WHERE TO START?

There is no particular nightlife neighbourhood – the night owls spread out. In the Old Town you’ll meet the cool city bohemians and young people. In Raval a new café and bar scene has sprung up, the outlandish avant-garde rubbing shoulders with cosy taverns. Enormously in is the Ribera quarter, with cocktail bars, trendy eateries and industrial lofts converted into hip bars, especially around the Passeig del Born and Mercat del Born. Some of the coolest clubs and lounges are by the beach between Barceloneta and Vila Olímpica.

Whether your tastes run to elegant or rustic, eccentric or cosy, vintage, chintzy or post-modern: Barcelona’s night life offers something for everybody.

The Santa Caterina neighbourhood is seeing the birth of a new scene with trendy places to meet and chillout bars, especially around the market hall and the atmospheric

Plaça D’Allada-Vermell. The Gràcia quarter has an alternative vibe, with countless small pubs, tapas bars and some very good-value restaurants. In summer many squares turn into busy café terraces and open-air stages for musicians, street artists or jugglers. Between the long-established bars and small cafés in Poble Sec a number of cult bars have set up shop off the beaten tourist track – particularly around the streets Blai and Blesa. The Zona Alta (Upper Town) around Diagonal, Mariano Cubí and Tibidabo is the stomping ground of the fashion and career-conscious. Some design bars in Eixample are now a bit passé. In summer, many hotels open their a

roof terraces as bars and lounges. The terraces of the fancy Casa Fuster hotel, the Majestic or H 1898 are particularly beautiful. From the terraces of the hip W Hotel or the elegant Arts Barcelona hotel – closer to the ground, but still very nice – you have a fantastic view of the sea. One word of warning: be on your guard in the Old Town: leave your valuables at home and take a taxi!

MARCO POLO HIGHLIGHTS

	Boadas »
	In Hemingway’s footsteps: Barcelona’s legendary cocktail bar
	Jamboree »
	Best jazz cellar in town
	Sala Apolo/Nitsa Club »
	Trendy club in a former ballroom
	Gran Teatre del Liceu »
	More than just an opera house: a symbol of Catalan culture
	Palau de la Música Catalana »
	Splendid concert hall in Art Nouveau style

BARS & LOUNGES

BOADAS

This legendary cocktail bar is the oldest in Barcelona and still a legend; Ernest Hemingway, no less, drank his mojito here. Mon–Sat 12 noon–2am | Tallers, 1 | Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3)

Hairdressers’ drying hoods turned into lamps and traffic lights on the wall are not the only curiosities in this cult Poble Sec bar. Or do you normally drink your beer sitting in a bath tub? Closed Sun and Mon | Piquer, 27 | Metro: Parallel (L3)

CANIGÓ

For those who have seen enough super-styled lounges in Barcelona and would like to know what a Catalan pub looks like, this is the right place. In the evenings, this traditional bar in the Gràcia neighbourhood is often jam-packed and noisy, even without piped music. Thu 5pm–2.30am, Fri 5pm–3am, Sat 8pm–3am | Verdi, 2 | Metro: Fontana (L3))

CASA ALMIRALL

Marble counter, modernist lamps and Art Nouveau décor: a classic Barcelona bar that has been around since 1860. The retro bar is very popular with young people too. Daily from 7pm | Joaquín Costa, 33 | Metro: Universitat (L1, L2)

CDLC (CARPE DIEM LOUNGE CLUB)

The cool beach terrace with a view of the Mediterranean offers relaxing Balinese loungers. Inside, a huge club with VIP lounges, dance floors and DJ sessions. Daily 12 noon–2am | Passeig Marítim, 32 | tel. 9 32 24 04 70 | Metro: Ciutadella (L4)

CHATELET

This could be the living room of a cutting-edge designer and flea market freak: one of the most popular bars in Gràcia. Cocktails ordered before 10pm only cost 4 euros. Daily 6pm–2.30am | Torrijos, 54 | Metro: Fontana (L3)

DRY MARTINI

Named after the favourite drink of Spanish director Luis Buñuel: a must for cocktail fans. Delicious little snacks are served with the drinks. Daily from 6.30pm | Aribau, 162 | Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5)

GIMLET

A classic choice for bohemians with a bit of money and nonconformist night owls with a penchant for a proper drink. Mon–Sat from 8pm | Rec, 24 | Metro: Jaume I (L4)

LONDON BAR

If the thick cigarette fug should lift, you’ll be able to make out the crumbling charm of a bohemian bar that has been popular since 1910. Tue–Sun from 7pm | Nou de la Rambla, 34 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

LUPARA

Small but perfectly formed trendy bar with terrace in the new entertainment district around the Santa Caterina market hall. This is where Barcelona’s bohemians enjoy a well-poured drink with tasty sausage and cheese tapas. Sun–Thu 12 noon–12 midnight, Fri and Sat 12 noon–3am | Plaça de Santa Caterina, 2 | Metro: Jaume I (L4)

