Risotto de Trigo

Barley Risotto with Mushrooms

I don’t know of a risotto tradition in Peru, but I am sure there are some Italian Peruvians who could point out dozens of examples for me. Barley, a grain that arrived with the Conquistadors, is one of the main ingredients in emolientes, the herbal tea remedies going back to the Spanish occupation that you still find on the streets of Lima today (see page 30). Barley has a nutty flavor and chewy texture that works really well in a risotto, and together with the mushrooms, you get an intensely flavored dish that almost tastes meaty, even though it’s vegetarian.

I use a mix of Japanese mushrooms like oyster mushrooms and shimeji, but you can use any mushrooms; portobellos and shiitakes will give the risotto an even meatier mushroom flavor. The sour cream is like gravy—you probably don’t need it, but it makes the dish richer. Whole-grain barley soaked overnight cooks up more quickly. If you substitute pearl barley, cook it according to the package directions.

1 Put the barley in a large Dutch oven or soup pot, add enough water to cover by a solid 3 inches, and bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook the barley, uncovered, until tender, about 35 minutes, give or take 15 minutes, as whole-grain barley can be a little unpredictable. Drain the barley.

2 Heat the olive oil in a medium Dutch oven or saucepan over medium-high heat until hot, a good 2 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until the vegetables begin to soften, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the ají amarillo paste, then the mushrooms, and sauté until the mushrooms start to shrink and darken, about 3 minutes. Stir in 1 cup of the broth and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer the mushrooms until tender, a few minutes more (depending on their size). Stir in the barley and bring the broth to a simmer, uncovered. Cook, stirring often, until the barley soaks up most of the broth. Stir in the remaining broth, if needed, so the risotto looks very juicy.

3 Just before serving, stir in the sour cream (if using) and about two-thirds of the Parmesan. Season the risotto with salt and pepper, and pile it into a serving dish or individual bowls. Sprinkle the remaining Parmesan on top, and serve inmediatamente.

Mushroom Broth

Makes about 3 generous cups

Dried mushrooms always make a good broth, but I usually save the stems of fresh mushrooms, or any whole mushrooms that aren’t so good looking, to make broth. They make a lighter broth with a more subtle mushroom flavor that doesn’t compete with whatever else you have going on in a dish.

Use white wine to deglaze the pan, if you have it, and the broth will taste even better. If my mom ever made anything like this, she’d definitely save the simmered mushrooms and vegetables to pile on top of steamed rice with a little of the broth and soy sauce. Since these aren’t cooked very long, they still retain some really good flavor.

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • ½ red or white onion, coarsely chopped
  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
  • 1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
  • 6 cloves garlic
  • 5 to 6 ounces mushrooms or stems, any variety or a mix, cut into chunks (about 3 cups)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • A splash of white wine, if you have it
  • 1 leafy sprig of fresh thyme
  • 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste

1 Heat the olive oil and butter in a large Dutch oven or saucepan over medium-high heat until just hot, about 1 minute. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and sauté until the vegetables begin to soften, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic, mushrooms, and bay leaf and sauté until the mushrooms begin to color and slightly soften, 3 to 4 minutes. They don’t need to be fully softened, like you would when serving them.

2 Deglaze the pan with a splash of white wine or water and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the thyme and pour in 4 cups water. Bring the water to a boil, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook the broth for 25 minutes. Set the broth aside until cool enough to handle, or better still, let it cool completely. Strain out the vegetables and herbs, discard them, and season the broth with the salt. If not using immediately, let cool completely, cover, and refrigerate the broth for up to 5 days, or freeze for up to 3 months in two batches (about 1½ cups each) so you’re ready to go with the right amount of broth whenever you need it.