. All are migratory, and some travel thousands of miles to the Tropics each winter. Flycatchers are better known for their insect-hunting abilities than for distinctive markings. The willow flycatcher is a threatened species and has gray, brown, and olive plumage. All flycatchers are very territorial. Goldfinches, sometimes referred to as wild canaries, are gregarious birds, with bright colors and cheerful songs.

Yellow Warbler

Willow Flycatcher

Bushtits spend most of the year in flocks of about 20, constantly twittering at each other with a soft, lisping call. These acrobatic fliers are small, grayish birds with tiny bills. Wrentits are secretive birds—hard to see but easy to hear. They seldom venture far from home and prefer to live in chaparral or scrub thickets. Once mated, they form devoted pairs, constantly pruning and preening each other. When seen close together, they resemble a single ball of gray fluff. The California thrasher is one of several thrasher species, all of which have long tails and nest in low thickets. They forage on the ground and are accomplished singers, though not as notable as their distant cousins, the mockingbird and catbird.

Bushtit

Wrentit

The high country of Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon attracts dozens more birds, drawn by altitude and mountain meadows, including the dark-eyed junco, kestrel, red-tailed hawk, killdeer, Williamson’s sapsucker, Clark’s nutcracker, and ptarmigan.

Juncos, often referred to as snowbirds, are common visitors to bird feeders. Small and friendly, these birds resemble the sparrow, which also frequents this region. But the dark-eyed junco has a pink bill, white-to-bluish underbelly, and dark feathers from the crown down its back, and can usually be seen hopping along the ground in search of food. The kestrel is the smallest species of falcon. Like the falcon, it kills prey with a sharp bite to the neck, as opposed to hawks, which kill with their sharp claws. The red-tailed hawk, equipped with broad, rounded wings and a fan-shaped tail, soars effortlessly, using its keen eyesight to scan the area below for prey. The killdeer—named for its shrill call, is a performer, often feigning a broken wing to ward intruders off when they venture too near its nest. And no wonder—nests are little more than a shallow depression in the ground lined with pebbles. Adult killdeer have two black bands across their throats, while chicks have one.

Junco

Killdeer

Sapsuckers are specialized woodpeckers that extract the sap from trees with their brush-tipped tongues after drilling holes with their beaks. They also eat insects attracted to the sap. The Williamson’s sapsucker strongly resembles the northern flicker described above, minus the red mustache. Nutcrackers are bold cousins of the crow family. Clark’s nutcrackers specialize in prying seeds from pine cones and make forests their stamping grounds. In late summer and fall, the birds begin hoarding seeds for winter, tucking them in a pouch under their tongue during transport to slopes, where they poke holes in the ground and bury their treasure. A single nutcracker can hide 30,000 seeds. More remarkable is the fact that they remember where the stock is buried by the position of nearby landmarks, even when the ground is covered with snow. Clark’s nutcracker resembles a crow, with a gray head and body and black wings tipped with white.

Finally, the ptarmigan is a unique bird, well adapted to changing seasons in cold climates. These small, stocky grouse have mottled brown feathers in summer to help camouflage them against the rocky mountaintops where they live, but the feathers turn pure white in winter to match the snow. Like all grouse, ptarmigans have feathered legs, and in winter their feet are also covered with feathers. During the spring mating season, males sport a vibrant red comb and strut in short flights while cackling, all to attract a mate.

Williamson’s Sapsucker

Clark’s Nutcracker

Ptarmigan

In addition to the above birds, Hammond’s flycatcher, Cassin’s finch, common flicker, pine sparrow, chipping sparrow, white-crowned sparrow, and violet-green swallow are all prevalent in the high country.

Mammals

Mammals in these parks are not seen as often as birds, but for some reason they’re a lot more fun to spot. Most common are the mule deer, raccoon, squirrel, chipmunk, fox, coyote, and black bear. At higher elevations, you may also see Belding ground squirrels and Douglas’s squirrels, yellow-bellied marmots, pikas, pine martens, badgers, mountain lions, bobcats, porcupines, long-tailed weasels, striped and spotted skunks, and northern water shrew.

