NANTUCKET

Thirty miles out to sea, Nantucket was called “that far away island” by Native Americans. Just 14 by 3.5 miles in area, Nantucket is the only place in America that is simultaneously an island, a county, and a town. In 1659 Thomas Mayhew, who had purchased Nantucket sight unseen (he was more interested in Martha’s Vineyard), sold it to Tristram Coffin and eight of his friends for £30 and “two Beaver Hatts.” These “original purchasers” quickly sold half-shares to craftsmen whose skills they would require to build a community.

When Mayhew arrived, there were more than 3,000 Native American residents, who taught the settlers which crops to farm and how to spear whales from shore. By the early 1700s, the number of settlers had grown to more than 300, and the number of Natives had shrunk to less than 800, primarily because of disease. (The last Native descendant died on-island in 1854.)

In 1712, when Captain Hussey’s sloop was blown out to sea, he harpooned the first sperm whale islanders had ever seen. For the next 150 years, whaling dominated the island’s economy. The ensuing prosperity allowed the island’s population to climb to 10,000. In comparison, there are also about 10,500 year-rounders today.

Nantucket sea captains traveled the world to catch whales and to trade, and they brought back great fortunes. By the late 1700s, trade was booming with England, and in 1791 the Beaver, owned by islander William Rotch, rounded Cape Horn and forged an American trade route to the Pacific Ocean. Fortunes were also made in the Indian Ocean—hence, Nantucket’s India Street. Speaking of place names, the nearby village of ’Sconset takes its name from the native Indian for “near the great whale bone.” It was first settled three centuries ago as a whaling outpost, around a lookout tower used for spotting whales.

In its heyday, Nantucket Harbor overflowed with smoke and smells from blacksmith shops, cooperages, shipyards, and candle factories. More than 100 whaling ships sailed in and out of Nantucket. But when ships grew larger to allow for their longer voyages at sea, they couldn’t get across the shallow shoals and into Nantucket Harbor. The industry began moving to Martha’s Vineyard and New Bedford.

At the height of the whaling industry in 1846, the “Great Fire,” which began in a hat shop on Main Street, ignited whale oil at the harbor. The catastrophic blaze wiped out the harbor and one-third of the town. Although most citizens began to rebuild immediately, other adventurous and energetic souls were enticed to go west in search of gold in 1849. When kerosene replaced whale oil in the 1850s as a less expensive fuel, it was the final blow to the island’s maritime economy. By 1861 there were only 2,000 people on-island.

BRANT POINT LIGHTHOUSE

NANTUCKET HARBOR

MODERN DAY TOURISM

Although tourism began soon after the Civil War and picked up with the advent of the railroad to ’Sconset, the island lay more or less in undisturbed isolation until the 1950s. Perhaps it was the sleepiness of those 100 years that ultimately preserved the island’s architectural integrity and community spirit, paving the way for its resurrection. In the late 1950s and early 1960s, islander and S&H Green Stamp heir Walter Beinecke Jr. organized a revitalization of the waterfront area, replacing decrepit wharf buildings with cottages. He also declared the premise that guides tourism to this day: it is preferable to attract one tourist with $100 than 100 tourists with $1 each. In accordance with the maxim, strict zoning laws were adopted, land-conservation groups were launched, and Nantucket’s upscale tourism industry began in earnest.

By the late 1990s, the well-to-do set was foregoing the Hamptons and similar enclaves for Nantucket. By 2000 it had become too popular for its own good and was placed on the list of Most Endangered Historical Places, as decreed by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. In contrast to the Vineyard’s showy excess and celebrity allure, Nantucket is a restrained haven for behind-the-scenes power brokers.

In the recent past, mammoth multimillion-dollar trophy houses (and to be fair, some of the more understated ones, too) have belonged to people like the Gambles of Procter & Gamble, the Du Ponts, R. H. Macy, R. J. Reynolds, Bill Blass, David Halberstam, Graham Gund, Jack Welsh, Tommy Hilfiger, John Kerry, and Russell Baker. And now, downtown properties like the former Harbor House Hotel are being converted into one- to three-bedroom residences (a.k.a. condos) with hefty price tags.

It was only a matter of time, I suppose, although many islanders are up in arms with dismay at what their island is fast becoming: a gated theme park for the rich. It’s no longer enough to be a millionaire on Nantucket. Billionaires are the new millionaires.

NANTUCKET HUMOR

In 1966 Nantucket was declared a National Historic Landmark: It boasts more than 800 buildings constructed before 1850—the largest concentration of such buildings in the U.S. The historic district is picture-perfect: paved cobblestone streets, brick sidewalks, electrified “gas” street lamps. Gray-shingled houses are nestled close together on narrow lanes, which wind as you amble beyond the downtown grid of streets. Elegant white residences are trimmed with English boxwood hedges, white picket fences, and showcase flower gardens.

With a daily summer population that swells to about 50,000, today’s tourist industry is about as well oiled as the whale industry once was. It’s difficult to find a grain of sand or a seashell that hasn’t been discovered.

Most sites in Nantucket are within a mile of the historic center—you might walk more than you’re accustomed to. In addition to historic houses and museums, Nantucket prides itself on offering world-class dining. Although there are little pockets of settlements around the island, the only real “destination” is ’Sconset, an utterly quaint village with rose-covered cottages. Elsewhere on the island, more than 45 percent of the island’s 10,000 acres are held by conservation trusts; you’ll be able to explore places where most tourists don’t venture. The island boasts excellent bicycle paths and almost limitless public beaches.

Nantucket is a year-round destination. Hundreds of thousands of daffodils blanket the island in yellow as the earth reawakens each April. The weather in May and June is slightly less predictable than in fall, but if you hit a nice stretch, you’ll probably muse that life just doesn’t get any better. Gardens are brightest in May and June. Where once there were whaling ships, yachts now fill the harbor in summer. Warm ocean water and beach barbecues beckon, wild roses trail along picket fences, and many special events are staged. Come September (my favorite month on-island), the crowds recede a bit. You can swim in the still-temperate ocean by day and not have to wait for a table at your favorite restaurant at night. Skies turn crisp blue, and cranberry bogs, heathlands, and the moors blaze red, russet, and maroon.

BRANT POINT LIGHTHOUSE AND FERRY

Many restaurants that close in mid-October (at the end of Columbus Day weekend) reopen for the long Thanksgiving weekend. The first three weeks of November are very quiet indeed. Before the monochrome days of winter set in, there is one last burst of activity: Nantucket Noel and Christmas Stroll (see Special Events). In January, February, and March you’ll discover why whaling captains called the island the “little gray lady”—she is often shrouded in fog. It’s a time of reflection and renewal for year-rounders and visitors alike.

GUIDANCE Nantucket Visitor Services & Information Bureau (508-228-0925; nantucket-ma.gov), 25 Federal Street. The bureau also maintains seasonal kiosks at Straight Wharf and Nantucket Memorial Airport.

Nantucket Island Chamber of Commerce (508-228-1700; nantucketchamber.org), 0 Main Street. For sure (!), get their glossy book, The Official Guide: Nantucket, which is free on-island (and can also easily be downloaded in sections) but costs $ to mail in advance of your visit.

Nantucket Historical Association (NHA) (508-228-1894; nha.org), 15 Broad Street. The NHA owns 23 historic properties, 10 of which are open to the public, representing island life from its farming beginnings to its prosperous whaling days, and is a fabulous source of historical information. Generally, NHA properties have “normalish” hours late May to mid-October and shortened winter hours; they change from year to year. A Historic Sites ticket ($) is valid for admission to Hadwen House, the Oldest House, the Old Mill, and the Quaker Meeting House. Guided tours are available at the Hadwen House, Oldest House, and Old Mill. The combo ticket, which includes the Whaling Museum (see To See), is a good deal ($$).

WHALING MUSEUM

GETTING THERE With high-speed ferry service, day-tripping to Nantucket from Hyannis is more feasible than ever. Although I still recommend spending a few days on Nantucket, you are no longer shut out if you can’t.

By bus: Peter Pan/Bonanza (800-343-9999; peterpanbus.com) travels from points south to Hyannis, where you can catch the boats. Plymouth & Brockton (508-746-0378; p-b.com) runs from Boston to Hyannis.

WAITING FOR THE STEAMSHIP AUTHORITY FERRY

By boat from Hyannis: The Steamship Authority (508-477-8600 for information and advance auto reservations; 508-771-4000 for day-of-sailing information—no reservations—in Hyannis; 508-228-0262 for day-of-sailing information—no reservations—on Nantucket; steamshipauthority.com), South Street Dock, Hyannis. The steamship, established in 1948, carries autos, people, and bikes to Steamship Wharf year-round. Make car reservations in the spring for the summer if you can; no reservations are needed for passengers. There are six high-season sailings daily and three off-season. Parking in Hyannis is $$ per calendar day. The voyage takes 2¼ hours. Round-trip fares: $$$$; bicycles $$. Cars cost a whopping $450+ mid-May to late October, about $320 off-season—but you really don’t need one. Take it from me, a my-car-is-my-home-when-I-travel nut.

The Steamship Authority’s high-speed passenger boat, Iyanough (508-495-3278 for reservations; 508-477-8600 for information) sails dock-to-dock in one hour, early May through December, and makes four to five trips daily; $$$$$+. Reservations strongly suggested.

Hy-Line Cruises (800-492-8082; hylinecruises.com), Ocean Street Dock, Hyannis. Passengers and bicycles to Straight Wharf, late May to mid-October. There are three summertime boats daily, one to three daily off-season. Round-trip fares are $$$$$, bicycles $$. Parking in Hyannis is $$ per calendar day.

Hy-Line’s high-speed passenger boat, Grey Lady (800-492-8082; hylinecruises.com), Ocean Street Dock. This high-speed luxury catamaran costs a bit more, but it operates year-round. Reservations are strongly recommended. There are five to six boats daily.

By boat from Harwich: Freedom Cruise Line (508-432-8999; nantucketislandferry.com), Saquatucket Harbor in Harwich Port, provides daily passenger service to Nantucket, early June to late September and during the Christmas Stroll (see Special Events). During the summer, two of the three trips are scheduled so that you can explore Nantucket for about 6½ hours and return the same day. In spring and fall, there is only one morning boat daily. Reservations are highly recommended; make them three to four days in advance. Round-trip prices: $$$$$+, bicycles $$. Free parking for day-trippers; $$ daily thereafter. The trip takes 80 minutes each way.

By boat from Martha’s Vineyard: Hy-Line Cruises (508-778-2600 in Hyannis; 508-228-3949 on Nantucket; 508-693-0112 in Oak Bluffs, Martha’s Vineyard; hylinecruises.com). One daily, interisland departure from mid-June to mid-September. The trip takes 75 minutes. (There is no interisland car ferry.) One-way: $$$$, bicycles $.

By air: Cape Air/Nantucket Airlines (508-771-6944; flycapeair.com; nantucketairlines.org) offer dozens of daily flights direct from Boston, Hyannis, New Bedford, Providence (T. F. Green), and Martha’s Vineyard. Frequent-flier coupon books for 10 one-way trips are available.

GETTING AROUND By shuttle: NRTA Shuttle (508-228-7025; nrtawave.com). WAVE information aides and other amenities are available at the Greenhound Building at 10 Washington Street. Buses daily, late May to early October. This is an economical, relatively convenient (if you pay attention to departure times), and reliable way to travel to ’Sconset (two routes) and Madaket, but the schedule is too complicated to disseminate here. Pick up a route map on-island. Shuttles have a bike rack, so you can take the bus out to ’Sconset, for instance, and ride back. The Surfside Beach and Jetties Beach buses run on a shorter season, from mid-June to early September. Tickets cost $, depending on the route; exact change required. Ask about multiday passes at the NRTA office at 3 East Chestnut Street.

By car or four-wheel drive: There isn’t a single traffic light in Nantucket, and Nantucketers intend to keep it that way. You don’t need a car unless you’re here for at least a week or unless you plan to spend most of your time in conservation areas or on outlying beaches. Even then, a four-wheel-drive vehicle is the most useful, as many of the stunning natural areas are off sandy paths. Nantucket is also ringed by 80 miles of beaches, most of which are accessible via four-wheel drive. Four-wheel drives are rented faster than the speed of light in summer, so make reservations at least a month in advance. And lastly, parking is severely restricted in the historic center. Rent from my favorite company, Affordable Rentals (508-228-3501; affrentals.com), 6 South Beach Street, early April to late December. Expect to pay $125+ for a compact during the summer, $250+ for a four-wheel-drive Jeep. Nantucket Windmill Auto Rental (508-228-1227; nantucketautorental.com) is based at the airport but also offers free pickup from the ferry; Hertz (800-654-3131; hertz.com) is also based at the airport. Prices drop by almost half off-season.

If you get stuck in the sand, call Harry’s 24-Hour Towing (508-228-3390). Once you do call him, though, wait with your vehicle so he doesn’t make the trek out to fetch you, only to find that you’ve been helped by a friendly local.

Contact the Police Department (508-228-1212), South Water Street, for overland permits, which are required for four-wheel, over-sand driving. Expect to pay $100+ off-season and $150+ in season.

The Coatue–Coskata–Great Point nature area (see Green Space) requires a separate permit, available from the Nantucket Conservation Foundation (508-228-2884 information; 508-228-0006 Wauwinet gatehouse, where permits are purchased; nantucketconservation.com), mid-May through October. Most beaches are open to four-wheel-drive traffic, except when terns are nesting.

WALKING TOURS

A PERFECT DAY TRIP TO NANTUCKET

8:15	Board a high-speed ferry in Hyannis.
9:30	Get fresh-squeezed concoctions and treats from The Juice Bar.
10:00	Take a walking tour with the Nantucket Historical Association.
11:45	Learn the island’s rich history at the Nantucket Whaling Museum.
1:15	Split an oversized sandwich from Provisions with your companion.
2:00	Take an island driving tour with Nantucket Island Tours.
3:15	Shop and stroll along cobblestone streets; pop into the Atheneum.
6:15	Enjoy regional cuisine at the Boarding House or Centre Street Bistro.
8:40	Take the last high-speed ferry back to Hyannis.

