ORLEANS

Many could argue, with some success, that Orleans’s biggest draw is Nauset Beach (in East Orleans), an Atlantic Ocean barrier beach more than 9 miles long. It can accommodate hundreds of sun seekers and sand-castle builders in summer. But in the off-season, you’ll be practically alone, walking in quiet reflection, observing shorebirds and natural rhythms. It’s a beautifully haunting place during a storm—so long as it’s not a huge storm. Nauset Beach also has historical significance. Gosnold explored it in 1602 and Champlain in 1605. It was the location of the first recorded shipwreck on the eastern seaboard, in 1626, when the Sparrow Hawk ran aground near Pochet. It is the only place in the continental U.S. to be fired upon in the War of 1812 (by the British) and in World War I (in 1918 it was shelled by a German submarine). More recently, two Englishmen set off from nearby Nauset Harbor to row successfully across the Atlantic Ocean.

The real charm of Orleans, which has few historical sights, lies not in the sand but in the waters that surround the town. A large number of fingerlike inlets creep into the eastern shoreline from aptly named Pleasant Bay, dotted with tiny islands. And most of these quiet inlets are accessible via back roads and town landings. Excursion boats explore the rich habitat of Nauset Marsh to the north, while bayside, Rock Harbor is home to the Cape’s most active charter fishing fleet.

Because Routes 6, 6A, and 28 converge in Orleans, traffic is heavy in summer; getting anywhere takes time. But Orleans straddles the two distinct worlds of the Outer Cape and the Lower Cape. On the one hand, Orleans serves as a year-round commercial and retail center for the area. It offers plenty of activities and a variety of dining and lodging options. On the other hand, Orleans has its share of exclusive residential areas and plenty of quiet, waterside spots. In the summer, Orleans balloons to a population of about 22,000 from its year-round count of 6,700.

Orleans is the only Cape town without a Native American or English name. Incorporated in 1797 after separating from Eastham, Orleans was named for Louis-Philippe de Bourbon, Duke of Orléans (and later king of France), who sojourned here in 1797 during his exile.

GUIDANCE Orleans Chamber of Commerce Information Booth (508-255-1386; orleanscapecod.com), 8 Eldredge Park Way (Exit 12 off Route 6A). Booth open late May to mid-October. The administrative office, at 44 Main Street, is open year-round. Orleans publishes a helpful booklet and an excellent free map.

GETTING THERE By car: Take Route 6 east from the Cape Cod Canal for about 48 miles to Exit 12. Route 6A East takes you directly into town.

By bus: The Plymouth & Brockton bus line (508-746-0378; p-b.com) connects Orleans with Hyannis and other Cape towns, as well as with Boston’s Logan Airport. It only stops at the CVS on Main Street.

GETTING AROUND East Orleans Village and Nauset Beach are 3 miles east of Orleans center (which stretches along Route 6A); Rock Harbor and Skaket Beach are 1.5 miles west of the center.

A PERFECT DAY IN ORLEANS

8:00	Get buttery delights from Cottage St. Bakery or the Hot Chocolate Sparrow.
9:00	Kayak around Pleasant Bay or Nauset Marsh.
12:00	Order a simple fish feast at Cap’t Cass Rock Harbor Seafood.
1:00	Read a trashy novel (or existential poetry) at the 9-mile-long Nauset Beach on the Atlantic Ocean.
5:30	Enjoy a highly sophisticated, creative dinner at ABBA.
8:00	Listen to twilight at Rock Harbor while watching the fishing fleet return for the day.
10:00	Enjoy a nightcap at the convivial Joe’s Beach Road Bar & Grille.

By shuttle: The H2O (800-352-7155; capecodrta.org), used more by locals than visitors, travels Route 28 between the Hyannis Transportation Center and Orleans daily in the summer.

PUBLIC RESTROOMS At the information booth and 44 Main Street.

PUBLIC LIBRARY Snow Library (508-240-3760; snowlibrary.org), 67 Main Street at Route 28.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Orleans Medical Center (508-255-9577; 508-255-8825; orleansmedicalcenter.org), 204 Main Street or Exit 12 off Route 6.

To See

Meeting House Museum (508-240-1329; orleanshistoricalsociety.org), 3 River Road at Main and School Streets. Open July and August. Built in 1833 as a Universalist meetinghouse, and now operated by the Orleans Historical Society, the museum contains artifacts documenting Orleans’s early history. Among the items are an assessor’s map of Orleans homes in 1858, photographs, Native American artifacts, and a bicentennial quilt. The building itself is a fine example of Greek Revival Doric architecture. Down at Rock Harbor, the museum also has a Coast Guard rescue boat that was used during a 1952 shipwreck off the Chatham coast. That 32 people piled into this tiny boat is beyond belief. You can board the boat; in fact, following restoration it now once again travels the waters on Cape Cod and beyond. A tour schedule is posted on-site. Free.

