CHOCOLATE CHIP–RICOTTA CHEESECAKE

Grated orange zest sets off the chocolate and gives this cheesecake a bit of unexpected lightness, despite all the eggs and the whole-milk ricotta. (Plus, chocolate and orange are such a classic combo!) The ricotta gives this cheesecake a more rustic texture: not quite as smooth nor as sour as a traditional cheesecake, certainly sweeter with a slight graininess to the set. The results are a bit softer than a standard cheesecake, a little bit mousse-like and perhaps more appealing after a big dinner. One warning: the concoction must “ripen” in the fridge for at least twelve hours before serving, not only to improve the set, but also to blend the flavors.

Single-crust version of All-Butter Crust

8 large eggs, at room temperature

2 cups granulated white sugar

2 pounds whole-milk ricotta, at room temperature

2 tablespoons finely grated orange zest

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon salt

¼ cup all-purpose flour

15 ounces semisweet or milk chocolate chips (about 2½ cups)

1. Position the rack in the center of the oven. Heat the oven to 350°F. Prepare and shape the crust as directed in a 13 × 18-inch lipped sheet pan.

2. Prick the crust repeatedly with a flatware fork across the flat surface and up the sides. Cover the crust loosely with aluminum foil and bake for 10 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and immediately remove the foil. Maintain the oven temperature.

3. Using a handheld electric mixer or a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, beat the eggs and sugar in a large bowl at medium speed until you can make wide ribbons that fall off the beaters, about 6 minutes. The mixture should almost double in volume. Beat in the ricotta until smooth.

4. Beat in the orange zest, vanilla, and salt, then beat in the flour until smooth. Scrape down and remove the beaters or whisk. Fold in the chocolate chips with a silicone spatula. Pour and spread the batter into the blind-baked crust.

5. Bake until lightly browned, puffed, and fully set, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack to room temperature, about 1½ hours. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to 2 days before serving.