Recipes for the Lips

The color you choose to wear on your lips can completely change your look. Darkly colored lips are amazing for a night on the town but can seem overdone for daytime wear. Bright colors draw the eye’s attention and work best on big lips, whereas paler tones provide a flattering everyday effect on both small and large lips. You can make either statement by adding color to the basic lip balm and lip gloss recipes that follow.

First you’ll need to decide what kind of product you want to wear. Lip balm is usually clear but can come in lightly tinted shades. Lip gloss is usually colored, serving as a more casual and moisturizing choice than lipstick.

There are two simple ways you can add color to the Firm Lip Balm, Moisturizing Lip Balm, or Basic Lip Gloss recipes: mix in pure mica for a sparkly but sheer effect or — to create a more opaque product — blend in matte pigment and titanium dioxide or one of the eye or face recipes I suggest for use on the lips. Whichever method you choose, make sure the colors you add are approved for use on the lips (see Color Me Safe).

In the lip recipes that follow, I include some moisturizing ingredients like waxes and oils. The ones I use have long shelf lives: beeswax lasts indefinitely, while jojoba oil should last for five years if stored properly. When you make your products, you have many substitution options, including candelilla, carnauba, or soy wax, and almond, avocado, or olive oil, to name just a few. If you decide to use a different oil or wax than what’s called for in the recipe, though, be sure to look at the new ingredient’s shelf life. Your finished product will last only as long as the shortest shelf life of your ingredients. For example, if you use rose hip seed oil, your finished product can go rancid after six months.

Lip Balms and Glosses

These lip balm and lip gloss recipes are easy and versatile. If you want your lips to have a hint of color, you can add micas. If you want to add some flavoring — such as lavender essential oil — you can! Just follow the directions on the label of whatever you add, paying attention to the suggested amounts of flavoring.

Pro Tip

Heating Ingredients

When making lip gloss and lip balm, you will need to heat ingredients such as coconut oil and beeswax that are solid at room temperature.

Always cut the solid oils and waxes into small pieces and heat them slowly to prevent the final product from becoming brittle.

Never microwave or heat dry iron oxides or pigments, as they can light on fire. If you need to microwave a product with iron oxide or pigments in it, fully mix the concoction and make sure the pigments are thoroughly wet.

Firm Lip Balm

Yield: 4 (4-gram) tubes

This is the easiest lip balm recipe ever! All you need is a little oil and wax. It is somewhat sturdier than the Moisturizing Lip Balm. Due to its stiffness, this lip balm can be difficult to apply with a finger, but it works well in a tube. It offers the perfect amount of moisture in the winter or any time you have chapped lips.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Place the wax in a microwavable bowl or in a pot for stovetop heating.
  2. 2. Add the oil and slowly heat until the wax is liquid, stirring every few seconds.
  3. 3. Carefully transfer the hot liquid into lip balm tubes using a syringe. Work quickly to prevent the mixture from cooling and solidifying before you have finished.
  4. 4. Let cool for about 20 minutes.
  5. 5. Use a flat scraper or knife to cut the balm level with the tops of the lip balm tubes, then cap the tubes.
Pro Tip

Troubleshooting Lip Balm

Problem

Solution

Too hard

Add more oils.

Too soft

Add more wax.

Too sheer

Add more pigments.

Too opaque

Add more oils.

Lip balm breaks off

Wind the tube up as far as it will go, cut off the lip balm, melt it, and quickly refill the tube before the mixture cools.

Moisturizing Lip Balm

Yield: 3–4 (10-gram) jars

This lip balm is soft and supple. It would even make a great salve for very dry skin: you can use it on your hands, feet, and elbows! Store it in a small jar or metal tin, and apply with a finger or lip brush.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the jojoba oil with the mica(s) and oxide(s), if using, and stir until thoroughly mixed, with no streaks.
  2. 2. Combine the beeswax, coconut oil, and cocoa butter in a heatproof container. Heat slowly in a microwave or on the stovetop until melted, stirring often.
  3. 3. Stir the pigment-and-oil mixture into the melted solids until fully combined, with no streaks.
  4. 4. Slowly pour the hot liquid mixture into jars, leaving enough room for the lids to be screwed on.
  5. 5. Let cool for about 20 minutes, then screw on the lids.
Janel is wearing

Eyes: Morgan Le Fay shadow; Sun-Kissed eyeliner

Lips: Basic Lip Gloss mixed with Coral

Face: Eggnog foundation; Honey bronzer; Cupcake blush; Nectar highlighter

Basic Lip Gloss

Yield: 1 (1⁄4-fluid-ounce) tube

You can create your own simple lip gloss by mixing micas and/or pigments with castor oil and another oil. Using castor oil alone can dry out the lips, so it is important to include an additional fat. In the recipe below, that is the Moisturizing Lip Balm Base.

For a very subtle shimmer of color add any lip-safe mica. Pigments will result in a more opaque product and are a great option if you want a bright, dark, or intense lip gloss. Including both mica and pigment will create bright, bold colors with some glimmer. Another option for adding color is to mix in any of my lip-safe eye or face products. See here for application tips.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the castor oil with the mica(s) and pigment(s), if using, and stir until thoroughly mixed, with no streaks.
  2. 2. Measure out the lip balm into a heatproof container. Heat slowly in a microwave or on the stovetop until melted, stirring often.
  3. 3. Stir the pigment-and-oil mixture into the melted lip balm base until fully combined, with no streaks.
  4. 4. Stand the lip gloss tube upright, then pour in the liquid using a plastic syringe or metal flavor injector. Fill to the rim, insert the lip gloss wand, and screw the lid on tight.
Pro Tip

Troubleshooting Lip Gloss

Problem

Solution

Lid won’t close properly

Use an empty syringe to suck out excess liquid.