French Cable Station Museum (508-240-1735; frenchcablestationmuseum.org), Route 28 at Cove Road. Open June through September. Before the advent of the information superhighway and wireless communications, there was the French Cable Station. Direct transmissions from Brest, France (via a 3,000-mile underwater cable), were made from this station between 1890 and 1941, at which time transmissions were automated. Among the relayed news items: Charles Lindbergh’s successful crossing of the Atlantic and his 1927 Paris landing, and Germany’s invasion of France. Much of the original equipment and instruments are still set up and in working order. (Alas, the cable is no longer operational.) The displays, put together with the help of the Smithsonian Institution, are a bit intimidating, but someone is on hand to unravel the mysteries. Free.

FRENCH CABLE STATION

Jonathan Young Windmill (508-240-1329), 27–33 Route 6A at Windmill Park Conservation Area. Open July and August. This circa-1720 gristmill was built in South Orleans, transported to the center of town in 1839, moved to Hyannisport in 1897, and returned to Orleans in 1987. Although it’s no longer operational, the windmill is significant because of its intact milling machinery. Inside you’ll find interpretive exhibits, including a display of a 19th-century miller’s handiwork, as well as a guide who might explain the origins of “keep your nose to the grindstone.” (Because grain is highly combustible when it’s ground, a miller who wasn’t paying close attention to his grain might not live to see the end of the day.) The setting, overlooking Town Cove, provides a nice backdrop for a picnic. Free.

JONATHAN YOUNG WINDMILL

ROCK HARBOR

Rock Harbor, on Cape Cod Bay, at the end of Rock Harbor Road from Main Street. This protected harbor, the town’s first commercial and maritime center, served as a packet landing for ships transporting goods to Plymouth, Boston, and Maine. When the harbor filled with silt, several old houses in the area were built from the lumber of dismantled saltworks. During the War of 1812, Orleans militiamen turned back Britain’s HMS Newcastle from Rock Harbor. And what about those dead trees in the water? They mark the harbor channel that is dredged annually for the charter fishing fleet. This is a popular sunset spot for watching the boats come in, if you can tolerate the bugs.

To Do

BASEBALL The Orleans Firebirds (508-255-0793; orleansfirebirds.com) play ball at Eldredge Park Field, off Route 28 at Eldredge Park Way, from mid-June to early August. Their clinics for boys and girls begin in late June. As many as 60 or 70 young sluggers might show up, but there is always a good ratio of instructors to children. $$$$$+ for the first week, or $$$ per day.

BICYCLING & RENTALS The Cape Cod Rail Trail runs near the center of town, right past Orleans Cycle (508-255-9115; orleanscycle.com), 26 Main Street, which is open April through December. $$ for four hours.

BOAT EXCURSIONS Nauset Marsh Cruise (508-349-2615; wellfleetbay.org), Town Cove, behind Goose Hummock, off Route 6A. Mid-June to mid-October. Sponsored by the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, these two-hour pontoon voyages do not depart daily, so it’s best to call for departure times and days. Adult trips focus on birding and the natural history of the marsh and depart with high tides; kids’ trips are synced with low tide, all the better for interactive exploration. Along with informative on-board interpretation, kids haul traps, unearth worms and steamers, and participate in scavenger hunts. $$$$$.

BOWLING Orleans Bowling Center (508-255-0636; orleansbowlingcenter.com), 191 Route 6A. OK, so you didn’t come to the Cape to go bowling, but if it’s raining and you’ve got kids in the car, it’s an idea.

FISHING & SHELLFISHING Procure freshwater and saltwater fishing licenses and regulations online (www.mass.gov/eea/agencies/dfg/licensing). Then head to Crystal Lake, off Monument Road (see Green Space), which has perch, trout, and bass. There are also a dozen fresh- and saltwater town landings in Orleans.

Goose Hummock (508-255-0455; goose.com), Town Cove, 15 Route 6A at the rotary. This outfitter fulfills all fishing-related needs, including rod rentals, fishing trips, instruction, and wintertime fly-tying seminars. Shellfishing equipment, too. The great staff offers lots of free advice and information.

GOOSE HUMMOCK

SCENIC DRIVES

Pleasant Bay, Little Pleasant Bay, Nauset Harbor, and Town Cove creep deep into the Orleans coastline at about a dozen named inlets, ponds, and coves. With the detailed centerfold map from the Orleans Chamber of Commerce guide in hand (see Guidance), head down the side roads off Tonset Road, Hopkins Lane, Nauset Heights Road, and Barley Neck Road to the town landings. After passing beautifully landscaped residences, you’ll be rewarded with serene, pastoral scenes of beach grass and sailboats. Directly off Route 28 heading toward Chatham there are two particularly lovely ponds with saltwater outlets: Arey’s Pond (off Arey’s Lane from Route 28) and Kescayogansett Pond (off Monument Road from Route 28). There’s a little picnic area with limited parking at Kent’s Point near here, off Frost Fish Lane from Monument Road.

