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The loneliest road in America ran straight through the middle of Taylor, Nevada. There was a sign to prove it. It stood by the side of the highway, the only thing over three feet high in an endless alkali flat scattered with cheat grass, sagebrush, jackrabbits, and rattlesnakes. Highway 50. The loneliest road in America. A string of dusty towns, some no more than a cottonwood and a hopeful gas pump, greeted you every fifty miles or so as you crossed the state. Between, the highway arced over pinyon-studded passes and raced through wide, gray valleys, moving in economically straight lines through a vast quiet. It was a road in a hurry to be someplace.

In the years before Gram died, we traveled Highway 50 once a summer with Aunt Anna. Aunt Anna would stuff us into the back seat of her Buick and head out at seventy mph, never speaking except to announce stops for gas, one eye on the road, one on the radio dial she twirled in an endless search through the static. We went east three times that I can remember, traveling to Salt Lake to see my aunts when they had babies. We traveled west more often. Some of my uncles lived in Reno. It was the more desirable destination. Gram loved to gamble in the big casinos, feeding silver dollars from her black purse into the slots with unflagging hopefulness. She was a cheerful loser, but a grim winner. She scooped her small jackpots into her purse and plowed towards the street.

I no dummy, mygolly. I quit when I head.

Leaving downtown Reno, she had Aunt Anna park on one of the bridges over the Truckee River. We’d stay for an hour or more while she sat in the middle of the back seat, arms crossed over her heavy purse, eyes darting to catch a glimpse of some movie star casting her wedding ring into the rushing water below.

You betcha my life, we see movie star today!

She was more successful as a gambler than as a sightseer.

Once at either of my uncles’ houses, she established herself in the kitchen, taking over all the cooking while we were there. Between meals she poked through my uncles’ vegetable gardens, shaking her head and muttering encouragement to the plants. On our long drive back to Taylor, she was antsy to be home again.

I never leave my little town again. I stay my little town. Everybody come me.

Traveling the desolate road home, I pointed out sights to distract her. There were four things to see along Highway 50 as it crossed the four hundred-mile width of Nevada. The first was her favorite, Sand Mountain. When it was miles behind us, she was still shaking with laughter and wiping tears from her cheeks. Sand Mountain was truly remarkable to see, but that wasn’t why she loved it. She loved it because of the story, because it reminded her of my dad. She’d always look the other way, letting me be the first to point it out.

Look, Gram, I’d cue her. Sand Mountain!

Off to the left, a mountain of pure white sand reared into view, a mirage above the empty valley floor. A geological wonder, Sand Mountain rose nearly two thousand feet, every shimmering grain gathered by the wind from the beaches of a vanished sea. Travelers racing to and from California were drawn against their will to the side of the road, where they stood bare-headed and unbelieving in the midday sun.

My sonny boy, he say that mountain way over there in 1930.

Gram would point way off to the right of the road, beginning our beloved litany. It was a tall tale, full of reckless adventure and giant whoppers like a mountain of sand moving thirty miles. It was the closest we could get to my father. He had passed this way, in a Model A pickup, on his way to a Golden Gloves tournament in Reno. Eight teenagers filled the back of the truck. The coach drove. They ran up the passes and waited for the pickup to catch up, then barreled down the other side. My dad was the youngest, just thirteen. He had lied about Gram’s permission and slipped away at night. He won his weight class, fighting against men twice his age. The coach gambled and lost every cent of his winner’s purse. On the ride home, they stole green melons from a farmer’s field to eat and were sicker than dogs. But Dad was flying. He was the undisputed king of clout. Right until the moment he stepped onto his own front porch. There was Gram with her old black frying pan and a clear suspicion of where he had been for the last three days. Dad grinned and shrugged. That wasn’t why she hit him over the head. It was the nose. Along with the trophy and a set of tiny golden gloves to dangle from a key chain for a car that he never bought in his short life, Dad came home with a new nose, nearly flat and with a decided leftward leaning. For Gram, it was the last straw.

Jesus, Ma. Why ya hitting me? Ya coulda killed me. Aren’t ya proud of your son? my dad asked as he picked himself off the front porch and rubbed his head. Gram shook the skillet in front of Dad’s mangled face.

My son!? My son, he best nose whole family! Now look! You not so tough guy, buddy boy. You go shovel me coal.

Remembering Dad’s short-lived title, Gram would shake her head and chuckle and wrap her arms around herself, holding the memory close to her heart, as if it were a young boy, battered, jubilant, and home at last.

Eventually, the open scenery would work on us. Gram would quiet as other memories collected her. Towards the middle of the state the ruins of a granite castle appeared to the right of the road, hunched on a high cliff overlooking the barren plain. Stokes Castle was angular and hollow, blue sky leaking through its bereaved windows. To Gram it was a giant grave marker, testament to the boom and bust of a long ago schemer, a miner and railroad man whose fortunes dried up when the gold played out. She would cross herself and then, nodding, make the motion of a small circle in the air in front of her.

Holy Wheel turn slowly, Mala. Better start at bottom, go just little bit up. Not so good have too much. Not so good be big shot at top.

