Devil’s Food Cake (My Favorite Birthday Cake)

Once upon a time, I took a six-month job as a baker on an island. The day I turned nineteen, I was given the task of making a devil’s food cake frosted with thin layers of super-sweet American vanilla buttercream and covered in lots of coconut—which just so happens to be my favorite birthday cake. As I worked, I marveled at the coincidence, thinking, “This person and I have the same taste in cake.” Turns out my parents wanted to surprise me with a cake for my birthday, but since I had arrived just a few days before, no one knew who I was, and the order was assigned to me!

Makes one 9-inch 2-layer cake

Difficulty: Easy

Make Ahead and Storage: The cake layers can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored, tightly wrapped, at room temperature. The buttercream can be made ahead and stored airtight in the refrigerator for up to 1 week (see sidebar for how to reconstitute before using). The frosted cake can be refrigerated airtight for up to 2 days.

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F / 175°C, with a rack in the middle. Grease and flour two 9-inch round cake pans.

2. Make the cakes: Place the cocoa powder in a medium heatproof bowl. Whisk in the boiling water until fully combined. Stir in the milk and set aside.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl, using a hand mixer), cream the butter and granulated sugar on medium-low speed until light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing until each is fully incorporated before adding the next. Scrape the bowl well. Add the vanilla and mix to combine.

4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add one third of the mixture to the butter mixture and mix on low speed to combine. Add half the cocoa-and-milk mixture and mix to incorporate. Repeat, alternating between the dry and wet ingredients, until both are fully incorporated and the batter is smooth.

5. Divide the batter between the prepared pans (about 652 g per pan). Bake the cakes until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Cool the cakes in the pans for 10 to 15 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely.

6. Make the buttercream: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl, using a hand mixer), cream the butter and powdered sugar on medium-low speed until light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla and cream and mix until thoroughly combined, about 1 minute.

7. Assemble the cake: Use a serrated knife to level the top of each cake (see Cutting Cakes Into Layers). Place one layer on a turn-table or cake stand (or a platter). Scoop a heaping ¾ cup of the frosting onto the layer and use an offset spatula to spread the frosting evenly over it. Top with the other cake layer, flat side up. Apply a crumb coat of frosting (see Frosting Techniques) to the top and sides of the cake and refrigerate to set, 15 to 30 minutes.

8. Frost the sides and top of the cake (for more detailed frosting instructions, see Frosting Techniques). Use your hands to pat the coconut all over the top and sides of the cake. Refrigerate the cake for at least 15 minutes before slicing and serving (it will slice more cleanly).

✻ Why It Works

Like many of the best chocolate cake recipes, this recipe starts by drowning cocoa powder in boiling water—a step that brings out its intense chocolaty flavors. You want to make sure that this mixture isn’t too hot when you add it to the batter, or it could melt the butter and possibly break the batter.

★ Pro Tip

To avoid having to wait for the liquid to cool, I stir the cold milk into the cocoa mixture, lowering the temperature, so it is good to go right away.