Rock Harbor Charter Fleet (508-255-9757; rockharborcharters.com), Rock Harbor. Trips daily mid-May to early October. These 13, U.S. Coast Guard–licensed captains and boats make up the largest charter fleet in New England. All offer four- and eight-hour trips for groups in search of bluefish and striped bass.

FITNESS CLUB Willy’s Gym (508-255-6826; 508-255-6370; willysgym.com), 21 Old Colony Way, off West Road from Route 6A, Orleans Marketplace. One of the Cape’s best fitness centers, Willy’s has an extensive array of cardiovascular machines, free weights, sauna and steam rooms, classes, a juice bar, and supervised childcare. Lap swimmers will appreciate the indoor unheated pool. $$.

MINI-GOLF Cape Escape (508-240-1791; capeescapeadventures.com), 14 Canal Road, off Route 6A near the Orleans rotary. Open April to mid-October.

MODEL RAILROADING Nauset Model Railroad Club (nausetmodelrailroadclub.com), Hilltop Plaza (around the back), 180 Route 6A. And now for something completely different, head to this open house (Wednesdays and Fridays) as an alternative to more common Cape Cod activities for kiddos and aficionados of any age. Free.

CANOEING AND KAYAKING

The protected, calm waters of northern Pleasant Bay offer delightful paddling opportunities. And the folks at Goose Hummock (508-255-2620; goose.com), off Route 6A on Town Cove, are the experts in this neck of the bay. Talk to them about Southern Pleasant Bay, for instance; it can be tricky for the uninitiated. Pick up the Nauset Harbor tide chart and rent a canoe or recreational kayak ($$$ for three hours). Parking is limited at the town landings, but it’s free. If you’re new to kayaking, take their three-hour introductory course ($$$$$+) to learn basic paddle strokes and skills. Otherwise, they have a huge array of other courses and specialty tours: intro to kayaking, tidal currents and navigation, open-water kayaking, sunrise tours, kids in kayaks, and more.

PADDLEBOARDING SUPfari Adventures (508-205-9087; supfariadventures.com), multiple locations in Brewster and Orleans. Stand-up paddleboarding brought from Maui to the Cape by Brewster’s former harbormaster. Great multigenerational fun. $$$$.

SAILING Arey’s Pond Boat Yard (508-255-0994, sailing school; areyspondboatyard.com), 43 Arey’s Lane off Route 28, South Orleans. June through September. They offer 10 hours of beginning and intermediate sailing instruction to groups of kids, July through August, over the course of five weekdays. Private lessons by appointment.

SKATEBOARDING Jean Finch Skateboard Park, located at the middle school fields, 70 Route 28. Helmets required. $.

SKATING Charles Moore Arena (508-255-5902; charlesmoorearena.org), 23 O’Connor’s Way; look for signs near the information booth (see Guidance). Although this big arena is reserved most of the year, public skating times are set aside (including Friday nights when it’s strobe lit for kids).

SUPFARI ADVENTURES

SHARK AWARENESS FLAGS: RECENT ARRIVALS TO CAPE COD

Purple flags emblazoned with a distinctive solid white shark shape debuted in 2016 on the Atlantic Coast beaches. The first time I spotted one (at Head of the Meadows), I didn’t understand why people were still in the water and there were August crowds along the shore.

Conversations with lifeguards, tour guides, and locals provided highly useful intel. Apparently flags are not necessarily up because of a shark sighting on any particular day, but to heighten awareness that these enormous, mammal-eating creatures are becoming more frequent visitors to Cape Cod waters. Why? The seal population has exploded in recent years; you’ll see them sunning on sand bars and exchanging wide-eyed stares with humans.

Cape Cod’s sharks are becoming better known to its resident researchers; apparently lone sharks (pardon the pun) have adopted particular neighborhoods. Large Marge has staked out Orleans, while Mary Lee has aligned herself with upscale Chatham. It’s reassuring that a contingent of dedicated experts are spotting, tagging, and monitoring these sea giants, gaining knowledge about their behavior, and have a ready system for communication if and when their presence becomes a threat.

The newly formed Atlantic White Shark Conservancy (atlanticwhiteshark.org), working to “increase knowledge of Atlantic white sharks and change public perception to conserve the species and ensure biologically diverse marine ecosystems,” has developed an app called Sharktivity. It allows users to follow shark whereabouts and receive beach-specific notifications of sightings. Beach managers will replace purple flags with red ones and visitors will be kept out of the water for at least one hour following a sighting.

Sharks, I am glad to report, are not especially interested in dining on Homo sapiens. They will, however, “gum” a person who crosses their path to investigate palatability, resulting in potential severe injury (or worse), given dimensions averaging 15 feet in length and a ton in poundage. Still, if you mind the flags and respect these creatures’ space on the still-rare occasions when they happen by, your safety is assured.

—H. Laurie Yankowitz

SPECIAL PROGRAMS Academy of Performing Arts (508-255-5510; 508-255-1963; apacape.org), 5 Giddiah Hill Road. The academy offers instruction (to all ages) in dance, fitness, music, and theater. Their weekly July and August sessions (concentrating on musical theater, ballet, and drama production) culminate with a performance. Inquire about children’s summertime matinees.

