15 Whale Peak

SCENERY:

DIFFICULTY:

TRAIL CONDITION:

SOLITUDE:

CHILDREN:

DISTANCE: 4.5 miles round trip

HIKING TIME: 4–4.5 hours

OUTSTANDING FEATURES: A series of rocky ridges lined with piñon pines; hidden valleys; sweeping breezes; panoramic views

Beginning at an elevation of 3,896 feet in the center of Pinyon Mountain Valley, this hike seems more like a trek through a mountain pine forest than a visit to the desert. Educationally enchanting, the area gives hikers a broader view of what desert land can really be like. A mixture of short but steep ascents and valleys, the trail culminates at the top of Whale Peak, which, at 5,250 feet, is just short of a mile high. The wide, flattish peak top is like an island set in the sky and offers panoramic views.

OPTIONS: Make this a day hike, or backpack in and camp near the base of Whale Peak (or at some other point along the route) for an evening of serenity in this beautiful wilderness.

Directions: Where CA 78 meets County Route S2 (the Great Overland Route of 1849), head south on S2. At approximately 4.4 miles, note the large sign on the right marking your entrance into Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. A few feet past this, on the left, a smaller sign reads “Pinyon Mountains” and marks a dirt road (Pinyon Mountain Road). You’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to get to the trailhead, which is 5.7 miles up this increasingly rutted and rocky road. In a regular automobile, park where you can, adding walking miles to the total distance. In a four-wheel drive, proceed east up the road, ignoring turnoffs. You’ll reach the road’s crest in Pinyon Mountain Valley at 5.7 miles. Small turnouts allow for parking right next to the road, or drive up the 0.2-mile turnoff on the right to the opening of a narrow canyon divide, where you can also park.

GPS Coordinates		15 WHALE PEAK
UTM Zone (WGS84)		11S
Easting		563083
Northing		3656917
Latitude–Longitude		N 33º 2’ 56.2314”
		W 116º 19’ 27.6338”

If you’ve parked near the main dirt road, trek south across sandy, cholla-spotted desert toward the narrow canyon opening. From there, head south, with a slight westerly angle, directly into the divide. Continue on this obvious route up-canyon, using handholds to climb boulders as needed (nothing too difficult). The blue, gray, or gauzy, cloud-dotted sky is a soaring strip above, the point at which you’re aiming as you climb the narrow gorge. Enjoy the scent of abundant piñon pines as you brush past them. Opening the petals of their small, brown cones to expose the nuts in late summer and early fall, the trees provide food for resident birds and mammals.

At about 0.6 miles (0.4 from the canyon mouth), the trail levels, widening into a sandy wash, which you’ll follow southwest. After a short distance, take the discernible trail leading toward the ridge on your left. Climb the ridge, ascending quickly. At this point, the exact route isn’t as important as getting up and over, as is indicated by several rugged paths etched into the rocky soil. Continue at a slightly southwest clip, altered only by a couple of minor bends. At 0.9 miles, the trail approaches a flat expanse flanked by another ridge to the southeast (on your left). Your destination is on the other side of that formidable ridge. Bypass the climb by taking the level trail that curves decidedly more southwest (right). After about 0.2 miles on this catch-your-breath flat, the path bends left again, ascending only slightly, allowing you to save your energy for the remaining hike.

Savor the clear, pine-scented air and sweeping breezes here. You’ll note the prominent growth of a variety of lichen on the rocks, evidence of the oxygen-rich air in this wilderness. The winds sweep up from the desert valleys, rustle through the pines, ruffle hair, and cool sweat-moistened skin, then dash away again, with a sound like distant waves. To the south, the Laguna Mountains come into view, rising like the long, ridged span of a gator’s tail.

At just over a mile, the southeasterly route descends into a narrow, piñon-furred valley. The path ascends again, short, level stretches interspersed with short, steep climbs that top out after another 0.5 miles. Continue several yards across this flat section to a drop-off of sorts at the base of Whale Peak. Shaped as it’s named, the peak finally comes into view ahead. You’ll have traveled 1.8 miles from the main road turnout (1.6 from the canyon mouth). Move over and around boulders to the right, making your way to the southwestern base of Whale Peak. Here, a clear trail begins anew, level at first, then climbing to the peak. The path remains evident almost to the top, dwindling the last several yards, forcing you to carefully scramble up between the rocks and around dense piñon pines to reach the peak.

Whale Peak is a large, rather flat expanse covered with pines and boulders. The flat top, coupled with its growth and rocks, makes for a feeling of safety at this vantage point just under a mile in the sky. In the spring, butterflies are abundant, their flitter-flutter lending a fairytale air to this hike’s endpoint.

Near the center of this island in the sky, a metal can holds a cache of hikers’ notes behind a stone wall. Read through the entries, or perhaps add your own as you ponder the see-forever view.

Head back the way you came. When descending, choose your path carefully. Several trails snake their way down and around the mountain, some leading to high dead ends on boulder tops, requiring you to expend time and energy climbing back to the main path and trying again.