Beans, native to the Americas, have been part of the Peruvian diet for thousands of years, from ancient times through today.
Different varieties of the beans have been grown along the coast since at least 2000 bc, probably earlier. The two you probably see the most in Peruvian cooking are large, dried white lima beans and small, creamy-yellow canario beans.
In Peru, we call lima beans pallares. Pallar de la oreja is one of a few Spanish names for earlobes, a pretty obvious reference if you take a close look at the shape of a lima bean. When they were first exported to Europe, the boxes were supposedly labeled “Lima,” as in, from Lima, which was mistaken as the name of the beans. Some people also call them butter beans because of their starchy yet tender texture and mild but rich, almost buttery flavor. Today, you find lima beans all over Peru, but especially in the southern parts of the country, in both fresh green and dried forms. Limas are eaten on their own (sometimes pureed into a smooth soup), and because they hold up well when fried, they are often used in dishes like Tacu Tacu (rice and bean patties, page 211).
Canarios, also called mayocobas in other Latin American countries, are native to the Andes region. They grow very well, almost on their own, so you can usually find them at both the smallest outdoor village markets and in Lima supermarkets. They are so central to the Peruvian diet, you sometimes hear them simply referred to as frijoles Peruanos (Peruvian beans). The canario, canary, name comes from their almost creamy yellow color, like the bird (or, to my eye at least when dried, a somewhat beige canary). The beans both absorb other flavors well and tend to hold their shape. In Peru, people use them in all kinds of dishes, anything really, or just eat them on their own. They are my go-to bean for stews, cassoulets, or just any time I’m craving a big, satisfying bowl of beans.
I’ve focused here on lima and canario (mayocoba) beans, but you can use this method for any beans. Adjust the cooking time as needed so the beans are tender but still hold their shape. Like many of the beans you commonly find in the United States, including similar great northern beans, canarios are simple to cook. Limas are a little different. The mature white beans hold on to their firm texture better than many dried beans, so they usually don’t become fall-apart tender, and the cooking time varies greatly depending on the size of the beans. I’ve bought pallares grandes, or extra-large lima beans, that are the size of a quarter from Peruvian importers, and others from American companies called “large” that aren’t much bigger than a penny.
1 Combine the beans, aromatic vegetables, and bay leaf in a large Dutch oven or stockpot, cover the beans with a good 3 inches of water, and bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook the beans, uncovered, until tender. The cooking time will vary depending on the type and freshness of beans. (Unlike other beans, limas will retain a slightly firm texture.) If the cooking liquid ever recedes below the beans, add enough water to cover them by about 1 inch, and occasionally skim off the white foam that accumulates on top of the liquid. Season the cooked beans with the salt.
2 Allow the beans to cool completely in their cooking liquid, then fish out and discard the aromatic vegetables and bay leaf. If you’d like a creamier texture, scoop up about 1 cup each of the beans and their cooking liquid, puree them in a blender until smooth, then stir them back into the beans. Serve the beans right away, or let cool completely, cover, and refrigerate the beans in their cooking liquid for up to 5 days.
Makes 6 to 7 cups