Explorer’s Guide Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket 11E

FALMOUTH & WOODS HOLE

The Cape’s second largest town, Falmouth has more shore and coastline than any other town on the Cape. In fact, it has 14 harbors, 12 miles of public beaches, and more than 30 ponds. Saltwater inlets reach deep into the southern coastline, like fjords—only without the mountains. Buzzards Bay laps at the western shores of quiet North and West Falmouth and bustling Woods Hole. Falmouth’s eight distinctive villages accommodate about 101,000 summer people, which about triples the year-round population of 33,000.

The villages differ widely in character. Quiet, restful lanes and residents who keep to themselves characterize Sippewissett and both North and West Falmouth. The West Falmouth Harbor (off wooded, scenic Route 28A) is tranquil and placid, particularly at sunset. Although Falmouth Heights is known for its opulent, turn-of-the-20th-century shingled houses on Vineyard Sound, its beach is a popular gathering spot for 20-somethings—playing volleyball, sunbathing, flying kites, and enjoying the relatively warm water and seaside condos that line Grand Avenue and Menauhant Road. Falmouth Heights has early ties to the Kennedys: Rose Fitzgerald was vacationing here with her family when Joe Kennedy came calling.

East Falmouth is a largely residential area. There are several motels and grand year-round and summer homes lining the inlets of Green Pond, Bourne’s Pond, and Waquoit Bay. Historic Danville was once home to whaling-ship captains and has a strong Portuguese and Cape Verdean fishing community and farming heritage.

The center of Falmouth, with plentiful shops and eateries, is busy year-round. And the village common, picture-perfect with historic houses (converted to beautiful bed & breakfasts) encircling the tidy green space, is well worth a stroll. Falmouth’s Inner Harbor is awash with restaurants, boatyards, a colorful marina, and moderate nightlife. Two passenger ferries to Martha’s Vineyard operate from here.

Four miles south of Falmouth, Woods Hole is more than just a terminus for the Steamship Authority auto and passenger ferries to the Vineyard. It is also home to three major scientific institutions: the National Marine Fisheries Service (“the Fisheries”), Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (or WHOI, pronounced hooey), and the Marine Biological Laboratory (MBL).

Woods Hole, named for the “hole” or passage between Penzance Point and Nonamesset Island, was the site of the first documented European landing in the New World. Bartholomew Gosnold arrived here from Falmouth, England, in 1602.

GUIDANCE Images Falmouth Chamber of Commerce (508-548-8500; falmouthchamber.com and woodshole.com), 20 Academy Lane, Falmouth. This knowledgeable office also has Woods Hole information, good foldout street maps, and a historical walking-tour brochure.

GETTING THERE By car: Via Route 28 South, Falmouth is 15 miles from the Bourne Bridge and 20 miles from the Sagamore Bridge. Route 28 turns into Main Street. In northern Falmouth, Route 28A parallels Route 28 and is much more scenic. Route 28 leads directly to Locust Street and Woods Hole Road for Woods Hole.

FALMOUTH PUBLIC LIBRARY

The directional signposts for Route 28 are a tad confusing from this point on. Although Hyannis and Chatham are east of Falmouth, the signpost from Falmouth to Chatham says Route 28 South. This is because Route 28 originates in Bourne and does indeed head south to Falmouth before jogging east.

By bus: Bonanza/Peter Pan (888-751-8800; peterpanbus.com) has service to Falmouth (Peter Pan bus terminal) and Woods Hole (Steamship Authority) from New York, Providence, Connecticut, western Massachusetts, and Boston. Some Logan Airport buses connect with Vineyard ferries, although the ferry won’t wait for a late bus. The round-trip fare from Boston to Woods Hole is $$$$$.

GETTING AROUND Cape Cod Regional Transit Authority (508-385-1430; capecodtransit.org), whose Whoosh trolleys are equipped with bike racks, travels between Falmouth and Woods Hole. Tourists can hop on and off downtown and at shops and beaches; flag it down when you see it. The trolley operates about late May to early September; $. Look for schedules and route maps at the chamber, the Steamship Authority, and some local shops. Parking is extremely limited in Woods Hole, and roads are congested, so use this service if you’re just visiting for the afternoon.

WHOOSH TROLLEY

A PERFECT DAY IN FALMOUTH

8:00	Down a double espresso at “Coffee O” with other groove-meisters.
8:45	Appreciate one person’s generosity at the waterfront Spohr Gardens.
10:00	Find the Punch Bowl kettle pond at Beebe Woods and take a dip.
11:45	Learn a little something at the Museums on the Green.
1:00	Enjoy lunch from the harborfront Clam Shack.
2:30	Kayak around Waquoit Bay and over to Washburn Island.
6:00	Drive the back roads to Quissett Harbor and walk around the Knob.
8:00	Enjoy a fab meal at The Glass Onion.
10:00	Sing along at Liam Maguire’s Irish Pub.

GETTING TO MARTHA’S VINEYARD There is year-round automobile and passenger ferry service to Martha’s Vineyard from Woods Hole; there are two seasonal passenger ferry services to the Vineyard from Falmouth Harbor. See Getting There in “Martha’s Vineyard.”

MEDIA The Falmouth Enterprise (508-548-4700; capenews.net), 50 Depot Avenue, Falmouth, published every Tuesday and Friday, has local news and gossip.

The Falmouth Visitor (508-548-3047; falmouthvisitor.com), geared toward repeat and long-term visitors, is a great and free publication that gets beneath Falmouth’s outer shell.

PUBLIC RESTROOMS In Falmouth: Chamber of Commerce on Academy Lane; Peg Noonan Park on Main Street; and the library.

In Woods Hole: At the Steamship Authority.