Marbling

Add pigment to the oil first, then add to the melted balm.

Lumpy

Continue mixing.

Color Me Safe

Before you add any color to your lip balm or gloss, make sure that color is safe to use on your lips. This list is a good place to start, but always double-check ingredients on the FDA’s website.

Micas are indicated in green. Matte pigments are in pink.

Lip-safe

Black iron oxide

Satin beige

Bright red

Satin black

Burgundy

Satin bronze

Glimmering brown blue

Satin brown blue

Glimmering white

Satin copper

Manganese violet

Satin gold

Metallic gold

Satin sienna

Metallic olive

Satin white

Metallic orange

Silver gold

Muted gold

Smoky blue

Muted silver

Smoky gold

Pale yellow green

Smoky green

Peach gold

Titanium dioxide

Pink blue

White gold

Red iron oxide

Yellow iron oxide

Salmon

Not Lip-safe

Chromium oxide green

Ultramarine blue

Hydrated chromium oxide green

Ultramarine pink

Nude silver

Ultramarine violet

Glimmering brown blue

Satin bronze

Glimmering white

Satin brown blue

Manganese violet

Satin copper

Metallic gold

Satin gold

Ruby Red

Yield: 1 (1⁄4-fluid-ounce) tube

This lip gloss is perfect for a night on the town. Combine with winged eyeliner and false eyelashes for a fabulous pinup girl look.

Looks great with

Skin undertone: Neutral

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the castor oil with the mica. Stir until thoroughly mixed, with no streaks.
  2. 2. Add the oxide and stir until thoroughly mixed, with no streaks.
  3. 3. Measure out the lip balm base into a heatproof container. Heat slowly in a microwave or on the stovetop until melted, stirring often.
  4. 4. Stir the mica-and-oil mixture into the melted lip balm base until fully combined, with no streaks.
  5. 5. Stand the lip gloss tube upright, then pour in the liquid using a plastic syringe or metal flavor injector. Fill to the rim, insert the lip gloss wand, and screw the lid on tight.
Nani is wearing

Eyes: Buttercream shadow; Fireflies eyeliner

Lips: Ruby Red, with Flurries in the center

Face: Nutmeg–Cream Puff foundation mixture (50:50); Suede bronzer; Vamp blush; Flurries highlighter

Foxy

Yield: 1 (1⁄4-fluid-ounce) bottle

This is a shimmery nude copper with hints of metallic silver that makes a gorgeous summer lip color for bronzed skin.

Looks great with

Skin undertone: Cool and neutral

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the castor oil with all of the micas. Stir until thoroughly mixed, with no streaks.
  2. 2. Measure out the lip balm base into a heatproof container. Heat slowly in a microwave or on the stovetop until melted, stirring often.
  3. 3. Stir the mica-and-oil mixture into the melted lip balm base until fully combined, with no streaks.
  4. 4. Stand the lip gloss tube upright, then pour in the liquid using a plastic syringe or metal flavor injector. Fill to the rim, insert the lip gloss wand, and screw the lid on tight.

Orange Sherbet

Yield: 1 (1⁄4-fluid-ounce) bottle

This pastel peach-orange lip gloss is perfect when paired with dark, smoky eye shadow. Its pale color is also fabulous for a 1960s mod makeup look.

Looks great with

Skin undertone: Warm

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the castor oil with the titanium dioxide and yellow and red iron oxides. Mix with a small whisk until fully combined.
  2. 2. Add all of the micas to the oil-oxide mixture and stir until there are no lumps.
  3. 3. Measure out the lip balm base into a heatproof container. Heat slowly in a microwave or on the stovetop until melted, stirring often.
  4. 4. Stir the colored oil mixture into the melted lip balm base until fully combined, with no streaks.
  5. 5. Stand the lip gloss tube upright, then pour in the liquid using a plastic syringe or metal flavor injector. Fill to the rim, insert the lip gloss wand, and screw the lid on tight.

Girl Crush

Yield: 1 (1⁄4-fluid-ounce) bottle

This lustrous nude golden-apricot lip gloss looks great day or night. Pair it with a pearlescent bronzer and pale eye shadow for a day look, or with dark eyeliner and smoky eye shadow for a night look.

Looks great with

Skin undertone: Warm

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Combine the castor oil with the micas. Stir until thoroughly mixed, with no streaks.
  2. 2. Measure out the lip balm base into a heatproof container. Heat slowly in a microwave or on the stovetop until melted, stirring often.
  3. 3. Stir the mica-and-oil mixture into the melted lip balm base until fully combined, with no streaks.
  4. 4. Stand the lip gloss tube upright, then pour in the liquid using a plastic syringe or metal flavor injector. Fill to the rim, insert the lip gloss wand, and screw the lid on tight.
Germaine is wearing

Eyes: Kitty-Cat, Nectar, and Heatherbelle shadows; Bonsai eyeliner

Lips: Girl Crush

Face: Eggnog foundation; Suede bronzer; Coral blush; Heatherbelle highlighter