Mule deer are most frequently spotted grazing in meadows at dawn and dusk. Although they seem gentle enough, mule deer should be treated with the same reverence accorded any wild animal: Give them a wide berth and, of course, refrain from feeding them. Many injuries have been recorded against humans who attempt to get close or feed them. The mule deer is named for its large, mulelike ears, and adults can weigh up to 200 pounds, surviving on a mix of grasses, leaves, tender twigs, and herbs. Males grow antlers for use during the mating season. And no, it is not true that the age of a male deer can be gauged by counting the points on its antlers.

Mule Deer

A variety of members of the squirrel family reside in this region, including chipmunks and marmots. The most common is the California gray squirrel, often seen in trees with its gray coat and bushy tail. The California ground squirrel is a brown animal with white speckles that prefers living in burrows. The Sierra chickaree is a reddish-colored tree squirrel that chews on pine cones and frequently makes a squeaking noise. Douglas’s squirrel, common in Sequoia, is an olive-to-rust or gray color, with a reddish underbelly. At higher elevations, the Belding ground squirrel is most easily distinguished when it’s seated—its erect posture resembles a stake driven into the ground. There are at least five different varieties of chipmunks in this region. Smaller than squirrels, they’re quick and love to chatter, especially when scolding those who venture too near. Chipmunks range in color from reddish-brown to brownish-gray, and all varieties have four stripes running the length of their backs.

At higher elevations, you’ll find the yellow-bellied marmot. Resembling woodchucks, they regularly sunbathe and can tease visitors into believing they are tame. They’re not. Adult marmots appear yellowish-brown, weigh up to 5 pounds, reach 15 to 18 inches in length, emit a high-pitched shrill as a warning, and live beneath rock piles or tree roots.

Douglas’s Squirrel

Chipmunk

Yellow-Bellied Marmot

The porcupine is a unique rodent. These short, stock-legged creatures are covered from head to toe with quills that detach at the touch, piercing whoever or whatever touches them. Each animal carries about 30,000 quills that serve as a serious deterrent to all but the stupidest predators. Porcupines sleep during the day and forage at night, curling into a ball when approached by a would-be predator. In spring, females produce one offspring, which is born with soft quills (thankfully) that harden within minutes.

Pikas look like a cross between a rodent and a hare, and actually are distant relatives of the rabbit family. Pikas have oversize ears, although they’re proportionately much smaller than those found on their cousins, and live in colonies above the tree line throughout the West. They scamper over rocks and emit a high-pitched squeal whenever a predator is sighted.

Porcupine

Pika

Raccoons are considered pests in suburbia, but in the wild they are shy nocturnal animals, easily spotted by their ringed tails and the appearance of a black mask across their eyes. Some are no bigger than a large house cat, but males can grow to be 3 feet in length and may weigh more than 40 pounds. These animals are adaptive, eating everything from fish and small rodents to fruit, nuts, and earthworms.

Raccoon

The parks contain a large number of weasel-family members, including badgers, martens, skunks, and what most people know as weasels. The long-tailed weasel can reach 16 inches in length. Usually brown with a white underbelly, in winter it can turn all white, while retaining a black tip to its tail. The badger and marten are distant cousins of the weasel. Badgers can reach up to 2 feet in length and weigh up to 25 pounds. This heavy, short-legged animal has black feet, black-and-white face markings, and coarse yellowish-gray fur. The pine marten is a fast, agile climber preferring high mountain forests. It is sometimes mistaken for a squirrel as it bounds from limb to limb, probably chasing a red squirrel, its favorite dinner. If you’re not familiar with skunks, consider yourself fortunate. Best known for the awful scent they release when scared or under attack, skunks are otherwise cute, fluffy animals with distinctive black-and-white markings. Most common is the striped skunk, its white-on-black stripe running from nose to tail tip. The spotted skunk is rarer but lives in Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks.

