Ingredients INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names appear below in italics.
Persea gratissima (Avocado) Oil
DESCRIPTION:
This is a medium-weight oil with a shelf life of about 1 year. Avocado oil is easily absorbed into deep tissue, and with its wonderfully emollient properties, it is ideal for mature skin. It also helps to relieve the dryness and itching of psoriasis and eczema. It is also said to help with skin regeneration.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
15.2% |
Palmitic Acid |
5.5% |
Stearic Acid |
0.1% |
Oleic Acid |
62.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
16.0% |
Linolenic Acid |
0.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
177–198 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.188 / .133 |
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
DESCRIPTION:
This is one of the thickest and heaviest oils available. It has a shelf life of 5 years. On skin, it is a humectant and helps to retain moisture levels. In soap, it makes for a softer bar but improves lather when used in small quantities. It can also make the soap a bit translucent.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
0.0% |
Palmitic Acid |
2.0% |
Stearic Acid |
1.0% |
Oleic Acid |
7.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
3.0% |
Linolenic Acid |
0.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
87.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
176–186 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.181 / .128 |
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
DESCRIPTION:
This is a hard butter with a melting temperature of 100°F (38°C). It has a relatively long shelf life of 2 to 5 years. It also contains polyphenols and phyosterols and some skin softening Vitamin E. Cocoa butter provides an occlusive layer on our skin.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
0.5% |
Palmitic Acid |
25.0% |
Stearic Acid |
35.0% |
Oleic Acid |
32.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
3.0% |
Linolenic Acid |
0.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
188–200 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.194 /.137 |
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
DESCRIPTION:
This is solid at temperatures below 76°F (24°C). This is a medium-weight oil with a shelf life of about 2 to 4 years. On skin, coconut oil contains some very potent antioxidants that can help with skin aging and help repair damage caused by light and radiation. It softens, moisturizes, and soothes chapped and itchy skin. In soap, coconut oil creates loads of big bubbles. Although it makes a hard bar, it melts very quickly in water, making it a great soap for hard water conditions. It is also extremely cleansing, but in high proportion, it can be very drying to the skin.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
7.1% |
Capric Acid |
6.0% |
Lauric Acid |
48.0% |
Myristic Acid |
16.5% |
Palmitic Acid |
8.0% |
Stearic Acid |
3.8% |
Oleic Acid |
5.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
2.5% |
Linolenic Acid |
0.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
250–264 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.257 / .180 |
Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
DESCRIPTION:
This is another great lightweight oil. It has a relatively short shelf life of 6 months to 1 year. On skin, it can help to retain moisture and reduce inflammation and itchiness. In soap, I recommend that it is used sparingly because of its short shelf life.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
0.0% |
Palmitic Acid |
8.0% |
Stearic Acid |
4.0% |
Oleic Acid |
18.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
68.0% |
Linolenic Acid |
0.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
185–200 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.193 / .123 |
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
DESCRIPTION:
Technically, this is not an oil but rather a liquid wax ester. It is lightweight and has a long shelf life of at least 2 years. It is great for hair and skin because it mixes with sebum, which allows it to be washed away. It is an excellent emollient. In soap, it will add moisturizing and conditioning properties as well as extending the shelf life of the soap.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
0.0% |
Palmitic Acid |
0.0% |
Palmitoleic Acid |
2.0% |
Stearic Acid |
0.0% |
Oleic Acid |
0.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
0.0% |
Linolenic Acid |
0.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
90–95 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.093 / .069 |
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter
DESCRIPTION:
This is a medium-hard butter with a melting temperature of 86°F to 98.6°F (30°C to 37°C) and a slight sweet scent. It has a shelf life of 2 to 3 years. It has emollient properties, high oxidative ability, and wound healing and regenerative abilities.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
0.0% |
Palmitic Acid |
9.0% |
Stearic Acid |
38.0% |
Oleic Acid |
41.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
6.0% |
Linolenic Acid |
0.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
183–198 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.191 /.128 |
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
DESCRIPTION:
This a medium-weight oil with a shelf life of about 1 year. It is known for its skin moisturizing and nourishing properties. It makes an extremely gentle soap, suitable for sensitive skin types. Used by itself in soap, it yields a lather that is creamy rather than bubbly and while still fresh, the lather may actually feel a bit slimy. That sliminess goes away after a 6-month or more cure time.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
0.0% |
Palmitic Acid |
14.0% |
Stearic Acid |
3.0% |
Oleic Acid |
71.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
10.0% |
Linolenic Acid |
1.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
184–196 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.190 / .135 |
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil
DESCRIPTION:
Rice Bran oil is a medium-weight oil with a shelf life of 6 months to 1 year. It is high in vitamin E and fatty acids that make skin soft and improve elasticity. It also helps with cell regeneration. In soap, it behaves similarly to olive oil, but I find it adds silkiness to the soap and makes a slightly harder, longer lasting bar.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
0.0% |
Palmitic Acid |
15.0% |
Stearic Acid |
2.0% |
Oleic Acid |
42.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
39.0% |
Linolenic Acid |
1.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
185–195 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.185 / .128 |
Butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit
DESCRIPTION:
This is a soft butter with a melting temperature of 97°F to 100°F (36°C to 38°C). It has a shelf life of 2 to 3 years. Shea penetrates deep into the skin, rejuvenating damaged cells and restoring elasticity and tone. In soap, it has a larger than average proportion of fats that are not saponifiable, meaning your soap will actually retain some moisturizing qualities.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
0.0% |
Palmitic Acid |
5.0% |
Stearic Acid |
40.0% |
Oleic Acid |
47.0% |
Linoleic Acid |
5.0% |
Linolenic Acid |
0.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
170–190 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.180 /.128 |
Prunus dulcis (Almond) oil
DESCRIPTION:
This is a lightweight oil with a shelf life of 1 year. This emollient oil softens and nourishes the skin. It is often used for massage. In soap, it creates a conditioning, stable lather.