By taxi: Taxi fares can add up, but cabs are a useful way to get to the airport or to an outlying restaurant.

Try All Point Taxi (508-228-5779) or look for one when you disembark from the ferry. Taxis usually line up on lower Main Street and at Steamboat Wharf. Flat rates are based on the destination: $$$ to ’Sconset, $$ to the airport, and $ within town, for instance. Rates are for one person; add a coupla bucks for each additional passenger. As for Uber or Lyft: personally, I’d rather support local taxis.

By bicycle: Bicycling is the best way to get around (see To Do).

By moped: Nantucket Bike Shop (508-228-1999; nantucketbikeshop.com), Steamboat Wharf, rents scooters April through October. $$$$$+ daily.

On foot: Architectural Walking Tours (508-228-1387; nantucketpreservation.org), 55 Main Street, by the Nantucket Preservation Trust. June through September. $$.

See the Nantucket Whaling Museum for great walking tours sponsored by the Nantucket Historical Association.

By van or bus tours: Ara’s Tours (508-228-1951; 508-221-6852; arastours.com) offers a 90-minute island tour for $$$ that makes stops for photography. On a clear day you can see all three lighthouses. For those who have more time and money, ask about the three-hour barrier beach tours of Great Point (see Green Space).

Trustees of Reservations (508-921-1944; thetrustees.org) offers excellent 3½-hour natural history tours from mid-May to mid-October. Tours depart from the Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum, where a guided tour of the museum is followed by a tour of the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge. $$$$$; reservations strongly recommended.

Barrett’s Tours (508-228-0174), 20 Federal Street, and Nantucket Island Tours (508-228-0334), 34 Straight Wharf, offer 90-minute narrated mini-bus tours May through October. $$$.

MEDIA The venerable Inquirer and Mirror (ack.net) has been published on Thursday since 1821 and is also available online.

The free weekly Yesterday’s Island (yesterdaysisland.com) is useful for entertainment listings.

On-island, tune into Channel 22 and Channel 17 to learn more about the island.

WNAN 91.1 (508-548-9600; wgbh.org) is the NPR affiliate.

MORE WEBSITES Mahonabouttown.wordpress.com. You wanna know about this island, you gotta know about this “Mahon About Town” blog.

Artsnantucket.com. Look for their free color guide to the island’s visual and performing arts.

Nantucketonline.com. Look for their glossy publication, Only Nantucket, which is also viewable online.

Nantucket.net. A complete guide.

PUBLIC RESTROOMS Visitor Services & Information Bureau at 25 Federal Street (open year-round); Children’s Beach (see Green Space) and Straight Wharf (both open seasonally).

PUBLIC LIBRARY See Atheneum under the “Quiet Time” sidebar.

ATM Short on greenbacks? In town, look for automatic teller machines at the Pacific National Bank (15 Sparks Avenue), Bank of America (15 Main Street), the Steamship Authority terminal (Steamboat Wharf), and Nantucket Bank (2 Orange Street).

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Nantucket Cottage Hospital (508-825-8100; nantuckethospital.org), 57 Prospect Street. Open 24 hours.

Lyme disease. Ticks carry this disease, which has flulike symptoms and may result in death if left untreated. Immediately and carefully remove any ticks that may have migrated from dune grasses to your body. Better yet, wear long pants, tuck pants into socks, and wear long-sleeved shirts whenever possible when hiking. Avoid hiking in grassy and overgrown areas of dense brush.

To See

ON THE HARBOR The wharves (from north to south). The Steamship Authority is now based at Steamboat Wharf, but from 1881 to 1917, steam trains, which met the early steam-powered ferries and transported passengers to Surfside and ’Sconset, originated here. Old North Wharf is home to privately owned summer cottages. Straight Wharf, originally built in 1723 by Richard Macy, is a center of activity. It was completely rebuilt in the 1960s (except for the Thomas Macy Warehouse; see below) as part of a preservation effort. The wharf is home to Hy-Line, a few T-shirt and touristy shops, restaurants, a gallery, a museum, a nice pavilion area, and charter boats and sailboats. Straight Wharf was so named because folks could cart things from here “straight” up Main Street. Old South Wharf houses art galleries, crafts shops, and clothing shops in quaint little one-room “shacks” (see Selective Shopping). Commercial Wharf, also known as Swain’s Wharf, was built in the early 1800s by Zenas Coffin.

STRAIGHT WHARF

Thomas Macy Warehouse, Straight Wharf. Built after the Great Fire of 1846, when the wharves were completely destroyed and more than 400 houses burned, the warehouse stored supplies to outfit ships.

MAIN STREET

The lower three blocks of Main Street were paved in 1837 with cobblestones, purchased in Gloucester, which proved quite useful—they kept carts laden with whale oil from sinking into the sand and dirt as they were rolled from wharves to factories. After the Great Fire swept through town, Main Street was widened considerably to prevent future fires from jumping from house to house so rapidly. In the mid-1850s Henry and Charles Coffin planted dozens of elm trees along the street, but only a few have survived disease over the years. The former drinking fountain for horses, which today spills over with flowers, has been a landmark on Lower Main since it was moved here in the early 1900s.

OLD SOUTH WHARF

MAIN STREET

Pacific Club, Main Street at South Water Street. This three-story, Georgian brick building was built as a warehouse and countinghouse for shipowner William Rotch, owner of the Beaver and Dartmouth, two ships that took part in the Boston Tea Party. In 1789 it served as a U.S. Customs House. In 1861 a group of retired whaling captains purchased the building for use as a private social club, where they swapped stories and played cribbage. Descendants of these original founders carried on the tradition of the elite club until the 1980s.

Pacific National Bank, 61 Main Street at Fair Street. This 1818, two-story, Federal-style brick building is one of only four to survive the Great Fire. It’s no coincidence that the two important buildings anchoring Main Street are named “Pacific” for the fortunes reaped from the Pacific Ocean: This bank almost single-handedly financed the wealthy whaling industry. Step inside to see the handsome main room, original teller cages, and murals of the port and street scenes.

Thomas Macy House, 99 Main Street. Many think this is Nantucket’s most attractive doorway, with its silver doorplate, porch railing that curves outward, and wooden fanwork. This Nantucket Historical Association (NHA) property is open to the public on special occasions.

“Three Bricks,” 93, 95, and 97 Main Street. These identical Georgian mansions were built in 1836 for the three sons (all under the age of 27) of whaling-ship magnate Joseph Starbuck. Joseph retained the house titles to ensure that his sons would continue the family business. When the sons approached age 40 (firmly entrenched in the business), Joseph deeded the houses to them. One house remains in the Starbuck family; none is open to the public.

Hadwen House (508-228-1894; nha.org), 96 Main Street. Taken together, 94 Main (privately owned) and 96 Main are referred to architecturally as the “Two Greeks.” Candle merchant William Hadwen married one of Joseph Starbuck’s daughters and built the Greek Revival house at No. 96. Starbuck’s two other daughters also ended up living across the street from their brothers—at 92 and 100 Main Street, creating a virtual Starbuck compound. Docents point out gas chandeliers, a circular staircase, Italian marble fireplaces, silver doorknobs, and period furnishings. Don’t overlook the lovely historic garden in back. The “other” Greek (No. 94) was built in the mid-19th century for Mary G. Swain, Starbuck’s niece; note the Corinthian capitals supposedly modeled after the Athenian Temple of the Winds. This is an NHA property (see Guidance for hours and fees).

Henry Coffin House and Charles Coffin House, 75 and 78 Main Street. The Coffin brothers inherited their fortunes from their father’s candle-making and whaling enterprises and general mercantile business. They built their houses across the street from each other, using the same carpenters and masons. Charles was a Quaker, and his Greek Revival house (No. 78) has a simple roof walk and modest brown trim. Henry’s late-Federal-style house (No. 75) has fancy trim around the front door and a cupola. Neither is open to the public.

John Wendell Barrett House, 72 Main Street. This elegant Greek Revival house features a front porch with Ionic columns and a raised basement. Barrett was the president of the Pacific National Bank and a wealthy whale oil merchant, but the house is best known for another reason. During the Great Fire, Barrett’s wife, Lydia, refused to leave the front porch. Firefighters wanted to blow up the house in order to deprive the fire of fuel. Luckily for her, the winds shifted and further confrontation was averted. Not open to the public.

NORTH OF MAIN STREET

Whaling Museum (508-228-1894; nha.org), 13 Broad Street. This 1846 brick building, another NHA property (see Guidance for hours), is a must-see on even the shortest itinerary. It began life as Richard Mitchell’s spermaceti candle factory, and as such, it now tells the story of the candle factory and preserves Nantucket’s whaling history. Spermaceti, by the way, is a substance found in the cavity of a sperm whale’s head; it was a great source of lamp and machine oil. During the restoration of the original candle factory in 2004, the NHA discovered an original beam press and the base of the factory triworks. (It’s the only one in the world still in its original location.) So, the story the museum can tell grows even richer. You can also see the lens from the Sankaty Head Lighthouse, as well as an entire exhibit about the Essex whaling ship. Gosnell Hall houses a 46-foot sperm whale skeleton and a fully rigged whale boat, which will help you envision the treacherous “Nantucket sleigh ride.” When the small boat harpooned a mammoth whale and remained connected by a rope, the boat was dragged through the waves until the whale tired. Peter Foulger Gallery is named for one of the island’s first settlers who acted as an interpreter when the settlers purchased the island from Native Americans in 1659. Peter’s daughter, Abiah, was Ben Franklin’s mother. $$; History Tickets with guided walking tours are additional. Combo pass for the museum, Hadwen House, the Oldest House, the Old Mill, and the Quaker Meeting House is $$$.

ONE OF “THREE BRICKS”

WHALING MUSEUM

Centre Street was referred to as Petticoat Row during the whaling era, when men went out to sea and women were left to run the shops and businesses. It’s still chock-full of fine shops.

First Congregational Church Tower (508-228-0950; nantucketfcc.org), 62 Centre Street. Church open mid-May to mid-October; tower open mid-June to mid-October. This church is known for its 120-foot steeple, from which there are 360-degree panoramic views of the island and ocean. The climb to the top is 94 steps—not that I’ve counted or anything. On a clear day you can see from Eel Point to Great Point (see Green Space) and all the moors in between. Serious photographers shouldn’t get too excited, though, because they’ll have to shoot through dirty storm windows.

MAIN STREET

QUIET TIME

Nantucket Atheneum (508-228-1110; nantucketatheneum.org), 1 India Street. This fine Greek Revival building with Ionic columns was designed by Frederick Coleman, who designed the “Two Greeks” (see Hadwen House under To See). When the library and all its contents were lost in the Great Fire of 1846, donations poured in from around the country and a new building replaced it within six months. The Great Hall on the second floor has hosted such distinguished orators as Frederick Douglass, Daniel Webster, Horace Greeley, Henry David Thoreau, Ralph Waldo Emerson, and John James Audubon. (The hall seats about 100 people; there are numerous free readings and lectures here.) Maria Mitchell (see Maria Mitchell Association sidebar under To See) was the first librarian. Since then there have been, amazingly, only seven other librarians in its long history. In addition to comfortable reading rooms on both floors, the Atheneum has an excellent children’s wing and a nice garden out back. Some of the more than 50,000 volumes include town newspapers dating from 1816, early New England genealogy, and ships’ logs. Portraits of whaling captains grace the space, while display cases are filled with scrimshaw and other historical artifacts. This is one of the island’s most special places. It’s a quiet refuge from the masses in the height of summer, as well as a delightful place to spend a rainy day. Call for information about special events and story hours.

The current steeple was built in 1968; the previous one was dismantled in 1849, when it was deemed too shaky to withstand storms. The church was built with whaling money at the industry’s apex in 1834. Note the things money could buy: a 600-pound brass chandelier and trompe l’oeil walls. The rear wing of the church contains the simple vestry, the oldest church building on the island (circa 1720). Donation suggested for climbing the steeple $.

Oldest House (508-228-1894; nha.org), 16 Sunset Hill Lane. Also known as the Jethro Coffin House, this 1686 home was built as a wedding present for Jethro Coffin and Mary Gardner by their parents. Peter Coffin cut and shipped timbers from his land in Exeter, New Hampshire, for the house. The marriage joined two prominent island families—the Coffins were “original purchasers,” while the Gardners were “half-share men.” Features include small, diamond-shaped, leaded windows, sparse period furnishings, and a huge central chimney decorated with an upside-down horseshoe. When lightning struck the house in 1987, the Nantucket Historical Association decided it was time to restore it. To provide visitors with a better understanding of what everyday life was like three centuries ago, a kitchen garden and a small orchard of old-variety apple trees was planted in 2007.

Brant Point Lighthouse, off Easton Street. In 1746 the island’s first “lighthouse” (and the country’s second oldest, after Boston Light) guarded the harbor’s northern entrance. It was rather primitive, consisting of a lantern hung on rope between two poles. The lighthouse standing today is small in size but large in symbolism. Folklore and tradition suggest that throwing two pennies overboard as you round the point at the lighthouse ensures your return. Many throw two pennies, and many return. Don’t pass up the chance to catch a sunset from here; it’s the reason you came to Nantucket in the first place.

FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH TOWER

BRANT POINT LIGHTHOUSE

NEAR OR OFF UPPER MAIN STREET

Quaker Meeting House (508-228-1894; nha.org), 7 Fair Street. Open late April to mid-October. This small, simple building with wooden benches and 12-over-12 windows began as a Friends school in 1838. NHA property (see Guidance for hours and fees).

Nantucket Historical Association Research Library (508-228-1894, ext. 4; nha.org), 7 Fair Street. This library contains Edouard A. Stackpole’s collection of manuscripts, photographs, ships’ logs, and other items. $.