SURFING Nauset Surf (508-255-4742; nausetsports.com), Jeremiah Square, Route 6A at the Orleans rotary. Open April through January, but rentals are only provided in-season: surfboards, paddleboards, skimboards, boogie boards, and wet suits.

TENNIS You’ll find three public courts at Eldredge Park (off Route 28 at Eldredge Park Way) and three at the elementary school (off Eldredge Park Way), both with seasonal fees.

Green Space

BEACHES Nauset Beach (508-240-3780), on the Atlantic Ocean, off Beach Road, beyond the center of East Orleans. It doesn’t get much better than this: good bodysurfing waves and 7 miles of sandy Atlantic shoreline backed by a low dune. (Only about a half-mile stretch is covered by lifeguards; much of the rest is deserted.) A gently sloping grade makes this a good beach for children. Facilities include an in-season lifeguard on weekends, restrooms, a snack bar, a boardwalk over dunes, outside showers, chairs and umbrellas for rent, and plenty of parking (parking is rarely a problem). Parking $–$$, depending on the day/month.

NAUSET BEACH

Four-wheel-drive vehicles with permit are allowed onto Nauset Beach. Certain areas, though, may be restricted during bird breeding and nesting periods. Obtain permits at the Nauset administrative offices, Parks and Beaches Department (508-240-3775), 18 Bay Ridge Lane.

Skaket Beach on Cape Cod Bay, off West Road. Popular with families, as you can walk a mile out into the bay at low tide; at high tide the beach grass is covered. The parking lot often fills up early, creating a 30-minute wait for a space. Parking $$ in season. (The parking fee is transferable to Nauset Beach on the same day.) Facilities include an in-season lifeguard, a bike rack, restrooms, a boardwalk, outside showers, and a snack bar.

Pleasant Bay Beach, Route 28, South Orleans. A saltwater bayside inlet beach with limited roadside parking.

PONDS Crystal Lake (off Monument Road and Route 28) and Pilgrim Lake (off Herring Brook Road from Route 28) are both good for swimming. Pilgrim Lake has an in-season lifeguard, restrooms, changing rooms, picnic tables, a dock, and a small beach; parking stickers only. At Crystal Lake, parking is free but limited; no facilities.

WALKS & PICNICS Paw Wah Point Conservation Area, off Namequoit Road from Eldredge Park Way, has a loop trail leading to a nice little beach with picnic tables.

Rhododendron Display Garden, Route 28 and Main Street. A nice place for a picnic.

Sea Call Farm, Tonset Road, just north of the intersection with Main Street. Overlooking Town Cove, this is another fine picnic spot.

Lodging

Lodging in Orleans is a very good value. You’ll find everything from super-stellar and friendly B&Bs to almost-beachfront motels and family motor inns.

RESORT MOTOR INN The Cove (508-255-1203; thecoveorleans.com), 13 South Orleans Road. This modest complex of 47 rooms and suites is situated on the waterfront along Town Cove and close to bike paths. Pluses include a free boat tour of Town Cove and Nauset Beach; an outdoor heated pool; a dock for sunning and fishing; and picnic tables and grills that are well situated to exploit the view. Deluxe rooms have a sitting area and sofa bed; most waterfront rooms have a shared deck overlooking the water; two-room suites have a kitchen (some with a fireplace and private deck); and inn rooms have a bit more decor (some also have a fireplace and private deck). $–$$.

BED & BREAKFASTS A Little Inn on Pleasant Bay (508-255-0780; alittleinnonpleasantbay.com), 654 South Orleans Road. Open May to late October. I affectionately dub my favorite place to stay, marvelously and tastefully renovated, “a little slice of heaven on high.” The European innkeepers (Sandra, Pamela, and Bernd) have transformed this 1798 house into a priceless diamond with commanding views of Pleasant Bay and a thoroughly contemporary aesthetic. No other B&B on the Cape comes close to matching their bountiful, European buffet breakfast—especially when it’s taken outside in summer. Formerly a stop on the Underground Railroad, the main house has plenty of common space, including a big living room with windows all around. It’s all quite conducive to luxuriating. Guest rooms feature whitewashed barn board and lovely bathroom tilework; some have private decks or patio. Blue stone patios grace the front and back yards, which are beautifully landscaped. The Bay Rooms (carved from a former paddock) and the carriage house have also been renovated with similar doses of grace and style. Late-afternoon sherry and access to a private beach and dock are all included. $$$.

