Explorer’s Guide Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard & Nantucket 11E

HYANNIS

Hyannis is the Cape’s commercial and transportation hub: Just under 1 million people take the ferry from Hyannis to Nantucket every year. Most Cape visitors end up in Hyannis at some point, whether by choice or by necessity.

Among Cape visitors, Hyannis seems to be everyone’s favorite whipping post: A sigh of sympathy is heard when someone mentions he “has” to go into Hyannis in July or August. Yes, traffic is gnarly and Route 28 is overbuilt, but those same Cape residents and off-Cape visitors who moan about congestion in Hyannis couldn’t live as easily without its services, including many fine restaurants. They come to buy new cars, embark to the islands, visit doctors, and shop at malls. Thus, because it is so distinct from the rest of Barnstable, I have given it its own chapter even though Hyannis is technically one of Barnstable’s seven villages.

Hyannis’s harborfront and Main Street began to be revitalized in the 1990s, thanks in part to the encouragement of the late Ben Thompson, architect of Boston’s Quincy Market shopping complex and other successful urban waterfront development projects. And it’s received additional, phased face-lifts ever since. It’s a downright pleasant place these days. Boating activity on Lewis Bay is active. Main Street is a study in contrasts: Lined with benches and hanging flower baskets in an attempt to attract strollers, it also has lots of T-shirt shops, some vacant storefronts, and a growing crop of congregating youth and shops geared to them. (Hyannis is, after all, the closest thing to a “city” that the Cape has.) Look for the Walkway to the Sea—a nice, spiffy link between Main Street and the waterfront—and harborfront “shacks” from which artists sell their goods.

Hyannis has a bit of everything: discount outlets, upward of 50 eating establishments in the waterfront district alone, some quiet cottages and guest houses, plenty of motels geared to overnight visitors waiting for the morning ferry, harbor tours, and lots of lively bars and nightlife.

Then there’s the Kennedy mystique. Hyannisport—a neighborhood within Hyannis but quite distinct from Hyannis—will forever be remembered as the place where, in the early 1960s, President John F. Kennedy and his wife, Jacqueline, sailed offshore and played with Caroline and John. Visitors who come in search of the “Kennedy compound,” or in hopes of somehow experiencing the Kennedy aura, will find only an inaccessible, residential, Yankee-style community of posh estates.

HYANNIS PORT YACHT CLUB

Lastly, let’s talk historical perspective for a paragraph or two. Hyannis’s harbor area was inhabited about 1,000 years ago by ancestors of the Eastern Algonquian Indians, who set up summer campsites south of what is now Ocean Street. The first European to reach Cape Cod, Bartholomew Gosnold, anchored in the harbor in 1602. Shortly thereafter, settlers persuaded Native American sachem Yanno to sell them what is now known as Hyannis and Centerville for £20 and two pairs of pants.

Main Street was laid out in 1750, and by the early 1800s Hyannis was already known as the Cape’s transportation hub. The harbor bustled with two- and three-masted schooners. When the steam-train line was extended from Barnstable in 1854, land-based trade and commerce supplanted the marine-based economy. Tourists began arriving in much greater numbers by the end of the 19th century. Yachts filled the harbor by the 1930s and continued to do so until John Kennedy (who tied up at the Hyannisport Yacht Club) renewed interest in traditional local sailboats, known as catboats, in the 1950s.

GUIDANCE Hyannis Area Chamber of Commerce (508-775-2201; hyannis.com), 388 Main Street, Hyannis.

A PERFECT DAY IN HYANNIS

9:00	Go for an early-morning swim at Veterans Beach.
10:45	Relive or discover Camelot at the JFK Hyannis Museum.
1:00	Eat harborside at Baxter’s or more sublimely at Pain D’Avignon.
2:30	See kettle chips roll off the assembly line at CC Potato Chip Factory.
4:00	Get out on the water with Hyannisport Harbor Cruises.
6:00	Order a sublime seafood dish at the Naked Oyster.
8:00	Take in an outdoor concert at the Cape Cod Melody Tent.
10:30	Sit beneath a rare 200-year-old weeping beech tree.