Not far from the castle, too close if you wanted to savor your visual excitement, was a tiny, high valley, the third sight. Rich with hidden water, the little valley was a respite of green ringed with shivering aspens. Sometimes, waist-deep in waving reeds, deer or wild mustangs might raise their heads and acknowledge our passing.

Wish Taylor like this, Gram would murmur.

Long after the valley was lost behind us, we remembered the green. Then more sagebrush, more rocks, more dirt, another forlorn town or two, and, finally, on the loneliest part of the loneliest road in America, man-made piles of spent earth rose to block out the surrounding hills and told us we were nearly home. The huge tailings belonged to the Copper King open pit mine, one of the biggest in the world. This was the fourth sight along Highway 50, the reason for Parker’s existence and our town’s, too. The copper pit stood at the far edge of Parker. Highway 50 cut through the tailings piles on its way into town. Every day as the pit widened and deepened a little bit, the anemic tailings inched in on Parker a little more. We were vastly proud of the pit. Every old miner on every barstool in the county hooked a thumb in the direction of it and proclaimed, I DUG THAT HOLE. Standing on the edge of the enormous hole and looking down, it was hard to believe that anything human could have made it. But there they were, down in the bottom, men almost too small to see moving giant equipment too small for a child’s hand. Ore cars circled slowly for more than an hour to reach the lip of the pit.

One day, break through, go down China, Gram would say.

I told her it was more likely the Indian Ocean.

Better! Then we have some pretty damn big lake. Then you see my garden!

She grinned at the thought. The highway followed the ore cars that left the pit and passed through Parker. Gram and I always checked the whorehouses at the end of town to see if we recognized any cars. Once past Parker, both the train tracks and the highway cut a straight line across the flat, dusty valley. Over the last thirty miles the limestone cliffs in front of us grew from bumps to mountains. These were my mother’s cliffs, where she had tested the theory of flight. But that was a story that was never told, never whispered, ignored, a stranger’s story. We moved on.

Where the cliff cast the longest shadow lay Taylor: a smokestack and a copper smelter, a ballpark, three churches, three shops, a garage, two bars, a barber shop, a bank, a post office, Mrs. Miniverri’s In-home Diner, ten streets of picket fences, company houses, cottonwoods, and 1,822 people. Highway 50, The loneliest road in America, cut the town in half. Above Main lived the company managers, the businessmen and their wives, those Mormon mothers with their pale, blue-eyed children. Below Main were our people. We were home.

With its back against the cliffs, Taylor was hemmed in on the east by a cinder pile that threatened to engulf the Mormon Church. On the west a slag ditch rushed evil-looking, black muck down the tilting land from the smelter that crouched at the top of the town in the deep shadow of the cliffs. Below the town, the slag spread out and dried on a wide, acrid wasteland that we called The Sands. The name had an Arabian Nights air to it, romantic. We cherished little ironies. The Sands were home to tiny white scorpions and a particularly irritable species of rattler. Both were deadly. Taylor’s sewer ran into the open slag ditch and out on to The Sands. Uncle Sam said Taylor was the only place in America where you flushed it down your toilet in the morning and it blew back in your face in the afternoon. Sixth Street, where Gram and I lived (and Aunt Anna two doors down) was on the edge of The Sands. Most afternoons at about 2:00 the wind picked up in the northwest and a wall of dust swept across The Sands and moved in on the town. We watched it rolling toward our back fence. All over Taylor, laundry was snapped in. Children and pets scattered. Windows slammed shut. It was a good time to be at a friend’s for a game of checkers, for a young wife to catch up on ironing, for old widows to share a cup of tea and a quiet gossip. It was a good time for a man to be at the Taylor Club with a foot on the rail and a whiskey in hand. It was a good time for stories. Each story shone. They massed into a mountain that shimmered, lighting our landscape.

In Taylor, days were the same, portioned by the smelter whistle at six, two, and ten, weighed in loaves of bread and glasses of whiskey, measured in deaths and stories. Time was unseen wind, rushing across plains, sharp and relentless, gathering debris and moving on.

By the summer that Gram died Taylor was drying up. Our last trips out of town to Salt Lake or Reno brought Gram, Aunt Anna, and me back to a town that was becoming the pallid leavings of what it had been. By 1950, most of the men and women who had been lucky enough to return from the war were moving away from Taylor. They had seen a world beyond the ten streets, the dust, the pit. The GI Bill opened a door they had never considered. The sons and daughters of immigrants were going to college. Added to this, another war had started. Taylor’s mothers sent a second set of sons armed only with a confident swagger off to Korea. Who would be left, the circle of aging widow women wondered and watched with equal parts pride and sorrow as their sons and daughters left. My Aunt Anna knew. Bone stubborn, and insistent of one single truth, she knew Sixth Street, Taylor, Nevada, the street where she was born, where she bore her young, was the center of the universe. Roots and stories went as deep as the cottonwoods that shaded our sidewalks. It was meaning at the center of the mirage, a belonging passed down from Gram and the women of Taylor to everyone who once walked there.

Stay! Anna ordered.

It was hard not to listen to Anna. She was in charge. Only Gram could contradict her.