A LITTLE INN ON PLEASANT BAY

NAUSET HOUSE INN

Nauset House Inn (508-255-2195; 800-771-5508; nausethouseinn.com), Beach Road, East Orleans. Open mid-April through October. These 14 rooms (eight with private bath) have so very much going for them: The inn has genuinely hospitable hosts; it’s half a mile from Nauset Beach; guest rooms are thoughtfully and tastefully appointed; afternoon drinks and cheese are a treat; and a greenhouse conservatory is just one of the many quiet places to relax. Oh, and it’s the only B&B on the Cape where you order from among an array of breakfast entrées! You’ll have Diane Johnson, her daughter Cindy, and son-in-law John to thank: They’ve owned and constantly upgraded the 1810 farmhouse since the early 1980s. Rooms in the carriage house are generally larger than inn rooms, while the rustic cottage, with peaked ceiling, is quite private and cozy. There’s immense attention to detail here. $–$$.

The Parsonage Inn (508-255-8217; 888-422-8217; parsonageinn.com), 202 Main Street, East Orleans. Guests are quite happy here, as are innkeepers Jo-Anne and Richard Hoad. This pleasant, rambling, late-18th-century house has eight guest rooms comfortably furnished with a blend of contemporary furnishings and country antiques. (Only two rooms have adjoining walls, so there is plenty of privacy.) Wide-pine floors, canopy beds, and newly redone bathrooms are common. Willow, the studio apartment, has a kitchenette and private entrance, while the roomy Barn, with exposed beams and eaves, has a sitting area and sofa bed. $$.

PARSONAGE INN

Orleans Inn (508-255-2222; 800-863-3039; orleansinn.com), 3 Old County Road. Near the Orleans rotary and with a crisp mansard roof, this inn commands a prominent position as you enter town. You can’t miss it. Ed and Laurie Maas’s 11 rooms and suites are a pleasant surprise, made more so by the inn’s friendly policies: There is no cancellation fee, no deposit required, and they accept one-nighters in the summer. That might lead you to believe that there’s something wrong with the rooms, but there isn’t. Rooms are located off a long hallway, and they’re quite pleasant. Half overlook Nauset Bay; for $50 more, you obviously want one of these, which also have a fireplace! Full breakfast included. Rooms $$, suites $$$–$$$$.

MOTELS Nauset Knoll Motor Lodge (508-255-2364; nausetknollmotorlodge.com), 237 Beach Road, East Orleans. Open mid-April to mid-October. Nauset Knoll, a few steps from Nauset Beach, is often booked long before other places because of the expansive views of dune and ocean. You can watch the sun as it rises over the ocean from lawn chairs atop the lodge’s namesake knoll. The 12 simply furnished rooms (à la 1950s) with large picture windows are in three separate units, distinctively modeled after a barn, shed, and Cape-style cottage. $–$$.

RENTAL HOUSES & COTTAGES The Rental Company at William Raveis (508-240-2222; capecodvacation.com), 213 Main Street, East Orleans.

Where to Eat

Orleans has an excellent variety of restaurants.

DINING OUT ABBA (508-255-8144; abbarestaurant.com), 89 Old Colony Way. Open D. Serving contemporary and sophisticated Mediterranean food (with a Thai flair), this lively bistro (read loud with tightly spaced tables) would be perfectly at home in Boston’s South End. Since it burst onto the scene in 2001, it’s taken this part of the Cape by storm. Chef-owner Erez Pinhas and his front-of-the-house partner, Christina Bratberg, have a flair for creating mod spaces and inviting plates. The urbane menu changes often, but look for the luscious likes of black sea bass with fava beans, grilled foie gras with creamy lentils, or an ab-fab falafel with Israeli salsa in a tahini amba sauce. House specialties include a sublime shrimp, curries, or organic tofu pad thai. The wine list is impressive and desserts are lovely: the poached strawberries and rhubarb in a shredded phyllo is killer. $$–$$$$.

Joe’s Beach Road Bar & Grille (Barley Neck Inn) (508-255-0212; barleyneck.com), 5 Beach Road, East Orleans. Open D. Joe’s gets it—both for atmosphere and cuisine. Joe’s has a delightful split personality: One side has almost-formal dining, one is almost reserved for families, and the other is a hopping (upscale-ish) bar-happy place with barn-board walls and a large fieldstone fireplace. All you really need to know, though, is that locals continue to flock here even as the summer crowds swell. It’s packed for good reason. Look for a variety of lobster dishes, lots of New American seafood dishes prepared with flair, as well as dishes featuring veggies from their organic garden. Chef Will Hollinger knows how to please his patrons. For lighter appetites and thinner wallets, there’s pizza, pasta, soup, and main-course salads. $$–$$$.

JOE’S

Nauset Beach Club (508-255-8547; nausetbeachclub.com), 222 Main Street, East Orleans. Open D. Neither a club nor on the beach, this buzzy bistro has a warm and welcoming feeling, thanks to proprietor Arthur Duquette. For Northern Italian cuisine, featuring local seafood, homemade pastas, and plenty of meat and game dishes, it has few rivals. On my last visit, the ravioli di zuccaro et ricotta, risotto del giorno, carre d’agnello arrosto (lamb), and daily special of sea bass were all executed with aplomb. Although tables are set with linens, crystal, and china, it has a relaxed atmosphere thanks to the warming fireplace and friendly service. The wine list is quite impressive. I enjoy this place more each season. $$$.

