Price Categories
Prices for a three-course dinner per person with a bottle of house wine:
€ = under €25
€€ = €25–40
€€€ = €40–60
€€€€ = over €60
Restaurants
In rural areas all over Catalonia you’ll find well-kept roadside restaurants, popular for weddings, baptisms and other family occasions, where you can be sure of a good, traditional meal, with pa amb tomàquet and pork dishes as staples, as well as the regional or seasonal speciality. Catalonia is also hitting the headlines for its wave of avant-garde restaurants, where chefs create wonders and garner Michelin stars (advance booking essential). Explore villages where the local bar may have a wholesome dish of the day, unpretentious and delicious, cooked for local workers. Eating hours tend to be earlier than in the city.
Baro
El Carro
La Vinya s/n
Tel: 973-662 148
Open: Early July–early Sept daily L & D, rest of year Sat–Sun L & D. €€
Succulent local meat cooked in a woodburning oven, or a la brasa (charcoal grilled), and served in the shade of the garden close to the gushing Noguera Pallaresa river is an experience not to be missed. In a small village en route to the Aigüestortes National Park, though better to do the hiking before lunch.
Begur
La Pizzeta
Ventura i Sabater, 2
Tel: 972-623 884
Open: June–Aug daily D, mid-March–May, Sept–Oct Thu–Mon D. Closed Nov–mid-March. €€
This creative restaurant in the garden of a beautiful old village house serves not only imaginative pizzas and pasta, but also great salads, grilled local meat, a few Asian dishes and plenty for vegetarians. Charming and trendy, so book early.
Castelldefels
Mar Blanc
Ribera de Sant Pere, 17
Tel: 93-636 0075
Open: Tue–Sat L & D, Sun L. €€€
The plus here is that you can eat seafood on a terrace looking straight over the long beach and Mediterranean sea, which on a sunny day in mid-winter takes some beating. Rice dishes and calderetas (fish stews) are the speciality.
Figueres
Av. Salvador Dalí, 170
Tel: 972-500562
Open: Daily L & D. €€€
Its founder, the late Josep Mercader, has become a legend as one of the first chefs to reinvent Catalan dishes back in the 1950s. His charisma and inspiration live on in this well-established restaurant offering creative cooking using local ingredients. The hotel makes a good base for visiting the Dalí museums.
Tapas at a Girona bar.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Girona
El Celler de Can Roca
Can Sunyer, 48
Tel: 972-222 157
Open: Tue–Sat L & D. €€€€
One of the most established of the new wave of avant-garde restaurants in Catalonia, with three Michelin stars, this place was named top restaurant in the world in 2013. It’s run by the Roca brothers: Joan is the chef who conjures up dishes like a carpaccio of pigs’ trotters with vinaigrette, Josep advises expertly on wines and Jordi concentrates on the exotic desserts.
Maresme
Fonda Manau
Sant Josep, 11, Caldes d’Estrac
Tel: 93-791 0459
Open: July–Sept Wed–Mon L & D, Oct–June Fri, Sat L & D, Wed, Thu, Sun, Mon L. €€
This small fonda (inn) serves good, simple food in its pretty courtyard, although the creative flair of Xavi Manau, son of the former owner, is now coming to the fore, resulting in delicious dishes like squid tossed with wild mushrooms.
Reial, 54, Carretera N11, Arenys de Mar
Tel: 93-791 0306
Open: Mon, Wed–Sat L & D, Sun L. Closed Oct. €€€€
A classic of Catalan cuisine, which has been in the same family for 60 years. Known for their seasonal dishes using fresh local produce, such as peas from Llavaneres or fresh clams from the port of Arenys. Their crema catalana, the national dessert, is legendary.
Petit Moll
Platja l’Espigó de Garbí, Vilassar de Mar
Tel: 600-520 000
Open: Mid-May–early Sept daily L & D. €–€€
Very charming xiringuito (beachside restaurant) on a small beach, great for fresh sardines and salad after a swim. Only a 20-minute train ride from Barcelona but it feels more like Ibiza among the fishing boats.
Pizzeria Estrac
Camí Ral, 5, Caldes d’Estrac
Tel: 93-791 3188
Open: Sat–Sun L & D, (also Mon–Fri D July–mid-Sept). €
Pasta, salads and particularly good home-made pizzas in an attractive restaurant in the heart of this pretty village. Pizzas can also be taken away.
Penedès
El Mirador de les Caves
Carretera Sant Sadurní–Ordal, Subirats
Tel: 93-899 3178
Open: Tue–Sun L. €€
When visiting cava country, this is a good spot to sample the end product – and indulge in a good meal – while gazing across the vineyards that have produced it. Penedès wine and cava can be bought here, too.
Saldet
La Sal
Carretera de l’Armentera
Tel: 972-521 874
Open: Mid-June to mid-Sept Mon–Fri D, Sat–Sun L & D, mid-Sep to mid-June Fri D, Sat L & D, Sun L. €€ (€ tapas)
This newcomer, in a handsome old mill with vaulted ceilings and a peaceful garden just inland from the Costa Brava beaches in the Alt Empordà, is quite a discovery. Delicate and delicious creative dishes like deep-fried squid with black garlic mayonnaise or pumpkin and smoked cheese cannelloni make the journey worth it.
Sant Celoni
Can Fabes
Sant Joan, 6
Tel: 93-867 2851
Open: Wed–Sat L & D, Sun L. €€€€
People come from far and wide to enjoy the legacy of renowned avant-garde chef Santi Santamaria, who died in 2011. His disciples and family keep the creative standard high in this attractive restaurant in the Montseny with an indulgent boutique hotel attached.
Sitges
The temptation to eat a paella overlooking the sea is irresistible, and there are several places along the seafront to choose from. You’ll be able to find more unusual options in the narrow streets leading up to the centre.
Al Fresco
Pau Barrabeig, 4
Tel: 93-894 0600
Open: July–early Sept daily D. Rest of year, check website. €€€
Excellent fusion between Mediterranean and the Far East results in delicious flavours in this very attractive whitewashed restaurant and pretty courtyard.
La Santa Maria
Passeig de la Ribera, 52
Tel: 93-894 0999
www.lasantamaria.com/restaurant
Open: Daily L & D. Closed mid-Dec–Feb. €€
La Santa Maria is a traditional hotel restaurant where large families meet for Sunday lunch. Be sure to wait for a table on the terrace overlooking the main promenade – it’s a good spot for paella.
Vilanova i la Geltrú
La Fitorra
Hotel César, Isaac Peral, 4–8
Tel: 93-815 1125
Open: Tue–Sat L & D, Sun L. Daily in mid-summer. €€
Delicious Mediterranean food at a reasonable price, with immaculate and friendly service in this delightful hotel with a personal touch. The lunchtime buffet can be eaten in the shady garden, bursting with hibiscus flowers. Many options for vegetarians.
Vic
Ca L’U
Riera, 25
Tel: 93-889 0345
Open: Thu–Sat L & D, Sun, Tue, Wed L. €€€
In the extremely elegant surroundings of an 18th-century town house just off the magnificent Plaça Major of this market town you can eat fine local fare, mostly produce from the rich plains of Vic.