PUBLIC LIBRARIES The area has multiple branches (falmouthpubliclibrary.org), but the biggest and downright greatest is Falmouth Public Library (508-457-2555), 300 Main Street.

Woods Hole Public Library (508-548-8961; woodsholepubliclibrary.org), 581 Woods Hole Road, Woods Hole. As you might imagine, there are lots of scientists and NPR Science Friday types at this branch.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Falmouth Hospital (508-548-5300; capecodhealth.org), 100 Ter Heun Drive (off Route 28), Falmouth.

A PERFECT DAY IN WOODS HOLE

8:30	Enjoy pastry and java from Pie in the Sky.
9:30	Watch the Eel Pond drawbridge go up and down.
9:45	Support local artists at Woods Hole Handworks.
10:30	Take a walking tour with WHOI or MBL.
12:30	Dine waterfront at Water Street Kitchen.
2:30	Contemplate quietude from St. Mary’s Garden after climbing to the top of St. Joseph’s Bell Tower.
4:00	Ride the Shining Sea Bike Path out to Nobska Light and beyond.
6:30	Head back to Falmouth for dinner or enjoy a waterfront picnic here.

To See

IN FALMOUTH

Village Green. The green is bordered by Colonial, Federal, Italianate, and Greek Revival homes, many built for wealthy ship captains and then converted to B&Bs. Designated as public land in 1749 and now on the National Register of Historic Places, this large triangle of grass is enclosed by a white fence, surely as pastoral a sight today as it was more than 250 years ago. It’s not difficult to imagine local militiamen practicing marches and drills, and townspeople grazing horses—in fact, a local militia reenacts maneuvers on July Fourth. Walking tours around the green and old cemetery depart June through October on Tuesday and Thursday mornings from the Hallett Barn Visitor Center at the Falmouth Historical Society. The tour returns by a secret back route. Call 508-548-4857 to make the recommended reservations. $.

First Congregational Church, 68 Main Street, on the green. This quintessential New England church—with its high steeple and crisp white lines—is graced by a bell (which still rings) commissioned by Paul Revere. The receipt for the bell—from 1796—is on display; the inscription on the bell reads: THE LIVING TO THE CHURCH I CALL, AND TO THE GRAVE I SUMMON ALL. Today’s church was built on the foundations of the 1796 church.

Museums on the Green (508-548-4857; falmouthhistoricalsociety.org), 55–65 Palmer Avenue, just off the village green. Open mid-May to early October; archives open by appointment year-round. Operated by the Falmouth Historical Society. The Conant House (a circa-1760 structure) contains sailors’ valentines, scrimshaw, and old tools. One room honors Katharine Lee Bates, a Wellesley College professor and author of the lyrics for “America the Beautiful,” who was born nearby in 1859 at 16 Main Street (not open to the public). I suspect most Falmouth residents would lend support to the grassroots movement in the United States to change the national anthem from “The Star-Spangled Banner” to Bates’s easier-to-sing, less militaristic song.

Next door, look for a formal Colonial-style garden and a cannon from HMS Nimrod; the replicated 100-year-old Hallett Barn, with an educational center with hands-on exhibits; and the late-18th-century Julia Wood House, home to Dr. Francis Wicks, known for his work with smallpox inoculations. $. If it’s a Friday during July and August and your pod constitutes a family, head here for tailor-made, well-done, hands-on history activities.

The Dome (woodsholemuseum.org), Woods Hole Road, Woods Hole. When Buckminster Fuller was teaching at MIT, he patented the geodesic dome design in 1954. One of his domes, which epitomizes doing more with less, is just north of town.

Cape Cod Winery (508-457-5592; capecodwinery.com), 4 Oxbow Road, East Falmouth. Open early May to mid-December. Weekend tours in July and August. Come for tastings of fruity wines, a blanc de blancs blend, cabernet, pinot grigio, merlot, and more. During harvest time in late September and early October, visitors may pick grapes in exchange for a gift certificate redeemable for that particular vintage. Once the wine is bottled, it includes a custom label that indicates the names of the harvesters.

See also Highfield Hall and Bourne Farm, both under Green Space.

IN WOODS HOLE

Woods Hole Science Aquarium (508-495-2001; aquarium.nefsc.noaa.gov), Water Street. When it opened in 1871, this was the first aquarium in the country. Today it’s a fun place to learn about slippery fish, living shellfish (rather than the empty shells we’re all accustomed to seeing), and other lesser-known creatures of the deep. Visitors delight in observing and interacting with lobsters, hermit crabs, and other crawling sea critters in a several tanks, including two touch tanks, a seal pool (feedings at 11 AM and 4 PM most days), and shallow pools of icy-cold bubbling seawater.

Images Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI) and Ocean Science Exhibit Center (508-289-2663; 508-289-2252 for tour reservations; whoi.edu), 15 School Street. Open mid-April through December. A Rockefeller grant of $2.5 million got WHOI off the ground in 1930, and since then its annual budget has grown to about $220 million. It is the largest independent oceanography lab in the country. About 1,000 students and researchers from all over the world are employed here year-round. During World War II, WHOI worked on underwater explosives and submarine detection. Today scientists study climate issues, undersea volcanoes, ocean and coastal pollution, deep-sea robotics and acoustics, and large and small marine life. Relatively unpolluted waters and a deep harbor make Woods Hole an ideal location for this work

WOODS HOLE SCIENCE AQUARIUM

WOODS HOLE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTE

WHOI buildings cover 200 acres. One-hour guided walking tours are offered weekdays at 10:30 AM and 1:30 PM during July and August. The tour covers a lot of ground and is geared to adults and teenagers. The small exhibit center shows excellent videos and has an interactive display with marine-mammal sounds and a fascinating display of Alvin, the tiny submarine that allowed WHOI researchers to explore and photograph the Titanic in 1986. While you’re at it, don’t miss the exhibit on the Titanic. $; walking tour free, but reservations required.