STARSTRUCK

Cape Cod Melody Tent (508-775-5630; melodytent.org), 21 West Main Street. Shows June through early September. When this big white tent with a revolving stage was erected in 1950, entertainment was limited to Broadway musicals. Today, despite the occasional, less-than-perfect sound and acoustics, it’s the Cape’s biggest and best venue for top-name musicians. Look for the likes of Chicago, Bonnie Raitt, ZZ Top, Shawn Colvin, Melissa Etheridge, Tony Bennett, Julio Iglesias, and Lyle Lovett. It’s only “big” by Cape standards; you’ll be surprised how close you are to your favorite stars here—about 20 rows max. That translates to about 50 feet.

GETTING THERE By car: To reach Hyannis, about 30 minutes from the Cape Cod Canal, take Exit 6 off Route 6; follow Route 132 south to the airport rotary (at the junction of Routes 28 and 132). Take the second right off the rotary onto Barnstable Road, which intersects with Main, Ocean, and South Streets (for the harbor).

By bus: The Plymouth & Brockton bus line (508-746-0378; p-b.com) connects Hyannis with other Cape towns, as well as with Boston’s Logan Airport. Bonanza/Peter Pan (888-751-8800; peterpanbus.com) connects Hyannis to Providence, T. F. Green Airport, and New York City. Both buses operate out of the Hyannis Transportation Center at Center and Main Streets.

By air: Barnstable Municipal Airport (508-775-2020), at the rotary junction of Route 28 and Route 132, Hyannis. Small carriers serving Hyannis include Cape Air (508-771-6944; capeair.com) and Nantucket Air (800-227-3247; nantucketairlines.org)

GETTING AROUND By car: Hyannis suffers from serious summer traffic problems. Parking on Main Street is free if you can get a space. If not, try North Street, one block north of Main Street and parallel to it. Main Street (one-way) is geared to strolling, but it’s a long walk from end to end.

For rentals, call the big agencies based at the airport: Hertz (508-775-5825; hertz.com), Avis (508-775-2888; avis.com), and Budget (508-771-4734; budget.com). Thrifty (508-771-0450; thrifty.com) is across from the airport. Trek (508-771-2459; trekrentacar.com) is near the bus terminal, but they’ll pick you up from the airport.

Hyannis Area Trolley (508-385-1430; 800-352-7155; capecodtransit.org). Operating daily from late June through early September; daily except Sunday in the winter. The summertime beach trolley makes a loop down Main Street to Sea Street, the beaches, and South Street. $.

The Sealine connects Hyannis to Barnstable, Mashpee, Falmouth, and Woods Hole. Pick up a schedule at the chamber of commerce (see Guidance) or Hyannis Transportation Center. $.

GETTING TO THE ISLANDS From Hyannis, there is year-round auto and passenger service to Nantucket and seasonal passenger service to Martha’s Vineyard. For complete information, see Getting There in “Martha’s Vineyard” and “Nantucket.” You can also fly to the islands.

MEDIA The daily Cape Cod Times (508-775-1200; capecodonline.com) is published in Hyannis (319 Main Street).

PUBLIC RESTROOMS At beaches (see Green Space), behind the JFK Hyannis Museum on Main Street, and at the Ocean Street Docks (Bismore Park).

PUBLIC LIBRARY Images Images Images Hyannis Public Library (508-775-2280; hyannislibrary.org), 401 Main Street. This charming little house has a much larger facility tacked onto the rear.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Cape Cod Hospital (508-771-1800), 27 Park Street. Open 24/7.

