Transport

Getting there

By air

Despite the rush of recent development, Myanmar is still poorly connected to international air networks. There are no direct flights from Europe or North America, meaning that you’ll have to change either at Doha in Qatar or somewhere in Asia (Bangkok is most convenient, and there are also regular connections via Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo and Seoul). Most visitors fly into Yangon’s Mingaladon Airport (www.yangonairportonline.com), although there are also increasing numbers of international flights to Mandalay and Naypyitaw.

Air Asia

Park Royal Hotel, 33 Alanpya Pagoda Road, Yangon.

Tel: 01 251 885; www.airasia.com

Air China

Yangon International Hotel, cnr Pyay and Kaba Aye Pagoda roads, Yangon.

Tel: 01 655882; www.airchina.com

Air India

75 Shwebontha St, Yangon.

Tel: 01 371 864; www.airindia.in

Bangkok Airways

Sakura Tower 339, Bogyoke Aung San Road, Yangon.

Tel: 01 255 122; www.bangkokair.com

Malaysia Airlines

335-357 Bogyoke Aung San Road (next to Central Hotel), Yangon. Tel: 01 241 007; www.malaysiaairlines.com

Myanmar Airways International

Sakura Tower, 339 Bogyoke Aung San Road, Yangon.

Tel: 01 225 260; www.maiair.com

Qatar Airways

Parkroyal Yangon Hotel, 33 Alanpya Pagoda Rd.

Tel: 01 250 388; www.qatarairways.com

Silk Air

Sakura Tower, 339 Bogyoke Aung San Road, Yangon.

Tel: 01 225 287; www.silkair.com

Thai Airways

Sakura Tower, 339 Bogyoke Aung San Road, Yangon. Tel: 01 255 499

Vietnam Airlines

Sakura Tower, 339 Bogyoke Aung San Road, Yangon.

Tel: 01 255 066; www.vietnamairlines.com

Overland

Travelling overland into Myanmar is now much easier following the reopening in 2013 of four border crossings between Myanmar and Thailand, although some are still subject to restrictions. In the far south, there are border crossings between the port town of Kawthaung and Ranong in southern Thailand, and (although it’s difficult to reach) between Htee Kee in Myanmar and Phu Nam Ron in Thailand. Further north, visitors can cross between Mae Sot and Myawaddy in Kayin State, and between Mae Sai and Tachileik in southern Shan State (although, bizarrely, travellers entering at Tachileik are not permitted to travel beyond Kengtung). There’s also a fifth crossing at Three Pagodas Pass between Sangkhlaburi and Payathonzu, although you’re only allowed to cross into Myanmar for a single day.

There’s also one overland crossing from China, via Kunming in Yunnan Province and entering Myanmar at the Ruili–Muse border crossing, from where you can continue on to Lashio (5 hours further south).

Note that information about border crossings is highly susceptible to change and should be always be checked in advance of travel with a reputable agent in Myanmar, Thailand or China.

Getting around

Much of Myanmar is now completely open to foreign tourists, although some areas (mainly in the east and far north) still require a permit to visit. Exploring Myanmar on a pre-organised tour is a convenient option, saving you the hassle of dealing with the country’s rudimentary and antiquated transport infrastructure – although equally it takes much of the adventure out a visit, as well as the chance to rub shoulders with ordinary Burmese during your journeys. Trains and buses will get you to most parts of the country, eventually, although given the parlous state of Myanmar’s roads and railways, most travellers take at least a couple of internal flights using the country’s well-developed domestic air network.

