INGREDIENTS
GOOD FATS
All oils can go rancid, so they should be stored in a cool, dark place. If you can buy them in opaque containers, all the better, to protect them from light. Since you also use these oils in savory cooking, you should be able to finish a bottle of oil before it turns. If you don’t use much oil generally, buy small bottles.
| TYPE | TASTE | PREFERRED VARIETY |
| olive | ranges from mild and savory to intense and bitter | Spanish Arbequina, for its fruity notes |
| neutral | tasteless | grapeseed, for its clean neutral taste; sunflower seed is good too |
| nut | nutty, full-bodied, rich | toasted, especially for walnut oil |
| coconut | tropical, nutty | virgin or extra-virgin in solid form (will melt at warm room temperature) |
FLOURS AND GRAINS
I’ve categorized the grains here by gluten content, from highest levels to none. If you are following a strict gluten-free diet, be sure to buy grains that were processed in a gluten-free facility. All grains taste best fresh (look for the best-by date). Because whole grains have their natural oils intact, they can go rancid at room temperature. Store them airtight in the freezer for up to 6 months.
WHEAT FLOURS
Whole wheat flours are milled from wheat berries with the bran, endosperm, and germ intact, making them high in fiber.
| TYPE | MILLING PROCESS | TASTE | TEXTURE OF BAKED GOOD |
| whole wheat | medium to medium-coarse grind of hard red wheat berriess | earthy, subtle raw-sugar sweetness; tannic and slightly bitter, like red wine and coffee | hearty, with some chew |
| white or ivory whole wheat | medium grind of hard white wheat berries | slightly sweet, mild earthiness, closest to all-purpose | more substantial than all-purpose, but not by much |
| whole wheat pastry | fine grind of soft red or white wheat berries | earthy, mellow sweetness, hint of bitterness | flaky, tender, and delicate |
| graham | coarse grind of hard red wheat berries | rustic, wheaty, honeyed sweetness | nubby and crunchy |
| spelt | fine to coarse grind of an ancient wheat strain | sweet, mild, hint of walnuts | soft and delicate |
LOW- TO NO-GLUTEN GRAINS AND SEEDS
| TYPE (GLUTEN) | MILLING PROCESS | TASTE | TEXTURE OF BAKED GOOD |
| barley (very low) | fine to medium grind of hulled barley with bran | malty and tangy, like pale ale; caramel notes; browned butter nuttiness | tender and a little crumbly |
| rye (light, medium, and dark) (very low) | fine to coarse grind with germ, bran, and endosperm, sifted (darker means more bran and germ) | malted milk, dark brown sugar sweetness (darker means more pronounced flavor) | dense with crisp crusts, tender insides |
| oats (none, but look for “gluten-free” on the label) | steel-cut are cut oat groats; old-fashioned are rolled from steamed and flattened groats | mild, milky, sweet | tender, chewy, and moist |
| cornmeal and corn flour (none) | coarse to very fine grind with hull and germ | grassy hay, sweet, creamy | crumbly with very crunchy outsides and tender insides |
| sorghum (none) | very fine grind of whole cereal | mild, sweet, corny | very smooth, tender |
| buckwheat (light to dark) (none) | groats are hulled seeds; flour is fine to coarse grind of fruit seeds (lighter has been sifted more) | nutty, mineral, fruity tartness like sorrel and rhubarb (to which it’s related) | smooth and tender with fine crumb; slightly crumbly with coarser |
| QUINOA (white, golden, and red) (none) | seeds | faintly grassy, toasty like sesame | moist and chewy (from cooked ground) |
| millet (none) | ancient seeds | mild, sweet, nutty | lightly crunchy (baked whole) |
| rice and rice flour (sweet, Asian, white, red, brown, and black) (none) | red, brown, and black are whole grains; flours are fine to medium grind of kernels | sweet and grassy; brown and red are nutty, black is floral | tender (cooked whole); chewy (baked sweet flour); slightly crumbly (baked white or brown flour) |
NUTS AND SEEDS
The nuts and seeds used in this book are nutritious and full of fiber; their most significant attributes are listed here.
The oils in nuts and seeds can go rancid, so both whole and ground nuts and seeds are best stored in the freezer. Opened containers of nut butters and milks should be refrigerated, and oils kept in cool, dark places.
TOASTING NUTS OR SEEDS
Nuts and seeds become crisper and develop deeper flavors when toasted because heat releases their delicious oils. To save time and be slightly more energy efficient, I toast them in the oven as it’s preheating.
Spread the nuts or seeds on a half sheet pan, place in the heating oven, and bake, shaking the pan occasionally, until toasted and fragrant, about 10 minutes. The exact time will depend on how quickly your oven heats and on the nuts or seeds; check them every 5 minutes. Cool completely on the pan on a wire rack.
TOASTING HAZELNUTS:
Toast hazelnuts as above until most of the skins have split open, 15 to 20 minutes. Wrap the hot hazelnuts in a clean towel and let stand for 5 minutes. Roll the hazelnuts in the towel, vigorously rubbing them against one another and the towel. Don’t be gentle—you want most of those skins to come off (some will remain). Transfer the nuts to a plate and cool completely.
TOASTING COCONUT:
Toast coconut like nuts, but stir every few minutes and pull out of the oven when fragrant and light golden brown, about 5 minutes. (Watch carefully, because coconut can go from gold to black in a heartbeat.) It will turn golden brown as it cools on the pan.