To See

John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum (508-790-3077; jfkhyannismuseum.org), 397 Main Street. Open mid-February through December. This museum opened in the early 1990s to meet the demands of visitors making the pilgrimage to Hyannis in search of JFK. People wanted to see “something,” so the chamber gave them a museum that focuses on JFK’s time in Hyannisport and on Cape Cod. The museum features more than 100 photographs of Kennedy from 1931 to 1963, arranged in themes: JFK’s friends, JFK’s family, JFK the man. He said, “I always go to Hyannisport to be revived, to know the power of the sea and the master who rules over it and all of us.” (If you want to really learn something about the president and his administration, head to the JFK Museum in Boston.) A statue of JFK, sculpted by native Cape Codder David Lewis, graces the front of the museum. $–$$.

Baseball League Hall of Fame (508-790-3077), ground floor of the John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum. Hours same as museum above. Celebrating the 10 teams in the Cape Cod Baseball League, the museum displays autographed bats and balls, old photos, baseball cards of players drafted by the majors, and other memorabilia. If you’re a real fan of America’s favorite pastime, this will be of interest to you. If you’re more interested in peanuts and Cracker Jack, go to a game instead. $.

JFK MEMORIAL

KENNEDY COMPOUND

JFK Memorial, Ocean Street. The fountain, behind a large presidential seal mounted on a high stone wall, is inscribed: I BELIEVE IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THIS COUNTRY SAIL AND NOT SIT STILL IN THE HARBOR. There is a nice view of Lewis Bay from here.

Kennedy compound. Joe and Rose Kennedy rented the Malcolm Cottage in Hyannisport from 1926 to 1929 before purchasing and remodeling it to include 14 rooms, nine baths, and a private movie theater in the basement. (It was the first private theater in New England.) By 1932 there were nine children scampering around the house and grounds, which included a private beach, dock, tennis court, and pool. In 1956, then Sen. John Kennedy purchased an adjacent house at the corner of Scudder and Irving Avenues, which came to be known as the “Summer White House.” Bobby bought the house next door, which now belongs to his widow, Ethel. Sen. Edward Kennedy’s former house (it now belongs to his ex-wife, Joan) is on private Squaw Island. Eunice (Kennedy) and Sargent Shriver purchased a nearby home on Atlantic Avenue.

It was at Malcolm Cottage that JFK learned he’d been elected president; at Malcolm Cottage that Jacqueline and the president mourned the loss of their infant son; at Malcolm Cottage that the family mourned the deaths of the president and Bobby Kennedy; at Malcolm Cottage that Sen. Edward Kennedy would annually present his mother with a rose for each of her years; at Malcolm Cottage that matriarch Rose Kennedy died in 1995 at the age of 104; and at Malcom Cottage in 2009 where the clan gathered to transport Senator Kennedy’s body from his beloved Cape Cod to services at the JFK Library in Boston (before he was interred in Arlington Cemetery in Washington, D.C., next to his brothers). In 2012 the Marchant house was donated to the Edward M. Kennedy Institute for the U.S. Senate, with plans to open it to the public.

Although Kennedy sightings are rare, the Kennedys are still Hyannis’s No. 1 “attraction.”

If you drive or walk around this stately area, you’ll see nothing but high hedges and fences. Those who can’t resist a look-see will be far better off taking a boat tour (see To Do); some boats come quite close to the shoreline and the white frame houses.

St. Francis Xavier Church, 347 South Street. Members of Rose Kennedy’s clan worshiped here when they were in town. The pew used by JFK is marked with a plaque, while the altar is a memorial to JFK’s brother, Lt. Joe Kennedy Jr., killed during World War II.

Images Cape Cod Maritime Museum (508-775-1723; capecodmaritimemuseum.org), 135 South Street. Open mid-March to mid-December. This harborfront museum offers interactive exhibits, lectures, and classes in ship model making, maritime archaeology, and boatbuilding. It also displays boats that illuminate the region’s past, present, and forthcoming connections with the sea. After the traditional catboat Sarah was built on the premises (quite a production), she was launched in Lewis Bay in 2007 and set out on excursions from ports between Chatham and Woods Hole. Don’t miss a chance to go on 90-minute cruises with her (Thursday through Saturday, $$$). Museum $.