From the airport

On arrival at Yangon-Mingaladon Airport, 19km (12 miles) north of the downtown area. Taxis can be arranged through one of the taxi booking counters; fares (payable in either dollars or kyat) cost $7 to downtown from the international terminal or $8 from the domestic terminal; some hotels and guesthouses offer free airport transfers as part of the room rate

By air

Domestic air services have flourished in Myanmar, thanks to the country’s size and rudimentary road and rail infrastructure Around forty regional airports can be found across the country, with a growing number of operators and several flights daily to more popular destinations. Flights offer an easy way of getting between Yangon and Mandalay, Nyaung U (for Bagan) and Heho (for Inle Lake), while some other destinations which are either difficult or impossible to reach by road can also be easily accessed by air. Thandwe (for Ngapali Beach), for example, is just forty minutes by air from Yangon, compared to a gruelling sixteen hours-plus on the bus, or Sittwe (for Mrauk U), which is often cut off by land entirely due to unrest in Rakhine State. Bear in mind that the safety records of the country’s domestic airlines are poor, however, with several crashes in recent years (although, mercifully, with just a single fatality). In addition, all airlines are also owned by government-linked businesses, meaning that most of the money for your ticket will most likely end up in pockets of the military regime, or their corporate cronies.

It generally works out cheaper to book your tickets through an agent in Myanmar rather than direct with the airline. As alternative to individual tickets, Air Mandalay’s good-value Discover Myanmar Pass buys you four flights between Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and Heho (Inle) for $370.

Domestic airlines

Air Bagan

56 Shwe Taung Gyar Street, Bahan, Yangon.

Tel: 01 513 422; www.airbagan.com

Air KBZ

33-49 Corner of Bank Street & Maha Bandoola Garden Street, Kyauktada, Yangon.

Tel: 01 373 766; www.airkbz.com

Air Mandalay

146 Dhammazedi Road, Bahan, Yangon.

Tel: 01 525 488; www.airmandalay.com

Asian Wings

34 Shwe Taung Gyar Street, Bahan, Yangon.

Tel: 01 516 654; www.asianwingsairways.com

Golden Myanmar Airlines

Ground Floor, Sayar San Plaza, New University Ave, Bahan, Yangon.

Tel: 01 533272; www.gmairlines.com

Myanmar Airways

Sakura Tower, 339 Bogyoke Aung San Road, Yangon.

Tel: 01 255 260; www.maiair.com

Yangon Airways

No.166, Level 5 MMB Tower, Upper Pansodan Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt, Yangon.

Tel: 01 383100.

By river and sea

With over 8,000km (5,000 miles) of navigable rivers and canals, boats have traditionally served as the most important means of transporting people and goods around the country. Gradual improvements in other forms of transport are slowly eroding the importance of water-borne traffic, although luxury Ayeyarwady and Chindwin River cruises remain popular amongst well-heeled visitors.

Rivers

Myanmar has more than 5000km (3000 miles) of navigable river. Even at the height of summer, when water levels are lowest, it’s possible to travel all the way from the Delta to Bhamo in the north of the country by ferry along the Ayeyarwady, and in the monsoons you can even reach Myitkyina. Other rivers serving as major transport arteries include the Chindwin, which joins the Ayeyarwady southwest of Mandalay, and the Thandlin (Salween), in the far southeast.

In colonial times, the redoubtable Irrawaddy Flotilla Company, or IFC, plied the country’s waterways with its elegant, double-decker river steamers. A handful of these wonderful old tubs survive (some have been converted into luxury cruisers; see below), but nowadays most of Myanmar’s ferry network comes under the jurisdiction of the government-owned Inland Water Transport (www.iwt.gov.mm), and its fleet of around 350 boats.

Taking to the water on a package tour, you’re more likely to be travelling on a luxury cruiser. These vessels tend to be beautifully restored antique steamers, or else newly built replicas, complete with timber-walled cabins furnished in high colonial style, with sun decks, bars and restaurants. Trips typically last from five to around 13 nights, and include plenty of sightseeing excursions to towns and other places of interest along the way.

Popular river routes

The most travelled river route for tourists is the stretch of the Ayeyarwady between Mandalay and Bagan. A twice-weekly government ferry www.iwt.gov.mm) shuttles back and forth between Mandalay and Bagan, leaving at around 7am and arriving during the afternoon of the next day. You’ll have to sleep on the deck, sharing open quarters with monks, soldiers, nursing mothers, chicken and fruit baskets. Make sure to take a mosquito netting and repellent, plus a blanket or sleeping bag.