Marine Biological Laboratory (MBL) (508-289-7623 tour reservations; mbl.edu), 127 Water Street. Tours, weekdays from late June through August, are very popular and restricted in size, so reservations are required at least a week in advance. Visitor center open May through October. Founded in 1888 as “a nonprofit institution devoted to research and education in basic biology,” the MBL, affiliated with the University of Chicago, studies more than fish. It studies life at its most basic level, with an eye toward answering the question, “What is life?” Marine creatures tend to be some of the most useful animals in that quest. MBL scientists (including 49 Nobel laureates over the years) study the problems of infertility, hypertension, Alzheimer’s, AIDS, and other diseases. It’s not hyperbole to say there’s no other institution or academy like it in the world. Guides lead excellent tours that include a video about what goes on at the MBL. History buffs will be interested to note that one of the MBL’s granite buildings was a former factory that made candles with spermaceti (whale oil).

St. Joseph’s Bell Tower, Millfield Street (north shore of Eel Pond). To encourage his colleagues not to become too caught up in the earthly details of their work and lose their faith in the divine, an MBL student designed this pink-granite Romanesque bell tower in 1929. He arranged for its two bells to ring twice a day to remind the scientists and townspeople of a higher power. (One bell is named for Gregor Mendel, the 19th-century botanist, the other for Louis Pasteur.) Nowadays the bells ring three times: at 7 AM, noon, and 6 PM. But really, do we need that much more reminding these days? The meticulously maintained St. Mary’s Garden surrounds the tower with flowers, herbs, a bench, and a few chairs. Right on the harbor, this is one of the most restful places in the entire area.

Church of the Messiah (508-548-2145; churchofthemessiahwoodshole.org), 22 Church Street. Nine Nobel Prize winners are buried in the churchyard. This 1888 stone Episcopal church is admired by visiting scientists, tourists, and townsfolk alike. The herb meditation garden is a treasure. Classical music lovers will enjoy the “noontunes” concert series on Wednesdays in July.

Images Images Woods Hole Historical Museum (508-548-7270; woodsholemuseum.org), 579 Woods Hole Road. Museum open mid-June to September; archives open year-round by appointment. This is a little gem. Located at the end of Woods Hole Road, near the Woods Hole Library, this museum has two galleries with changing exhibits of local historical interest. It also maintains a good library on maritime subjects, more than 500 local oral histories, and a scale model of Woods Hole in the late 1800s. Dr. Yale’s actual 1890s workshop is in a separate building. The adjacent Swift Barn exhibits small historic boats that plied these local waters long ago. Inquire about a free 60-minute walking tour around Eel Pond once weekly in July and August. And if you’re around on Saturday mornings, drop by to watch volunteers help restore boats in the collection.

WOODS HOLE HISTORICAL COLLECTION

To Do

BASEBALL Fuller Field, 790 Main Street, Falmouth. The Commodores, one of 10 teams in the Cape Cod Baseball League, play in July and August. Check online (falmouthcommodores.com) for schedules and team information.

BICYCLING & RENTALS Corner Cycle (508-540-4195; cornercycle.com), 115 Palmer Avenue, Falmouth, rents a variety of bicycles. It’s a couple of hundred yards from the Shining Sea Bike Path. Ask for details about the 23-mile Sippewissett route.

See also the Knob under To See.

BEACHES Along Buzzards Bay and Vineyard Sound, 12 miles of Falmouth’s 68-mile shoreline are accessible to the public via four beaches. (There are eight additional town beaches.) Generally, waters are a bit warmer off Falmouth than off northside beaches because of the Gulf Stream. Weeklong cottage renters qualify to purchase a beach sticker, obtainable at the Surf Drive Beach Bathhouse daily in summer. The permit costs $$$$+ for one week. Some innkeepers provide beach stickers. Otherwise, you may pay a daily fee to park at the following beaches. (The Falmouth Beach Department [508-548-8623] has further details.)

Menauhant Beach, on Vineyard Sound, off Route 28 and Central Avenue, East Falmouth. The best Sound beach, by far. Waters are less choppy on Vineyard Sound than they are on the Atlantic. Facilities include restrooms, lifeguard, and snack bar. Parking $.

Old Silver Beach, on Buzzards Bay, off Route 28A and Quaker Road, North Falmouth. One of the sandiest beaches in town, this is a good one for children, as an offshore sandbar creates shallow tidal pools. Facilities include a lifeguard and a snack bar. Parking $$.

Surf Drive Beach, on Vineyard Sound, on Surf Drive, off Main and Shore Streets, Falmouth. This beach attracts sea kayakers, walkers, and swimmers who want to escape “downtown” beach crowds. It’s accessible via the Shining Sea Bike Path (see To Do); by foot it’s 15 minutes from the center of Falmouth. Facilities include a bathhouse, snack bar, and lifeguard. Parking $$.

Falmouth Heights Beach, on Vineyard Sound, Grand Avenue, Falmouth Heights. Although there is no public parking, the beach is public and popular. Facilities include restrooms, a lifeguard, and lots of snack bars.