Mahoney’s Atlantic Bar & Grill (508-255-5505; mahoneysatlantic.com), 28 Main Street. Open D. Consistent and appealing across-the-board, this cozy storefront bistro serves a surprisingly sophisticated menu. It’s firing on all cylinders (except maybe service). Expect contemporary New American dishes like pan-roasted lobster, tuna sashimi, and roasted chicken. During my last visit the striped bass tasted like it was just off the boat, as did the sashimi apps. Salads, creative pasta dishes, and a few veggie dishes round out the choices. It’s hard to go wrong here. Their lively and upscale martini bar (where you can get lighter dishes) also sports a few satellite TVs, all the better to catch a Sox game. The place is packed in the winter, which is always a good sign. Watch for live entertainment intermittently throughout the year. Bar menu $, D $$–$$$.

Captain Linnell House (508-255-3400; linnell.com), 137 Skaket Beach Road. Open D. For a truly lovely dining experience, let chef-owner Bill Conway’s fine fare match the gracious ease of this former sea captain’s mansion. The traditional dining is romantic, with candles, fine china, and linens. One dining room overlooks a small water garden; the salon overlooks the side garden. Start with fabulous chowder or lobster bisque and move to scrod in parchment with crab and shrimp or roasted pork tenderloin. Rack of lamb specials are always popular. Chef Conway will also dish out small portions for children with refined palates. If you’re seated by 5:30 PM, you’ll receive a complimentary lobster bisque or chowder and dessert with your dinner. It’s one of the best deals in the land! Bill and his wife, Shelly, have owned and been restoring this gem since 1988. Prix fixe or à la carte, $$$.

The Beacon Room (508-255-2211; beaconroom.com), 23 West Road. Open L, D. For casual fine dining on the way to Skaket Beach, this intimate bistro offers sizable portions of well-presented dishes at reasonable prices. Dinnertime dishes range from pasta and lamb (quite popular) to seafood and chicken saltimbocca. Sandwiches and burgers are offered at lunch. No reservations, but you can call ahead for dinner. L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

NAUSET BEACH CLUB

CAPTAIN LINNELL HOUSE

EATING OUT Cap’t Cass Rock Harbor Seafood, 117 Rock Harbor Road. Open L, D, mid-April to mid-October. Straight out of a movie set, with everything except the prices preserved, this classic harborside lobster shack is adorned with colorful buoys on the outside and checkered tablecloths on the inside. As for the food, it’s a cut above: The lobster roll hasn’t a shred of lettuce or breading in it; the she-crab stew is outrageously delectable; and the homemade chowder and fish-and-chips are pretty darn good, too. The menu is posted on cardboard, as it has been since 1958. There really was an 80-something-year-old Captain Cass, by the way. But today the “shack” is run by the fish market next door. BYOB. No credit cards. L $$, D $$–$$$.

CAP’T CASS

Land Ho! (508-255-5165; land-ho.com), 38 Main Street. Open L, D. A favorite local hangout since 1969 (with lines out the door in the summertime), John Murphy’s place is very colorful (literally), from red-and-white-checked tablecloths, to old business signs hanging from the ceiling, to a large blackboard menu. Newspapers hang on a wire to separate the long bar from the dining area. Beyond club sandwiches, fried seafood dishes, and great burgers, look for specialties like fish-and-chips, BBQ ribs, stuffed clams, clam pie, and kale soup. With the addition of sashimi and grilled tuna, the menu is also going a bit upscale these days. But they always have draft beer. You’ll find lots of families, college students, and old-time locals here. There’s live music Thursday through Saturday. $$.

Guapo’s Tortilla Shack (508-255-3338; guaposcapecod.com), Staples Plaza, off Route 6A. See Eating Out in “Brewster.”

Sir Cricket’s Fish ’n Chips (508-255-4453; nausetfish.com/sir-cricket-fish-n-chips), 38 Route 6A. Love this place. This tidy hole-in-the-wall dishes out fast pints of fried seafood, British-style fish-and-chips, and mixed platters (scallops, oysters, and clams are the most popular). Kids might prefer chicken tenders and hot dogs. After the beach, plan on take-out, as there are only a couple of tables. $$.

LAND HO

Orleans Inn (508-255-2222; orleansinn.com), 3 Old County Road. Open L, D. This waterfront eatery has really upped its offerings to the caliber of “decent” lately, and folks are flocking here because of the prime water views. Go easy with the expectations and you’ll be thrilled. The traditional-feeling dining room offers surf and turf, sandwiches, fried seafood platters, and salads. Dine and have drinks on the deck and you’ll be raving. Welcoming service is learned top down from the hands-on owners. $$.