FATTY ACID PROFILE:
Caprylic Acid |
0.0% |
Capric Acid |
0.0% |
Lauric Acid |
0.0% |
Myristic Acid |
0.0% |
Palmitic Acid |
0.0% |
Stearic Acid |
6.5% |
Oleic Acid |
69.4% |
Linoleic Acid |
17.4% |
Linolenic Acid |
0.0% |
Ricinoleic Acid |
0.0% |
SAP VALUE RANGE:
190–200 |
CONVERTED SAP:
KOH / NaOH |
.195 /.136 |
Citric acid
DESCRIPTION:
Citric acid is primarily used to adjust the acidity of a formulation. It is naturally occurring in citric fruits and juices.
E-wax NF
DESCRIPTION:
E-wax is an all-in-one, easy to use, emulsifier to combine water and oil into a lotion or cream. NF means that it conforms to the National Formulary guidelines.
Glycerin
DESCRIPTION:
Glycerin is a humectant, drawing moisture from the air. It also forms a protective layer that helps prevent moisture loss.
Lanolin
DESCRIPTION:
Technically, lanolin is a wax. It is the yellow, extremely viscous substance sheep produce that helps them to shed water from their coats. Most lanolin is a by-product of wool processing, as it needs to be removed prior to dyeing or weaving. For skin, it is a wonderful protectant that creates a semi-permeable layer to keep the elements out and the moisture in.
Phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol
DESCRIPTION:
Optiphen is a broad-spectrum paraben-free preservative that can be used to preserve emulsified products that contain water, such as lotions and creams. There are other preservatives, but this is one of my favorites.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
DESCRIPTION:
Rosemary oleoresin, or ROE as it is often abbreviated, is added to oils as an antioxidant. It helps to keep oils from oxidizing and becoming rancid and it prolongs the shelf life of a product. This is not a preservative.
Stearic acid
DESCRIPTION:
See Fatty Acid Glossary
Tocopherol
DESCRIPTION:
T-50 is an all-natural blend of mixed tocopherols (Vitamin E) and edible vegetable oils. It functions as an excellent antioxidant for oils or products that contain oil. It helps delay oxidation and will help to extend the shelf life of oils and oil-based products. It works a bit differently than the rosemary oleoresin, so I often use both.
Arnica montana
Arnica is known for its natural anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to reduce swelling. Arnica salve is a muscle workhorse. It is wonderful for sprains, strains, and pulled ligaments or muscles! It also helps bruised areas heal.
Calendula officinalis
Anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial, calendula blossoms are good for minor cuts and burns. It promotes healing by aiding clotting.
Matricaria chamomilla
German chamomile contains the flavonoids apigenin, luteolin, and quercetin, and the volatile oils alpha-bisabolol and matricin, which help to make chamomiles anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, and antioxidant. It is also known for being calming, soothing, and healing.
Anthemis nobilis
See German Chamomile—Roman chamomile has a very similar effect on skin.
Stellaria media
Chickweed leaf is a great soother of itchy and sore skin. It helps to cool and relieve inflamed areas.
Symphytum officialis
The high allantoin content in comfrey is the star of this herb. It encourages the renewal of skin cells, the strengthening of skin tissues, and helps to heal wounds as well as reducing the visible effects of aging by bringing back elasticity to the skin. It is also a mild astringent, which makes comfrey great for sunburn, ulcers, and sores. It is so powerful that it should not to be used on deep cuts because it can trap infection by healing the top layer of skin faster than deeper layers.
Lavandula angustifolia
Lavender is a superstar for burns and encouraging wound healing. It has also been found to be effective against the principal bacteria involved in acne. Lavender has been known to soothe insect bites and bee stings as well.
Althaea officinalis
Marshmallow root soothes skin and promotes wound healing.
Plantago major
With astringent, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-itch properties, plantain leaf has a long history of being used for problem skin. It contains salicylic acid, which helps to reduce acne breakouts. It is also great for bee stings. Just pick a leaf, mash it up a bit, and apply as a poultice to the sting.
Rosmarinus officinalis
Rosemary removes excess oil from skin without causing excess dryness. It has regenerating and stimulating effects that help rejuvenate skin and give it a more youthful glow. It helps to restore elasticity and firmness to the skin and encourages skin cell turnover and renewal.
Prunella vulgaris
Self-heal has astringent, antibacterial, and antiseptic properties, and it helps to reduce pain and promotes healing of cuts and scrapes. It can even be used on skin rashes.
Hypericum perforatum
St. John’s wort helps to support skin elasticity, soothes redness and irritation, and works wonders on burns, wounds, insect bites, and other skin irritations.
Hypericum perforatum
Thyme’s natural antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties help to remove excess oil and dirt from pores and reduce acne outbreaks. Thyme contains powerful antioxidants that can help protect skin from premature aging.