WHERE TO START?

Barcelona doesn’t have that one famous shopping street as other cities do. Exclusive boutiques can be found mainly along the Rambla de Catalunya Street Atlas [128 B5–6; 134 B1] (above Plaça de Catalunya!) and Passeig de Gràcia Street Atlas [128 C5–6; 134 C1–2]. Trendy shops and fashion chain stores have set up at Porta de l’Àngel Street Atlas [123 D2–3] and in the Portaferrissa alley Street Atlas [122 C3], while Carrer Girona Street Atlas [123 F1–2] has become an inner-city outlet street.

‘I shop, therefore I am’: it’s no coincidence that a famous design department store in Barcelona chose this ironically adapted aphorism as its advertising slogan.

The Catalans have always been keen on making their identity shine in the most impressive way – as illustrated by many exclusive shops, especially in the upper part of the city, whether in splendid Art Nouveau or upmarket post-modern understatement. In the Old Town you’ll also find small corner shops, long-established general stores, kitsch, crafts or junk – often in tiny spaces where time seems to have stood still.

Recently more and more trendy shops and hip fashion boutiques have opened up in Raval, around Carrer Avinyó or in the Santa Caterina quarter. In the Ribera quarter delightful shops for crafts, designer clothes and delicatessen cluster around Passeig del Born and the Rec alleyway. But note: many shops in the Ribera quarter stay closed on a Monday! If you prefer multicultural or little alternative shops and organic boheme, head for the Gràcia quarter.

While shopping in Barcelona is great fun, it’s not exactly cheap. According to statistics, prices here are above those of London or New York. Forget fans and flamenco dancers – here you are in a European bastion of design, fashion and crafts. Look out when purchasing crafts, so you don’t end up with ‘typical Catalan’ goods made in Hong Kong. The information points of the tourist office have a list of recommended shops. Barcelona’s museum shops are a good source for gift ideas.

Usual opening hours are Monday to Friday between 10am and 2.30pm and again from 4.30 to 8pm. The major shopping centres and department stores are usually open till 10pm, often Saturday too.

MARCO POLO HIGHLIGHTS

	Old Town »
	Browse in Barcelona’s most interesting antique shops
	Casa Gisbert »
	Traditional general store like in great-grandmother’s time
	Fargas »
	Sweet temptation
	Mercat de Sant Josep/La Boqueria »
	Sensual shopping experience between modernisme and seafood
	Vinçon »
	Encounter a design department store of the third kind
	Art Escudellers »
	Catalan crafts: from tiles to ceramics
	La Manual Alpargatera »
	Made-to-measure shoes: walk on traditional soles
	Textile route »
	Modern designs within medieval walls

ANTIQUES

Barcelona is a mecca for (solvent) lovers of Catalan Art Nouveau. A tip for less well-endowed travellers: take a look at the shops around the Encants Nous flea market; don’t be put off by their occasional shabbiness.

OLD TOWN

You’ll find atmospheric antique dealers for looking and browsing in the medieval alleys of the former Jewish quarter of El Call. The most interesting shops here are in the Carrer de la Palla and in the Carrer dels Banys Nous alley.

BOOKS & MUSIC

If you’re looking for art books, coffee-table books or exhibition catalogues: the museum bookshops stock offer an excellent selection, especially in those of the Miró Foundation, the Picasso Museum or the Centre for Contemporary Culture.

LA CENTRAL DEL RAVAL

This Baroque chapel shelters one of the largest and best-stocked bookshops in Europe. Elisabets, 6 | www.lacentral.com | Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3)

DISCOS CASTELLÓ

This long-established record shop is a must for music fans: whether new releases, cult or rarities – you’ll be well looked-after. Second-hand vinyl and CDs from 3 euros. Tallers, 7 | www.castellodiscos.com | Metro: Plaça Catalunya (L1, L3)

DELICATESSEN, SPECIALITIES & MARKETS

CACAO SAMPAKA

Pure cocoa culture, without additives: chocolate in surprising creations and aromas. Café Mon–Sat 9am–8.30pm | Consell de Cent, 292 | www.cacaosampaka.com | Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4)