St. Paul’s Episcopal Church (508-228-0916; stpaulschurchnantucket.org), 20 Fair Street. Stop in to admire this granite church’s Tiffany windows.

Unitarian Universalist Church (508-228-5466; unitarianchurchnantucket.org), 11 Orange Street. Open July and August, or by appointment during the rest of the year. This 1809 church, also called South Church, is known for its tall spire (quite visible at sea and a distinct part of the Nantucket “skyline”); a wonderfully illusory trompe l’oeil golden dome; and a mahogany and ivory 1831 Goodrich organ. Orange Street was once home to more than 100 whaling captains, and for years a town crier watched for ships (and fires) from this tower.

The Coffin School (508-228-2505; eganmaritime.org), 4 Winter Street, one block off Main Street. Open for seminars and presentations only. The school was founded in 1827 by Adm. Sir Isaac Coffin, English baronet and a descendant of Tristram Coffin, one of the island’s first settlers. It was established to provide a “good English education” for Coffin descendants. (In the early 19th century, more than half of Nantucket’s children were Coffin descendants.) The impressive brick Greek Revival building now serves as home for the Egan Maritime Institute, displaying special exhibits related to Nantucket history. A fine collection of 19th-century paintings portraying significant Nantucket events is featured, including works by Elizabeth R. Coffin, a student of Thomas Eakins. Historical lectures on the school and maritime subjects are given year-round. Admission $; price also includes admission to the Nantucket Shipwreck and Lifesaving Museum (see Around the Island).

See also Lightship Basket Museum under the “Lightship Baskets” sidebar.

BEYOND UPPER MAIN STREET

Fire Hose Cart House (508-228-1894; nha.org), 8 Gardner Street. This small 1886 neighborhood fire station is the only one of its kind remaining on-island. As you can imagine, lots of stations were built after the Great Fire. On display are leather buckets and an old hand pumper used more than a century ago. NHA property (see Guidance for hours); self-guided.

The Old Gaol (508-228-1894; nha.org), 15R Vestal Street. This 1806 penal institution, built of logs bolted together with iron, was used until 1933. It had only four cells. The first incarcerated felon escaped (a 15-year-old climbed out the chimney), but others weren’t so lucky. Well, perhaps they were—it’s said that the last prisoners got to sleep at home rather than on the planks that served as beds. NHA property (see Guidance for hours); self-guided.

Old Mill (508-228-1894; nha.org), 50 Prospect Street. Reputed to be made with salvaged wood, this 1746 Dutch-style windmill has canvas sails and a granite stone that still grinds corn in summer. A reminder of when the island’s principal activity was farming, this windmill is the only remaining of the four originals. (It’s in its original location, too.) NHA property; tours offered. (See Guidance for hours and fees.)

African Meeting House (508-228-9833; afroammuseum.org), 29 York Street. Open June through October. Built as a church and a schoolhouse in the 1820s, when black children were barred from public school, this house is thought to be the second oldest such building in the country. Boston’s Museum of Afro-American History presents cultural programming and interpretive exhibits on the history of African Americans on Nantucket. It also publishes a very good pamphlet with a walking tour of the island’s black heritage sites. The Florence Higginbotham House (at Pleasant Street), also at the center of the thriving 19th-century African American community on the island, has recently been acquired. The pre-Revolutionary War building has a fascinating history. Thanks to federal funding, the meetinghouse is being restored to its 19th-century state. $.

Moor’s End, 19 Pleasant Street. This large 1830s Georgian house—the first island house made with brick—belonged to Jared Coffin. Although today it’s among the island’s finest, Mrs. Coffin was not satisfied with its location. She wanted to be closer to town, so Jared built another at 29 Broad Street (see Jared Coffin House under Lodging). A beautiful garden lies behind the tall brick wall, but unfortunately for us, like the house, it’s private.

AROUND THE ISLAND

Great Point Light, Great Point, is accessible by four-wheel-drive vehicle, by boat, or by a difficult 5-mile (one-way) trek through soft sand. A 70-foot stone structure guarded the island’s northeastern tip for 166 years, until a ferocious storm destroyed it in 1984. This new one was built to withstand 20-foot waves and 240 mph winds.

HOMAGE TO A LOCAL, 19TH-CENTURY HERO

Maria Mitchell Association (MMA) (508-228-9198; mariamitchell.org), 4 Vestal Street. Founded in 1902, the association owns six properties that celebrate the life and continue the work of Maria (pronounced mar-EYE-a) Mitchell, born on-island August 1, 1818. At age 13 she helped whaling captains set their navigational devices with the aid of astronomical projections. At 18 she became the librarian at the Atheneum, where she served for the next 20 years. At 29 Mitchell was the first woman to discover a comet (which was dubbed Mitchell’s comet)—from atop the Pacific National Bank, where her father (bank president and an amateur astronomer) had set up an observatory. She was also the first woman admitted to the American Academy of Arts and Sciences and the first woman college professor of astronomy. (She taught at Vassar from 1865 until her death in 1888.)

The association hosts a number of children’s programs that foster an appreciation of the connection between science and “beauty and poetry.” Also, look for postings of special lectures and walks sponsored by the group; I’ve never been to one that was less than excellent. And, in July 2009, the association received the ultimate seal of approval when President Obama announced that the Maria Mitchell Association had been selected to receive the Presidential Award for Excellence in Science, Mathematics, and Engineering Mentoring.

A combination ticket to the birthplace, observatory, and museum (available at any of the properties) costs $$. Tickets may also be purchased separately for the aquarium. To whet your appetite, enjoy free tours of the Vestal Street campus most days during the season, meeting in the Science Library Courtyard.

Maria Mitchell Science Library (508-228-2896; mariamitchell.org), 2 Vestal Street. This library, which has a children’s section, houses 19th-century science books, current scientific periodicals, Maria’s own papers, and natural history and astronomy books. Maria’s father taught navigation by the stars in this former schoolhouse. Appointments available for research.

Maria Mitchell Birthplace (508-228-2896 in summer, 508-228-9219 rest of year; mariamitchell.org), 1 Vestal Street. Open mid-June to mid-October. Built in 1790, Mitchell’s birthplace contains family memorabilia and the telescope she used to spot her comet. Tour the house and check out the island’s only public roof walk. See above for ticket.

Maria Mitchell Vestal Street Observatory (508-228-9273; mariamitchell.org), 3 Vestal Street. Call for tour times.

Natural Science Museum (508-228-0898; mariamitchell.org), Hinchman House, 7 Milk Street. Open late May to mid-October. See displays of Nantucket’s natural history and visit the live animal room to meet frogs, turtles, snakes, spiders, insects, fish, and other island creatures. There’s also a popular, well-stocked museum shop; a new high-tech scavenger hunt; and kids can learn how to (theoretically) save Nantucket Harbor with a Jenga-style game and learn more about wider ecological issues.

Loines Observatory (508-228-9273; mariamitchell.org), 59 Milk Street Extension. Open June through December (see website for dates and times, and call to confirm weather conditions), when lectures and telescope viewings are held. Climb a ladder to the eyepiece of a fine, old telescope and sample the sights of the distant heavens. You’ll also have the opportunity to see the MMA’s new, 24-inch research telescope. $$.

Maria Mitchell Aquarium & Museum Shop (508-228-5387; mariamitchell.org), 28 Washington Street. Open early June through August. Once a railroad station ticket office for the Nantucket Railroad, the aquarium has grown into a much-loved island resource. Visitors have the opportunity to learn about Nantucket’s marine ecology through firsthand experience with many of the organisms that inhabit our coastal areas. The expanded aquarium complex contains 20 saltwater tanks in three buildings, an orientation area for dry exhibits and small group instruction, and two large “touch tanks” for curious hands. Visitors might count the eyes of a scallop, watch a channeled whelk feeding on a mollusk, or see baby squid hatching. Call about the popular marine ecology walks, whale watches, and seal cruises. $; see combo ticket details above.

Madaket. When Thomas Macy landed here in 1659, he found poor soil and didn’t stay long. Today there is a large summer community and many rental houses. On the western coast, Madaket is a great place to enjoy a sunset, do some bluefishing, or get a boat repaired in the boatyard. The picturesque creek is best viewed from the little bridge to the right of the main road.

Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum (508-228-1885; eganmaritime.org), 158 Polpis Road on Folger’s Marsh. Open late May to mid-October. This building replicates the original 1874 Surfside Lifesaving Service station that survives today as the Nantucket Hostel (see Lodging). Instead of being at water’s edge, however, it’s scenically situated on a salt marsh—perfect for a picnic. Dedicated to humanity’s dramatic efforts against the relentless sea—treacherous shoals and inclement weather led to more than 700 shipwrecks in the surrounding waters of Nantucket—this museum houses equipment used in the daring rescues of sailors stranded offshore in their sinking boats. Treasures include one of only three Massachusetts Humane Society lifesaving surfboats and the only surviving beachcart still used for demonstration drills. You’ll also find photographs, accounts of rescues, Nantucket’s three Fresnel lighthouse lenses, and artifacts from the Andrea Doria, which sank off Nantucket almost half a century ago. $.

NANTUCKET SHIPWRECK & LIGHTSAVING MUSEUM

To Do

BIRD-WATCHING Maria Mitchell Association (508-228-9198; mmo.org), 1 Vestal Street, offers birding field trips June to early September. $$; binoculars available for hire. Some people think that Nantucket offers the best wintertime bird-watching on the East Coast. I wouldn’t argue.

See also Eco Guides under Outdoor Adventure.

BOAT EXCURSIONS & RENTALS Endeavor (508-228-5585; endeavorsailing.com), Slip 1015, Straight Wharf. May through October. Capt. Jim Genthner and his wife, Sue, operate a 31-foot Friendship sloop that departs on at least three daily 90-minute harbor tours and a sunset cruise. Custom sails may include pirating for children and an on-board fiddler or storyteller. $$$$+.

Island Boat Rentals (508-325-1001; boatnantucket.com), Straight Wharf, Slip 1001. You don’t have to be macho to handle one of these little runabouts or powerboats that can take you across the harbor to Coatue, where you can sunbathe and picnic in relative quiet. Leave in the morning when there’s less wind. Rentals start at $385.

Nantucket Island Community Sailing (508-228-6600; nantucketcommunity sailing.org), Jetties Beach. Rents Windsurfers, Sunfish, kayaks, and large sailboats, and it holds youth, sailboard, sailing, and racing classes. For a really unique thing to do, take a class in how to sail a replica 19th-century whaleboat. Mid-June to early September.

COOKOUTS Contact the Fire Department (508-228-2324), 131 Pleasant Street, for the requisite (nominally-priced) permits for charcoal cookouts.

FISHING & SHELLFISHING Permits for digging clams, mussels, and quahogs are obtained from the Marine Department and shellfish warden (508-228-7261), 34 Washington Street. Or try online (mass.gov). Scalloping season opens October 1, after which you’ll see fishermen in the harbor and off nearby shoals of Tuckernuck Island; local scallops harvested from mid-October through March are delicious.

Try your luck freshwater fishing at Long Pond (see Green Space). Nantucket blues, which run in schools from May to October, are caught from the southern shore. Fishing isn’t as good in July and August when the waters are warmer, but if that’s the only time you’re here, toss out a line anyway. No fishing licenses are needed for Nantucket.

BICYCLING & RENTALS

Excellent paved, two-way bicycle paths lead to most major “destinations.” If you’re riding on the street, ride in the direction of traffic or you’ll be fined. Or walk your bike.

Madaket Bike Path begins on Upper Main Street. This 6-mile (one-way) road takes you to the western end of Nantucket in 45 minutes. Although the route is a bit hilly and winding, it’s beautiful. There are rest areas along the way, a water fountain at the halfway point, picnic tables at Long Pond (see Green Space), and usually elegant swans, too.

Dionis Bike Path is a 1-mile spur trail off the Madaket Bike Path that runs to Dionis Beach. Getting to the beach has never been easier.

’Sconset (or Milestone) Bike Path begins at the rotary east of the historic district. This 6.5-mile (one-way) route with slight inclines parallels Milestone Road; it takes about an hour to get to ’Sconset. (Visually, the ride is a bit dull.) There’s a water fountain at the rotary.

Surfside Bike Path. Take Main Street to Pleasant Street, then continue straight and bear right onto Atlantic Avenue to Surfside Road. This flat 2.5-mile (one-way) path is very popular in summer; it takes about 20 minutes to get to the beach.

Polpis Road Path. The loop from the ’Sconset Bike Path to Polpis Road and back to town is about 16.5 miles. It’s definitely worth the detour, especially in springtime, when it’s lined with thousands of daffodils.

Cliff Road Bike Path begins on Cliff Road from North Water Street. This 2.5-mile, slightly hilly road passes large summer homes.

Rental Shops. With more than 2,500 rental bikes on-island, companies offer competitive rates. Average daily adult prices: $$$; kid’s bikes, trailers, zipper strollers, and trail-a-bikes, too. Inquire about discounts for family rentals. The following shops rent bicycles: Young’s Bicycle Shop (508-228-1151; youngsbicycleshop.com), 6 Broad Street, Steamboat Wharf, one of the best in town, a third-generation, family-owned bike shop since 1931); Nantucket Bike Shop (508-228-1999; nantucketbikeshop.com), 4 Broad Street, Steamboat Wharf; and Cook’s Cycles (508-228-0800; cookscyclesnantucket.com), 6 South Beach. Young’s has the longest season, but Cook’s is often a bit less expensive.

See also Eco Guides under Outdoor Adventure.

Bill Fisher Tackle (508-228-2261; billfishertackle.com), 127 Orange Street, rents a full line of equipment, supplies daily fishing reports, and provides guide service.

Most charters in search of striped bass and bluefish are located on Straight Wharf, including Herbert T (508-228-6655; fishnantucket.net), Slip 14, and Just Do It Too (508-228-7448; justdoittoo.com), Slip 13.