MARGARITA BLUE

Curious pub and Tex-Mex restaurant, often packed to the doors. DJs, drinks and cocktails. Daily from 7pm | Josep Anselm Clavé, 6 | Metro: Drassanes (L3)

MIRABÉ

Aperitifs and long drinks – and a

breathtaking view across the whole of Barcelona. In the summer there’s a garden terrace. Tue–Sun 7pm–2am | Manuel Arnús, 2 | FGC: Tibidabo, change to Tramvía Blau or bus no. 196

This original cosy trendy bar with views of Plaça Reial is located in the pipe smokers’ private club. Don’t forget you have to ring the doorbell of the house! Daily 11pm–1.30am | Plaça Reial, 3, pral. | Metro: Liceu (L3)

PITÍN BAR

Small, intimate and originally designed bar at the heart of the Ribera neighbourhood. Popular terrace. Tue–Fri from 10am, Sat, Sun from 11am | Pg. Del Born, 34 | Metro: Jaume I (L4)

RESOLIS

This long-established bar in Raval is one of the few trendy bars that still show their modernisme origins. Basic, rustic and easy-going. Delicious snacks prepare the stomach for a longer tour on the tiles. Sun–Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat 5pm–2am | Carrer Riera Baixa, 22 | Metro: Sant Antoni (L2)

SÓ-LÓ BAR

No trace of the current drinks brands, screens or other trendy staples: instead the most outlandish types of rum, with over 60 bottles occupying the shelf of this spacious trendy bar in Poble Sec. Up to 11pm all cocktails cost 4 euros. Closed Sun | Margarit, 18 | Metro: Parallel (L3)

SUBORN

Relaxed hipster spot in a modern loft in the in-quarter of Born: the restaurant (Tue–Sun 8pm–midnight) serves Mediterranean dishes. With club, dance floor and terrace. Thu–Sat from midnight | Ribera, 18 | tel. 9 33 10 11 10 | Metro: Barceloneta (L4)

Original cocktail bar, known for its excellent gin & tonic. More than 30 gin brands await you behind a marble counter that’s over 100 years old. Closed Sun | Rocafort, 19 | Metro: Poble Sec (L3)

DISCOS, CLUBS & LIVE MUSIC

The action really only starts after midnight. Mostly at weekends, many clubs offer live music too, or live clubs will function as clubs outside performance times. Live performances start earlier, usually from 9 or 10pm.

ANTILLA BARCELONA

One of the leading salsa clubs, where immigrants from the Caribbean dance their homesickness away. Tue–Sun from 11pm | Aragó, 141 | www.antillasalsa.com | Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5)

BIKINI

From pop to electronic dance – this popular club will play it all. Salsa dance room, cocktail bar, concerts. Wed–Sat from midnight | Déu i Mata, 105 | www.bikinibcn.com | Metro: Les Corts (L3)

CITY HALL

Electronic music and techno in a theatre backdrop from times past, put on by top DJs from Spain and abroad, and a pretty terrace in the summer. One of the most popular clubs in the city centre. Daily from midnight | Rambla de Catalunya, 4 | www.ottozutz.es | Metro: Plaça Catalunya (L1, L3)

JAMBOREE

This jazz cellar has been a meeting point for connoisseurs since 1959. Performances by international guests, dance floor. Daily live music 9 and 11pm, disco from 1am | Plaça Reial, 17 | www.masimas.com | Metro: Liceu (L3)

Hidden in a Raval alley: popular bar with live performances by young musicians. Drinks at very reasonable prices. Jazz, flamenco, jam sessions. Daily, varying opening times | Requesens, 2 | tel. 9 33 29 00 20 | www.tallerdemusics.com | Metro: Sant Antoni (L2)

LUZ DE GAS

Popular disco and music hall with wonderfully decadent Belle Époque kitsch. Interesting live programmes, especially during the jazz festival (Oct–Dec). Daily from 11.30pm | Muntaner, 246 | tel. 9 32 09 73 85 | www.luzdegas.com | Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5)

MARULA CAFÉ

Black music, soul, funk, Latin jazz, disco, also for more mature clubbers. Daily from 11pm | Escudellers, 49 | Metro: Drassanes (L3)

MOOG

Excellent music programme with well-known DJs. For lovers of techno and house. Daily from midnight | Arc del Teatre, 3 | www.masimas.com | Metro: Liceu (L3)

OPIUM

Exclusive club in a former cinema. Three spacious bars, a small dance floor, film showings. Very popular with the fashion-conscious crowd. Tue–Sun from 11.30pm | Paris, 193–197 | Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5)

OTTO ZUTZ CLUB

This industrial-look club spanning three floors has been a hit for over 20 years. DJ sessions, electronic and Black music. Things only get going for real around 2am. Wed–Sat from midnight | Lincoln, 15 | www.ottozutz.com | FGC: Gràcia, Metro: Fontana (L3)