Much faster and more comfortable trips are offered by various private operators, leaving at around 6am and taking around 10–12 hours to get from Mandalay to Bagan (or vice versa). The main operators are Malikha River Cruises (www.malikha-rivercruises.com) and Shwe Keinnery (www.nmaihka.com); slightly more expensive trips are offered by the Myanmar Golden River Group (MGRG; www.mgrgexpress.com).

For a classic (albeit pricey) Burmese journey, book yourself on to one of the luxury cruises along the Ayeyarwady and/or the connecting Chindwin Rivers, sailing in lavishly appointed vessels boasting a/c cabins, pools and top-notch restaurants (although bear in mind that this isn’t a particularly ethical form of travel given that much of your money will end up in the pockets of government-linked businesses). Itineraries last from between three to sixteen days, with longer cruises travelling north from Mandalay via the Ayeyarwady’s third and second defiles to Bhamo through a constantly changing riverscape. The ultimate river adventure trip, however, is the 20-night cruise up the untamed Chindwin, one of Myanmar’s most scenic rivers, to the remote northern outpost of Homalin. Major operators including Belmond (www.belmond.com), Pandaw (www.pandaw.com) and Paukan (www.paukan.com). Basic government ferries also cover the routes north along the Ayewarwady to Bhamo and up the Chindwin to Homalin.

Further south, basic government ferries travel (very slowly) south of Bagan to Pyay, taking two or three days to complete the journey; and also from Yangon to Myaungmya, near Pathein in the Delta (for details, see www.iwt.gov.mm). Government and private ferries also make the enjoyable trip (4–7hr) along the Kaladan River between Sittwe and Mrauk U, and down the coast from Sittwe to Taunggok (from where you can continue to Ngapali Beach). Further south, private boats make the beautiful trip down the Thanlwin from Mawlamyine to Hpa-An, as well as the journey down the coast of Tanintharyi. Memorable short boat trips include the one-hour cruise up the Ayeyardwady from Mandalay to Mingun, and the ten-minute hop across the Yangon River to Dalah, whisking you miraculously from the hustle and bustle of downtown Yangon to the rural Delta in virtually the blink of an eye.

By train

Myanmar Railways comprises 5,402km (3,357 miles) of track, with Yangon’s Central Railway Station as its hub. While the main Yangon–Mandalay line is reasonably quick, clean and efficient, the same can’t be said of the rest of the network. Rolling stock ranges from shabby to decrepit and long delays are frequent. That said, if you’re not in a rush, travelling by rail in Myanmar has its pleasures and offers an unrivalled chance to rub shoulders with local Burmese. If time is short, it’s better to take the bus, or fly.

There are three classes: Upper (reclining seats); First (wooden slatted seats with padded leatherette bottoms); and Ordinary (bare slatted seats). Some services between Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and Myitkina also have sleeper carriages – “standard” and “special” – with individual two- and four-bed compartments; “special” sleeper compartments come with their own private toilet and sitting area. Whichever class you’re in, expect a noisy ride, and bring a fleece as it can get cold at night in winter.

Foreigners can purchase their tickets through Myanmar Travels & Tours (For more information, click here) or direct at the railway station they’re leaving from, advisably 24 hours ahead of departure.

Yangon to Mandalay

This is the country’s premier line, boasting reasonably clean and comfortable rolling stock, though even here journeys can be hot and sticky, schedules erratic and delays frequent. There are three services daily in each direction, calling at Bago, Taungoo, Naypyidaw and Thazi and taking around fifteen hours to complete the journey. For the latest timetable info, photos comparing classes and trip reports, check www.seat61.com.