GOLF Siasconset Golf Club (508-257-6596), 260 Milestone Road. Open late May to mid-October. This nine-hole public course, encircled by conservation land, dates to 1894.

Miacomet Golf Course (508-325-0333; miacometgolf.com), 12 West Miacomet Road. This flat, 18-hole course is the island’s only 18-hole public golf facility. It’s owned by the Land Bank and has views of Miacomet Pond, heathland, and the coastline.

Sankaty Head Golf Club (508-257-6655; 508-257-6629; sankatyheadgc.com), 100 Polpis Road, ’Sconset. Although this links-style, 18-hole course is private, the public may play off-season from October to May. There are magnificent lighthouse views. This course operates one of the last remaining caddy camps in the U.S. (for boys), and it has done so since the early 1930s.

Nantucket Golf Club (508-257-8500; nantucketgolfclub.org), 250 Milestone Road (there’s no sign, nor is entry allowed for tourists). One of the most exclusive clubs anywhere. Many members, like gazillionaire Bill Gates, do not own property on-island, but rather jet in, play golf, and jet out. Memberships cost hundreds of thousands of dollars, plus annual dues. The membership list is closely guarded, of course, but it has its share from the Forbes 400 Wealthiest Americans list. As for the golf, the par-72, links-style course rolls with the naturally undulating landscape, within sight of Sankaty Head Light, on the moors with scrub oak and pitch pine. Generally appreciated by island conservationists, who realize that it could have been developed in less favorable ways, the 350-acre course was designed by Rees Jones.

IN-LINE SKATING Summertime skating is prohibited in town. You can skate on bike paths and at the skateboarding park at Jetties Beach; helmets and pads are required.

OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Strong Wings Eco Guides (508-228-1769; strongwings.org). Casual, customized adventure instruction and guided group trips, for novices and experts, in birding, climbing, mountain biking, sea kayaking, and natural history. After settling on a trip, price, and meeting time with them, be absolutely sure that you confirm and reconfirm your trip. There is also a large youth organization geared toward year-rounders, but vacationing kids can participate, too.

SCUBA DIVING The Sunken Ship (508-228-9226; sunkenship.com), 12 Broad Street. Perhaps because the Andrea Doria sank off Nantucket’s treacherous shoals in July 1956, the island attracts Atlantic Ocean divers. This full-service dive shop has the market cornered with charters, lessons, rentals, and even fishing referrals.

SEAL CRUISES Shearwater Excursions (508-228-7037; shearwaterexcursions.com), Straight Wharf, Slip 1011. Daily departures, weather permitting, to see lounging seals on the outer island of Muskeget. Tours are 2½ hours. $$$$$+.

SURFING Force 5 Watersports (508-228-0700), 6 Union Street, a retail surf shop with a knowledgeable staff, is a good source of information, too. Surfing is best on the southern beaches. Open May through December.

TENNIS Free, public courts are open at Jetties Beach (see Green Space) from early September to mid-June; from mid-June to late August there is a fee. Sign up at the Parks and Recreation Building (508-228-7213), North Beach Street, for one of six courts. Clinics and lessons are offered for adults and children.

Even More Things to Do

FITNESS CLUB Nantucket Health Club (508-228-4750; nantuckethealthclub.com), 10 Young’s Way. A full array of machines, free weights, classes, and personalized training sessions.

FOR FAMILIES Strong Wings Summer Camp (508-228-1769; strongwings.org), late June to late August. Choose from weekly action-filled day and half-day camps for kids. These might include sea kayaking, rock climbing, snorkeling, biking, ghost stories, crafts, and nature exploration.

Nantucket Babysitters Service (508-228-4970; nantucketbabysitters.com) provides parents a respite. Ronnie Sullivan-Moran assesses your needs, matches a sitter to your kids (all ages), and then sends the sitter to wherever you’re staying. The company also offers grocery shopping services, event planning, and meal preparation assistance.

SPECIAL PROGRAMS Nantucket Island School of Design and the Arts (508-228-9248; nisda.org), 23 Wauwinet Road. Founded in 1973, NISDA presents an extraordinary range of classes and lectures for adults and kids. Summerlong, weeklong, or daylong classes might include drawing, design, textile, folk art, floorcloth painting, puppet making, garden tours, yoga, modern dance, clay and sculpture, painting, and photography. Affiliated with Massachusetts College of Art in Boston, the school offers college graduate and undergraduate summer sessions in a converted dairy barn. Individuals attending classes may rent the school’s studios and one-bedroom cottages on the harbor.

Artist’s Association of Nantucket (508-228-0722; nantucketarts.org), One Gardner Perry Lane. Offering seasonal workshops and classes in a variety of disciplines for adults and children, the association also maintains a fine art library on Gardner Perry Lane and a gallery at 19 Washington Street (see Selective Shopping).

Nantucket Community School (508-228-7285, ext. 1571; nantucketcommunityschool.org), 10 Surfside Road. Offers adult-education classes and programs and camps for kids.

SWIMMING POOL Nantucket Community Pool (508-228-7285, ext. 1578; nantucketcommunityschool.org), Atlantic and Surfside Avenues. An Olympic-sized pool at the Nantucket High School is open for swimming and offers lessons—both for a fee.

WINE, BEER, & SPIRITS Nantucket Vineyard, Cisco Brewers, and Triple Eight Distillery (508-325-5929; ciscobrewers.com), 5 Bartlett Farm Road, about 2.5 miles south of town off Hummock Pond Road. Imagine a warm summer afternoon, sitting at an outdoor café in the interior of the island, surrounded by Bartlett farmland, sipping a frosty beer or icy vodka. Well, imagine no longer: It’s a fun diversion. Come to sample fresh, traditionally brewed ales, porters, stouts, and seasonal concoctions like Celebration Libation. Look for the excellent Cisco beer at island restaurants and package stores. It’s more satisfying (and cheaper) than most bottles of restaurant wine. And look for the clean tastes of 888 vodkas, flavored with vanilla, cranberry, and orange. (In tastings, the pure 888 outscored Kettle One.) I didn’t get a chance to sample their boutique Hurricane Rum, Gale Force Gin, or Nor’Easter Bourbon (hey, someone has to be clear-eyed for long research days!), but I encourage you to sip to your heart’s content. As for wine, because grapes don’t grow particularly well on Nantucket, this vineyard imports grapes for its wines.

’SCONSET

This charming village on the eastern shore is the island’s only real “destination,” 7 miles from town. (Well, for the adventuresome, Great Point—see Green Space—is the other “destination.”) The village is renowned for its tiny rose-covered cottages, all a few feet from one another. Some of the oldest are clustered on Broadway, Centre, and Shell Streets. You won’t have any problem finding them since the town consists of only a post office, a liquor store, a market, and a few restaurants. Of course, ’Sconset also has its share of grand summer homes—along Ocean Avenue and Sankaty and Baxter Roads (on the way to Sankaty Head Lighthouse; see below). Recently, the combination of severe winter storms and the absence of offshore shoals to break incoming waves has created extreme beach erosion. Beachfront homes have been moved after several were engulfed by the sea.

TELLING TIME WITH THE SUNDIAL IN ‘SCONSET

Siasconset, which means “land of many bones,” was probably named after a right whale was found on the beach. The 17th-century village was settled by and used as a base for fishermen in search of cod and whales. When wives began to join their husbands here in summer, the one-room shanties were expanded with additions called warts. (Perhaps early summer visitors wanted to escape the oil refineries in town, too.) When the narrow-gauge railway was built in 1884, it brought vacationing New York City actors who established a thriving actors’ colony. Today 200 hardy souls live here year-round.

A few “sites” in ’Sconset include the ’Sconset Pump, an old wooden water pump dug in 1776, and the ’Sconset Union Chapel, the only place of worship in town. Despite its name, the Siasconset Casino, built in 1899 as a private tennis club, has never been used for gambling. Turn-of-the-20th-century actors used it for summer theater; movies are now shown in summer (see Entertainment).

Sankaty Head Light, ’Sconset. Partially solar powered, this red-and-white-striped light stands on a 90-foot-high bluff about 300 feet from the shoreline—it was relocated in 2007 thanks to community action and should be safe for the foreseeable future. Its light is visible 24 miles out to sea.

Nantucket is renowned for the amount of open, protected land on the island. In fact, thanks to the efforts of various conservation groups, about half the island is protected from development. Two organizations deserve much of the credit: Nantucket Conservation Foundation (508-228-2884; nantucketconservation.org), 118 Cliff Road; and the Nantucket Land Bank (508-228-7240; nantucketlandbank.org), 22 Broad Street. The Conservation Foundation was established in 1963 to manage open land—wetlands, moors, and grasslands. It’s a private, nonprofit organization that’s supported by membership contributions. Because the foundation is constantly acquiring land, call for a map of its current properties, published yearly; free. The Land Bank was created by an act of the state legislature in 1983, granting permission to assess a 2 percent tax for all real estate and land transactions. With the tax receipts, property is purchased and kept as conservation land.

Green Space

Maria Mitchell Association (508-228-9198; mmo.org) leads informative field trips around the island (see To See). $$.

Coatue–Coskata–Great Point, at the end of Wauwinet Road, accessible only by four-wheel-drive vehicle and on foot. The narrow strip of very soft sand leading to Great Point is about 5 miles long. Note the “haulover,” which separates the head of the harbor from the Atlantic Ocean. This stretch of sand is so narrow that fishermen would haul their boats across it instead of going all the way around the tip of Great Point. During severe storms, the ocean breaks through the haulover, effectively creating an island. (Sand is eventually redeposited by the currents.) The spit of sand known as Coatue is a series of concave bays that reaches all the way to the mouth of Nantucket Harbor.

THE MOORS

There’s a wealth of things to do in this pristine preserve: birding, surf casting, shellfishing, sunbathing, picnicking, and walking. Because the riptides are dangerous, especially near the Great Point Lighthouse (see To See), swimming is not recommended. These three adjacent wildlife areas, totaling more than 1,100 acres, are owned by different organizations, but that doesn’t impact visitors. The Conservation Foundation owns both Coatue and the haulover. But the world’s oldest land trust, the Trustees of Reservations, also manages part of the land. Ara’s Tours and the Trustees of Reservations offer tours of Great Point; see Getting Around for tours and for information on getting your own four-wheel-drive permits.

Eel Point, off Eel Point Road from the Madaket Bike Path (see To Do), about 6 miles from town. Leave your car or bicycle at the sign that reads 40th Pole Beach and walk the last ½ mile to the beach. There aren’t any facilities, just unspoiled nature, good birding, surf-fishing, and a shallow sandbar. Portions of this beach are often closed to protect nesting shorebirds. For in-depth information, pick up a map and self-guided tour from the Nantucket Conservation Foundation (see Getting Around in “Nantucket”).

Sanford Farm, Ram Pasture, and the Woods, off Madaket Road. These 700-plus acres of wetlands, grasslands, and forest are owned and managed by the Conservation Foundation and the Land Bank. Ram Pasture and the Woods were one of the foundation’s first purchases (for $625,000) in 1971. Fourteen years later, Sanford Farm was purchased for $4.4 million from Mrs. Anne Sanford’s estate. A 6.5-mile (round-trip) walking and biking trail goes past Hummock Pond to the ocean, affording great views of heathlands along the way. Interpretive markers identify natural and historic sites. There is also a popular 45-minute (1.6-mile) loop trail as well as the Barn Trail (1½ hours, 3 miles), which affords beautiful expansive views of the island’s southern coastline.

Milestone Bog, off Milestone Road on a dirt road to the north, about 5 miles from town. When cranberries were first harvested here in 1857, there were 220 acres of bogs. Today, because of depressed prices and a worldwide cranberry glut, very few bogs are still harvested. The land was donated to the Conservation Foundation in 1968. It’s not open to the public, but it’s interesting to know it’s here.

Windswept Cranberry Bog, off Polpis Road to the south. This 40-acre bog is also completely owned by the Conservation Foundation.

BEACHES Nantucket is ringed by 50 miles of sandy shore, much publicly accessible. In general, beaches on the south and east have rough surf and undertow; western and northern beaches have warmer, calmer waters. There is limited parking at most beaches; NRTA (508-228-7025) provides a special beach bus to Jetties Beach and Surfside Beach from mid-June to early September, and regular buses to Madaket and ’Sconset Beaches.

NORTHERN BEACHES

Children’s Beach, off South Beach Street on the harbor. A few minutes’ walk from Steamboat Wharf, this is a great place for children (hence its name). Facilities include a lifeguard, restrooms, bathhouse, playground, food, picnic tables, bandstand, and a grassy play area.

Brant Point, off Easton Street. A 15-minute walk from town and overlooking the entrance to the harbor, this scenic stretch is great for boat-watching and surf-fishing. Swimming conditions aren’t great: there’s a strong current and a beach that drops off suddenly.

Jetties, off Bathing Beach Road from North Beach Road. Shuttle buses run to this popular beach—otherwise it’s a 20-minute walk. (There is also a fairly large parking lot with lots of bike racks.) This is a great place for families because of the facilities (restrooms, lifeguards, showers, changing rooms, a snack bar, chairs for rent) and the activities (volleyball, tennis, swings, concerts, a playground, an assortment of sailboats and kayaks). The July Fourth fireworks celebration is held here. Look for the skateboarding park, for which helmets and pads are required.

CHILDREN’S BEACH

Francis Street Beach, a 5-minute walk from Main Street at Washington and Francis Streets. This harbor beach is calm. There are kayak rentals, portable restrooms, and a small jungle gym.

Dionis, off Eel Point Road from the Madaket and Dionis bike paths (see To Do). Nantucket’s only beach with dunes, Dionis is about 3 miles from town. The beach starts out narrow but becomes more expansive (and less populated) as you walk farther east or west. Facilities include a bathhouse.