RARE SPECIMENS

Weeping beech trees. In the courtyard behind 605 Main Street (Hyannis) and in the front yard of an inn on Route 6A (Barnstable; pictured here). To the town of Hyannis’ knowledge, these specimens represent two of the seven remaining weeping beech trees in the entire country. They are awesome, magnificent, 200-plus-year-old beauties.

WEEPING BEECH TREE (BARNSTABLE)

Cape Cod Potato Chip Factory (888-881-2447; capecodchips.com), 100 Breed’s Hill Road, Independence Park, off Route 132. After Chatham resident Steve Bernard began the company in 1980 and parlayed it into a multimillion-dollar business, he sold it to corporate giant Anheuser-Busch and moved on to the business of purveying Chatham Village Croutons. But in the mid-1990s, when Anheuser-Busch wanted to sell or close it, Bernard bought the company back, saving about 100 year-round jobs. (Now it’s owned by Lance, Inc., another snack manufacturer.) Take the 15-minute self-guided tour of the potato-chip-making process, then sample the rich flavor and high crunchability resulting from all-natural ingredients cooked in small kettles. Free.

Cape Cod Beer (508-790-4200; capecodbeer.com), 1336 Phinneys Lane. This microbrewery bills itself as a community space; think Friday farmers’ market meets local happy hour. It has super informative tours and tastings, live music at times, fun games all the time, and a beer garden (i.e., a roped-off section of a parking lot when it’s not indoors during inclement weather). All in all, people enjoy themselves here.

Images Cape Cod Central Railroad (508-771-3800; capetrain.com), 252 Main and Center Streets. Trips late May to late October. The 48-mile trip takes two hours and passes cranberry bogs, the Sandy Neck Great Salt Marsh, and the Cape Cod Canal. Because there are typically two trains daily, you take the first one, hop off in Sandwich, walk into the picturesque village (it’s about a 10-minute walk), and then catch the next train back to Hyannis. The best part of this trip is the local narration—unless you’ve never been on a train before, in which case, the simple act of taking a train will tickle you more. The scenery isn’t all that interesting, actually. $$$.

TOAD HALL

Town green, adjacent to the JFK Hyannis Museum. Note the life-sized bronze of the sachem Iyanough, chief of the Mattakeese tribe of Cummaquid and friend to the Pilgrims, created by Osterville sculptor David Lewis.

Toad Hall—Classic Sports Car Collection at the Simmons Homestead Inn (508-778-4934; toadhallcars.com), 288 Scudder Avenue. Bill Putman relishes his quirkiness, and it’s on full display here with an impressive collection of classic red sports cars—45 at last count. They’re packed into a low-slung, garage-style barn, complete with fake Oriental carpets lining the gravel pathways between the cars. $.

SCENIC DRIVE Hyannisport is by far the loveliest section of Hyannis, but don’t come expecting to see the Kennedys. The “compound” is wedged between Scudder and Irving Avenues. From Main Street, turn left onto Sea Street, right onto Ocean Avenue, left onto Hyannis Avenue, left onto Iyanough Road (Route 132), right onto Wachusett Avenue, and left onto Scudder Avenue.

To Do

BASEBALL The Hyannis Harbor Hawks of the Cape Cod Baseball League (capecodbaseball.org) plays from mid-June to early August under the lights at McKeon Park. (Take South Street to High School Road and turn right.)

BICYCLING & RENTALS Bike Zone (508-775-3299; bikezonecapecod.com), 323 Barnstable Road. Tim and Ryan’s shop is one of the best on the Cape. Rent by the hour ($), return the same day ($$), or dig into the area with multiple-day packages and weekly rates ($$–$$$$+).

