CHAPTER 4
ALCHEMY FOR THE HOME

For items that are used around the house, beeswax reigns supreme. It shines, both figuratively and literally, as a furniture and wood polish or conditioner. It also transforms fabric into a reusable food protector. The sole outlier in this section is the Woodcutter Incense, which uses propolis as one of its star ingredients.

EASY

FURNITURE POLISH

Beeswax furniture polish is considered the ultimate in wood care, due in part to its soft, satin shine. The touch of carnauba wax results in a harder, shinier finish.

MATERIALS

Beeswax, yellow	1.5 oz	43 g	10%
Carnauba wax	0.4 oz	10 g	2.4%
Turpentine	13.1 oz	372 g	87.6%

Double boiler

Wooden stir stick

Wide-mouth jars with lids (shorter jars work better for scooping out polish)

Yield: Makes approximately 16 fluid ounces (475 ml)

1. Melt the waxes in a double boiler.

2. Remove from the heat and stir in the turpentine.

3. Once it is completely mixed, pour into wide mouth jars.

4. Apply the polish with a clean cloth and rub in small circles. Turn the cloth as it becomes dirty. Allow the polish to dry and then buff the same area with a clean cloth. If more than one coat is desired, wait two days between applications.

WHAT IS TURPENTINE?

Pure gum turpentine is a natural derivative of pine resin. It has a strong odor and care should be taken not to inhale the fumes. It is possible to buy low odor turpentine.

EASY

SALAD BOWL CONDITIONER

For food related utensils, such as salad bowls and wooden spoons, a more food-friendly concoction is required. I swear by mineral oil, which has an almost indefinite shelf life and won’t go rancid. Recently, however, I have tried some of the other suggestions, such as walnut oil, and I have to say it is nice. With this recipe, either oil works fine.

MATERIALS

Beeswax, yellow	1.8 oz	50 g	25%
Mineral oil (or walnut oil)	5.3 oz	150 g	75%

Double boiler

Wooden stir stick

Small wide-mouth jar or tin

Yield: Makes approximately 8 fluid ounces (235 ml)

1. In a double boiler, combine the beeswax and oil and heat until the beeswax is completely melted. Stir until thoroughly mixed.

2. Pour into small wide-mouth jar or tin.

3. To use, simply rub a small dollop into the salad bowl with hands or a clean cloth and wipe with a dry cloth.

EASY

WOOD CONDITIONER CREAM

MATERIALS

Beeswax, yellow	5.3 oz	60 g	28.5%
Turpentine	2.1 oz	150 g	71.5%

Double boiler

Wooden stir stick

Wide-mouth jar with lid (shorter jars are easier to scoop from)

Yield: Makes approximately 8 fluid ounces (235 ml)

This recipe is perfect for nourishing the wood. It cleans and protects in one step.

1. Melt the wax in a double boiler.

2. When melted, remove from the heat and stir in the turpentine.

3. Mix well and pour into a wide mouth jar.

EASY

WAXED COTTON FOOD WRAPS

I have included two recipes for food wraps: one uses just beeswax, while the other utilizes a blend of beeswax, resin, and oil. The technique for waxing the fabric are the same. I personally prefer the beeswax-only recipe for sandwich wraps, but as a substitute for plastic cling film, I prefer the beeswax/resin blend.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT FABRIC

Part of the success of food wraps relies on making good choices when selecting the fabric. Look for highly absorbent natural fibers such as cotton and linen. Also, look at the tightness of the weave. A thin, gauzy material will not keep food fresh, regardless of how much wax is used. Conversely, a heavy canvas, once waxed, may be too difficult to bend around the food. For sandwich wraps, I like to use a medium-weight cotton twill. For cheese wraps, I prefer a lightweight cotton.

