Above the Diagonal: Restaurants, Bars and Cafés
Price Categories
Prices for a three-course dinner per person with a bottle of house wine:
€ = under €25
€€ = €25–40
€€€ = €40–60
€€€€ = over €60
Restaurants
This area covers a lot of ground, so it has an equally broad range of restaurants, cafés and bars, from inexpensive student haunts and ‘ethnic’ restaurants in the Gràcia neighbourhood to top-notch Michelin-starred restaurants in the smarter zones and rustic outdoor restaurants in Collserola Park.
Catalan
A Contraluz
Milanesat, 19
Tel: 93-203 0658
Open: Daily L & D. €€€ (set menu €) [off map]
In a quiet street in the smart residential Tres Torres area (en route to the Monestir de Pedralbes), this house and garden make a relaxing place to dine, and frequented by a fashionable clientele. The reasonably priced lunchtime menu is a good option.
Abac
Av. Tibidabo, 1
Tel: 93-319 6600
Open: Tue–Sat L & D. €€€€ [off map]
With three Michelin stars to his name, young chef Jordi Cruz continues to reach creative heights in this exclusive restaurant in its own garden, which comes with 15 hotel rooms and a spa. An indulgent night for travelling gourmets is guaranteed.
Casa Joana
Major de Sarrià, 59
Tel: 93-203 1036
Open: Mon–Sat L & D. € [off map]
Very good value for this generally expensive part of town, especially the midday menu. A genuine, family-run restaurant where it’s good to choose traditional dishes like canelons.
Casa Trampa
Plaça de Vallvidrera, 3
Tel: 93-406 8051
Open: Tue–Thu & Sun L, Fri–Sat L & D. € [off map]
Traditional, homely Catalan restaurant with food to match, right in the centre of this charming ‘village’ that is part of the city. Their croquetas are a must. It is just a funicular ride away and well worth the trip. Combine a meal here with a walk in the Collserola Park. Closed in August.
Hisop
Passatge Marimon, 9
Tel: 93-241 3233
Open: Mon–Fri L & D, Sat D. €€€ [X [map], A1]
Catalan chef Oriol Ivern practises the latest culinary art of deconstructivism with amazing results in this minimalist restaurant, much acclaimed by foodies and proud winner of a Michelin star.
Roig Robí
Sèneca, 20
Tel: 93-218 9222
Open: Mon–Fri L & D, Sat D. €€€€ [C [map], B2]
Mercè Navarro’s famed restaurant is a beautifully subtle, elegant space with an inner garden, and food and service to match the high standard of the surroundings. A favourite with locals in the know.
Retro chic at Flash-Flash.
Greg Gladman/Apa Publications
International
Amir de Nit
Plaça del Sol, 2
Tel: 93-218 5121
Open: Daily L & D. € [V [map], B1]
There are quite a few Lebanese places in Barcelona now, but this has always been a firm favourite. It has a large choice of well-prepared, delicious dishes, and its location in one corner of this popular square in Gràcia is perfect, especially for eating alfresco on a summer evening.
Flash-Flash
Granada del Penedès, 25
Tel: 93-237 0990
Open: Daily L & D. €–€€ [B [map], A1]
Almost a period piece now, this bar was super-trendy in the 1970s. Its wonderful white leatherette seating and black-and-white Warhol-type prints on the walls still have a lot of style and it’s a great place for tortillas (there are over 50 varieties to choose from) and hamburgers; the cheesecake is legendary.
Fragments Café
Plaça de la Concòrdia, 12
Tel: 93-419 9613
Open: Tue–Sat L & D. €–€€ [N [map], C1]
In a quiet square away from the tourist throngs, this pretty bar-restaurant serves vermuts and tapas on its terrace and delicious meals, including creative pasta dishes, at the bar or in its prized garden.
Tortilla, or Spanish omelette.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Spanish
Bilbao
Perill, 33
Tel: 93-458 9624
Open: Mon–Sat L & D. €€ [M [map], C2]
Find an animated atmosphere in this traditional eatery in Gràcia, frequented mainly by journalists, artists and writers. Especially busy at lunchtime. Try to get a table in the main part downstairs to enjoy the scene.
