WEEK 12: YOUR BEST FRIED CHICKEN
Classic Southern Buttermilk-Bathed Fried Chicken
Photography by Sarah Shatz
BY CHEF JAMES | SERVES 6
A&M: Chef James wrote that this recipe took nearly twenty years to develop, and we think it shows. The result is intensely flavorful and expertly spiced chicken with a crisp, dark skin reminiscent of parchment. The meat gets coated in a lively spice rub before being doused with buttermilk and hot sauce, which adds another layer of heat. The brine tenderizes the dark meat, and then it’s time for a quick dusting of flour and a date with the fryer.
SPICE RUB
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
6 chicken legs (legs and thighs separated)
BUTTERMILK BRINE
2 quarts buttermilk
¼ cup vinegar-based hot sauce, like Tabasco or Cholula
6 cups all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Peanut or canola oil for frying
- For the spice rub: In a medium bowl, mix all the dry spices. Add the chicken pieces and toss until well coated. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
- Pour enough buttermilk over the chicken to cover completely and stir in the hot sauce. Leave on the counter for 1 to 2 hours, or refrigerate up to 24 hours. Pour the chicken legs into a colander and allow the excess buttermilk to drain away.
- In a large bowl, mix the flour with salt and pepper to season well. One by one, add the chicken pieces, making sure they are thoroughly coated with flour on all sides. Leave them in the bowl with the excess flour while you wait for the oil to heat up.
- Fill a very large saucepan 4 inches deep with oil and heat over medium heat to 325°F. Grab each piece of chicken and slap it back and forth between your hands a few times to knock off the excess flour before slipping it into the oil. As the legs go into the oil, the temperature will drop. Turn the flame to high to increase the temperature to 350°F as the chicken cooks. Cook until golden brown and at least 160°F at the bone, 12 to 18 minutes. Remove to a rack to drain and season immediately with salt. Cool for a few minutes and serve.
Photography by Sarah Shatz
TIPS AND TECHNIQUES
Chef James said: “The trick to frying is starting with a lower temperature that increases through cooking to ensure perfect crispness and the right amount of browning.” He calls for heating the oil to 325°F and letting it gradually climb to 350°F, but we found that our chicken ended up a bit dark. For our second batch, we started at 300°F and maxed out at about 340°F, which produced a perfect mahogany crust. All fryers are different, though, so just keep an eye on the browning and adjust your temperature accordingly.
ABOUT THE COOK
James Briscione is a chef-instructor and writer living in New York City. He and his wife, Brooke Parkhurst, have just completed their first cookbook, appropriately titled Just Married and Cooking. Here’s their website of the same name: www.justmarriedandcooking.com.
His number one cooking tip: “Keep your knives sharp!”