A WALK IN THE WOODS

Images Beebe Woods, access from Ter Heun Drive off Route 28A or Highfield Drive off Depot Avenue, behind the College Light Opera Company (see Entertainment), Falmouth. The Beebes, a wealthy family originally from Boston, lived in Falmouth from the late 1870s to the early 1930s. Generous town benefactors, they were among the first to purchase land in Falmouth. The 1878 Highfield Hall (508-495-1878; highfieldhallandgardens.org) was the centerpiece of the property and has been magnificently restored with the vision of Friends of Highfield. (They hold concerts, exhibits, and workshops here, all with marvelous acoustics. If you have an opportunity to get inside, seize it!) The 383 acres around it contain miles of public trails for walking, mountain biking, dog walking, and bird-watching. In autumn especially it seems like the whole town takes the trail to the Punch Bowl (a kettle pond). It’s particularly pretty in May when the lady’s slippers bloom.

Images

HIGHFIELD HALL, FALMOUTH

PONDS Images Grews Pond, off Route 28 at Goodwill Park, Route 28, West Falmouth. Lifeguard in-season, as well as picnic and barbecue facilities and a playground. There are also hiking trails all around the pond.

WALKS Waterfront Park, Water Street near the MBL in Woods Hole, with shaded benches and a sundial from which you can tell time to within 30 seconds.

Eel Pond, off Water Street in Woods Hole. The harborlike pond has a drawbridge that grants access to Great Harbor for fishing boats, yachts, and research vessels moored here. (The walk around the shore is lovely.) The little bridge goes up and down on demand; in summer boats line up to pass through.

Bourne Farm (508-548-8484; saltpondsanctuaries.org), Route 28A, North Falmouth. Bucolic grounds open year-round; house open by appointment. Owned by the nonprofit Salt Pond Areas Bird Sanctuaries, Inc., this 1775 historic landmark includes a restored and furnished farmhouse, a bunkhouse (now a private residence), a barn, and 49 acres of orchards, fields, and wooded trails. It’s a perfectly tranquil spot overlooking Crocker Pond, complete with a picnic area under a grape arbor. It’s about as relaxing as it gets anywhere on the Cape! The property and barn are available for wedding rentals.

See also Spohr Gardens under the sidebar “Waterfront Beauties” and Ashumet Holly and Wildlife Sanctuary, Grews Pond, and Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve under Green Space.

EEL POND, WOODS HOLE

Lodging

Falmouth boasts as wide a variety of places to stay as anywhere on the Cape but, unfortunately, many of its family motels have been converted to time-share units. Generally, your lodging dollars will go a long way around here.

BED & BREAKFASTS

IN FALMOUTH HEIGHTS

Images Images Inn on the Sound (508-457-9666; innonthesound.com), 313 Grand Avenue. Without exaggeration, as good as it gets anywhere on Cape Cod, Howard Grosser’s place welcomes with contemporary grace, sophistication, and warmth. And it’s waterfront to boot! He (and his niece Whitney Tynan) have a perfectly attuned sense of what people want: Fabrics are fashionable but not overdone; sitting areas are comfortable and substantial but seaside-breezy; and the turn-of-the-20th-century B&B is elegantly upscale yet casual. Eight of the 10 bedrooms, each with an utterly tasteful aesthetic, have direct and expansive ocean views. Five have a private deck with those same ocean views. A lavish breakfast (served at individual tables) includes an artful array of breads, fruits, and perhaps an egg dish like huevos oceaneros. When you need a dose of relaxation, you might even find yourself visiting the website simply to listen to its ocean soundtrack. $$–$$$$.

INN ON THE SOUND

Bailey’s by the Sea (508-548-5748; baileysbythesea.com), 321 Grand Avenue. Open mid-May through October. The accommodating innkeepers offer six rooms with fabulous views at this nicely renovated waterfront B&B. The first-floor living space helps, too: It boasts a wraparound porch with a dozen picture windows and plenty of rocking chairs. In the comfortable guest rooms (with flat-screen TVs), decor ranges from Victorian to Japanese to traditional. Families should inquire about adjoining rooms at special rates. Third-floor rooms are particularly spacious. A full breakfast, served on the porch, might include poached peaches with white cheese mousse, a rolled omelet, and freshly baked bread. Bailey’s blended juice drinks are a specialty. $$–$$$.

ON OR NEAR THE FALMOUTH GREEN

Captain’s Manor Inn (508-388-7336; captainsmanorinn.com), 27 Main Street. Well, well, well: This place continues to amaze me by raising the bar higher with each passing year. If you want to be close to downtown but a world away, this Georgian plantation-style house—the only one of its kind on Cape Cod—is set back from the road in the heart of the historic district. Innkeepers Trish and Kevin Robinson are the proud and hospitable hosts of this elegant B&B. Guest rooms are large enough not to be overwhelmed by tall, shuttered casement windows, while the living room, with its impressively high ceilings, is casually elegant. The backyard parklike gardens and a gazebo are visible from the wraparound porch. Full breakfast at individual tables included. (As a footnote: Thinking of eloping? They have a package for that.) $$–$$$.

CAPTAIN’S MANOR INN

The Palmer House Inn (508-548-1230; palmerhouseinn.com), 81 Palmer Avenue. Innkeepers Pat and Bill O’Connell run an upscale Victorian B&B that’s chock-full of period appointments and fanciful decor right in the middle of town. The main house is a Queen Anne beauty with stained-glass windows, shiny hardwood floors, and front-porch rockers. I particularly like the rooms, many with gas fireplace, in the adjacent guest house because they afford greater privacy. In all, the O’Connells preside over 16 “bedchambers” and one cottage suite, all with robes, lots of lace, flowers, triple sheeting, and turndown service. Breakfast is elaborate and full, served at individual tables. Loaner bikes are available. $$–$$$.