BOAT EXCURSIONS & RENTALS Hyannisport Harbor Cruises (508-790-0696; hylinecruises.com), 220 Ocean Street. Mid-April to mid-October. Lewis Bay and Hyannis Harbor are beautiful, and the best way to appreciate them is by water. Also, if you’re like 85,000 other visitors each season and you want the best possible view of the Kennedy compound, take this hour-long Hy-Line excursion. The boat comes within 500 feet of the shoreline compound—which is closer than you can get by foot or car. During the height of summer, there’s a Sunday afternoon family cruise with Ben & Jerry’s ice cream sundaes. Oh, and kids ride free on morning summertime trips. $$.

Cape Cod Duckmobiles (508-790-2111; capecodduckmobile.com), 437 Main Street. Mid-June to early September departures every 30 minutes. These amphibious tours last 45 minutes, go splashing around Hyannis Harbor, and then roll along the street, rather like ducks out of water. $$.

Pirate Adventures (508-394-9100; capecodpirateadventures.com), 180 Ocean Street. Trips mid-June to early September. Particularly fun for children, this swashbuckling trip begins with face painting on the dock. Then kids sign on to the pirate ship as crew, take a pirate oath, search for sunken treasure, and fire water cannons against renegade pirates. On the return voyage, the booty is shared and pirates celebrate with song and dance. $$$.

Cat Boat (508-775-0222; catboat.com), 146 Ocean Street. Late May to mid-October. Look for the big cat on the sail. Eventide has a full complement of trips, including 90-minute excursions and private charters; head down to the dock to see what they offer. $$$$.

HYANNIS PORT

FISHING & SHELLFISHING Procure freshwater and saltwater fishing licenses and regulations online (mass.gov/eea/agencies/dfg/licensing)

Sports Port (508-775-3096; sportsport.us), 149 West. Main Street. Surely you’ve seen the statue of a yellow guy in a red rowboat? That means the store is open. References for charters and tours; supplies for freshwater, saltwater, and fly-fishing; shellfish permits; and ice-fishing details, too.

Hy-Line Fishing Trips (508-790-0696; hylinecruises.com), Ocean Street Docks. Bottom-fishing “Captain’s Choice” for fluke and blues from mid-June to early September. Half-day trips. $$$$.

The supercruiser Helen-H (508-790-0660; helenh.com), Pleasant Street Docks, goes in search of big fish, too. You’ll find cod all year long, bottom fish in the spring, and blues in summer.

GOLF Hyannis Golf Club (508-362-2606; barnstablegolf.com), Route 132.

Twin Brooks Golf Course (508-862-6980; twinbrooksgolf.net), 35 Scudder Avenue, West End Circle. At the Resort and Conference Center at Hyannis.

ICE-SKATING Kennedy Memorial Skating Rink (508-790-6345), 141 Bassett Lane off Bearses Way.

SPECIAL PROGRAMS Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS) (508-362-8690; ems.com), 1513 Route 132. In addition to renting kayaks (great for navigating herring rivers, creeks, and inlets), the Cape’s largest purveyor of outdoor gear offers free instructional clinics periodically. Topics range from outdoor cooking to mastering compass skills.

TENNIS Public courts are located at Barnstable High School off West Main Street.

Green Space

BEACHES Weekly cottage renters can purchase beach stickers at the Kennedy Memorial Skating Rink at the Hyannis Youth & Community Center (508-790-6345), 141 Bassett Lane, Bearses Way.

Kalmus Park Beach, at the end of Ocean Street on Nantucket Sound. This beach is good for sailboarding. The land, by the way, was donated by Technicolor inventor Herbert Kalmus, who also owned the Fernbrook estate in Centerville. Facilities include a restroom, picnic area, lifeguards, snack bar, and bathhouse. Parking $$.

Veterans Beach, on Hyannis Harbor (Lewis Bay), off Ocean Street. This is a good beach for children because the waters are fairly shallow and calm, and it’s a fine place to watch harbor sailboats (because the Hyannis Yacht Club is next door). Facilities include a restroom, bathhouse, lifeguards, a snack bar, swings, grills, and a big wooded area with picnic tables. Parking $$.