SOUTHERN BEACHES

Surfside, off Surfside Road; large parking lot. Three miles from town and accessible by shuttle bus, this wide beach is popular with college students and families with older kids because of its proximity to town and its moderate-to-heavy surf. Kite flying, surf casting, and picnicking are popular. Facilities include restrooms, lifeguards, showers, and a snack bar.

Nobadeer, east of Surfside, near the airport and about 4 miles from town. There are no facilities at Nobadeer, but there is plenty of surf.

Madaket, at the end of the scenic Madaket Bike Path (see To Do). About 5 miles west of town (served by shuttle bus), Madaket is perhaps the most popular place to watch sunsets. This long beach has heavy surf and strong currents; there are lifeguards, portable restrooms, and very little parking.

Cisco, off Hummock Pond Road from Milk Street. About 4 miles from town, this long beach is popular with surfers. There are lifeguards and surfing lessons for kids, but very little parking.

“Nude Beach,” an unofficial beach, certainly, is unofficially located between Miacomet and Cisco.

EASTERN BEACHES

’Sconset (a.k.a. Codfish Park), at the end of the ’Sconset Bike Path; turn right at the rotary. About 7 miles from town and accessible by shuttle bus, this long, narrow beach takes a pounding by heavy surf. Seaweed lines the beach when the surf whips up. Facilities include lifeguards, a playground, and very limited parking.

PONDS Long Pond. Take Madaket Road from town and, when you reach the Hither Creek sign, turn left onto a dirt road. This 64-acre Land Bank property is great for birding. A mile-long path around the pond passes meadows and a cranberry bog.

Miacomet Pond, Miacomet Avenue (which turns into a dirt road), off Surfside Road. This long, narrow, freshwater pond next to the ocean has a sandy shore and is surrounded by grasses and heath. This Land Bank property is a pleasant place for a picnic, and the swans and ducks make it more so.

Sesachacha Pond. Take Polpis Road to Quidnet Road. A narrow barrier beach separates the pond and ocean. There’s a nice view of the Sankaty Head Lighthouse from here. Makes a nice afternoon with the kids.

WALKS The Moors and Altar Rock, off Polpis Road, to the south, on an unmarked dirt road. When you want to get away from the summertime masses, head to the moors (preferably at dawn or dusk, when they’re most magical). From Altar Rock, the third-highest point on the island (rising a whopping 103 feet above sea level), there are expansive views of lowland heath, bogs, and moors. It’s stunning in autumn. The moors are also crisscrossed with trails and deeply rutted dirt roads.

Lily Pond Park, North Liberty Street. This 6-acre Land Bank property supports lots of wildlife and plant life, but the trail is often muddy. You may find wild blackberries, grapes, or blueberries.

Lodging

Consider making summertime reservations in February. No kidding. Also keep in mind that the historic district, while convenient, has its share of foot traffic (and boisterous socializers) late into the evening and that houses are also very close together. A 10-minute walk from Straight Wharf will put you in quieter surroundings. Most lodgings require a two- or three-night minimum stay in-season; I indicate only minimum-night-stay policies that go beyond that norm.

I also only indicate high season rates (and an abstract range at that!). You can also reasonably deduce that places are relatively lower, relative to one another, off-season.

Much to my chagrin, many places charge more for weekends than weekdays. Lastly, most places are not appropriate for small children. More and more folks are renting houses rather than staying in guest houses. Which means that, even though the number of B&B rooms dwindles every year, it’s worth calling at the last minute to check on availability—even at the primo places.

IN A CLASS BY THEMSELVES

ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF TOWN

Cliffside Beach Club (508-228-0618; cliffsidebeach.com), 46 Jefferson Avenue. Open late May to mid-October. Stylish simplicity, understated elegance, and breezy beachside living are the watchwords at this low-key luxe inn. You can’t get a bed closer to the beach than this: Decks sit on the beach, and a boardwalk over the sand connects the low-slung, weathered-shingle buildings. A private club when it opened in 1924, it has been in Robert Currie’s family since 1958. Family pride of ownership knows no bounds here. Improvements are constant. The lobby is large and airy, decorated with white wicker furniture, local art, and quilts hanging from the rafters. The dedicated breakfast room is sunny and window-filled. The 22 contemporary guest rooms (most with ocean views) feature handcrafted woodwork and granite bathrooms. Five newer suites, with outstanding views of dunes and sunsets, offer the most privacy. There is also a luxuriously simple three-bedroom apartment that almost defies description. If it were possible, I’d live in this unit forever. For meals, shuffle to the excellent Galley Beach (see Dining Out), the rustic-chic Bob’s Bar (open to resort guests only), or walk 15 minutes into town. For exercise, nothing on-island compares to their impressive health club, an oh-so-private 60-foot lap pool, leisure pool, Jacuzzi, and saunas. If you get the impression that I’m smitten with this place, you are correct. It’s pricey but it’s worth every penny. $$$$$+ rooms and suites.

AROUND THE ISLAND

The Wauwinet (508-228-0145; 508-426-8718; wauwinet.com), 120 Wauwinet Road. Open mid-May to late October. When privacy and extraordinary service are of utmost concern, this Relais & Châteaux property is the place. Nine miles from town, it occupies an unparalleled location between oceanside dunes and a beach-rimmed harbor. The 28 guest rooms and six cottages feature luxe linens and toiletries, pine armoires, Audubon prints, and sophisticated decorating touches. Public rooms are awash in chintz, trompe l’oeil, fresh flowers, and bleached woods. There’s practically no reason to leave the enclave. Facilities include tennis courts, a spa, boating, mountain bikes, croquet, a DVD library, lobstering demonstrations, afternoon port and cheese in the inn’s library, and Great Point nature trips. All are included in the room rates. Topper’s (see Dining Out) offers truly outstanding dining. In the morning, enjoy as much from the complimentary breakfast menu as you’d like. $$$$$+.

THE WAUWINET

HOTELS

IN TOWN

The Nantucket Hotel & Resort (508-228-4747; 508-310-1734; thenantuckethotel.com), 77 Easton Street. The owners of the top-notch Winnetu Oceanside Resort on Martha’s Vineyard have definitely outdone themselves. To say they have completely rehabbed this former hostelry does not come close to explaining the depths of their efforts and extraordinary execution. The grand, historic property is my new favorite place to stay on-island. It feels authentic and real; it caters to couples as ferociously as families; and it redefines the intersection of luxury and comfort. Oh, and the service—it artfully walks the fine line between attentive and giving guests their space. It almost has too many sweet spots to call out, but I’ll at least whet your appetite. In no particular order: two heated swimming pools, a full children’s program (free), a spa/fitness center, the excellent Breeze Restaurant (see Dining Out), an in-town/central location, super-sophisticated but oh-so-relaxed decor, a sense of whimsy throughout, rocking chairs lining the 1891 wraparound porch, and an appealing mix of hotel rooms, suites, and cottages. $$$–$$$$$+.

White Elephant Hotel (508-228-2500; whiteelephanthotel.com), Easton Street. Open late April to early November and during Stroll. After recent total renovations, the sedate White Elephant is more sedate than ever. A 10-minute walk from the center of town and on the edge of the harbor, many of the spacious 65 rooms, suites, and garden cottages have prime water views framed by shuttered white windows. Most have a balcony or deck; many suites have a fireplace. Decor is a sophisticated blend of leather armchairs and white wicker; crisp linens and textured, neutral fabrics; antique prints and contemporary artwork. Bathrooms boast fine toiletries, lots of white tile, and marble counters. Common space includes a handsome library, a fitness room, extensive spa, and broad lawns that reach a harborside dock. Inquire about their two in-town lofts (three-bedroom places that sleep eight with fully equipped kitchens, one of which includes use of a BMW). $$$$$+.

THE NANTUCKET HOTEL AND RESORT

NEAR THE AIRPORT

Nantucket Inn (508-228-6900; 800-321-8484; nantucketinn.net), 1 Miller Lane. Open mid-May to mid-October. The main reason I’m including this tasteful but undistinguished motor inn near the airport is because it has 100 rooms, which is a lot of rooms for this small island. Other amenities include an indoor pool, tennis courts, and a complimentary full breakfast. $$$.

INNS & BED & BREAKFASTS

IN TOWN

Union Street Inn (508-228-9222; unioninn.com), 7 Union Street. Open April through October. The island’s best run B&B, a circa 1770 hostelry, is run by innkeepers Ken and Deb Withrow with a sense of understated hospitality. You want to know perfection? Stay here. There are a variety of rooms, many with fireplace and all with air-conditioning and TV. The two-room suite and Room #3 (with pine-paneled wall and wing chairs in front of the fireplace) are the premier rooms, but smaller chambers aren’t slighted in any way. (Value-conscious shoppers should inquire about the inexpensive room with a detached bath.) After a new round of redecorating and renovating, the 12 rooms are more luxurious than ever, with fine linens, plush bathrobes, and fluffy duvets. On my last visit the full breakfast, served on the side patio, was a choice between an omelet with goat cheese and dill or bagel and smoked salmon. (It’s the only B&B that’s allowed to serve a full “B.”) The art of providing attentive service remains a strong suit here. $$$$–$$$$$+.

The Veranda House Hotel Collection (508-228-0695; theverandahouse.com), 3 Step Lane. Open mid-May to mid-October. This consortium consists of three properties where concierge and personalized service are hallmarks. The Veranda House, with 15 guest rooms and three suites, reflects a “retro chic” vibe—awash in black, white, and neutral tones with a splash of red here or there. No expense seems to have been spared, and it could certainly hold its own in SoHo. Gracious “extras” are the norm here: Balconies overlooking the harbor, goose down comforters, spanking new bathrooms with hip tile, and Frette linens make for a most hospitable stay. Fortunately, the owners kept one of the best features: three wraparound porches that offer spectacular views of Nantucket Harbor. For this reason and more, they’re to be seriously applauded. An ultrasophisticated continental breakfast is served on the patio by oversolicitous servers, and the terraced garden is a welcome respite. The three-room Arbor Cottage next door is all about a sense of calm, style, and privacy. Rooms have a fresh summery feel, with clean lines, a pale palette of whites, and a liberal dose of sisal and linens; amenities are top notch. You’ll long remember tucking into a decadent bed dressed in Frette linens and the epicurean breakfast across the lane at the Veranda. $$–$$$$$+.

THE VERANDA HOUSE

Anchor Inn (508-228-0072; anchor-inn.net), 66 Centre Street. This friendly B&B, one of the best values in town, has been innkeeper owned and operated since 1983. Charles and Ann Balas and their crackerjack staff offer 11 guest accommodations in a historic 1806 house; the most spacious rooms are corner ones with a queen canopy bed. All have tiled bathrooms, TV, air-conditioning, and comfortable period furnishings. One has a private porch. The less expensive rooms are snug but inviting, tucked under the eaves in the back of the house. A continental breakfast is served on the enclosed porch or carried to the tranquil side garden. Beach towels and ice packs are available in-season. $–$$.

Pineapple Inn (508-257-4577; pineappleinn.com), 10 Hussey Street. Open late April to late October and on Christmas Stroll weekend. This 1838 whaling captain’s house led the surge toward luxury B&B renovations in 1997 with a refined and understated elegance. Six years later it was acquired by the Summer House in its march toward the acquisition of fine properties around the island. Historic grace and modern conveniences (like air-conditioning) coexist comfortably in this 12-room inn. Except for the lack of an on-site innkeeper, first-rate touches surround you, including white marble bathrooms and custom-made four-poster beds fitted with Ralph Lauren linens and down comforters. I particularly like the enclosed back patio, complete with trickling water fountain; it makes for a nice respite from the crowds. Complimentary use of the Summer House Beach and Pool Club is included. $$–$$$.

THE PINEAPPLE INN

Ship’s Inn (508-228-0040; shipsinnnantucket.com), 13 Fair Street. Open May through October. Beyond the bustle of Main Street and a 10-minute walk from Straight Wharf, the Ship’s Inn is known for its fine dining (see Dining Out) but is a largely unsung, very comfortable choice for lodging. The three-story 1831 whaling captain’s house was completely restored in 1991. Its 13 large guest rooms, named for Capt. Obed Starbuck’s ships, all have refrigerator, air-conditioning, and TV. Many are bright corner rooms. Like the living room, they’re large, airy, and sparsely furnished to create a summery feel. Expanded continental breakfast included. $$–$$$, single with shared bath $.

 Vanessa Noel Hotel (508-228-5300; vanessanoelhotel.com), 5 Chestnut Street. The VNH—a chic but cozy boutique property by the noted, eponymous shoe designer—is often confused with the Vanessa Noel Green Hotel, which feels to me like overflow for VNH. Because there is so much confusion when visitors book online through various agencies, please be careful if you book. $$$–$$$$.

Martin House Inn (508-228-0678; martinhouseinn.com), 61 Centre Street. A resident innkeeper presides over this 1803 mariner’s house, an elegantly comfortable and relaxed place that consistently gets rave reviews. The side porch is decked out in white wicker; on cooler days you can curl up in front of the fire or in a window seat in the large living room. Many of the 13 guest rooms (four with shared bath) have canopy bed, period antiques, and fireplace. Some bright third-floor singles are tucked under the eaves. A continental buffet breakfast is served at one long table, or you can take a tray table to the porch or your room. $$–$$$; single rates, too.

MARTIN HOUSE INN

Centerboard Guest House (508-228-9696; centerboardinn.com), 8 Chester Street. Open April through December. A five- to 10-minute walk from the ferry, Centerboard is a restored 1886 former whaling captain’s home with a generally light Victorian sensibility. You’ll find pleasing contemporary touches throughout, including an outdoor fire pit. The second-floor rooms are romantic, with feather beds, luxurious linens, stripped floors and woodwork, and gleaming bathrooms. The two-room master suite features inlaid floors, rich woodwork, a working fireplace, marble bathroom, deep Jacuzzi tub, and pencil-post canopy bed. Two garden rooms are decidedly different. One is reminiscent of a houseboat, with built-in carpentry, a galley kitchen, a matching pair of raised double beds, and a snug twin berth; it can sleep five. Modern amenities include mini-refrigerators and flat-screen TVs. Expanded continental breakfast included. $$–$$$$.