Images Images Captain Tom Lawrence House Inn (508-548-9178; captaintomlawrence.com), 75 Locust Street. Open February through December. This 1861 former sea captain’s home is a pleasant and friendly B&B operated by Anne Grebert and Jim Cotter. The inn, set back from the road, offers six comfortable rooms with mini-fridges, showers (as opposed to bath tubs), and carpeting (to keep down the noise). A few of the bathrooms are small, so if you are large, inquire. Families might appreciate the efficiency apartment with private entrance. A full breakfast is served at two tables in the combo living/dining room. $–$$.

IN WOODS HOLE

Woods Hole Passage (508-548-9575; woodsholepassage.com), 186 Woods Hole Road. On the road connecting Woods Hole and Falmouth, Julie and Martha’s quiet B&B has a delightful feel. Its 2 acres of gardens are best enjoyed from the hammock or from the plentiful lounge chairs. The attached barn has five renovated guest rooms; second-floor rooms are more spacious, with vaulted ceilings and exposed beams. Decor is crisp country-modern, and each room has a bold splash of color. A full breakfast (served on the relaxing back patio) is included, as are loaner bikes, beach chairs, beach towels, and use of the outdoor shower. The owners have three kids of their own, so families feel right at home here. The B&B is within walking distance of a beach. $$.

OTHER PLACES TO STAY Sands of Time (508-548-6300; sandsoftime.com), 549 Woods Hole Road, Woods Hole. Open April to mid-November. This motel has been in Susie Veeder’s family since the mid-1960s, and you’d be hard pressed to find as much family pride elsewhere. Who stays? Some guests missed the last ferry; others know it’s a convenient place for exploring Woods Hole (a five-minute walk away). And the rooms? There are 20 air-conditioned motel units (most with a delightful view of Little Harbor and two with kitchenettes), an apartment (eh), and 15 nice and large innlike rooms in an adjacent 1870s house, many with a harbor view and working fireplace. Fresh flowers, morning coffee and doughnuts, a small heated pool, and morning newspapers set this place apart. It’s also a short walk to the beach and is adjacent to the Shining Sea Bikeway. $–$$.

WOODS HOLE PASSAGE

Images Images Images Images Seaside Inn (508-540-4120; seasideinnfalmouth.com), 263 Grand Avenue, Falmouth Heights. Across from Falmouth Heights Beach (see Green Space) and playing fields, this way-above-average, family-oriented motel has 23 rooms. Rates vary widely and are based on the degree of water view and amenities; whether the room has access to a deck, full kitchen, or kitchenette; and if the deck is shared or private. Rooms in the back building are the nicest, but the reservation folks won’t guarantee a particular room. Too bad, because the third-floor rooms are the best. $–$$.

By the way, the Falmouth branch of the British Beer Company (508-540-9600; britishbeer.com) is on the premises. It’s a fine place for an authentic stout or ale on tap. (Note I didn’t mention the food.) Live music on weekends and most summer nights.

Images Mariner’s Point Resort (508-457-0300; marinerspointresort.com), 425 Grand Avenue, Falmouth. Open mid-April to late October. This bilevel time-share offers 37 efficiency studios and apartments within a short stroll of Falmouth Heights Beach (see Green Space). Most of the four-person units overlook the pool area; a few have unobstructed views of Vineyard Sound and a town-owned park popular with kite fliers. $–$$.

RENTAL HOUSES & COTTAGES Real Estate Associates (capecodhouses.com) in North Falmouth (508-563-7173), West Falmouth (508-540-3005), Falmouth (508-548-0200), or Pocasset (508-563-5266).

CAMPGROUNDS Images Sippewissett Campground & Cabins (508-548-2542; sippewissett.com), 836 Palmer Avenue, Falmouth. Open mid-May to mid-October. This well-run, private campground has cabins, tepees, and 100 large campsites for tents, trailers, and RVs; clean, large bathrooms and showers; free shuttles in July and August to Chapoquoit Beach and year-round to the Martha’s Vineyard ferry. $.

See also Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve under Green Space.

Where to Eat

Falmouth and Woods Hole restaurants satisfy all palates and budgets through upscale bistro dining, waterfront fish houses, taverns, and diners.

DINING OUT

IN FALMOUTH

Images The Glass Onion (508-540-3730; theglassoniondining.com), 37 North Main Street. Open D. Dining in Falmouth (and the Upper Cape for that matter) hasn’t been the same since The Onion burst onto the scene in 2010. Utilizing market-fresh ingredients from start to finish, the chef-owners sure know how to please. I’ve been known to dine here three nights over a 10-day period, but I moderate in other ways by selecting lobster strudel only once per trip. No reservations. $$$$.

Images

THE GLASS ONION

Images Images La Cucina Sul Mare (508-548-5600; lacucinasulmare.com), 237 Main Street. Open L, D. This Northern Italian and Mediterranean eatery with outdoor seating offers portions so large that you should think about sharing dishes. To make matters even better, the husband and wife team of Cynthia and Mark Cilfone do a super job of making it feel like one giant dinner party here (reservations only for parties of five or more). Intimate, charming, and villa-like, La Cucina has been offering fresh, Old World pasta and seafood specials since 2002. Live music on Sundays. L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

Anejo Mexican Bistro & Tequila Bar (508-388-7631; anejomexicanbistro.com), 188 Main Street. Open L, D. This place excels in adventurous Mexican dishes, tequila cocktails, and outside dining. It’s almost impossible to go wrong with any of their house specials (like chile rellenos, carne asada, or pork carnitas), but don’t overlook their excellent cod. I always judge places like this on their house margaritas and guacamole: the latter as a side dish would feed a small army, while the house version of the classic drink rules.