The Lobster Claw (508-255-1800; lobsterclaw.com), 42 Cranberry Highway, near the Orleans rotary. Open L, D, daily April to mid-October. You want your basic broiled, grilled, fried seafood served up with that nautical-tourist look? Look no further. Since 1970 the Berig family has been dishing up seafood at their large, convenient, family-style restaurant. Proudly maintained and decorated with that requisite motif, The Lobster Claw serves straightforward preparations like delicately broiled fisherman’s platters, crabcakes, and fried clams. Lobster sandwiches and salads are popular at lunch. Early specials from 4 PM to 5:30 PM, and a “waiting lounge” upstairs. L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

Old Jailhouse Tavern (508-255-5245; jailhousetavern.com), 28 West Road. Open L, D. Slightly boisterous by night, more sedate by day, the tavern is a decent choice when everyone in your party wants something different: nachos, soup and salad, fish-and-chips, or a broiled seafood sampler. Or when you have late-night munchies. How’s that for a rousing endorsement? Eat in one of the booths, on the atriumlike terrace overlooking the garden, at the long oak bar, or within the rock walls of the old jail. In the early 1800s the town constable offered the use of his front bedroom, complete with bars on the windows, as an overnight lockup facility. No reservations are taken, but call ahead anyway, just in case. $$–$$$.

SIR CRICKETS

THE LOBSTER CLAW

The Hole in One (508-255-3740; theholecapecod.com), 98 Route 6A within Main Street Square. Open B, L. The Hole is a pleasant and airy place, a real local hangout for turkey subs or BLTs. It’s packed at breakfast time, when eggs-your-way and a short stack of pancakes rule, and friendly all day. You gotta try their hand-cut doughnuts. $.

SNACKS, ICE CREAM, & COFFEE The Hot Chocolate Sparrow (508-240-2230; hotchocolatesparrow.com), 5 Old Colony Way, behind CVS on Route 6A. Open early to late. On the rail trail (with a convenient window for ice cream), this place is on my short list of never-miss-driving-by-without-stopping-in-for-something-anything! Proprietor Marje Sparrow sends her staff to “espresso lab” to make sure they know the hows and whys of making a consistent cup. Without a doubt, they make the best cappuccino, lattes, and hot chocolate between Beantown and Provincetown . . . not to mention frozen espresso drinks like “Affogato” (with soft-serve ice cream), “The Bash” (with fresh raspberries), and old-fashioned freshly squeezed lemonade. Come at 7 AM, when the scones and croissants pour out of the ovens. Or come whenever, because all cookies are made on the premises. In addition to an overflowing blackboard menu, they also make luscious hand-dipped chocolates and sweet treats. The candy counter is filled with treats like “bark,” chock-full of pecans and cranberries, or peppermint or myriad other temptations. Marje’s big space is a terrific place to hang out (with de rigueur free WiFi).

THE HOT CHOCOLATE SPARROW

Cottage St. Bakery (508-255-2821; cottagestreetbakery.com), 5 Cottage Street near Routes 6A and 28. This European-style bakery, buttering up the community since 1984, has a number of oddly named specialties, including “Dirt Bombs,” an old-fashioned French doughnut recipe that requires baking, not frying. Their breads are also great. Knead I say more? OK, I will: You can get homemade soups, lasagna, chicken pies, and sandwiches here, too. There are a few indoor and outdoor tables.

Village Farm Market (508-255-1949), 199 Main Street, East Orleans. Not your average farm stand, you can assemble a gourmand’s feast here with cold pastas, roasted chicken, sesame noodles, baked goods, and deli sandwiches. There’s a salad bar and a full-service bakery, too.

Jo Mama’s (508-255-0255; jomamascapecod.com), 125 Route 6A. Bagel sandwiches, smoothies, health tonics, and fair trade coffee. This mod little space has a few tables.

Phoenix Fruit & Vegetable (508-255-5306; capecodorganicproduce.com), 14 Cove Road. This tiny shop is a delight for foodies. If you have cooking facilities, you’ll appreciate organic greens, locally made clam pies, and hearty Pain d’Avignon bread.

COTTAGE STREET BAKERY

Sundae School Ice Cream Parlor (508-255-5473; sundaeschool.com), 210 Main Street, East Orleans. Open late May to mid-September. Try the sublime black raspberry or Grape-Nuts ice cream.

See also Orleans Whole Food Store under Selective Shopping.

FISH MARKETS Young’s Fish Market (508-255-3366; nausetfish.com/youngs -fish-market), Rock Harbor. Open late May to early September. If you don’t like to cook lobster, place your order here by 4:30 PM (the earlier, the better) and they’ll do it for you. Their lobster rolls are also good. The market, by the way, has been in the Harrison family since 1962, when they bought it from the Youngs.

Entertainment

Academy Playhouse (508-255-1963; apacape.org), 120 Main Street. This 162-seat playhouse, in the 1873 Old Town Hall, and its resident theater company (established in 1975) host 10 to 12 dramas, comedies, and musicals each year. Think popular productions like Grease, Cinderella, and Biloxi Blues. Their eagerly awaited April event brings established and unknown Cape writers (who have been holed up working all winter) together with audiences. Thankfully (even if it’s only needed for a couple of sweltering weeks) the playhouse is now air-conditioned. $$$.