Century House (508-228-0530; centuryhouse.com), 10 Cliff Road. Open mid-May to mid-October. The oldest continuously operating inn on Nantucket, dating to 1835, has 16 rooms and suites that are just far enough from the center of town to be quiet and just close enough for a pleasant walk. Innkeepers Gerry Connick and Jean Ellen Heron, hands-on owners since 1984, have created a homey and luxurious getaway, complete with an abundant Berry Buffet Breakfast enjoyed on the wraparound veranda or garden patio. Beach towels and tote are provided for the nearby sands. $$–$$$$$+.

The Chestnut House (508-228-0049; chestnuthouse.com), 3 Chestnut Street. Not many old-fashioned guest houses remain, and this one has been in the Carl family since the early 1980s. The family-friendly place is busy and eclectic, with local art taking up almost every inch of wall space. (See Hawthorn House, below, for more about familial contributions to decor.) Two-room suites can sleep four people if they are good friends, or a family. Otherwise, they are nice and roomy for two people. One suite is particularly quiet, and there is only one “regular” guest room. All have TV, a small refrigerator, air-conditioning; most have a DVD. The freestanding cottage is more like a suite, with a Murphy bed and separate kitchen. You’ll find added value in the additional bathrooms, which allow for a final post-beach shower and late departures. Rates include a daily breakfast voucher, valid at two good restaurants. $$–$$$; cottage more.

The Hawthorn House (508-228-1468; hawthornhouse.com), 2 Chestnut Street. A guest house since the mid-1940s, this simple B&B was built in 1849, so the rooms are small. Seven of nine guest rooms and suites are upstairs off a casual common area; all rooms have a private bath. Because the B&B is in the historic district, the two ground-floor rooms can be a tad noisy in the evening. Innkeepers Mitchell and Diane Carl came to Nantucket on their honeymoon and loved it so much they returned three years later to purchase the inn and have operated it since. Mitchell’s father made the hooked rugs; Diane made the needlepoint pillows; and his mother did most of the paintings. Mitchell is responsible for the lovely stained-glass panels. Inquire about the efficiency cottage and two-room suite. Rates include a daily breakfast voucher, valid at two good restaurants. $$.

21 Broad Hotel (508-228-4749; 21broadhotel.com), 21 Broad Street. Open when. This complete overhaul, restoration, and rehab (in 2014) bears zero resemblance to its former incarnation as the Nesbitt. If you’re a repeat visitor to Nantucket, you’ll probably walk by shaking your head, thinking, hey wait a minute . . .  Restoration was painstaking—and worth every second. Modern and almost urban in feel, this lively and breezy 27-room hotel suits travelers to a tee. From Vitamin C-infused showerheads (!) to loaner iPads to black out shades, they’ve overhauled the place with a fresh appeal—right down to a flickering fire housed in a concrete vessel in the living room to a back deck where you BYOB to add to their mixers. $$-$$$$$$+.

Jared Coffin House (508-228-2400; jaredcoffinhouse.com), 29 Broad Street. The island’s first three-story house, topped with a cupola and slate roof, was built in 1845 by a wealthy ship owner for his wife. Made of brick, it was also one of the few buildings to survive the Great Fire of 1846. One year later, after Coffin’s wife refused to live here, it was converted to an inn. (I simply note it here for its historical value.)

AROUND THE ISLAND

Summer House Cottages (508-257-4577; thesummerhouse.com), 17 Ocean Avenue, ’Sconset. Open late April to late October. The brochure’s photograph is almost too idyllic to believe: Honeysuckle vines and roses cover a shingled cottage with tiny windows; the double Dutch door opens to a white, skylit interior that’s cozy and simple. But it’s true! Dating to the 1840s, these enchanting cottages surround a colorful garden set with Adirondack chairs. The munchkin-like cottages have been updated with marble Jacuzzi bathtubs, English country-pine antiques, and hand-painted borders; some have a fireplace and kitchen. All have off-season heat. Shuffle across the street to the eastern beach or to the inn’s pool, nestled in the dunes just below the bluff. Drinks and lunch are served in their dining room, as well as pool- and oceanside. Continental breakfast included. $$$$$+, more for two- and three-bedroom cottages.

COTTAGES

IN TOWN

The Cottages (508-325-1499; thecottagesnantucket.com), 24 Old South Wharf. Open early May through November. These 29 snug cottages are fun for a change, although they’ll cost a pretty penny for all that fun! Occupying a unique location—jutting out on wharves in the midst of harbor activity—most have private decks and water views; all have fully equipped kitchens, TVs, and daily maid service. Although the cottages are small and rather rustic by Nantucket standards, they’re efficiently designed and crisply decorated in yellows, whites, and blues. It can be noisy on the pier, but that’s part of the fun of staying here. Complimentary daily shuttle to Surfside Beach, and guests have access to the new spa at the White Elephant Hotel (see above). Several of the cottages, known as the Woof Cottages, are also pet-friendly. $$$$$+.

See also The Chestnut House, Hawthorn House, and Anchor Inn under Inns and Bed & Breakfasts.

JARED COFFIN HOUSE

AROUND THE ISLAND

Wade Cottages (508-257-1464; wadecottages.com), 37 Shell Street, ’Sconset. Open early May to early October. There’s nothing between the property and the ocean here except a broad lawn and an ocean bluff. Parents will appreciate the wide-open lawns and the play area and swings for kids. The five apartments have from one to three bedrooms. A portion of this private estate is still used by Wade family members. Rented weekly.

See also Summer House ’Sconset under Inns and Bed & Breakfasts.

RENTAL HOUSES Many islanders are opposed to the residential building boom that began in earnest in the mid-1990s because the island’s infrastructure just can’t handle it. But there’s no going back. There are thousands of new three- to seven-bedroom rental houses on the market. Expect a nice two-bedroom house to rent for $2,000 to $4,000 weekly in August.

Congdon & Coleman (508-325-5000; congdonandcoleman.com), 57 Main Street.

Jordan Associates (508-228-4449; jordanre.com), 8 Federal Street.

Barntucket (508-228-4835; barntucket.com), 73 North Liberty Street. A five-bedroom, three-bath beauty built in the early 1800s, with prices that are actually quite reasonable if you’re splitting them among five other couples or individuals.

TimeAndPlace.com. A stellar site with premier homes for rent.

CAMPGROUNDS Camping is not permitted.

HOSTEL Hostelling International Nantucket (508-228-0433; hiusa.org/hostels), 31 Western Avenue. Open mid-May to early October. Originally built in 1873 as the island’s first lifesaving station, and now on the National Register of Historic Places, this hostel is 3 miles from town on Surfside Beach (see Green Space) and steps from the NRTA beach shuttle. Facilities include a kitchen, BBQ and picnic area, and volleyball. Dormitory-style, gender-separated rooms accommodate about 50 people; inquire about private rooms. Reservations are essential in July and August and on all weekends. Continental breakfast included.

Where to Eat

The dining scene here is highly evolved. Enough Nantucket diners are so passionate about haute cuisine that the island supports one of the densest concentrations of fine-dining establishments in the country. And one of the most expensive: $50 entrées are commonplace. Some restaurants offer less expensive, bistro-style fare in addition to their regular menu.

Prices aside, many of Nantucket’s 60-some restaurants would hold their own in New York or San Francisco. It’s rare to be served a bad meal in Nantucket, but some restaurants do offer more value (note the v symbol for value) than others.

A few more details: Unless otherwise noted, reservations are highly recommended at all Dining Out establishments. In addition, you might need to reconfirm your reservation on the day of or you’ll lose it. There are perhaps 10 restaurants (not all are reviewed here) that serve the year-round community. Generally, you can assume that all places below are open daily late June to early September.

Because dining particulars (which meals are served on which days) change with lightning speed, I simply indicate which meals are served. Never assume a particular meal is offered on any particular day or month. It’s best to pick up the phone.

By the way, don’t pass up the opportunity to have bay scallops after mid-October (when the scalloping season begins). The experience might explain why Nantucketers are so passionate about food.

DINING OUT

IN TOWN

Boarding House (508-228-9622; boardinghousenantucket.com), 12 Federal Street. Open D and brunch, May through December. Chef-owners Seth and Angela Raynor’s contemporary, sexy, Euro- and Asian-inspired cuisine stands center stage at one of Nantucket’s most consistent and superior restaurants. An award-winning wine list and organic ingredients from local farms are featured. As for atmosphere, with brick and plaster arched walls, the main dining room is cozy. At street level, there’s a lively bar packed with locals and 30-something visitors; it’s a real scene and has an extensive appetizer menu. But in good weather, the patio—surrounded by flowers and a white picket fence—is the place you’ll want to be. It’s common for folks to line up in summer at 4 PM for one of these seats. D $$$–$$$$, brunch $$.

The Pearl (508-228-9701; thepearlnantucket.com), 12 Federal Street. Open D, May through October. From the attitude to the oh-so-trendy-cocktail bar to the whole scene, don’t look now: You just might be in Miami’s South Beach. Executive chef-owner Seth Raynor (see Boarding House, above) has furthered his winning formula of coastal cuisine prepared with an Asian flair. The atmosphere and cuisine here are sophisticated, relaxing, and dramatic. (Note the onyx bar, huge fish tanks filled with brilliant fish and coral, pearl-shaped ceiling, and pale blue lighting.) Although the menu changes frequently, you can always count on creatively prepared native seafood and local fish. Patrons are particularly fond of tuna martinis (nonalcoholic) and Chef Seth’s wok-fried lobster. After dinner the pearl transforms into a late-night lounge. $$$$–$$$$$.

COMPANY OF THE CAULDRON

THE PEARL

Company of the Cauldron (508-228-4016; companyofthecauldron.com), 5 India Street. Open D, late May to mid-October and on Christmas Stroll weekend (see Special Events). Peer through ivy-covered, small-paned windows and you’ll see what looks like an intimate dinner party. Sure enough, since the tables are so close together, you’ll probably end up talking to your neighbors before the night is over. It’s a warm and inviting place, with low-beamed ceilings and plaster walls illuminated by candlelight and wall sconces. Classical harp music wafts in the background three evenings of the week. The New American menu is set a week in advance (check on Friday by 5 PM), but it might go something like this: a trio of crab, lobster, and salmon cakes with three luxurious sauces; a mesclun salad with caramelized shallot vinaigrette; ginger- and herb-crusted rack of lamb with blackberries and pine nut couscous; and a pear almond tart to top it all off. One or two seatings; prix fixe $$$$$+.

THE BREEZE BAR & CAFÉ

American Seasons (508-228-7111; americanseasons.com), 80 Centre Street. Open D, April to mid-December. While inspired by America’s regional traditions, Chef Neil Ferguson’s menu is both inviting and innovative. The ever-changing menu might feature venison saddle with red cabbage and rutabaga purée or black pearl salmon with an apple-bacon compote, sunchoke puree, and hazelnuts. Portions are balanced with savory and sweet tastes, crunchy and smooth textures. Not up to a full-on meal? Sip a cocktail, dine from the (light) bar menu, and add a fanciful dessert. The candlelit dining room is as tasteful as they come. $$$–$$$$. 

Cru (508-228-9278; crunantucket.com), 1 Straight Wharf. Open L, D, mid-May to mid-October. Night or day, try to get a chic outdoor patio table at Nantucket’s only harborside (yachtside might be more apt) restaurant. If you can’t, though, don’t worry; the upscale interior is open to sea breezes and rolling fog banks. Lunchtime is a bit less of a scene than dinner, but no matter the time of day, drinks are super-pricey. I prefer to come for lobster rolls and oysters from the raw bar; I stay away from the clams. The super-bustling (read loud and buzzy) Cru occupies the former perch of the longtime Ropewalk. Oh, and they take reservations for the best seats; try your luck! $$$–$$$$.

Breeze Bar & Café (508-228-4730; thenantuckethotel.com), 77 Easton Street. Open B, Sunday brunch, L, D. Within the Nantucket Hotel & Resort, this welcome addition to the local dining scene excels in so many important ways: personalized attention, great cuisine at good prices, and a lack of pretense. It’s a breath of fresh air and a downright pleasure. (And it doesn’t feel like a hotel restaurant.) Start with super-tasty lobster bisque or perfectly light calamari rings and move to utterly satisfying crabcakes (with practically no filler) or a big bowl of clams. Oh yeah, and then there are those incredible truffle fries and that lunchtime lobster-stuffed burger. Desserts are homey: think brownie sundaes and other treats that hark back to simpler times. Throughout the deep winter, the café is open for light bar meals most nights and full dinners on weekends. $$$–$$$$.

Ship’s Inn Restaurant (508-228-0040; shipsinnnantucket.com), 13 Fair Street. Open D, May through October. Longtime chef-owner Mark Gottwald, who graduated from La Varenne in Paris and apprenticed at Le Cirque and Spago, serves California-French-style cuisine in a romantic, subterranean, bistro-style space. He often catches his own seafood, too. I always leave here very satisfied. Many dishes are healthful (that is, sans butter or cream) without sacrificing taste or creativity. I particularly like the signature sautéed halibut with a cognac lobster ragout. Save room for the chocolate soufflé. They have an award-winning wine list; sit at the old dory boat bar and enjoy a glass. $$$–$$$$.

