ROASTED RHUBARB TRIANGLES

By the time rhubarb simmers long enough to tame its intense tartness, it turns into mush. Roasting keeps the stalks intact but shrivels them and destroys their brilliant pink color. Poaching preserves their color and shape, but the syrup-soaked stalks end up too wet for any crust. My solution is to oven-poach-roast the stalks so the only liquid comes from the rhubarb as it mingles with the melting sugar. This technique results in pink rhubarb that is tender enough to bite through and sweet enough to satisfy. Shatteringly crisp phyllo triangles hold the fruit so you can pick up this dessert with your fingers, but the rhubarb can also simply be served in dishes with yogurt and toasted nuts.

makes 32

dairy-free, no eggs, no nuts

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F.

2. Put the sugar in a 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking dish. Scatter the zest over the sugar, then rub it into the sugar with your fingertips until the sugar is evenly moistened. Add the rhubarb and gently toss until evenly coated. Let stand until the rhubarb just starts to release its juices, about 10 minutes.

3. Cover the dish tightly with foil and roast until the rhubarb is almost tender, about 10 minutes. Uncover and gently stir the rhubarb to disperse the syrup evenly. Return to the oven and bake, uncovered, until the rhubarb is just tender and the syrup is bubbling and thickened, 5 to 15 minutes more. The timing can vary widely, depending on the thickness of your rhubarb stalks; the rhubarb is ready when a cake tester or paring knife slides through with just a bit of resistance. The fruit will continue to soften as it cools in the hot syrup.

4. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.

5. Arrange the rhubarb in a single layer on top of the crisps. The rhubarb will be a bit floppy, but it won’t fall apart if you pick it up by sliding a small offset spatula or butter knife under each piece to transfer it. Drizzle any remaining juices over the rhubarb and serve immediately.

MAKE AHEAD

The rhubarb can be refrigerated in its syrup for up to 3 days.