Gran de Gràcia, 81
Tel: 93-218 4230
Open: Daily L & D. €€€€ [< [map], B1]
This smart Galician restaurant, haunt of the rich and famous, has a long-running reputation as the place to eat seafood in Barcelona. Oysters are served at the bar.
Envalira
Plaça del Sol, 13
Tel: 93-218 5813
Open: Tue–Sat L & D, Sun L. €€–€€€ [> [map], B1]
A classic in the heart of Gràcia whose decoration does not seem to have changed in all the years the family has run it, but where you can be sure of an excellent arroz (rice dishes, including paella). The house speciality is arroz a la milanesa. This is Spanish cooking at its most genuine.
El Jardí de l’Abadessa
Abadessa d’Olzet, 26
Tel: 93-280 3754
Open: Mon–Sat L & D. Sun L. €€ [off map]
A very attractive uptown spot in a large garden, ideal for a peaceful lunch after a visit to the Monestir de Pedralbes, or to possibly rub shoulders with a Barça star on a summer evening. Serves light Mediterranean dishes. A great place to sip a glass of cava.
Roure
Riera Sant Miquel, 51
Tel: 93-218 7387
Open: Mon–Sat L & D. € [Ÿ [map], B1]
A real Barcelona corner bar that is always bustling, especially when there is a Barça match being broadcast. Popular with a strong band of regulars, it serves tapas all day long and meals at lunchtime (it’s worth coming for the paella on Thursday). Good value in every sense.
La Singular
Francisco Giner, 50
Tel: 93-237 5098
Open: Mon–Fri L & D, Sat D. € [Û [map], B1]
This is a wonderful little Gràcia restaurant with a warm, friendly atmosphere and great cooking, using seasonal local produce but giving it a creative edge.
Plaça Doctor Andreu, 1
Tel: 93-212 6455
Open: Tue–Sat L & D. Sun L. €€€ [off map]
One of the prettiest restaurants in the city, at the foot of the funicular to Tibidabo. High-class Mediterranean food – the perfect setting for springtime lunches or summer nights on the leafy terrace. El Mirador de la Venta is a more exclusive space upstairs, with magnificent views over the city.
In Café del Sol.
Greg Gladman/Apa Publications
Bars and Cafés
L’Astrolabi
Martínez de la Rosa, 14
[t [map],B2]
This small bar with a big personality, thanks to its welcoming owner Jordi and his loyal clientele, embodies the essence of Gràcia. Live music on some nights, usually of the singer-songwriter variety.
Bar Tomás
Major de Sarrià, 49
Tel: 93-203 1036
[off map]
People come to this happily untouched local bar from all over town to enjoy Tomás’s renowned patatas bravas (fried potatoes served with a spicy sauce and mayonnaise), made according to his own secret recipe.
Café del Sol
Plaça del Sol, 16
Tel: 93-237 1448
[y [map],B1]
Gràcia is characterised by narrow streets which open up into squares like this one, and each has a range of terrace bars. Café del Sol has a long history and is a landmark in the area, buzzing by day and well into the night.
Café Vienés
Passeig de Gràcia, 132
Tel: 93-255 3006
[u [map],B2]
Teas and cocktails are served in what was once a meeting place for the literati of the city, a legendary café which is now part of the exclusive Hotel Casa Fuster. Enjoy the chance to sit back and absorb the modernista decoration, with live jazz on Thursday evenings.
La Cervesera Artesana
Agustí, 14
Tel: 93-237 9594
[i [map],B2]
As craft beer festivals begin to gain momentum in Catalonia, interest is rising. In this bar in Gràcia you can try a tasty brew made on the premises.
Sol Soler
Plaça del Sol, 21
Tel: 93-217 4440
[o [map],B1]
A charming bar on this lively square with a peaceful, tiled interior, antique mirrors and small marble tables under the old beams. The cool staff serve delicious alternative tapas, with plenty of vegetarian options.