Straight Wharf Restaurant (508-228-4499; straightwharfrestaurant.com), 6 Harbor Square. Open D, June through October, as well as lunch and brunch in July and August. When given the choice, I prefer the more casual dining, reasonable price points, and first-come, first-served nature of the bar. It’s also pleasantly upbeat and zippy (despite no air-conditioning). No matter where and when you dine, though—whether it’s on the deck overlooking the harbor or in the lofty main dining room with exposed rafters—the New American dishes are well prepared and elegantly presented. Look for the likes of wood-grilled sirloin or a clambake with buttered lobster, sweet corn, chorizo, and potatoes. Other dishes might overwhelm some palates and totally tantalize others: pumpkin chowder with cranberries, fennel, and shoestring potatoes; dayboat scallops with royal trumpets, kumquats, butternut squash, and vadouvan-cauliflower purée; and chèvre cheesecake with Concord grapes, walnut crust, and quince sorbet. L $$–$$$, D $$$–$$$$$.

Lola 41 (508-325-4001; lola41.com), 15 South Beach Street. Open L, D. This is one hip eatery. I mean, really. Walk through the doors and you’ll forget you’re on Nantucket. Along with boasting a “global bistro menu,” Lola 41 specializes in sushi, sashimi, and designer rolls. Try the excellent gnocchi Bolognese, or go for one of the house specialties: sesame-crusted calamari with Korean chili dipping sauce or a house-ground rib eye served on an English muffin. Bring a fun attitude and live it up. No reservations taken in summer. D $$$–$$$$.

Brant Point Grill (508-325-1320; whiteelephanthotel.com), at the White Elephant Hotel, 50 Easton Street. Open B, L, D, seasonally. There’s no more pleasant place to have an alfresco luncheon than this harborside terrace. (Heaters and awnings keep it warm well into autumn.) The handsome grill with attentive service specializes in steamed and grilled lobsters and thick, juicy steaks. Nothing is too fussy or overdone. On Friday afternoons check out the raw bar, too. B $–$$, L $$–$$$, D $$$$–$$$$$, Sunday brunch $$$$.

Club Car (508-228-1101; theclubcar.com), 1 Main Street. Open L, D, mid-May through October. The kitchen has been churning out the same Continental cuisine since 1972, and its off-season beef Wellington Sunday-evening specials are still classic—best enjoyed in the elegant and haughty dining room, set with linen and silver. I prefer to come simply for a seafood salad and chowder at lunch—and to enjoy the only remaining club car from the narrow-gauge train that used to run between Steamboat Wharf and ’Sconset. Depending on the time of night, be prepared for sing-alongs at the piano bar. L $$, D $$$$–$$$$$.

Fifty-Six Union (508-228-6135; fiftysixunion.com), 56 Union Street. Open D. Since they opened in 2003, chef-owners Peter and Wendy Jannelle have succeeded in creating a friendly find away from tourists roaming the more well-known haunts downtown. It’s one of the more playful and lighthearted “serious” restaurants in town—to wit, you can’t miss the mannequins out front. Seasonal menus reflect what’s fresh in the world of global cuisine: Curried mussels and dayboat summer fluke are personal favorites. There are two seatings (at 5:30 PM and 8:15 PM during peak season; open seating rest of year) at banquettes as well as patio dining. Inquire about the outdoor table “#56.” $$$–$$$$$.

ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF TOWN

Galley Beach (508-228-9641; galleybeach.net), 54 Jefferson Avenue. Open L, weekend brunch, D, late April to late October. At the Cliffside Beach Club (but with no relation to it), you’ll literally dine beachside, drinking in sunsets along with your cosmos. But this isn’t a sand-in-your-shoes kind of place—it’s elegant, candlelit dining on Nantucket Sound, thanks to a multimillion-dollar renovation in 2009, complete with a zinc bar. The coastal cuisine menu features sea scallops, other local seafood, and organic greens. A restaurant with this kind of location might be content to pass, but the Galley Beach is absolutely stellar in all ways. L $$–$$$, D $$$$–$$$$$+.

Island Kitchen (508-228-2639; nantucketislandkitchen.com), 1 Chin’s Way. Open B, L, D. This super-pleasant place is owned by the former chef of famed Le Languedoc, Patrick, and features locally sourced New American cuisine. It’s a great find and value. Even better? It’s not “a scene,” and it’s heavily patronized by old Nantucket folks rather than newcomers. Dress down, appreciate a limited menu (knowing that they concentrate on doing a few things well), and sit back and enjoy. It’s across the street from Stop & Shop, so there’s plenty of parking. L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

AROUND THE ISLAND

Topper’s (508-228-8768; wauwinet.com), 120 Wauwinet Road, Wauwinet. Open for L, D, and Sunday brunch, May through October. You could break the bank here and Topper’s would still be worth every penny. All the superlatives in the dictionary just can’t do the place justice. The setting and service are luxurious, indulgent, and sophisticated yet relaxed. Regional dishes are downright sublime: New American cuisine is matched by outstanding pairings from a French and California wine list. (Topper’s consistently wins the just-about-impossible-to-win Wine Spectator Grand Award). And to quote myself in National Geographic Traveler, “Their wine pairing is unrivaled on the Eastern Seaboard.”) On my most recent visit, I splurged on the off-season six-course degustation menu with wine pairing. Each dish and wine comes into its own when paired with the other: one plus one equals three. It’s pricey, but it’s an uncommonly rare dining experience. Dishes and wines ascend in boldness, telling a story exuberantly, then come back down to earth. For lunch, served on the bayside porch, Topper’s offers a two-course menu ($$$). Topper’s offers complimentary van service from town, as well as transportation aboard the Wauwinet Lady, which takes guests from Straight Wharf to the restaurant’s private dock in-season. Kudos to chef Kyle Zachary and the whole staff. Brunch $$–$$$$, L $$$, D $$$$$, multicourse prix fixe, too.

’Sconset Café (508-257-4008; sconsetcafe.com), 8 Main Street, ’Sconset. Open L, D, mid-May to mid-September, breakfast in summer. This tiny place is always great. It’s known for its chowder with herbs, but you’ll also find creative salads and sandwiches at lunch. Chef-owner Rolf Nelson’s dinners really shine and tend toward sophisticated New American dishes. The menu changes constantly, but chocolate volcano cake is often the dessert specialty. Reservations accepted for 6 PM seating only. No credit cards; BYOB. Rolf owns the wine shop next door, where he recommends wines that go with his menu. Customers typically buy their wine there for dinner. B $, L $$, D $$–$$$$.

‘SCONSET CAFÉ

The Chanticleer (508-257-4499; thechanticleer.net), 9 New Street, ’Sconset. Open L, D, May through October. This venerated institution features a modern French menu emphasizing New England and artisan ingredients. Meals are served in the courtyard of a rose-covered cottage, in small dining rooms overlooking the courtyard through small-paned windows, or in the more formal main dining room with low ceilings. Local fish, local produce, and game birds are highlighted. I suspect that dining here will live on in your memory for years. The wine list is outstanding. Jackets preferred. L $$$–$$$$, D $$$–$$$$$.

EATING OUT

IN TOWN

Centre Street Bistro (508-228-8470; nantucketbistro.com), 29 Centre Street. Open B, L, D. Chef-owners Ruth and Tim Pitts, who have been cooking on-island since 1989, have cultivated a deservedly loyal following. Perhaps it’s because they serve exceedingly good food at even better prices. Their ever-evolving menu might include dishes like cheeseburger tortilla, but I often revert to their signature smoked salmon taco. Or start your day with their “Nantucket Breakfast”—scrambled eggs, bacon, potato pancake, and blueberry pancake. There are only a couple of dozen seats (and a small bar) within this Mediterranean-style space, but that’s fine, as people enjoy the summertime patio. BYOB. B, L $; D $$–$$$.

THE CHANTICLEER

Black-Eyed Susan’s (508-325-0308; black-eyedsusans.com), 10 India Street. Open for brunch, D, seasonally. This small place with no air-conditioning and with pickled walls is part bistro, part glorified lunch counter with open kitchen. Hip, funky (in a good way), mellow, and homey, the downscale decor belies the stylishly presented plates. The global menu changes frequently, but look for complex fish preparations and dishes like North African spiced chicken with seasonal veggies. Breakfasts run the gamut from bagels and grits to Pennsylvania Dutch pancakes and a veggie scramble with pesto (made with eggs or tofu). BYOB. No credit cards. B $–$$, D $$–$$$.

Brotherhood of Thieves (508-228-2551; brotherhoodofthieves.com), 23 Broad Street. Open L, D. The 1840s former whaling tavern feels like an English pub: brick walls, beamed ceilings, and few windows. It’s a convivial place—helped along by an extensive coffee and drinks menu—frequented by locals chowing on good chowder, burgers, cheddar cheese soup, shoestring fries (long and curly), and thick sandwiches. Open until late at night. Expect a line in summer; patio dining available until mid-October. L $$, D $$–$$$.

Fog Island Café (508-228-1818; fogisland.com), 7 South Water Street. Open B, L, D. Anne and Mark Dawson preside over one of the top two or three breakfast joints on-island. Casual and inviting with wooden tables and booths, they offer food that you can relate to: burgers, quesadillas, and specialty sandwiches at lunchtime, and grilled salmon and roasted pork loin at dinner. I love the thick-cut brioche French toast and Nantucket fishcakes in the morning (as long as I’m skipping lunch). They also do breakfast and lunch to go. B $–$$, L and D $$.

BLACK-EYED SUSAN’S

Sushi by Yoshi (508-228-1801; sushibyyoshi.com), 2 East Chestnut Street. Open L, D. When you tire of eating fancy gourmet preparations, this small place offers fresh sushi and sashimi, Aloha rolls with yellowtail tuna from Japan, dynamite rolls, and noodle dishes. For dessert, consider banana tempura or green tea ice cream. They do a brisk take-out business. BYOB. Dishes $–$$$.

Rose & Crown (508-228-2595; theroseandcrown.com), 23 South Water Street. Open L, D, mid-April through September. This hopping place serves OK American fare—sandwiches, pastas, chicken wings, steak, and seafood—in a traditional pub atmosphere. Formerly a carriage livery, the large, barnlike room is decorated with signs from old Nantucket businesses. Dishes $–$$.

Starlight Café (508-228-4479; starlightack.com), 1 North Union Street. Open L, D. I like to come to this low-key spot for live music in the summer, a glass of wine, and their house specialty: lobster macaroni and cheese. The arbor patio is perfect on a warm summer night. Look for Italian Nights and late-night menus, too. L $–$$, D $$–$$$.

Nantucket Lobster Trap (508-228-4200; nantucketlobstertrap.com), 23 Washington Street. Open D, May through September. If you’ve got a hankering for lobster, plain and simple, head to this casual eatery with barn-board walls and booths. (I recommend only the basic lobster here.) Other pluses include a large patio and outdoor bar; Tuesday “Buck-a-Shuck” with bluegrass and folk music; delivery and take-out packed with dinnerware with beach picnicking in mind; and a food truck parked outside Cisco Brewery starting at noon. $$$–$$$$.

ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF TOWN

Sea Grille (508-325-5700; theseagrille.com), 45 Sparks Avenue. Open L, D. Despite having plenty of parking, this attractive restaurant is overlooked by nonlocals (except in winter, when it’s one of a handful open). Every kind of seafood and fish is prepared practically every way: as bouillabaisse (a specialty), grilled, blackened, steamed, fried, and raw (there’s an extensive raw bar). Light meals at the bar are a good alternative. The wine list is excellent. L $$–$$$, D $$$–$$$$.

LIGHT FARE & COFFEE

IN TOWN

Provisions (508-228-3258; provisionsnantucket.com), 3 Straight Wharf at Harbor Square. Open early May to mid-October. Even in the height of summer, when this island institution is cranking, they make excellent sandwiches (big enough to feed two people), salads, and soups. Hot and cold vegetarian dishes, too. Since 1979.

BROTHERHOOD OF THIEVES

The Bean (508-228-6215; nantucketcoffee.com), 4 India Street. This funky little café has strong coffee, specialty teas, and baked goods. Grab a local newspaper, play some board games, and watch this rarefied world go by.

Henry Jr. (508-228-3035), 129 Orange Street. Open mid-May to mid-October. Downright excellent sandwiches with fast, efficient service.

“The Street.” The first block of Steamboat Wharf is lined with fast-food shops appreciated by families and those catching ferries. Take-out eateries are generally open May to mid-October.

The Juice Bar (508-228-5799), 12 Broad Street. Open late May to mid-October. Yes, they offer fresh juices like carrot, lemonade, and orange, but they also make their own low-fat ice cream, nonfat yogurts, and breakfast baked goods. In fact, they make everything from scratch.

THE JUICE BAR

Congdon’s Pharmacy Soda Fountain (508-228-0180), 45 Main Street. This old-fashioned drugstore soda fountain, complete with swivel stools at Formica counters, offers egg creams, milk shakes, inexpensive soups, sandwiches, and New York City–style hot dogs.

ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF TOWN

Downy Flake (508-228-4533; thedownyflake.com), 18 Sparks Avenue. Open April through February. Order justifiably famous doughnuts (there are only three kinds, but who cares?) and pancakes (but not on the same morning, please) from this island institution. Light lunches, too.

Nantucket Bake Shop (508-228-2797; nantucketbakeshop.com), 17½ Old South Road. Open April through November. Its advertisement claims more than 100 different items baked daily, including Portuguese breads, desserts, muffins, croissants, quiches, cakes, and pastries. You can take Jay and Magee Detmer’s word for it; they’ve been baking the goodies since 1976.

Pi Pizzeria (508-228-1130; pipizzeria.com), 11 West Creek Road. Excellent wood-fired, thin-crust pizza for take-out and dining in. Someone in your group not a pizza fan? Nightly seasonal alternatives include roasted cod, beet salad, chicken piccata, and New York strip. Large pizzas $$, other dishes $$–$$$.

AROUND THE ISLAND

Claudette’s, (508-257-6622), 10 Main Street at Post Office Square, ’Sconset. Open mid-May to mid-October. Known primarily for catering (perhaps the best catered clambakes on Nantucket), this tiny shop’s raisons d’être are box lunches and lemon cake. Although there are a few indoor tables, most people take their sandwiches to the beach or ice cream to the front deck.