Divine delicacies, made in Spanish monasteries and convents: pastries, marzipan, honey, wine, liqueurs. Try teas and Mass wines by candlelight and early music in the restored 14th-century cellar. Shop Mon–Thu 10.30am–8.30pm, Fri and Sat 11am–11.30pm, Sun 11.30am–8.30pm, cellar vaults Tue–Thu 3.30–8.30pm, Fri and Sat 3.30–11pm | www.caelumbarcelona.com | Carrer de la Palla, 8 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

CASA GISBERT

Enchanting general store, over 150 years old, in the Ribera quarter. The oven where prunes and apricots are dried has been functioning since 1851 and is unique in all of Spain. Closed Sun and Mon | Sombrerers, 23 | www.cangisbert.com | Metro: Jaume I (L4)

FARGAS

Nobody, but nobody can resist the freshly prepared chocolate. The decor too is of excellent taste: this pretty Art Nouveau shop opened in 1827, when it was the first xocolateria in town. Carrer del Pi, 16 | Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3)

HERBOLARI DEL REI

Well worth a visit, this shop opened in 1818 selling spices and Mediterranean herbs. Vidre, 1 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

Tapas, sausage, wine: Catalan delicatessen products are for sale in this charming old general store where you can try the goods at the tasting tables. Mon–Sat 9am–3pm and 6–9.30pm, Sun 11am–3pm | Pi, 16 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

MERCAT DE SANT JOSEP/LA BOQUERIA

PASTELERÍA ESCRIBÀ

A historic Art Nouveau patisserie with a richly ornate façade, one of the best places in Barcelona for those who love chocolate and all things sweet. Rambla, 83 | www.escriba.es | Metro: Liceu (L3)

QUEVIURES MURRIA

This beautiful Art Nouveau-style general store, founded in 1898, sells fine foods such as cheese, ham, caviar, oils and chocolate. Home-produced cava. Roger de Llùria, 85 | www.murria.cat | Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4)

VILA VINITECA

Alongside top wines from the Priorat or cult vintages such as Vega Sicilia, there are 4000 other wines. Plus a rich selection of sherry, vermouth and rarities. Agullers, 7 | Metro: Jaume I (L4)

DESIGN & CRAFTS

ALMACÉN MARABI

This original workshop sells crafts made from fabric, brooches or key rings. Flassaders, 30 | Metro: Jaume I (L4)

ART ESCUDELLERS

Come here to find authentic crafts, whether traditional or contemporary, for realistic prices. Alongside beautiful tiles, there are ceramics and glass pieces, as well as original jewellery. Escudellers, 12 and Escudellers, 23–25 (opposite) | www.escudellers-art.com | Metro: Drassanes (L3)

Lovely candle store where time seems to have stood still since 1761. Closed Sat afternoon | Baixada de la Llibreteria, 7 | Metro: Jaume I (L4)

D BARCELONA

A good place for accessories and decorative items, fun presents and out-of-the-ordinary objects. Diagonal, 367 | Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5)

DOS I UNA

Creative gifts, curiosities and kitsch from Catalunya. Rosselló, 275 | Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5)

TEXTILE ROUTE

For a long time the historic workmen’s houses and weaver’s workshops of the Ribera quarter stood empty. In the past years the buildings have been taken over and revived by young designers. Especially around the streets of Banys Vells, Esquirol Flassaders and Barra de Ferro, you’ll find very interesting shops, textile workshops and trendy fashion studios. For sustenance, there are plenty of atmospheric cafés and bars. Just one thing: most shops are closed on Mondays. Metro: Jaume I (L4)

VINÇON

This was once one of the pioneering design shops in town, and it is still worth a visit. Also worth seeing is the furniture department: these rooms were once inhabited by the Art Nouveau painter Santiago Rusiñol. Passeig de Gràcia, 96 | www.vincon.com | Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5)