Osteria La Civetta (508-540-1616; osterialacivetta.com), 133 Main Street. Open L, D. When you want to linger, this Old World and family-style trattoria has few equals—partly because service is so “relaxed” and partly because that’s the way things are done in the home country. (That didn’t change when the Osteria doubled in size and a little something was lost in translation.) All of the six or seven main dishes (including the gluten-free pasta) are made completely from scratch. Come hungry and do it up with all four courses: antipasti, primi, secondi, and contorni. Or eat lighter at the little bar. L $$ (weekends only), D secondi $$$.

Chapoquoit Grill (508-540-7794; chapoquoitgrill.com), 410 West Falmouth Highway, West Falmouth. Open D. From the moment this eclectic New American bistro opened in the early 1990s, it was a success. Still run by the original owners with their loyal chef overseeing the kitchen, “Chappy’s” has a Grateful Dead kind of cult following (i.e., regulars who would follow them anywhere no matter what). You can spot the neighborhood folks who appreciate the low-key atmosphere: They order from the nightly specials menu. Pasta dishes are always superb. The popular wood-fired, super-thin-crust pizzas are also excellent. No reservations are taken, so get there when it opens at 5 PM or be prepared for a wait in the convivial bar. $$.

IN WOODS HOLE

Water Street Kitchen and Public House (508-540-5656; waterstreetkitchen.com), 56 Water Street. Open D. Housed within the former Fishmonger, the casually romantic Kitchen offers upscale waterfront dining, plenty of seafood dishes, and fresh-from-the-farm seasonal fare. The ever-changing expressive menu might include pan-fried shishito peppers with lime ponsu; sea scallops with truffled beets and cauliflower purée; or a flat iron steak with lobster-bacon hash. The mint-lemonade soda is rather refreshing for a change, but as you can imagine, they have an ample selection of wines, sake, and a creative cocktail list. D $$$.

EATING OUT

IN FALMOUTH

Parkside Market (774-763-2066; parksidemarket.com), 281 Main Street. Open B, L, D. When you want a quick meal with very good food (and huuuge portions) at very good prices, think Parkside. It’s nothing fancy inside (although the food is fancier than you’d think), but you can feed a family of four without mortgaging your future. From burgers and delicious fish-and-chips to a three-cheese sandwich with avocado and light and creamy (superb) clam chowder, you’ll be pleased with this friendly joint. $–$$$.

Images Clam Shack (508-540-7758), 227 Clinton Avenue. Open L, D, late May to early September. There is rarely enough room inside this old-time and favored shack, but it’s just as well—head to the back deck to munch on fried clams, scallops, and fish while watching pleasure boats and fishing boats come and go. No credit cards. $–$$.

Simply Divine Pizza (508-548-1222; divinepizza.com), 271 Main Street. This might be the Cape’s best pizza: stone-fired Neapolitan with a thin and crispy crust. The whole package comes together here: creative offerings (like fig and bacon), relaxing atmosphere, and good service. There are pasta dishes, too. I bet you’ll be tempted to eat here more than once.

Pies a la Mode (508-540-8777; piesalamode.com), 352 Main Street #4, near White Hen Pantry. Open B, L. I love this hidden gem, which makes everything from scratch and on premises. Take their amazing chicken pot pies (!!) and Cornish pasties to the beach, to the green, or home, and count yourself lucky to have found them! Excellence continues with dessert pies and gelato. $$–$$$.

Golden Swan (508-540-6580), 323 Main Street. Open L, D. When you tire of New American cuisine or seafood, you won’t be disappointed with the Indian cuisine here—unless you hail from Bangalore. Too bad the interior is so dark. $$.

Peking Palace (508-540-8204; pekingpalacefalmouth.com), 452 Main Street. Open L, D. If you’re hankering for take-out from your favorite suburban-style Chinese restaurant at home, the Peking Palace is your place. Along with a sushi bar, there must be 200 Mandarin, Szechuan, and Cantonese dishes on the menu. L $, D $–$$.

Betsy’s Diner (508-540-0060), 457 Main Street, East Falmouth. Open B, L, D. The old-fashioned 1957 Mountain View Diner was transported in 1992 from Pennsylvania to Main Street, where it was placed on the site of another diner. The boxy addition isn’t historic, just functional. Folks come for inexpensive fare: club sandwiches, breakfast specials, and the famous roast turkey dinner. Specials are generally very good and portions large. Breakfast is served all day to tunes from the ’60s. $.

CLAM SHACK

Mary Ellen’s Portuguese Bakery (508-540-9696), 829 Main Street. Open B, L. In addition to traditional Portuguese offerings like kale soup and malasadas, these super-friendly (and family-friendly) folks offer breakfast omelets throughout the day and cheeseburgers, too. It’s small, but it’s a find. No credit cards. $.

Dana’s Kitchen (508-540-7900; danas-kitchen.com), 881 Palmer Avenue. Open B, L. This overgrown farm stand with outdoor seating offers sandwiches, salads, and pastries in a tranquil, country-style setting. If only the ordering system were so tranquil . . . $.

Images Images Casino Wharf FX (508-540-6160; casinowharffx.com), 286 Grand Avenue. Open L, D, March to January. When this two-story upscale place supplanted one hosting wet T-shirt contests, everyone breathed a sigh of relief—the stunning waterfront location was accessible to all once again. I go only because of the views at lunch from one of two beachfront decks; the interior has soaring ceilings but rather conservative decor. The bar plays a central role in the dining room. Check out the weekend evening entertainment on the deck. L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

The Flying Bridge (508-548-2700; flyingbridgerestaurant.com), 220 Scranton Avenue. Open D. The only reason I’m including this is because of its prominent harborfront location. If that persuades you, the only thing I recommend is lobster. $$.

See also Liam Maguire’s and Boathouse under Entertainment.