HOW TO APPLY THE WAX

Everyone has a preferred technique for applying the wax onto the fabric, whether it’s dipping the fabric into the wax, applying the wax with a brush, or sprinkling grated wax over the surface of the fabric and heating it. Personally, I prefer to use an electric skillet to melt the wax and then submerge the fabric in the wax, so that the fibers fully soak up the wax. The actual amount of wax or wax/resin mixture needed depends on the size of the electric skillet. One pound (455 g) of beeswax should be plenty for a bunch of wraps.

MATERIALS

Beeswax-Only Food Wraps:

Fabric, cut to desired size—see sidebars

Beeswax, approximately 1 pound (455 g)

Double boiler or small electric skillet

Wooden stir stick

Heat gun

Sewing machine and thread (optional—see sidebar)

Beeswax/Resin Blend Food Wraps:

Fabric, cut to desired size—see sidebars

1 pound (455 g) beeswax

3 ounces (85 g) pine gum rosin

1/2 ounce (15 g) jojoba oil

Double boiler or small electric skillet

Wooden stir stick

Heat gun

Sewing machine and thread (optional—see sidebar)

Yield: Variable, depending on the size of your fabric and electric skillet or double boiler.

SIZES TO TRY

Small items = 8" x 8" (20 cm x 20 cm)

Cheese size = 10" x 10" (25.5 cm x 25.5 cm)

Sandwich size = 12" x 12" (20 cm x 30 cm)

Baguette = 15" x 26" (38 cm x 66 cm)

Bread = 18" x 24" (46 cm x 60 cm)

1. Melt all the ingredients in a double boiler or small electric skillet over low heat. Stir to ensure ingredients are thoroughly combined. Take care not to overheat. The mixture is now ready for fabric waxing.

2. Holding on to one corner, dip part of the fabric into the wax. Use a wooden stir stick to help submerge the fabric if needed, continuing to hold one corner up out of the wax. Pull the fabric out of the wax and allow the wax to drip off and the fabric to cool slightly.

3. Now, dip the unwaxed portion of the fabric into the wax. Lift it out and allow it to drip and cool slightly.

4. Before the fabric cools completely, stretch and lay the fabric flat on a work surface. At this point, there is probably a surplus of wax on the fabric. Go over the fabric with a heat gun and some paper toweling to absorb some of the excess wax. While it’s still warm, pull the fabric in all directions to straighten the grain of the fabric. Allow to cool completely.

To finish the cut edges, I like to use my sewing machine to add a zigzag stitch around the perimeter. Although not really necessary to keep fraying in check, I find it gives the wraps a more finished appearance.

MODERATE

WOODCUTTER INCENSE

Growing up, my only real exposure to incense was the German woodcutter incense smoker my family used over the holidays. It used incense cones, which gave off a lovely, woodsy aroma when burned. Later in college, I had friends who occasionally burned incense sticks. They smelled horrible and gave me a pounding headache. At the time, I thought perhaps my memory of the incense from my childhood was wrong, and that all incense smelled like the sticks. What I know now is that there is a huge difference between well-made incense that rely on natural resins, woods, and other botanical ingredients and the cheap incense for sale at the convenience store.

A few years ago, I learned that honey and propolis are both really good ingredients for incense. I decided to try my hand at making them. I’m not sure if I achieved what I remembered from childhood, but I am happy with my results. I also revel in the collecting of local materials, such as pine needles and rose petals, for my incense and the grinding and molding of cones that reflect who I am today and the world in which I live. The following recipe is the one I call my Woodcutter Incense. Enjoy!

MATERIALS

1/2 teaspoon propolis ground

1/4 teaspoon dragon’s blood powder

1 tablespoon (approx. 15 g) red sandalwood powder

1 teaspoon cherry bark powder

1/2 teaspoon makko powder

1/4 teaspoon orris root powder

1/4 teaspoon orange peel powder

1/2 teaspoon juniper berries, crushed

1/2 teaspoon ceremonial sage, powdered

1/2 teaspoon pine needles, powdered

1 teaspoon rose petals, powdered

Honey, as needed

Water, as needed

Mortar and pestle

Wax paper

Yield: Makes approximately 12 cones

1. Make sure all dry ingredients are finely ground. For wood and tougher items such as pine needles, chopping them first in a spice grinder helps. Once all the ingredients are at least a rough powder, grind them together to create a relatively homogenous powder.

