Torta de Queso Con Ají

Ají Amarillo Cheesecake

The first time I tasted an American-style cheesecake, it was at a famous national chain restaurant known for the cake. I’d never tasted anything like it. I have to admit, I thought it was pretty great, if too sweet. I started experimenting with a version that I could serve at events—cheesecakes are often a hit at parties, judging by the number of requests I get.

In this Peruvian-style version, the sugar is so subtle, the cake is almost savory. I think that’s why it works so well with the spicy ají amarillo peppers, which are pretty tame in this cake, so you can add a sauce without going into sugar or spice overdrive. Warm up a good-quality jar of jam, maybe some orange marmalade, and stir in a teaspoon of ají amarillo paste.

I realize I wasn’t born in the land of cheesecakes, but I don’t understand why some bakers get worked up about cheesecakes that crack in the center. To me, those cracks look like the tierra, earth, and are part of the cake’s beauty. It’s also a sign that the cream cheese and eggs where whipped enough to keep the cake from becoming too dense.

Crust

• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the pan
• 20 individual graham cracker squares, finely ground in a food processor (about 1¾ cups)
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• Pinch of kosher salt

Filling

• 4 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, at room temperature
• 2 tablespoons ají amarillo paste, store-bought or homemade (see page 34), or to taste
• 1¼ cups sugar
• ⅓ cup heavy cream
• Zest of 1 medium orange
• 5 large eggs

1 To make the crust, preheat the oven to 375°F and place a rack in the middle. Rub a little butter on the bottom and up the sides, all the way to the rim, of a 9-inch spingform pan. Cut a piece of parchment to fit the bottom, place it in the pan, and lightly butter the top.

2 Mix together the butter, graham cracker crumbs, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. Press the cracker mixture firmly into the bottom and about 1 inch up the sides of the pan with your hands. Be sure to press into the corners. Bake the crust for 10 minutes and set aside. The crumbs won’t color much, mainly just on the edges.

3 Meanwhile, to make the filling, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese, ají amarillo paste, and sugar mix on medium speed until fluffy, like soft-serve ice cream, about 5 minutes. Turn off the mixer, add the cream and orange zest, and mix on the lowest speed for a few seconds (to keep the cream from splashing out of the bowl). Raise the speed to medium-low and whip for another minute, then add the eggs, one at a time, waiting until each is well incorporated before adding the next. Scape down the sides of the bowl and mix the filling for 30 seconds more.

4 Pour the cream cheese filling into the prepared crust (it will come almost all the way to the top) and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F and bake for 1 hour. The edges should be golden brown, but the cake should still be jiggly when you gently shake the pan. Crack the oven door about 2 inches and leave the cake in the oven for 15 minutes more.

5 Transfer the cake to a baking rack to cool completely, about 3 hours. Wrap the cake pan in plastic wrap and refrigerate the cake for at least 8 hours or overnight, or up to 1 week. To serve, remove the sides of the springform pan and cut the cake into wedges. Serve the cake with your favorite fruit sauce, or a lightly ají-spiced marmalade, if you’d like.