GALLERIES

Established galleries cluster in the streets of Consell de Cent/Rambla de Catalunya Street Atlas [134 B1]: e. g. Carles Taché (Consell de Cent, 290) or Prats (Rambla de Catalunya, 54), representing important Spanish and Catalan artists. New galleries have sprung up in Raval, around the Museum of Contemporary Art and in Gràcia, in most recent times also in the Poble Nou quarter or around Santa Caterina market.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES

CUSTO

In-your-face prints and material mix: the innovative tops und t-shirts by Custo are now available in more than 50 countries, and it all started in the late 1990s in this shop in the Old Town. Plaça de les Olles, 7 | www.custo-barcelona.com | Metro: Jaume I (L4)

DESIGUAL

Garish patchwork clothing for ladies, gentlemen and children – with the craziest combinations of fabric and colours! You can save up to 50 per cent at this outlet – nobody will notice if you are wearing last year’s model, as the popular Spanish label has remained true to its out-there style for over 25 years. Diputación, 323 | www.desigual.com | Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3) or Girona (L4)

EL MERCADILLO

A super-trendy fashion bazaar for young people extending over several storeys. A crazy hair-dresser and a café with a lovely patio are part of the operation. Portaferrissa, 1 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

GUANTERÍA PEDRO ALONSO

In this Art Nouveau shop you’ll find gloves for nearly every occasion, as well as fans. Santa Anna, 27 | Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3)

LA CUBANA

Old-fashioned in the best sense of the world: selling lace, gloves and silk scarves, as well as hand-painted fans (mantillas) – this place has been a local legend since 1824. Boqueria, 26 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

RIERA BAIXA

This small street, which at first glance might appear a bit shabby, is extremely hip: there are many second-hand shops, tattoo and piercing parlours as well as shops for vintage clothing. Riera Baixa | Metro: Liceu (L3)

SOMBRERERÍA OBACH

Traditional hattery in a picturesque corner shop. The lore of which hat fits which kind of head has been passed on here for generations. Call, 2 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

SHOES

CAMPER

While the eminently wearable shoes are now famous the world over, they are still a lot cheaper in Spain than elsewhere. El Triangle | Street Atlas [123 D2] Plaça Catalunya | Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3) | Street Atlas [128 C6] València, 249 | Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4)

CASAS

Whether sporty, classically chic or ultramodern – this Catalan company has the fitting shoe for nearly every foot, from their own models to brands such as Vialis, Café Noir, Camper, Moschino, Marc Jacob or Miss Sixty. You can save up to half on the retail price in the outlet near the Metro station Lesseps – shoe fans on their way to Parc Güell simply get off one station earlier. Outlet Mon–Sat 10am–2pm and 5–8.30pm | Gran de Gràcia, 239 | for a list of branches see www.ucasas.com | Metro: Lesseps (L3)

LA MANUAL ALPARGATERA

The popular espardenyes, linen shoes on raffia soles, have been made to measure in this down-to-earth family concern for many generations: whether for drop-in customers or for VIP feet such as those of Hollywood actor Michael Douglas. Avinyó, 7 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

LOW BUDGET

The outlet of the world-famous Catalan fashion chain Mango allows you to put together an entire new outfit for little money. Carrer Girona, 37 | Street Atlas [133 D 2] | www.mangoshop.com | Metro: Urquinaona (L1, L4)

The prices of the Bon Area food cooperative can hardly be undercut. Sausage and meat, patés, ham, cheese, dairy products and fruit from the agricultural province of Lleida are fresher and cheaper than in any supermarket. For the addresses of nearly 50 branches in Barcelona, see www.cag.es/.

Muy Mucho offers a large selection of trendy styled presents and decoration items, and no-one would guess how little they actually cost. Small pretty items start at 2–3 euros. Rambla de Catalunya, 35 | Street Atlas [134 B 1] | Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L3, L4)

Photo: Shop window in the Old Town

HIGHLIGHTS | ANTIQUES | BOOKS & MUSIC | DELICATESSEN, SPECIALITIES & MARKETS | DESIGN & CRAFTS | GALLERIES | FASHION & ACCESSORIES | SHOES