Mocha Chip Cookies

Using oil, not butter, is the secret to these cookies’ crisp exteriors and soft insides. And its neutral taste allows for the introduction of coffee, which highlights the deep complexity of the dark chocolate. After dozens of attempts at a butterless chocolate chip cookie that could best the classics, I finally realized that I had to drop the egg too. It muted the rich flavors, here accentuated by all whole wheat flour.

Note that you must make the dough for these at least half a day before.

TIPS:

•  It’s hard to wait so long to bake the dough, but it’s important. The flour needs to fully hydrate so the cookies set properly in the oven. It’s not just a matter of deeper flavors, though that happens too, it’s a matter of necessity. Think of these as delayed-gratification cookies.

•  If you’re making these for kids or others who don’t like the taste of coffee, skip the espresso powder. The brewed coffee enriches the flavor of the cookies without an identifiable coffee taste; the powder makes them mocha.

makes about 6 dozen

vegan (dairy-free, no eggs), no nuts

1. Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk both sugars, the oil, coffee, vanilla, and espresso powder, if you’d like, in a large bowl until the mixture is emulsified and smooth. Fold in the dry ingredients until smooth, then fold in the chocolate chips until evenly distributed. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 1 day.

2. When you’re ready to bake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Line two large cookie sheets with parchment paper.

3. Using a 1½-teaspoon (1¼-inch) cookie scoop or a teaspoon measure, drop the dough by rounded teaspoons onto one of the prepared sheets, spacing them 1½ inches apart. Gently press the tops flat.

4. Bake until the cookies are golden brown and set, 8 to 10 minutes; do not overbake. While the first batch bakes, drop the remaining dough on the second sheet and flatten. Bake after the first sheet comes out.

5. Cool completely on the sheet on a wire rack.

MAKE AHEAD

The dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. The cookies taste best the day they’re made but will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Salted Chocolate Chip Cookies

Sprinkle a little flaky pink Himalayan salt, fleur de sel, or Maldon sea salt on top of the cookies before baking.