Badger

Striped Skunk

Foxes, coyotes, black bears, bobcats, and mountain lions also inhabit this region. Most avoid crowds and shun humans, but coyotes and black bears are frequently spotted in the middle of Yosemite Valley, where they rely on the misguided benevolence of humans who feed them. Coyotes resemble dogs, with long gray fur and bushy tails. They feed primarily on small rodents and the occasional fawn, and grow to weigh between 25 and 30 pounds. One of the coyote’s most distinctive traits is its howl, a long, haunting call that some consider frightening. The black bear is the largest mammal in these parks. It is often confused with the grizzly bear, which is much larger and much more fearsome. Incidents involving black bears usually occur due to improper food storage. Never feed bears, and by no means should you walk toward them. Observe from a safe distance. Despite their names, black bears can also be brown, blond, and cinnamon colored. Adult black bears grow to 250 to 500 pounds, and larger ones have been recorded. They are omnivores, eating both meat and vegetation, and they’ve proved very adaptable to hot dogs, hamburgers, and cookies. Unfortunately, once they become dependent on human food, these bears can prove bold and determined to continue their new diet. At this point, they must be trapped and killed by park rangers. Therefore, you must follow food-storage regulations.

Coyote

Black Bear

Foxes, bobcats, and mountain lions are less frequently spotted in the parks, especially the latter two. The most common fox is the gray fox, with its bushy tail, reddish-gray coat, and black paws. Members of the dog family, they look larger than they actually are—average weight is 10 pounds. Foxes are skillful hunters and eat rodents, berries, rabbits, and insects. Bobcats inhabit Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks. They are nocturnal and resemble a large cat, with a black-spotted tawny coat. The “bob” refers to their stub of a tail, a feature shared with their close relative, the lynx. Adults max out at about 20 pounds, and while much smaller than the next predator on our list, bobcats can kill deer many times their size. They are masters of the slow hunt—methodical, solitary, and patient. Mountain lions shy away from any human contact, so seeing one is extremely rare. These large cats can reach 5 feet in length. Their fur ranges from tawny to gray, their tails tipped with black. Solitary predators who prefer elk and deer, in lean times they’ll settle for a porcupine or skunk.

Gray Fox

Bobcat

Mountain Lion

The Ecosystem

Quite often, the ravages of nature are the forces of change, and such has been the case in these national parks. Recent rock slides and floods have reestablished nature’s supremacy, and preservation efforts and long-term studies have been underway for more than a decade.

In Yosemite, the return of the peregrine falcon was heralded as a milestone. When bird-watchers counted three nesting pairs and five offspring in 1996, the news traveled across the nation.

Considerable attention is going toward restoring meadows, limiting trails, and bringing back native plants pushed out by the impact of humans. The valley has seen the reseeding of a black-oak forest along the bikeway between Yosemite Village and Yosemite Falls, while controversy regarding its future (as well as that of Hetch Hetchy) rages on.

Large boulders placed in the Merced River long ago by settlers and early park managers changed the course of the waterway and created unnatural swimming holes. These are being removed, and the river is being allowed to pursue its own direction. Volunteers are also working to repair damage done by hikers who step off the trails.

In Sequoia & Kings Canyon, fire management has been a major concern since the 1960s, when the park policies began to be questioned. Early on, tree preservation was the cornerstone of park policy, so natural wildfires were squelched whenever possible. But after a noticeable decline in tree germination, research determined that fire is necessary—it dries out the cones to release their seeds, burns underbrush, and clears openings in the canopy for sunlight to reach the seedlings. In 1968, an unprecedented fire-management program began that allows some natural wildfires to burn, sets prescribed burns, and suppresses unwanted blazes. Consequently, over the past 20 years, the increase in the regeneration rate of giant sequoias has been noticeable.

Other environmental concerns for the park include air quality and drought. Unfortunately, Sequoia & Kings Canyon is located near California’s smoggy Central Valley, and thus has the most chronically polluted air of the parks in the American West, often obscuring what would otherwise be superlative views. In 2004, the Environmental Protection Agency designated Sequoia & Kings Canyon as an area in which ozone pollution was a risk to human health. Ozone pollution also weakens the trees so that, when natural drought comes along, these damaged trees often die.

Dealing with the issues facing Yosemite and Sequoia & Kings Canyon requires time, money, and commitment—all high hurdles. Partnerships have been formed with foundations, nature conservancies, and even oil companies to provide funding for study and restoration. But the single biggest issue for both parks remains overcrowding—they are too popular for their own good.

For most of the 20th century and into the 21st, the parks have walked a tenuous line between increasing visitation and consistent management of visitation. Research has changed some policies; experience is changing others; and educational efforts will, we hope, help preserve the parks for future generations of nature enthusiasts.