Banana-Oatmeal Chocolate Chippers

When it comes to fans of all-American chocolate chip cookies, there’s a crunchy camp and a chewy camp. And then there are those of us who want it both ways—crunchy tops and chewy middles. My secret to striking that balance: bananas. They keep the cookies tender, and their natural sugars help brown the tops and edges. Oats bring their hearty texture to the mix, while barley flour lends a malty caramel depth. Chopping the chocolate into tiny bits helps all of these flavors to stand out—the effect is more like a chocolate mist. Because I want crunch and chew in each bite, I make these cookies on the smaller side. If you’re into giant cookies, try the chewy biggie variation that follows.

TIP: You can substitute 1 cup (170 g) mini chocolate chips for the chopped chocolate.

makes about 7 dozen

no nuts

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Line two large cookie sheets with parchment paper.

2. Whisk the oats, barley flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl. Beat the butter and both sugars in a large bowl with an electric mixer on low speed until blended, then raise the speed to medium-high and beat until smooth. Scrape the bowl. Turn the speed to medium and beat in the egg until incorporated. Scrape the bowl again. Turn the speed to medium-low, and beat in the bananas and vanilla until incorporated. Scrape the bowl and, mixing on low speed, gradually add the dry ingredients, beating just until all streaks of flour disappear. Add the chocolate and beat just until evenly dispersed.

3. Using a 1½-teaspoon (1¼-inch) cookie scoop or a teaspoon measure, drop the dough by rounded teaspoons onto one of the prepared sheets, spacing them 1 inch apart.

4. Bake until the cookies are golden brown, about 15 minutes for cakey cookies, 20 minutes for crunchy ones, or in between for crunchy edges and soft centers.

5. While the first batch bakes, drop the remaining dough on the second sheet. Bake after the first sheet comes out.

6. Gently press the tops flat with the bottom of a glass as soon as the cookies come out of the oven. Cool on the sheet on a wire rack for 5 minutes, then transfer to the rack to cool completely.

MAKE AHEAD

The dough can be refrigerated for up to 1 day. The cookies taste best the day they’re made but will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

OATMEAL-RAISIN COOKIES

Swap 1 cup (167 g) raisins for the chocolate. Add ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg and ⅛ teaspoon ground allspice to the dry ingredients.

BANANA-OATMEAL CHOCOLATE CHIP BIGGIES

Swap coarsely chopped dark chocolate or regular or large chocolate chips for the finely chopped chocolate. Using a 3-tablespoon (2-inch) cookie scoop or a ¼-cup measure, drop the dough by scant ¼-cupfuls onto the cookie sheets. Bake until the cookies are golden brown, 20 to 22 minutes. Gently press the tops flat with the bottom of a glass as soon as they come out of the oven. Cool as above. (Makes about 3 dozen)