23 ROBADOR

Graffiti on the stone walls, a whiff of underground. On Wednesdays there’s jazz, on Sundays flamenco, at other times DJs spin their stuff. Ring the doorbell of the house to get in! Closed Mon | Robador, 23 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

SALA APOLO/NITSA CLUB

An elegant former ballroom, today one of the hippest places in town – with live music, disco, DJs, dance parties, underground films and every Wednesday evening the hip

rumba night. At the weekend, Sala Apolo turns into the Nitsa Club, playing current musical trends in various rooms. Sala Apolo daily, Nitsa Club Fri and Sat from 12.30am | Nou de la Rambla, 113 | www.sala-apolo.com | Metro: Parallel (L3)

SHOKO

Lounge club and restaurant with sea view. One of the most sought-after beach terraces in town, playing 1980s music, funk and house. International DJs. Daily from midnight | Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta, 36 | Metro: Ciutadella (L4)

FLAMENCO SHOWS

TABLAO DE CARMEN

Where the Tablao de Carmen stands today, the legendary flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya debuted for the opening of the World Exhibition in 1929. Authentic flamenco and a programme for the discerning. In the Poble Espanyol museum village. Tue–Sun approx. 8pm–2am, flamenco shows Tue–Sun 7.45 and 10pm | 34 euros incl. drink and admission to Poble Espanyol | www.tablaodecarmen.com | Metro: Espanya (L1, L3), onwards on foot or by bus: Poble Espanyol (61, 13)

TARANTOS

Many great names of flamenco have performed here, from Antonio Gades to Duquende. Tue–Sat from 9.30pm, live flamenco at 9.30, 10.30pm, later disco and Musica Latina | admission flamenco bar 5 euros | Plaça Reial, 17 | Metro: Liceu (L3)

CONCERT HALLS & OPERA

AUDITORI DE BARCELONA (AUDITORIUM)

Designed by Rafael Moneo and inaugurated in 1999, the building next to the national theatre is the modern heart of concert life. International top stars perform in the auditorium, and the symphony orchestra is also based here. Lepant, 150 | tel. 9 32 47 93 00 | www.auditori.com | Metro: Monumental (L2), Glòries (L1)

GRAN TEATRE DEL LICEU

When the historic theatre on the Rambla burnt down in 1994, the flames not only destroyed one of Europe’s most beautiful opera houses: the Liceu most of all symbolised the Catalans’ self-confidence and culture, as a counterpoint to Madrid. While the auditorium has risen again in its old splendour, the stage is now amongst the world’s most modern. Artistically too, this temple to the muses has been dusted down, with contemporary works and modern director’s theatre alongside the traditional repertoire. Rambla, 51–59 | tel. 9 34 85 99 13 | www.liceubarcelona.com | Metro: Liceu (L3)

PALAU DE LA MÚSICA CATALANA

While all the Art Nouveau splendour in this concert hall makes it difficult to concentrate on the music, the programme merits undivided attention. Every year, over 200 concerts take place here, including international star performances – from classical via jazz to chanson or world music. Sant Pere Més Alt | tel. 9 32 95 72 00 | www.palaumusica.org | Metro: Urquinaona (L1, L4)

THEATRE

Barcelona has long since established itself internationally as a forum for new and discerning forms of theatre. Spain’s most important independent ensembles are at home here: the Lliure theatre, troupes such as Els Joglars or La Fura dels Baus. Many theatres put on performances in the Catalan language. Most international performances can be caught at the Mercat de les Flors and during the Grec arts festival every July and August.

MERCAT DE LES FLORS

Contemporary theatre and dance of international calibre. In the former flower market guest performers from all over the world alternate with performances by local artists. Also worth seeing is the dome above the entrance hall. Here, you’ll see one of Miquel Barceló’s most beautiful paintings. Around the Mercat a huge theatre complex has sprung up, including the renowned Teatre Lliure (Teatre Fabià Puigserver) in the imposing Palau de la Agricultura and the Theatre Institute. Lleida, 59 | tel. 9 34 26 18 75 | Metro: Plaça Espanya (L1, L3)

LOW BUDGET

This is how you’d imagine a cosy tavern in the port area: at Can Paixano (Mon–Sat 9am–10.30pm | Street Atlas [134 C5] | Reina Cristina, 7 | www.canpaixano.com | Metro: Barceloneta (L4), hams hang from the ceiling beams and the walls are decoratively yellowed. Drinks are taken standing up, there are no chairs. House cava at rock-bottom prices of 0.80–1.20 euros per glass.

You’ll be glad to hear that there’s a way to party away in the hippest clubs in town, such as the Shoko – for free! All you have to do is get onto the right guest list: one of the most popular is Shaz’s guest list under www.barcelonaparties.com. Watch out though: the invites are only valid for that specific time – latecomers have to pay, up to 20 euros. So get in line in good time, as long queues will form.

Photo: Salsa club

HIGHLIGHTS | BARS & LOUNGES | DISCOS, CLUBS & LIVE MUSIC | FLAMENCO SHOWS | CONCERT HALLS & OPERA | THEATRE