2. Pour most of the powder onto the wax paper. Reserve just a little in case too much liquid is added. Create a well in the middle of the powder and add a couple drops of honey, but not too much or the incense will smell like burnt sugar. The honey is usually not enough to make a dough, so I add water in very small amounts until a malleable dough is formed. Add in the remaining powder and a drop or two of water and the dough should be ready for forming.

3. The cones are best when made proportionately tall and narrow. This shape allows them to dry out quickly and thoroughly and is a good shape for burning. Each cone uses approximately 1/4 teaspoon of dough.

4. Stand the incense cones upright on the wax paper and place them in an out-of-the-way place to dry out for at least 2 days. Once dry, store them in an airtight container until ready to use.

EASY

SCENTED BEESWAX MELTS

Melts or tarts are chunks of scented wax that melt easily over a tea light candle (my preference) or a specially-made electric warmer. The idea is that the heat from the candle melts the wax, which in turn scents the air. I prefer scenting wax in this way rather than adding scent to candles directly. One reason is that I prefer to use essential oils rather than fragrance oils. Essential oils aren’t really made to be burned. At best, the scent can change or dissipate. At worst, the essential oil can separate from the wax and cause the flame to flare up. With beeswax melts, that isn’t a problem. The warmth of the tea light flame is just enough to allow the wax to release the wonderful scent.

In order to produce a melt that is hard enough to keep its shape when cool yet soft enough to melt readily over a small flame, the beeswax needs to be mixed with an oil. For this, I like to use palm kernel oil. It is solid at room temperature, but melts easily at 75°F (24°C).

I like to mold these into individual deli cups, but they can also be molded in small silicone molds.

MATERIALS

Palm kernel oil	3 oz	85 g	42.86%
Beeswax, yellow	3 oz	85 g	42.86%
Essential oil blend	1 oz	28 g	14.29%

Double boiler or microwave and container

Wooden stir stick

Silicone mold or 1 ounce (28 ml) deli cups

Yield: Makes approximately 8 melts (1 ounce, or 28 ml, each)

1. Heat the palm kernel oil in a double boiler or in the microwave until completely melted.

2. Add the beeswax and continue to heat until it is also melted. Remove from heat and allow to cool to about 125°F (52°C). It should still be liquid, but not hot. Add the scent and stir well.

3. Pour the mixture into silicone molds or deli cups.

MODERATE

SEALING WAX

I always thought of sealing wax as something archaic or something that might be used only for wedding invitations. Then, I had an idea: instead of using plastic shrink bands on our honey jars, how about using sealing wax? It took quite a few trials to get it right, but I finally achieved the effect I was after. It is a fun way to use a traditional technique. To mold them, look for silicone molds used to form ice sticks for water bottles.

MATERIALS

2 ounces (55 g) beeswax

2 ounces (55 g) damar resin

2 ounces (55 g) shellac

Marble dust or plaster powder, as needed

Earth or other coloring pigment, as desired

Double boiler

Wooden stir stick

Mold or aluminum foil folded into a v-shape

Yield: Makes approximately 4 to 5 sticks

1. Weigh the beeswax, resin, and shellac and add to the top of a double boiler. Warm over low heat until the resin has melted. They are incompatible materials, so there will be separation between the shellac and the other ingredients. This is okay.

2. Begin to sprinkle in the marble powder, going slowly and stirring to avoid creating clumps. The marble powder facilitates the bonding of all the ingredients.

3. When the layers have started to homogenize, begin sprinkling in coloring pigment of your choice. How much color depends on the color intensity of the pigment. Each pigment will require a different amount. Color can be tested by dabbing some hot wax on piece of scrap paper. The hardened seal will be slightly less vivid than the molten wax.

4. Pour the wax into molds or aluminum foil.