Cancha
Andean Popcorn
My uncle Lucio on my mom’s side of the family was from the mountains, a man of pure Incan blood. In addition to Spanish, he spoke Quechua, the traditional language, and looked like a living Ekeko good luck charm, from his chiquito stature right down to his yankees, traditional shoes made from old tires. Mi tío never wavered from tradition, even when it came to snacks, and would only pop his maíz chulpe (large-kernel corn) straight up. In the Andes, herders stash the dried and toasted kernels in their packs as fuel for treks up the mountainside, and restaurants all over Peru serve the crunchy corn (the inspiration for American-style corn nuts) before a meal or as the traditional side for ceviche. It was one of the first traditional dishes he taught me how to make.
Be careful when you open the lid of the pot to check on the corn as it pops. The kernels sometimes pop right out of the pot and fly around the kitchen. (They can get very hot; the cancha kernels do soften slightly, but the crunchy outer shells initially hold on to the frying oil heat.) Like popcorn, I like mine on the saltier side.
- ½ cup canola or other vegetable oil
- 1½ cups dried maíz cancha, also known as chulpe corn
- 1 generous tablespoon coarse sea salt, or to taste
1 In a large, deep saucepot or Dutch oven with a lid, heat the oil over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until very hot. Add the corn, give the kernels a quick stir, and cover the pot with the lid. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook the cancha, shaking the pan every once in a while, for 3 to 4 minutes, until the corn begins to pop more vigorously and then noticeably slows. It should smell toasty.
2 Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for a minute or two (do not remove the lid). Partially open the lid away from you, like a shield, so the cancha doesn’t pop into your face. Be very careful, as the oil is very hot and the kernels can pop out of the pan. Most of the kernels should be dark golden brown. If they are still yellow, cover the pot and return it to the stove over high heat for about 1 minute more.
3 Let the cancha cool in the pot, covered, for a few minutes, then very carefully remove the lid and drain. Transfer the hot cancha to a heatproof medium bowl, sprinkle with the salt, and use a spoon to evenly distribute the salt all over the cancha. Let the cancha cool for at least 20 minutes, discard any burnt pieces, and season with more salt to taste. Serve immediately, or let cool completely cool and store in a food storage container or resealable plastic bag at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Spiced Cancha
Traditionally, cancha is seasoned only with salt. But for me, cancha is all about having fun, and like popcorn, the toasted kernels have that ability to take on almost any seasonings you toss their way. I sometimes add paprika and lime zest, with a sprinkle of cayenne for a more picante version, but play around with whatever spices you like. If you store the cancha after seasoning, some spices will settle to the bottom of the container or bag, so give it a good shake before serving to redistribute the seasonings.
To make spiced cancha: When you’ve moved the hot cancha to the bowl, stir in about ½ teaspoon sweet paprika and 1 teaspoon lime zest (or other seasonings) with the salt. When the cancha cools, season it with more salt to taste.