YOUNG’S FISH MARKET

Hog Island Beer Company (508-255-2337; hogislandbeerco.com), 28 West Road. Operated by and attached to the Old Jailhouse Tavern, Hog Island specializes in IPAs (and maybe 4 to 8 other beers on tap) and fun (in the form of a tons of indoor and outdoor games). It’s a great place to hang with pals—and often lots of families. $-$$.

Selective Shopping

Unless otherwise noted, all shops are open year-round.

ANTIQUES Pleasant Bay Antiques (508-255-0930; pleasantbayantiques.com), 540 Route 28, South Orleans. Most of these high-quality, 18th- and 19th-century American antiques come from area residents rather than auctions. They’re displayed in a lovely old barn.

Continuum (508-255-8513), 7 Route 28. Dan Johnson sells expertly restored antique lamps and fixtures from the Victorian to the art deco period.

ACADEMY PLAYHOUSE

IF YOU ONLY STOP AT ONE LOWER CAPE GALLERY, MAKE IT THIS ONE.

Addison Art Gallery (508-255-6200; addisonart.com), 43 Route 28. Helen Addison represents both new and established artists working in realistic and traditional realms. Look for oils, watercolors, limited-edition prints, egg tempuras, and sculpture. It’s comfortable for browsing and buying, for serious collectors and novices. Saturday openings throughout the summer.

ADDISON ART GALLERY

ART GALLERIES Left Bank Gallery (508-247-9172; leftbankgallery.com), 8 Cove Road. One of the best galleries on the Cape, with ceramics, glass, jewelry, and furniture. The owner, Audrey Parent, has a good eye.

Tree’s Place (508-255-1330; treesplace.com), 60 Route 6A at Route 28. Tree’s offers a vast collection of unusual gifts (like kaleidoscopes and antique jewelry) displayed throughout nine small rooms; an excellent collection of representational New England painters; and a tile shop. Meet-the-artist champagne receptions.

ARTISANS Nauset Lantern Shop (800-899-2660; nausetlanternshop.com), 52 Route 6A. Michael Joly expertly handcrafts copper and brass Colonial- and Early American–style lanterns. Most of the nautical and onion lanterns are for exterior use, but he also makes sconces and indoor accessories. Watch him work.

Kemp Pottery (508-255-5853; kemppottery.com), 9 Cranberry Highway, near the Orleans rotary. Father Steven and son Matt Kemp create unusual designs using Nauset Beach sand. They have functional porcelain and stoneware pieces like lamps, platters, mirrors, dinner sets, and bathroom sinks, as well as less common decorative objects for home and garden, like pagodas and torsos. They also make fountains and tile.

KEMP POTTERY

BOOKSTORES Booksmith/Musicsmith of Orleans (508-255-4590), Orleans Marketplace, 136 Route 6A. Paperbacks and best-sellers.

Main Street Books (508-255-3343; mainstreetbooksonline.com), 46 Main Street. The husband-and-wife team of Janis and Don have presided over a small but worthy selection of titles since 1975.

HONEY CANDLE CO

BIRD WATCHERS GENERAL STORE

CLOTHING Karol Richardson (508-255-3944; karolrichardson.com), 47 Main Street. Stylish women’s clothing.

FARMERS’ MARKET Orleans Farmers’ Market (orleansfarmersmarket.com), Old Colony Way near Depot Square. Pick up local produce 8 AM–noon every Saturday from mid-May to late November.

SPECIAL SHOPS Bird Watcher’s General Store (800-562-1512; birdwatchersgeneralstore.com), 36 Route 6A near the Orleans rotary. If it pertains to birds or watchers of birds, this store has it: bird feeders in every size and shape, birdseed in barrels (a ton of seed is sold daily), bird note cards, bird kitchen magnets, bird playing cards. As important as commerce is, though, this place is an invaluable resource for news of where and when birds have been sighted or will be sighted. (This place isn’t just for the birds!)

Honey Candle Co (508-255-7031; honeycandle.com), 37 Main Street. The light is bright; the scent is natural and sweet. That’s because Honey Candle offers candles made entirely from beeswax.

Oceana (508-240-1414; oceanacapecod.com), 1 Main Street Square. Carol Wright stocks lovely household items, watercolors, glass, and jewelry inspired by the sea and nature.

ORLEANS WHOLE FOOD STORE

Orleans Whole Food Store (508-255-6540; orleanswholefoodstore.com), 46 Main Street, Orleans. Healthy foods, lunches-to-go, vitamins, books, and items that promote holistic living.

Cape Cod Photo & Art Supply (508-255-0476; capecodphotoandart.com), 60 Route 6A, inside Tree’s Place. All things digital, one-hour film processing, and painting supplies if the wonderful Cape Cod light inspires you.

Special Events

Annual: Because print guidebooks circulate for years, and because events are so changeable, I normally only include big annual events around which you’d want to plan. In this case, I suggest checking orleanscapecod.com.