Sea Street/Orrin Keyes Beach, on Nantucket Sound, Sea Street. Facilities include a restroom, lifeguards, snack bar, and bathhouse. Parking $$.

Lodging

Hyannis has hordes of nondescript motels and many good family-oriented cottages. If you want a good B&B, stay in one of Barnstable’s other villages.

RESORT MOTOR INN Cape Codder Resort & Spa (508-771-3000; capecodderresort.com), 1225 Route 132 at Bearses Way. About 2 miles from the center of town, this two-story destination property is owned by the Catania family (the Catanias have long owned the Dan’l Webster Inn in Sandwich and the family-style Hearth & Kettle restaurants), and they have poured millions into the Cape Codder. This ultra-family-friendly resort has 257 rooms, an indoor wave pool (complete with 2½-foot waves and waterslides), an indoor/outdoor water park with a 10,000-square-foot wave pool, a three-story medi-spa, two restaurants, a wine bar, a large fitness center, a game room, and tennis. Fractional ownership residences are also available. $$.

COTTAGES & TOWNHOUSES Harbor Village (508-775-7581; harborvillage.com), 160 Marstons Avenue, Hyannisport. Open May to mid-October. Delightfully off the beaten path but still centrally located, these one- to four-bedroom cottages can sleep up to nine people. They’re set on a private, wooded, 17-acre compound within a two-minute walk of Quahog Beach. It doesn’t get much better than this. Each of the 13 cottages has a living room, dining area, fully equipped kitchen, individual heat, a fireplace, a deck or patio with grill, and cable TV. A few have central air and washer/dryer; most have a dishwasher. You’ll need to bring your own beach towels and chairs, though. Weekly rates in-season. $$–$$$.

Capt. Gosnold Village (508-775-9111; captaingosnold.com), 230 Gosnold Street. In a residential area near the harbor, the family-friendly Capt. Gosnold’s is a short walk to three beaches. Children also will enjoy the wooded and grassy grounds with a fenced-in pool and lifeguard, lawn games, and a play area. All rooms have been redecorated, and most of the 24 cottages are spacious and have a private deck and a gas grill. Request a newer cottage with three bedrooms and you’ll also get three bathrooms and four TVs. While you can expect maid service Monday through Saturday and fully equipped kitchens, you’ll have to bring your own beach towels. $–$$$$.

Images Images The Yachtsman (508-771-5454; yachtsmancondo.com), rental office at 500 Ocean Street, Apt. 14. These privately owned townhouse condominiums, with their own private stretch of beach between Kalmus and Veterans Beaches (see Green Space), are right on Lewis Bay. During the summer, about 40 of the 125 units are available for rent. Although the decor varies from one unit to another, all meet certain standards. Multilevel units have a full kitchen, 2½ baths, private sundeck, sunken living room, and two to four bedrooms. About half have water views; half overlook the heated pool. No credit cards. $$$$.

CAPTAIN GOSNOLD COTTAGES

Where to Eat

With more than 150 eateries around town, Hyannis offers everything from mod seafood to romantic Italian. Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants are open year-round.

DINING OUT Naked Oyster (508-778-6500; nakedoyster.com), 410 Main Street. Open L, D. This cosmopolitan and sophisticated bistro offers palate-pleasing seafood and steaks complemented by a wonderful selection of wines by the glass. In addition to excellent raw bar choices, try appetizers like Thai shrimp, tuna tartare, lobster salad, and an oyster sampler. Mains like halibut with lobster meat, swordfish chops, and filet mignon take center stage at night. Whatever you do, don’t miss their silk chocolate martini (at their stylin’ bar) and chocolate crème brûlée (arguably the best on the Cape) . . . or their basil strawberries and chocolate bark. Hip and hopping hats off to Florence Lowell, owner since 2006. L $–$$, D $$–$$$$.