IN WOODS HOLE

Quicks Hole Tavern (508-495-0048; quicksholewickedfresh.com), 29 Railroad Avenue. Open L, D. Part taqueria, part tavern, part farm-to-table fine dining, the bustling Quicks Hole has an enviable perch right across from the ferry terminal for the Vineyard. Nothing like watching your ship come in—but please get in line way before that! L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

Captain Kidd (508-548-8563; thecaptainkidd.com), 77 Water Street. Both the tavern and fancier waterfront section overlooking Eel Pond are open L, D. This local watering hole is named for the pirate who supposedly spent a short time in the environs of Woods Hole on the way to his execution in England. As such, a playful pirate mural hangs above barrel-style tables across from the long, hand-carved mahogany bar. The Kidd offers specialty pizzas, burgers, sandwiches, fish-and-chips, scrod, steaks, and blackboard fish specials. The glassed-in patio with a woodstove is a cozy place to be in winter. The only drawback here: The staff is at times more attentive to the TV at the bar than they are to patrons. Still, it’s an institution, with bouncers. Tavern $$, waterfront dining $$–$$$. No credit cards.

Pie in the Sky (508-540-5475; woodshole.com/pie), 10 Water Street. Open 364 days a year (“at least 5 AM–10 PM”). This funky—in a good way—institution has strong coffee (they roast it themselves), strong WiFi, good handmade pastries, hearty sandwiches, and homemade soups. There are a few tables inside and garden/streetside. In summer, frequent patio entertainment packs a crowd that extends up the hillside. It’s inevitably my first and last stop in Woods Hole. $–$$.

PIE IN THE SKY

COFFEE, ICE CREAM, & MARKETS

Images Coffee Obsession (508-540-2233; coffeeobsession.com), 110 Palmer Avenue, Falmouth; and 38 Water Street in Woods Hole Village. Caffeine addicts flock to “Coffee O” for bracing espressos, a slice of coffee cake, and a smidgen of counterculture à la Falmouth and Woods Hole. Eggnog, apple cider, and other seasonal beverages, too. A retail shop serves all your chai- and coffee-related needs.

COFFEE OBSESSION

Smitty’s Ice Cream (508-457-1060; smittysic.com), 326 East Falmouth Highway, Route 28, East Falmouth. My dear friend Jan loved this place and so do I—by extension and on its own merits. (Also in Barnstable on Route 6A, in Mashpee at the rotary of Routes 28 and 151, and in North Falmouth on Route 28A.)

West Falmouth Market (508-548-1139), 623 Route 28A, West Falmouth. A great neighborhood place to stop for light groceries, deli sandwiches, and wine.

Windfall Market (508-548-0099; windfallmarket.com), 77 Scranton Avenue, Falmouth. Prepared foods, a deli section, lobsters, and homemade breads are baked fresh daily.

Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium (508-548-7878; benandbills.com), 209 Main Street, Falmouth. This old-fashioned sweets shop is lined with walls of confections, some made on the premises. But the store’s best offering? Excellent store-made ice cream served in abundant quantities.

See Pie in the Sky, too.

Entertainment

Band concerts, July and August. The Falmouth Town Band performs at Marine Park, on the west side of the Inner Harbor, on Thursday evenings. Bring a chair or a blanket and watch the kids dance to simple marches and big-band numbers. Or wander around and look at the moored boats. There are also free Friday concerts at 6 PM at Peg Noonan Park on Main Street in July and August.

Movies Under the Stars (falmouthvillageassociation.com), Peg Noonan Park on Main Street, Falmouth. Late June through August. Family-friendly movie starts at dusk every Wednesday. It’s a charming way to spend the evening—rather like a drive-in of yore, except without the car!

College Light Opera Company (508-548-0668; collegelightoperacompany.com), 58 Highfield Drive, Depot Avenue, Falmouth. Performances late June to late August. Founded in 1969, this talented and energetic company includes music majors and theater arts students from across the country. Reserve early, as these performances sell out quickly. $$$$.

Highfield Hall (508-495-1878; highfieldhall.org). After a $6.5 million labor of love, this magnificently restored 1878 manse opened as a community cultural center. It holds concerts, exhibits, and workshops, all with marvelous acoustics. April to November.

Woods Hole Folk Music Society (508-540-0320; arts-cape.com/whfolkmusic), Community Hall, 68 Water Street, Woods Hole. Well-known folkies generally play on the first and third Monday of each month, except December. $$.

The Cape Cod Theatre Project (508-457-4242; capecodtheatreproject.org), Falmouth Academy, 7 Highfield Drive, Falmouth. Established by two New York actors who were vacationing in Woods Hole in 1994, the project stages readings of new American plays in July. $$$.

See also Highfield Hall in the “A Walk in the Woods” sidebar under Green Space.

MOVIES

Regal (Hoyts) Cinemas Nickelodeon 5 (844-462-7342), 742 Nathan Ellis Highway, North Falmouth. Art house, independent, and first-run flicks.

NIGHTLIFE

Images Liam Maguire’s Irish Pub & Restaurant (508-548-0285; liammaguire.com), 273 Main Street, Falmouth. It doesn’t get any more fun than this unless you go to South Boston or Dublin. Irish students serve shepherd’s pie, Irish beef stew, or fish-and-chips in beer batter ($$ at L, D). Food is average, the sandwiches a bit better, and the quinoa salad pretty darn good. Come for beer (Guinness on draft) and live entertainment year-round (including sing-alongs). Liam himself plays some nights.

LIAM MAGUIRE’S IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT

Shuckers World Famous Raw Bar & Café (508-540-3850; shuckerscapecod.com), 91A Water Street. When you’re in the mood for beer in plastic cups, this place has a seat with your name on it.