Entertainment

MUSIC Band concerts (508-228-7213) at the Children’s Beach bandstand off South Beach Street. They’re mostly held on Thursday and Sunday early evenings in July and August.

Noonday concerts (508-228-5466), 11 Orange Street at the Unitarian Universalist Church. These concerts, featuring ensembles, soloists, and an 1831 Goodrich pipe organ, are held on Thursday in July and August. Donations.

Nantucket Musical Arts Society (508-228-1287; nantucketmusicalartssociety.org), 62 Centre Street at the First Congregational Church. Look for concerts with world-renowned musicians on most Tuesday evenings in July and August. On the night before the concert, there is a meet-the-artist event hosted at the Unitarian Universalist Church, 11 Orange Street. $$.

THEATER Theatre Workshop of Nantucket (508-228-4305; theatreworkshop.com), Methodist Church, 2 Centre Street. Since 1956, this community-based group has staged a variety of plays, musicals, and comedy nights.

See also Dreamland Theater under Movies/Films, below.

MOVIES & FILMS Dreamland Theater (508-332-4822; nantucketdreamland.org), 17 South Water Street. This institution has a long and beloved history. It began as a Quaker meetinghouse, was converted to the Atlantic Straw Company, and was eventually moved to Brant Point to serve as part of a hotel before it was floated back across the harbor in 1905 on a barge. More recently it shuttered its doors to first-run movies in 2005 and was headed for demolition. But thanks to a powerhouse of locals (hedge fund managers, the wife of Google’s CEO, the former CEO of Starwood Hotels, and more), it was purchased for almost $10 million in the late 2000s and reopened in fall 2010 after an enormous renovation. It’s just another little example of summer folks pitching in to help preserve a little of Nantucket’s history. Year-round movies, children’s theater, speaker series, and wide-ranging collaborations for visual and performing arts programming.

Starlight Theatre and Café (508-228-4435; starlightack.com), 1 North Union Street, shows first-run movies. Drop by the café for a drink before or after the show. See Eating Out.

NIGHTLIFE Chicken Box (508-228-9717; thechickenbox.com), 16 Dave Street, off Lower Orange Street. This divey, boxy bar and music club is very laid-back. When things quiet down in town, take a cab out to “The Box” to extend your night—if you’re into pool tables, table tennis, and live tunes. No, you can’t get chicken here, but you could in 1948 when it opened as a restaurant-club.

The Muse (508-228-6873; 508-228-1471 for take-out; 44 Surfside Road). This roadhouse has DJs, techno music, live bands (the Dave Matthews Band cut its teeth here), pool tables, table tennis, and a big-screen TV. It’s on the shuttle circuit and has take-out pizza, too.

Many Dining Out restaurants have bars that, when diners depart for the evening, become happenin’ places to socialize. Look for the symbol.

Selective Shopping

ANTIQUES Nina Hellman Antiques (508-228-3857; nauticalnantucket.com). Nautical items, folk art, Nantucket memorabilia, and work by scrimshander Charles A. Manghis, who gives scrimshaw demonstrations on premises.

The J. Butler Collection (508-228-8429; butlersoffarhills.com), 12 Main Street in rear courtyard. Open June to mid-October. Antiques and reproduction furnishings, collectibles, and dishware in a homey setting.

Antiques Depot (508-228-1287; nantucketantiquesdepot.com), 2 South Beach Street. An interesting collection of furniture and fine decorative arts.

ART GALLERIES Cecilia Joyce & Seward Johnson Gallery (Artists Association of Nantucket) (508-228-0294; nantucketarts.org), 19 Washington Street. Open April through December. This association of 200 artists was founded in 1945 to showcase members’ work. Changing AAN member exhibits, juried shows, demonstrations, and special events conspire to make this a vital venue for the local arts scene. See Special Programs.

Old South Wharf. Generally open mid-May to mid-October. Lined with small galleries, clothing stores, artisans, and a marine chandlery, Old South is located in the boat basin just beyond the Grand Union parking lot. Definitely wander over.

Art Cabinet (508-325-0994; artcabinet.com), 18 Dukes Road. Open May to late September. Owner Doerte Neudert showcases European contemporary artists; the relocated studio and sculpture garden are delightful.

Dane Gallery (508-228-7779; danegallery.com), 28 Centre Street. An outstanding shop with a dazzling array of sophisticated glass sculpture by artists like shop owner Robert Dane.

BOOKSTORES Nantucket Bookworks (508-228-4000; nantucketbookpartners.com), 25 Broad Street. This shop has a very well-chosen selection of travel books, literature, children’s books, and biographies—along with an incredibly helpful staff.

Mitchell’s Book Corner (508-228-1080; mitchellsbookcorner.com), 54 Main Street. This icon, which has anchored Main Street since the late 1960s, was sold in early 2008 to Wendy Schmidt, a philanthropist, wife of Eric Schmidt (Google CEO), and seasonal visitor to the island. The former owner, Mimi Berman, a descendant of astronomer Maria Mitchell, vowed to stay on for matchmaking (books to people, that is). There’s a great selection of maritime, whaling, and naturalist books. Sit and browse titles in the small “Nantucket Room,” which features all things Nantucket.

OLD SOUTH WHARF

LIGHTSHIP BASKETS

Although it is thought that Nantucket’s first famed baskets were made in the 1820s, they didn’t get their name until a bit later. When the first lightship anchored off the Nantucket coast to aid navigation around the treacherous shallow shoals, crewmembers were stationed on board for months at a time. In the spare daylight hours, sailors created round and oval rattan baskets using lathes and wooden molds. Stiff oak staves were steamed to make them more pliant; the bottoms were wooden. They were made to withstand the test of time. There are perhaps 20 stores and studios that sell authentic lightship baskets, which retail for hundreds to thousands of dollars and require at least 40 hours of work to produce. Among the shops that make them and take custom orders are Michael Kane Lightship Baskets (508-228-1548; michaelkaneslightshipbaskets.com), 18A Sparks Avenue, and Bill and Judy Sayle (508-228-9876), 112 Washington Street Extension.

Make it a point to visit the Nantucket Lightship Basket Museum (508-228-1177; nantucketlightshipbasketmuseum.org), 49 Union Street. Open late May to early October. This informative little museum has re-created a workshop with simple tools that helps visitors understand the simple techniques artisans employed to make exquisite baskets. With baskets from the 1850s to the present, the museum certainly helps promote the art form. $.

If you want to try making lightship baskets on your own, purchase kits and materials from Peter Finch Basketmaker (508-332-9803; bracklet.com), 5 Polliwog Pond. Because it’s a long walk to the shop, take the South Loop shuttle in summer.

The Golden Basket (508-228-4344; ackgoldenbasket.com), 18 Federal Street, sells miniature gold versions of the renowned baskets.

CLOTHES Hepburn (508-228-1458), 3 Salem Street. Open April through January. A chic boutique with designs for women executed in crushed velvet, satin, silk, and wool.

Johnston’s Cashmere (508-228-5450),4 Federal Street. Scottish cashmere, with a nice selection of classic women’s sweaters, dresses, and scarves.

Pollack’s (508-228-9940; pollacksnantucket.com), 5 South Water Street. Open mid-May through December. The personable proprietor, Bob Pollack, stocks comfortable, sophisticated clothing for men and women.

Murray’s Toggery Shop (508-228-0437; nantucketreds.com), 62 Main Street. This shop “invented” and owns the rights to Nantucket Reds, all-cotton pants that fade to pink after numerous washings—almost as “Nantucket” as lightship baskets. This is the only shop that sells the real thing, and has since 1945.

Peter Beaton Hat Studio (508-228-8456; peterbeaton.com), 16½ Federal Street and on Straight Wharf. Open April through December. Down a little walkway, this fun little shop has finely woven straw hats. Custom fitting and trimming, of course.

Zero Main (508-228-4401), 34 Centre Street. Formerly located at 0 Main Street, this shop is now known as Zero Main on Centre. It still sells classic and contemporary women’s clothes and shoes.

CRAFTS SHOPS Stephen Swift Furniture (508-228-0255; stephenswiftfurnituremaker.com), 23 Federal Street. Beautifully handcrafted chairs, benches, stools, beds, dressers, and other furnishings.

Erica Wilson Nantucket (508-228-9881; ericawilson.com), 25-27 Main Street. Wilson, an islander since 1958, is known worldwide for needlework and has taught the art to numerous celebrities. The store also sells jewelry and clothing.

Nantucket Looms (508-228-1908; nantucketlooms.com), 51 Main Street. Features weavers at work on their looms and their creations. Although customers are not allowed into the work area, they can watch the weavers through a window in the shop.

Claire Murray (508-228-1913; clairemurray.com), 11 South Water Street. Murray came to Nantucket in the late 1970s as an innkeeper and began hooking rugs during the long winter months. She has since given up the B&B business to concentrate on designing and opening more stores; her staff now makes the rugs. She sells finished pieces as well as kits.

Four Winds Craft Guild (fourwindscraftsguild.com), 15 Main Street, off Fair Street. Baskets, lightship purses, scrimshaw, and marine items.

FARM PRODUCE Main Street at Federal Street. Local produce is sold from the backs of trucks daily except Sunday, May through October. It doesn’t get any fresher than this.

MURRAY’S TOGGERY SHOP

Nantucket Farmers and Artisans Market (they’re always downtown, often at Cambridge and Union Streets, but constantly on the move). From 9 AM to noon on Saturdays, June to mid-October, weather permitting. Run by Sustainable Nantucket (sustainablenantucket.org), all products offered here are either grown or made on the island.

Bartlett’s Farm (508-228-9403; bartlettsfarm.com), 33 Bartlett Farm Road, off Hummock Pond Road. Bartlett’s boasts a 100-acre spread run by an eighth-generation islander family. Its market carries thousands of different food and nonfood items for any eating-related occasion, plus a kitchen selling paninis, deli items, and all kinds of food to go.

SPECIAL SHOPS Sweet Inspirations (508-228-5814; nantucketchocolate.com), 0 India Street. Purveyor of Nantucket Clipper Chocolates, displayed in luscious mounds in the glass cases. Of particular note are cranberry-based confections such as cranberry cheesecake truffles and chocolate-covered cranberries.

Nantucket Natural Oils (508-325-4740; nantucketnaturaloils.com), 12 Straight Wharf. A treat for the senses, this shop deals in essential oils and perfumes and looks like an old apothecary. Take a seat at the bar and let master perfumer John Harding custom-mix you an original fragrance. Gorgeous handblown glass perfume bottles, too.

Vanderbilt Gallery (508-325-4454; vanderbiltgallery.com), 18 Federal Street #B. Open April through December. An eclectic assemblage of paintings, sculpture, and classic custom jewelry.

The Toy Boat (508-228-4552; thetoyboat.com), Straight Wharf 41. An old-fashioned children’s toy store selling great wooden boats, a wooden ferryboat and dock system, rocking boats, cradles, handmade toys and puzzles, marbles, and books.

NANTUCKET FARMERS’ MARKET

Special Events

Contact the chamber of commerce (508-228-1700; nantucketchamber.org) for specific dates unless an alternative phone number is listed below. Also, remember that this is just a sampling of the larger, predictable annual events. The chamber produces an excellent events calendar.

Late April: Daffodil Festival (daffodil festival.com). In 1974 an islander donated more than a million daffodil bulbs to be planted along Nantucket’s main roads. It is estimated that after years of naturalization, there are now more than 3 million of these beauties. The official kickoff weekend to celebrate spring includes a vintage-car parade to ’Sconset, a tailgate picnic in ’Sconset, and a garden-club show. This is a Very Big Weekend.

May: Historic Preservation Month (508-228-1387; nantucketpreservation.org). This celebration of Nantucket’s rich local history and heritage includes discussions about preservation and education efforts. Wine Festival (617-527-9473; nantucketwinefestival.com). Look for Grand Tastings at the Nantucket Yacht Club, as well as winery dinners at local restaurants.

Late May: Figawi Sailboat Race (508-221-6891; figawi.com). A famed race over Memorial Day weekend that goes from Hyannis to Nantucket; since 1972.

Mid-June: Nantucket Film Festival (646-480-1900; nantucketfilmfestival.org). It’s been an intimate and important venue for new independent films and filmmakers since 1996. Screenings, Q&A seminars, staged readings, as well as panel discussions on how screenplays become movies and the art of writing screenplays. The festival has attracted the Farrelly brothers and Natalie Portman and included readings by Rosie Perez and Jerry Stiller.

July 4: Independence Day (508-228-0925). Main Street is closed off in the morning for pie- and watermelon-eating contests, a 5K run, a dunk tank, puppets, face painting, fire-hose battles, and more. Festivities are capped off with fireworks from Jetties Beach off Norton Beach Road.

Late July–early August: Billfish Tournament (508-228-2299; nantucketanglersclub.com). A weeklong event on Straight Wharf since 1969.

Mid-August: House Tour (508-325-5239; nantucketgardenclub.org). Sponsored by the Nantucket Garden Club since 1955 and featuring a different neighborhood every year; preregistration is required. Sandcastle & Sculpture Day. Jetties Beach off Norton Beach Road, since 1974.

Mid-September: Island Fair (508-228-7213). At the Tom Nevers Recreation Area, a two-day event with puppet show, flea market, music, food, pumpkin weighing contest, and more.

Late November–December: Nantucket Noel begins the day after Thanksgiving with a Christmas tree–lighting ceremony. Live Christmas trees decorated by island schoolchildren line Main Street, and special concerts and theatrical performances heighten the holiday cheer and merriment.

Early December: Christmas Stroll. Begun in 1973 and taking place on the first Saturday of December, the Stroll includes vintage-costumed carolers, festive store-window decorations, wreath exhibits, open houses, and a historic house tour. Marking the official “end” of tourist season, like the Daffodil Festival this is a Very Big Event. Make lodging reservations months in advance.