From Mandalay, there are train connections to the hill station of Pyin U-Lwin (Maymyo), 61km (38 miles) east, from where you can continue across the famous Gokteik viaduct to Kyaukme and Lashio. Other useful rail connections include the following:

Yangon to Bagan

Bagan can be reached by train, departing Yangon daily at 4pm. The journey takes about 18 hours, compared to just an hour by plane.

Yangon to Kyaiktiyo and Mawlamyine

The main railway line south of Yangon heads down into Mon State via Bago to Kyaiktiyo (jumping-off point for visit to the famous Golden Rock Pagoda) and on to the historic town of Mawlamyine (Moulmein). There are three departures daily in each direction, taking roughly four to five hours to Kyaiktiyo, and around ten to Maylamyine. One service daily continues on to Dawei, in the far south, taking around 24 hours.

Mandalay to Myitkyina

The trip between Mandalay and Myitkyina is a bumpy one through rambling countryside that’s been heavily logged but remains beautiful. Two trains cover the route daily, leaving at 4.30am and 1pm, and taking 16 to 22 hours to complete the journey. En route the train stops at Naba (for Katha, an Ayeryarwady embarkation point for river trips to Bhamo or Mandalay) and Hopin (for Indawgyi Lake).

By bus

Travelling by bus is generally faster and more reliable than taking the train, although still far from speedy, mainly due to the state of the country’s main roads, most of which are narrow and congested, with trucks, cars, cyclists, pedestrians and livestock all fighting for space. Myriad private companies operate buses on different routes, along with government-run services. Vehicles themselves range from antiquated rustbuckets, stuffed with as many passengers as they can possibly squeeze in, through to the deluxe a/c express services which ply the main inter-city routes. All long-distance buses stop every two or three hours for food and drink breaks at roadside cafés.

Bus stations in larger cities are often located some way out of the centre of town. In Yangon, the two main terminals are Hlaing Thar Yar terminal (northwest of the city; services to the Delta); and Aung Mingalar terminal (north of the city; all other services), both of which are around 20km from the centre. Likewise in Mandalay, where departures are split between Kwe Se Kan (Main) Station (10km south of the centre; serving all destinations south) and Pyi Gyi Mat Station (3km east of the centre; for all destinations to the north-east). It’s generally easiest to buy tickets through your hotel, guesthouse or a local travel agents – you may pay a dollar or two in commission but will save the bother of traipsing out to the bus station and buying tickets in person from the relevant bus company office.

Pick-up trucks

Pick-up trucks (kaa) – similar to the Thai songthaew – are often found on less-travelled routes where there’s no bus service (or where bus services are infrequent). Cheap, cheerful and usually horrible uncomfortable, they don’t follow a set schedule, simply leavingonce the maximum number of passengers and cargo possible has been crammed into every last bit of available space.

Private transport: trishaws and taxis

“Motorbike taxis” (where the passenger rides pillion behind the driver) are usually the fastest – if not the most relaxing – way of getting around the country’s towns and cities. Slower but slightly more comfortable are motorised three-wheelers (thoun bein; effectively a motorbike with a kind of trailer attached, sometimes described as a “rickshaw”, although it’s completely unlike rickshaws found in India and Thailand). Slowest but most atmospheric are bicycle trishaws (sai-kaa) All three are are usually widely available and cheap (except in Yangon and Mandalay, where taxis have taken over), generally charging around$1 for shorter journeys around town.

Taxis are ubiquitous and inexpensive in all the major cities, where they stand in ranks outside the main hotels and transport hubs. Meters rarely work, but few trips across town cost more than K3000–5000 ($3–5). For longer day trips out of town, expect to pay $50–60, depending on the age and condition of the vehicle.

Car and driver

Travelling independently, the easiest way to get around is to hire your own car and driver (paperwork and local road conditions mean that virtually no tourists drive themselves). Tourist cars tend to be no more than two or three years old and are usually air-conditioned. Expect to pay around $100 per day, including petrol, the driver’s fee and expenses.