Images Pain D’Avignon (508-778-8588; paindavignon.com), 15 Hinckley Road. Open B, L, D. A delightful surprise! Try rustic French breads, bagels, and home-baked crackers from the oh-so-French-style boulangerie. And from the café, try tantalizing sandwiches like a (warm and open-faced) croque monsieur with ham and Gruyère cheese. (The croque madame offers the same ingredients topped with an egg.) The French dinner fare—coquilles St. Jacques, steak frites, and crème brûlée—is pretty darn excellent too. It’s a bit off the beaten path, but totally worth seeking out, even if the outdoor dining is adjacent to the parking lot. B $–$$, L $$–$$$, D $$$–$$$$.

PAIN D’AVIGNON

Pizza Barbone (508-957-2377; pizzabarbone.com), 390 Main Street. Open L, D. This wood-fired Neapolitan pizza place deserves all the high praise it consistently receives. $–$$.

Alberto’s Ristorante (508-778-1770; albertos.net), 360 Main Street. Open L, D. Thanks to chef-owner Felis Barreiro, Alberto’s has been consistently fabulous, catering to a loyal following since 1984. Elegant and romantic, done up with faux marble and off-white colors, it may look formal, but it doesn’t project an ounce of stuffiness. The service is delightfully professional. The extensive Northern Italian menu features large portions of homemade pasta and regional specialties. Nightly seasonal additions are surprising in their breadth and execution. Despite not having room, I still top off my meal with a rich cappuccino and a decadent dessert sampler. Sidewalk tables are pleasant in the summer, and a jazz pianist draws diners on Friday and Saturday nights year-round. D $$–$$$$.

Images Images Roadhouse Café (508-775-2386; roadhousecafe.com), 488 South Street. Open D. This charming and pleasant place—with polished floors, Oriental carpets, hanging plants, tongue-and-groove ceilings with paddle fans, candlelight, and two fireplaces—is also dependable (if uninspired), thanks to the long tenure of owner Dave Colombo. Come for a romantic interlude or with a group for some fun. The extensive Italian and seafood menu features large portions. Consider splitting a simple main dish and pairing it with a couple of appetizers. Creative, thin-crust pizzas are offered in the Back Door Bistro (see Entertainment), which has a clubby feel with dark paneling and a mahogany piano bar. It also has a large selection of wine by the glass and 22 brands of beer. D $$$–$$$$.

Images

ROADHOUSE CAFÉ

Images Colombo’s (508-790-5700; colomboscafe.com), 544 Main Street. Open L, D. This spacious and mainstream eatery, brought to you by the owner of the Roadhouse Café, has a little something for everyone: from outside dining to an indoor bar and gelato case, from lunchtime sandwiches and salads to intermediate offerings like pizza and pasta to more hefty nighttime selections like grilled salmon and chicken Parmesan. They run a tight ship here. $–$$$.

Black Cat Tavern (508-778-1233; blackcattavern.com), 165 Ocean Street. Open L, D. Local restaurateur Dave Colombo runs the Black Cat, which offers a casual waterfront feel and quite good fried and baked seafood staples—fish-and-chips, scallops, seafood platter—while kicking casual up a notch with the likes of pan-seared scallops with strawberry pineapple risotto and lobster ravioli. Gourmet burgers and salads, too. Stick around for a drink in the piano lounge. L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

EATING OUT Spanky’s Clam Shack (508-771-2770; spankysclamshack.com), 138 Ocean Street. Open L, D, mid-April to mid-October. Right on the harbor near where the sight-seeing boats launch, this casual seafood place is the best of the fry bunch. Portions are huge, the prices are right, and you have a choice of inside or outside dining. Service can be the toughest thing to digest here. The kitschy tune introducing Spanky’s website reflects the good-time atmosphere on site. $$–$$$.