Pier37 Boathouse (508-388-7573; falmouthpier37.com), 88 Scranton Avenue, Falmouth. Open late April to mid-October. The Boathouse jumps with live music and lively crowds.

Selective Shopping

Between the quality of its shops and the strollability of the street, you can easily pass a couple of very pleasant hours on Falmouth’s Main Street.

ART GALLERY Falmouth Artists Guild (508-540-3304; falmouthart.org), 137 Gifford Street at the corner of Dillingham Avenue. This nonprofit guild (active since the 1950s) holds eight to 13 exhibitions annually, a few of which are juried; classes; and various fund-raising auctions. See Special Events for the sand sculpture contest.

ARTISANS Woods Hole Handworks (508-540-5291), 68 Water Street, Woods Hole. Open mid-June to mid-October. This tiny artisans cooperative, perched over the water near the drawbridge to Eel Pond, has a selection of fine handmade jewelry, scarves, weaving, and beadwork.

SHOPPING ON MAIN STREET, FALMOUTH

WOODS HOLE HANDWORKS

Under the Sun (508-540-3603; underthesunwoodshole.com), 22 Water Street, Woods Hole. An eclectic selection of handcrafted jewelry, pottery, glass, and wood. Although the quality is somewhat uneven, the very good far outweighs the all right.

BOOKSTORES Eight Cousins Children’s Books (508-548-5548; eightcousins.com), 189 Main Street. Long before it won the equivalent of the Pulitzer Prize for children’s bookstores in 2002, this excellent shop enjoyed broad and deep roots in the community. Named for one of Louisa May Alcott’s lesser-known works, Eight Cousins stocks more than 17,000 titles and is a great resource, whether you’re a teacher, a gift buyer, or entertaining a child on a rainy afternoon. It continues to excel with kids’ programs, regular story times, and great service. Don’t miss artist Sarah Peters’s Alphabet Chair metal sculpture in front of the store. It’s a favorite with kids and adults, who love to sit on it and feel the different textures of the individual letters that make up the throne.

CLOTHING Maxwell & Co. (508-540-8752; maxwellandco.com), 200 Main Street. Absolutely fine men’s and women’s clothing.

Liberty House (508-548-7568; libertyhousecapecod.com), 89 Water Street, Woods Hole; 119 Palmer Avenue (508-548-3900), Falmouth. Falmouth store open mid-April to January; Woods Hole store open mid-April to December. Good taste and reasonable prices for linen shorts and slacks, sundresses, stacks of cotton T-shirts, and gifts.

FARMERS’ MARKET At Falmouth Marine Park on Scranton Avenue, every Thursday mid-June to mid-October.

MALL Falmouth Mall (508-790-2844; falmouth-mall.com), 137 Teaticket Highway. A smaller version of the nearby Cape Cod Mall in Hyannis.

SPECIAL SHOPS Rosie Cheeks (508-548-4572), 233 Main Street. Women’s clothing and home accents.

Twigs (508-540-0767), 178 Main Street. Practical, decorative, and functional accessories for the home and garden.

Special Events

Early–mid-July: Arts and Crafts Street Fair. Main Street fills with crafts, artisans, and food stalls.

Late July–early August: Woods Hole Film Festival (508-495-3456; woodsholefilmfestival.com). This is the oldest independent film festival in Cape Cod. About 50 films by established and new filmmakers have been screened at various locations since the early 1990s.

FAIRS AND POWWOWS

Early July: Powwow (508-477-0208, Wampanoag Tribe; mashpeewampanoagtribe.com), 483 Great Neck Road South, Mashpee. The People of the First Light’s Mashpee Wampanoag Powwow has been open to the public since before 1924, and the Mashpee Wampanoag Tribal Council has sponsored it since 1974. The powwow attracts Native Americans in full regalia from nearly every state as well as Canada, Mexico, and some Central and South American countries. These traditional gatherings provide an opportunity for tribes to exchange stories and discuss common problems and goals. Dancing, crafts demonstrations, storytelling, pony rides, a “fire ball,” a clambake, and vendor booths. Kids are encouraged to join in the dancing and nearly constant percussive music. $$.

Late July: Barnstable County Fair (508-563-3200; barnstablecountyfair.org), 1220 Nathan Ellis Highway, East Falmouth. A popular weeklong family tradition. Local and national musical acts, a midway, livestock shows, and horticulture, cooking, and crafts exhibits and contests. $.

Mid-August: Annual Antiques Show, Falmouth Historical Society; since 1970.

Falmouth Road Race (508-540-7000; falmouthroadrace.com). The event of the year in Falmouth: an internationally renowned 7-mile seaside footrace, limited to about 12,800 participants. Get your registration in before early May or you won’t have a chance of running. Reserve your lodging ASAP—like when you send in your registration!

Mid- to late September: Cape Cod Scallop Fest, Cape Cod Fairgrounds, East Falmouth (capecodscallopfest.com). A weekend celebration with games, concerts, and restaurants and vendors offering dishes that celebrate—what else?—the scallop. Rain or shine, as the eating takes place under a big tent; since 1969. $.

Early October: JazzFest (artsfalmouth.org), Arts Foundation of Cape Cod, Marina Park.

Late October: Cape Cod Marathon (508-540-6959; capecodmarathon.com). A high-spirited event, beginning and ending on Falmouth’s village green and attracting more than 2,000 long-distance runners and relay teams. Commit by September or you’ll be disappointed.

Early December: Christmas by the Sea. Tree lighting, caroling at the lighthouse and town green, and a significant Christmas parade. Popular house tours are operated by the West Falmouth Library (508-548-4709).