Images Images Baxter’s Boathouse Club and Fish ’n Chips (508-775-7040; baxterscapecod.com), 177 Pleasant Street. Open L, D, mid-April to mid-October. It’s as much about location as it is food here, and even though they serve the same menu throughout the day, I prefer going at lunchtime. Built on an old fish-packing dock near the Steamship Authority terminal, Baxter’s has attracted a crowd since 1956, from beautiful people tying up at the dock to singles meeting at the bar, from families to folks who don’t mind eating on paper plates on a harborfront picnic table. It’s really the best waterfront table in town. The fried and broiled seafood is consistent, too, if not exemplary. $$–$$$.

HYANNIS

Brazilian Grill (508-771-0109; braziliangrill-capecod.com), 680 Main Street. Open L, D. You’d have to fly to Rio for more authentic churrascaria rodizio, a traditional, elaborate all-you-can-eat barbecue buffet of skewered meats. Come hungry or don’t bother. And then don’t bother eating for the rest of the week. The servers sure are friendly here, and the setting is airy at lunchtime. Buffet $$$–$$$$.

Ying’s (508-790-2432; yings.net), 59 Center Street. Open L, D. Ying’s boasts very good pad Thai, Japanese and Korean dishes, noodles, and sushi. The atmosphere here is tranquil, rather like an indoor garden. Maki sushi is half price on Fridays. L $, D $$.

Common Ground Café (508-778-8390; hyanniscommonground.com), 420 Main Street. Open L, D. When you step inside, let your eyes adjust to the darkness for a minute: You’ll find hand-hewn booths resembling hobbit houses and an old-fashioned community (a religious collective, actually) of folks serving honest food. The menu includes a few wholesome sandwiches and wraps, soups, salads, and daily specials. Everything is made from scratch. There is also a juice bar upstairs. $.

Sam Diego’s (508-771-8816; samdiegos.com), 950 Route 132. Open L, D. Decorated with colored lights, colorful serapes, toucans, and sombreros, this huge and hopping place is often full of families. They come for decent southwestern- and Mexican-inspired fare like chicken fajitas, barbecued ribs, burritos, enchiladas, and daily blackboard specials. In warm weather, dine on the large outdoor patio. $–$$.

Spoon and Seed (774-470-4634; spoonandseed.com), 12 Thornton Drive. Open B, L. Have you heard folks raving about these breakfasts and this little family-run, out-of-the-way place? Their “spudnut” (a doughnut made with potatoes) might just make you skip breakfast at your B&B. From the hash and grits to cheesy biscuits and eggs Benny, you really can’t go wrong. For lunch I totally recommend the hippie burger. Hats off to the owners, the Tropeanos. Dishes $.

Tumi Ceviche Bar & Ristorante (508-534-9289; tumiceviche.com), 592 Main Street. Open L, D. I didn’t get a chance to try the tuna ceviche and paella, but I heard great reviews. They offer both Peruvian and Italian dishes, with indoor and patio dining. $$–$$$.

ICE CREAM Katie’s Ice Cream (508-771-6889; katiesicecreamcapecod.com), 570 Main Street. Open mid-April to early September. Everyone seems to end up at this little shop sometime during the day or night for homemade scoops.

DINNER TRAIN Cape Cod Dinner Train (508-771-3800; capetrain.com), 252 Main Street. Operates early May through December with a highly variable schedule. I include this just so you know I haven’t overlooked it; I recommend checking around for its current reputation.

Entertainment

Cape Symphony Orchestra (508-362-1111; capesymphony.org). Performances September through May. The orchestra performs about 15 concerts for children and adults at the 1,400-seat Barnstable High School, 744 West Main Street in Hyannis.

Regal Cape Cod Mall Stadium 12 (508-771-7872), 793 Route 132 at intersection with Route 28, at the Cape Cod Mall.

Images Back Door Bistro at the Roadhouse Café (508-775-2386; roadhousecafe.com), 488 South Street. Check the website for which nights feature jazz and piano throughout the year. It’s de rigueur for Hyannis repeat visitors.

CAPE COD DINNER TRAIN